An NZ Odyssey by Lisa & Keegan

So Lisa and I had spend approximately all of our waking hours together since getting to New Zealand, and most of these being in a van crammed with a bed and all our equipment. These hours, for the most part have been epic... But when rain, illness, and road bumps in logistics get thrown into a trip like this, Lisa and I can get on each others nerves. We decided to take a few days to ourselves, which I used to hike Mountains in the Kaimanawa Forest Park, Just south of Lake Taupo. This involved 65ish km of walking and 2 nights at the Waipakihi Hut.

If this hasn't been made completely clear, tourist hoards can get on my nerves. I recently read an article about a 45 minute "Social Media" queue at the top of some mountain overlooking Wanaka on the South Island of NZ. I understand the view from this mountain is probably epic, but this behavior makes me irrationally angry. Why? Because the mountain next to it is probably offers a better view, and does not have a person on it. I will gladly put in any extra effort to hike that mountain. Anyways, this adventure into the bush is a possible example of this.

With prior engagements in a few days in Taupo, my options for backpacking were Kaimanawa or Tongariro Forest Park, a massive volcanic highland containing 3 volcanos, one of which being Mount Doom from LoR (Ngauruhoe). While Tongariro has lots of epic trekking opportunities, it is somewhat of a tourist trap. Huts and campsites in the park have to be booked well in advance and are expensive. Kaimanawa on the other hand is remote wilderness, with less maintained hiking tracks, and backcountry huts, and is visited by way fewer people. In fact, no one at the tourist information center 10 km from my starting point had ever heard of it, but were at least able to sell me hut tickets (remote huts are first come first serve, all you need to do is prepay). Great joy came from knowing I had a place to stay, and knowing I likely wouldn't be overwhelmed by tourists.

Day 1: 25km, ~1200m gain

Lisa and I hiked up Mt Urchin (1,392 m) a small peak with an awesome view. We cooked up some instant noodles at the top which I argue taste great anywhere and Enjoyed a view under partly cloudy skies. She turned around while I carried on a ridge to Mt Umukarikari (1,591 m). It started snowing about an hour after we parted ways and did not stop until I dropped down the ridge to the hut. So I can't say that it was all that exciting, but not often do you get to do a hike where you gain most of your elevation in the first 3 km, then maintain it along a ridge for 19km. So there's that.

I got the the hut around 6 pm and thought thought I had the hut to myself. I start a fire, and laid claim to the kitchen area with wet cloths and steaming boots and crushed some food and beer. 8:30 pm still raining hard at the hut, still snowing on the ridge, and a young kiwi couple wearing hunting gear roll in. They are cold, wet, miserable, and she is super angry at him. They are happy there is a fire, as did not bring pack covers, so their gear is soaked! I surrender my kitchen and the fire and retreat to bed.

Day 2: 21km, ~1100m Gain

I awaken to quite a sight. First, it's beautiful outside. Clouds roll down the valley giving way to clear skies and an unobstructed view of the snow dusted peaks . But more interestingly the Kiwi couple have pulled mattresses out of the bunk room, and have converted the kitchen/fire area into a sweet cloths drying/ mattress fort, in which they spend the night. Over in Tongariro Forest Park, I imagine tourists who have awoken to early to the sound of snoring and farting in their overcrowded superhuts. No one has made a sweet mattress fort. I imagine they are miserable.

I spend my day hiking in the "Middle Range" and head up an unnamed peak (1660 m), again following the spin of a ridge line for most of the day. This time I can enjoy the views in sunshine and take a ton of pictures. I get lost on my way down and have to bushwack. I get back to the hut and realize I have lost my pack cover, and sunglasses somewhere in the process. I eat dinner and retrace my steps up into the middle range in search of my sunnies and pack cover, although I find neither. When I get back, the kiwi couple have re-stoked the fire; their mattress fort still in tact. That night they tell me what they do for fun, what animals you can shoot, and they teach me how to catch an eel. I may or may not have got to shoot his hunting rifle.

Day 3: 18km, ~800m Gain

The weather on Day 3 is even better then that of day 2, sunshine, no wind. I get up early, breakfast coffee. I pop into the kitchen area to say goodbye to the Kiwi's and once again to mire at their mattress fort. I notice that all they have packed were instant noodles and chips, pretty sweet. The hike out is fast, even with all the breaks to stop and take pictures. It follows much of the same track as that of the first day, t once agian traversing Umukarikari peak above the trees on a really long ridge line, only this time in the sun. I am treated with views of the Kaimanawa Forest, Lake Taupo, Lake Rotoaira, and the 3 Volcano in Tongariro.

Pretty Sweet. Lisa picks me up from the trail head, and I am happy to see her. While it was nice to have a couple days of alone time, I felt like Lisa would have really enjoyed the experience, and I would have most likely enjoyed it more with her. Either way it was still amazing, I saw two people the whole time I was out there. The visitor book at the hut showed that days can go by without an occupant. I had arguably better views of Tongariro then anyone actually in Tongariro, and the nearest tourist center had never heard of the Kaimanawa Forest. No 45 minute " Social Media Queue". New Zealand has hidden gems, you just have to work for them a bit.Meer informatie