TMOLMM

June - July 2018
“The Misadventures of Las Mujeres Miserables”
Thirty years after Maria lived a summer in Spain, and fifteen after Melinda completed her Masters in Madrid, we bring our 12-year-olds on a road trip. We have orthotics and enough NSAIDs to last a month.
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  • Day 7

    Sweating at 10 {PM}

    June 25, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Ian named the blog tonight. There is nothing like siesta in air conditioning and venturing out at 10 pm for the evening activities, only to find the temperature hovering at 99 degrees...we aren’t glistening...rivers are running down us.

    After returning home at 2 am last night and getting to bed at 3, we woke at 7:30am to take on Toledo without tourists and without the heat. Toledo is a day trip for most, and starting at 10 am the huge tour groups arrive. Before 10, it’s magic. The temperature is finally human (the low temp is reached at 7 am in the summer), the streets are silent (minus a local in a hurry in a car), and the light is low so the streets are shadowed.

    We walked, took pictures, had some breakfast, visited a synagogue and the most famous work by El Greco...and the heat rose and the streets were crowded and we had had enough...we were of course on the opposite side of town from our apartment. There was some grumpiness...maybe even some whining...but we made it back for drinks, and then lunch (suggested by locals), and Siesta! Oh, hail, siesta. A two hour nap can cure the worst of anything...but of course it’s 1:30 am now and I’m still awake😂

    This evening we spent sunset at the view overlooking the city, got a bite to eat, and came home to luxuriate in the air conditioning. Tomorrow we will do something similar as today. Sorry, no goose chases or fake restaurants today. Melinda almost killed herself tripping over a chain tonight near the plaza...a reminder that the border between hilarity and tragedy is a very fine line. Luckily, we are hopefully still tiptoeing on the former.
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  • Day 8

    The 8th Day: In which...

    June 26, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Melinda falls out of a convent. Maria is no theological scholar and nowhere near a mystic, but if you fall out of a convent, Maria thinks someone, somewhere is sending you a sign. We visited the cathedral first thing in the morning (It is enormous. It took hours to tour), and then we stopped at the convent to purchase sweets. We even waited to purchase the sweets from the nuns instead of buying them in the confectionary the day prior. You ring a doorbell, wait for a nun to buzz you in, ask her for some marzipan, and she hands it to you through the bars of the cloister. As we were leaving, Maria doesn’t know what happened but she “almost” fell down the steps. Just as she let out a sigh of relief for saving herself, she heard a thunk, looked over to see Melinda’s legs above her head, and Maria’s broken fan in Ian’s hands. Apparently, Maria’s fan partially, and insufficiently, broke Melinda’s fall.

    We got limpy to lunch and then siesta. After siesta we did some shopping for Toledo gold, and then found a cold bar for a cold drink in the 100 degree heat. Melinda spilled half her beer onto the table. Let’s just say: Toledo-2, Melinda-0. Melinda had the same nail biting day as España in the World Cup. Luckily, both Survived to compete another day.

    Tomorrow we are off to Trujillo. Still hot but will be a nice reprieve from tourists. Toledo has been lovely, but it’s crowded and we are all a little tired. Let’s all say a little prayer that the Audi is still safe in the municipal parking garage...
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  • Day 10

    Never get cocky when driving in castles

    June 28, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Ian has noted today, “You are cussing a lot on this trip, Mom.” Well, Ian, dear, you drive a standard transmission Audi into a $&”@?!$& 9th century castle, and see how the bad words start flowing.

    Our traveling days have been the most humorous...well, until today. Maria was working on the blog from yesterday, but tonight she just ran. into. a. castle, so yesterday’s travel stories are dead to her.

    Maria was going to tell you how we left Toledo for Trujillo (in honor of her former neighbors, the Trujillos, and because Melinda fell in love with Trujillo last year.) Maria was going to tell you about driving into this tiny town with its tiny sidewalk-streets and how we just had to go “right and then right” to the hotel parking...the parking that was right INSIDE the 9th century castle...”This. can’t. be. right?” Sang the chorus of Maria and Melinda as they drove up the hill.

    We did great. No problemo. (Well, except we called the front desk for the WHEELCHAIR elevator not realizing it would take us down 10 steps we were perfectly capable of taking.) And then we had to drive into the castle AGAIN today because Melinda had the dumb idea of a day trip🙄...Maria worried about how we would get out of the castle, but when that was no problemo, Maria got cocky. After a day at the cheese museum (stay tuned) and a visit to Cáceres (our least favorite town thus far), we drove up...went right and then not quite right fast enough...and Maria thought, “Gee. I don’t remember it being this narrow.” Jesus must have been all 😳, but thank goodness for early morning candle lighting...we made it. It was the wrong road and it was 0.2 mm wider than an Audi.

    I mean, yes, in the end Melinda had to walk to Audi down the hill like a puppy...past some Spanish pedestrians (“Um, ladies...do you see my wing mirrors pushed in...maybe wait???” But noooo... Now we know the real reason Spaniards are thin...to be able to walk in the street😂) and past a guy sitting and smoking and talking on the phone in his doorjamb who TURNED his legs inward (like you do for a latecomer at the movies) and did not get OUT OF the way of the Audi as Maria drove past. (Some old ladies even saw Maria stall the car and did not run for cover but kept walking right by us up to the castle.) Spaniards: they aren’t chickens.

    But then...the parking lot was almost full and after pulling perfectly into the. last. parking space, Maria did it. She ran into the castle wall ...oh ever so gently🤦‍♀️ I’m sorry, Costco Visa, she knows not what she did. But really...isn’t it Costco’s fault?!?! With their big parking lots and their wide lanes...Americans are ruined for Europe.

    So, we are inTrujillo...a wonderful little town with more than a dozen towers. On these towers are currently resting migratory Storks from Africa. Ian is in bird nerd heaven. We drove here via Talavera de la Reina where we bought a few painted ceramics, saw some ancient Roman ruins, and were given a bottle of wine for lunch.

    More about the cheese museum tomorrow. Need to get to bed by 2am so I can make the walking tour of Trujillo tomorrow!
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  • Day 11

    "Light más candles, Mujeres."

    June 29, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    It all started with a cheese museum. Melinda found it last year and didn’t go, so it was her goal for this year. We had arrived in Trujillo and had a lazy first morning. This means we ran into the “siesta problem” where everything is closed when you are finally ready to see things. We figured by driving to Casar de Cáceres, we would arrive after the museum reopened. As usual, we left later than planned. Also usual, we got lost in the sidewalk-street driving and were even later. Get to the museum just before 5...and it’s closed. (We thought it was supposed to open at 4.) At 5:01 a frustrated woman arrives to reopen the museum (thinking, “lame, early Germans!”) and we enter. She seems gruff, uninterested, and annoyed by us. You know, typical European museum staff. But we were so wrong. By the time we finished touring the museum, she was explaining things and smiling and she even gave the kids little sheep keychain souvenirs.

    Casar makes a very strong, pungent, soft cheese “tort”. Casar was a stopping point along the shepherding route from southern to northern Spain. The town began to make a hard sheep cheese, but when it failed, it made a soft cheese that spoiled quickly without refrigeration. Of course with time, the “failure” became a delicacy and now “Torta de Casar” is a sought after cheese exported worldwide.

    We left Casar after the museum and stopped in the county seat of Cáceres. Unimpressed by the honking local drivers and the Atlantic City feel...we returned to Trujillo. But not before the tire warning light came on in the car🤦‍♀️ THAT is not the fun story for today. Blah, blah, blah, but after a nice Spanish gas station attendant checked our tires a million times...I think they were all overinflated and the sensor is set wrong.

    The good story comes AFTER the tires. You may think it was Maria hitting the castle wall, but NO! That was the previous story! Pay attention! 😂

    THIS is the story...

    The following morning we went on a walking tour of Trujillo which ended at the castle (ie...our car park;)) I thought we should check the tires to confirm the sensor was not showing a real problem after all. We checked the tires, photographed the ding in the bumper from the castle wall, and parked the car in a better position. We left. We napped, we swam, we went out for drinks and tapas, we slept for the night, we repacked, we checked out from the hotel the this morning, and:
    Melinda: “You have the keys. You never gave them back to me after we moved the car.”
    Maria: “😳. I don’t have the keys.”

    Maria is not sure how to introduce this...or begin the story...or...but in the end, Maria made Ian go check the car, and... he found the key, on the front seat of our Audi A4 (for which we purchased no extra insurance)...and...needless to say...the car was unlocked. Maria doesn’t know if that is the funny part, or the fact that Ian then took the keys and LOCKED the car. Because, I mean, you got away with 24 hours unlocked with the keys on the front seat, but... Ian takes no chances😂

    So, pretty much, that ONE candle I lit for hopeless causes? Got. my. money’s. worth.🙌
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  • Day 11

    Wrong turn at Alburquerque...

    June 29, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    When Maria was 8, she was so proud of herself because she could finally spell “Albuquerque”...and then her family moved. She felt wronged because all of that work was for nothing. Now 30+ years later, she learned that it really could have been worse...she could have had to learn to spell it with an extra R.

    Maria made the whole group go to Alburquerque, Spain in the Badajoz region of the Extremadura. She was born in Albuquerque, New Mexico which is named for the Duke of Alburquerque...but spelled incorrectly. Many theories abound, but likely...the Portuguese spelling was adopted because who the heck can pronounce Alburquerque?!?

    In summary, people from Albuquerque, NM are likely the only tourists Alburquerque, Spain ever sees. It’s not an ugly place. It has a lovely castle that apparently is renovated but rarely opens. Sometimes apparently an old man will let you into the cathedral if he happens to be sitting outside it, but not this day. And when the tourist office opened, we were directed to ancient cave paintings which clearly, by the grass covered boardwalk and the derelict sign, hadn’t been visited in decades. We saw no drawings at all. The best part is that the pamphlet shows these great ancient drawings and the tourist office lady pretends that she’s seen them in her adult life...all of this to get two miserable mujeres to hike up a big hill. At least the people of Alburquerque were very friendly and kind...those who showed their faces to us.

    There was a bookstore that was supposed to open after siesta and never did. Poor Mirabel of Libreria Mirabel will never know the quantity of Alburquerque souvenirs she could have moved had she opened that fateful Friday afternoon!😂

    Next up: A day in Portugal.
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  • Day 13

    Evora

    July 1, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Last year the Gairs and Alice tried to visit as many UNESCO sites in Portugal as possible, and we missed Evora. The Heiners visited its Spanish counterpart, Mérida, and were amazed. Maria and Melinda decided to detour quickly into Portugal for a few days to visit Evora. The city and the streets are picturesque, from Roman times, and TINY! On the way in Maria had to turn around in a parking lot the size of a Costco pizza (and on a slope, of course), and on the way out, a Portuguese man randomly crossing in front of Maria had stop to guide her out. The street was ok, until one tiny little keyhole no wider than the car. Forget the Bible parable about the camel and the needle...try threading an Audi through a Portuguese street!

    Evora is enchanting. It has whitewashed houses. Roman temples. Churches with towers. A chapel made of bones (*highlight!*). An aqueduct. And just out of town...some ancient standing stones. We took the map, walked the town, and checked off the list...ending the day with an amazing meal for which we were squeezed into the restaurant at the end of the evening.

    Maria’s mom would be so jealous that the bougainvilleas grow like weeds there and the town is decorated with purple, flowering trees. Obrigada, Evora. We must return soon.
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  • Day 13

    Obrigada!

    July 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Well, we dropped the kids at Spanish science camp...our work here is done. After getting them settled in a Jesuit boarding school where they will spend the next two weeks, Melinda and Maria drove north from Spain, through Portugal, and popping out on top in Spain again.

    We only stopped to pay tolls. The last automated toll booth we went through FIVE credit cards (all unable to read) before having to resort to the last of our cash. After taking a full ten minutes at the booth and making someone wait behind, the automated voice chirped out, “Obrigada!!!” (Thank you!!!) before finally letting us through.

    Portugal has the worst drivers. They tailgate, pass with no room for error, and cut back in too close for comfort. Surprisingly, we only saw the remains of three accidents. These people are seriously nuts. But we made it. 6+ hours with no pit stops. We were armed with junk food and the will to get to our destination in one piece.

    We drove through the area of the fires from last year. I had read that many of the dozens who died were returning from vacations in Spain. I can see how that happened, and it’s horrifying to see the destruction. Ironically, I’m listening to the rain fall now. We are in the north where it often rains, but unlike last year, this year the rain is all the way south. The burn scar is already green.

    We are now in A Guarda. Melinda was proud that she reserved a garage space at the hotel. 1) a parking garage in Spain is always bad news and 2) of course it’s two blocks away, so it didn’t protect us from the rain!😂

    Melinda had the directions. Her Spanish is fabulous and she even had a drawing. However she missed “there are two garage doors” (ok, she heard that but didn’t fully understand it until too late.) We drive in the door and don’t go up because it was “street level”...so Maria turns the corner and Melinda has to help by getting out and guiding. After getting around the first corner, there is another...and it’s going down😳 A man tries to yell for us, but he’s too late. He simply sighs and says, “She will have to turn around. It’s easier to go up, but she must stay as far right as possible.”

    Maria may have cried a little. She may have wanted to walk away...or just die. The only reason she made it down is that the garage wall has been chipped away to give a few inches more room. She didn’t know how she could get out. Is there a Coast guard-like service for parking garages?!?! Maria turned the car around and edged up the ramp. It was so steep and so tight that she had to hold the clutch for far too long and far too often. There was no wiggle room. No letting the clutch out and rolling at. All. There was no going forward too fast. An inch a minute was too fast. Maria might smell like burning clutch for the rest of the trip😂

    I don’t know how we did it, but the Audi is out of the basement with not a scratch (yet...someone still can hit it tonight while it’s “safely” parked.) Maybe it helps that we are staying at a converted convent and Mary is right outside our door😂 You might get photos later, if we can face photographing the space. We are in shock right now. It’s 2:38 am. Maria’s personal best. She’s going to sleep and pray there are no parking garage Dreams! (Maybe she’ll dream of Costco and its enormous parking spaces😂)

    And...by the way...we don’t know from where that man came or to where he went. Patron Saint of parking maybe?!?!
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