• Mary and Simon

Walking the Camino

Follow our adventures Okumaya devam et
  • Day 26 - Aubrac to St Come d’Olt

    17–18 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We walked into Aubrac and spotted a swankey Brasserie so booked a meal for later. We then checked into our accommodation ‘La Dômerie’ a Chambre de hotes of very high quality. Wonderful to have sheets provided and not to have to use our sleeping pods. The hotel was a wonderful old building that had been kept in a traditional manner.
    We went for our meal which again was in a room of fantastic character with all kinds of quirky furniture, ornaments and art. It had a wood burning stove in the middle which was delightful as we arrived but soon made us very warm indeed.
    After a good sleep went down for a lovely breakfast in the charming dining room - a great selection including fruit salad, fresh croissants, cheese and ham. We left feeling buoyant and ready for a day on the road. A good job too as we had 24 km to get through.
    It was a tough slog as at least 15 of the km were a steep descent over gullies filled with rocks that really hammer your feet.
    We went through the medieval village of Chely d’Aubrac and stopped for coffee. Our lunch stop was in the hamlet of Lestrades where the locals had put hot drinks in a barn in a help yourself basis.
    The rain, thunder and lightning started as we approached our accommodation for the night - the Convent de Malet - where we were welcomed by 2 of the sisters. The convent is a big, old roomy building with a great wooden staircase and well oiled policies and philosophies. It can accommodate up to 60 pilgrims a night.
    After putting bags into room and freshening up we hobbled into town while we had the energy. Sadly most places were shut til 7 except the bakery and local snack bar. We dined on paninis and offered to buy one for another pilgrim travelling with his dog. This turned out to be Roman, a 29 year old Czech Republic guy who said he sometimes walks up to 40 km a day😳 and lives outdoors relying on the kindness of The Way.
    Had a good hour or so with him listening to his tales and philosophies, he had very gentle, spiritual eyes - probably a psycho 😆 - only joking. We sent him on his way with some provisions from the bakery and €10 - he was very happy and we had hugs all around before heading back to our convent for showers and chilling before bed in prep for 20 km tomorrow.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 27 - St Come d’Olt to Estaing

    18–19 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    After a good sleep in the convent and the expected petit dejeuner of yogurt, bread, jam and coffee we said goodbye to the Sisters and set off in the rain 🙁. Another long one - nearly 22 km.
    we had a lot of uphill climbs and met Cliff who was initially irritating with his advice, but we got chatting further and he was actually pleasant enough. Simon had a sadness as he lost his jolly Isle of Man tt beanie. We had to replace it in Espalian - a town we passed through as he couldn’t risk a chill on a cool morning.
    We then found the omelette cat woman who fed us lunch with coffee.
    We set off bravely again and met the cake woman on the hill who demanded we try her wares. We agreed to a piece of banana cake and gave a donation. She was overwhelmed with this and insisted we had orange cake too! We were sent on our way up the hill with many pilgrim blessings from her.
    Obviously she knew about the mountain we were about to climb and the carbs and sugar rush from her cakes would help us ever upwards!
    We were then subjected to a ferocious pummelling in the rain, where the gullies became entrenched in mud.
    We went slip sliding away trying our best not to end up on our backsides. Simon had to fight bushes to help us bypass huge lakes that had formed on the path. 7 hours later we made it into Estaing, across the pretty bridge into the town. We were filthy, smelly but happy to have made it to sit and have a beer and reflect.
    We have made it to our apartment for the evening- following yet another French phone call 📞
    We have charming views over the medieval church and are off now to find some food 🥰
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 28 - Estaing to Golinhac

    19–20 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today started off with a panic as Simon had lost his new hat!! We had to return to last night’s restaurant where we spotted it under the table. Mary had to then employ her French phone technique again to alert the owner of our dilemma and create a rescue scene! We had success 🙌 and now Simon has pinned it to his head!!
    Our walk today was shorter than of late and started with a 4 km stretch alongside the River Lot. Then it revealed its teeth and the next 6km at least were the walk up the endless, very steep hill.
    We then went through wooded glades and gullies on our route to Golihac.
    We also passed the drone of thousands of bees on several occasions which caused us to quicken our step.
    As we approached the village the ominous sounds of thunder - followed by darkening, brooding skies and yes 15 mins before our arrival the rain once again tumbled from the sky.
    We went walk about looking for campsite, arrived - reception was closed so started to set up camp under an awning when reception kindly opened early and got us into our chalet 👏
    Laundry done, now drying, we tried to find an earlier supper but no 🙄 we have to wait til 7 to eat. Then as early as possible to bed as we are feeling jaded!!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 29 - Golinac to Conques

    19–21 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The meal last night at the campsite was a worry as we had ordered a burger- they asked how we wanted it cooked??!! I said well done and Simon said medium… this meant that Simon’s burger came back only half cooked 😩 however he was so hungry by this point he ate half of it but it tasted more and more like pet food, so he stopped eating it and felt quite angry 😡 who eats raw burgers other than the french?
    Thankfully he survived the night!.
    The morning bought fog and rain. So we set off on our long walk to Conques all poncho’d up against the weather. We passed through the towns of Esperyac and Senergues. It was tough going, especially the descent into Conques- warning Helen and Andy, a tough ascent out again.
    Conques is a very old hobbledy hoy medieval village. When we got into our ancient house we found Hansel and Gretel 😂 Simon’s sense of humour! It all looks like it’s out of a fairy tale. As usual we were starving and have discovered that cafe/snack bars do a dish called ‘galettes’ which is the French version of a Staffordshire oatcake with savoury fillings 🙌 so we haven’t had to wait until 7 to eat.
    We decided to utilise the washing machine offered by the apartment and unfortunately put on a 3 hour cycle - lack of understanding french instructions 🙄 so have been kept up waiting for this to finish.
    We await the arrival of my sister Helen and her husband Andy who join us tomorrow for a few days on the trail 👣👣🙌🙌 so a rest day for us tomorrow! 👏
    We have now walked more than 400 km!! 👣👣💪
    P.S. Simon just gone to check on the washing and the clothes have all dissolved- that is the end of the walk 🤪
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 30/31 - Conques to Decazeville

    21–22 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Yesterday we were up early to meet Helen and Andy off the morning bus from Rodez. The weather was mixed with intermittent heavy showers and sunshine. We visited the local bakery so we could all eat at lunchtime. The only grocery store was on the local campsite so we trotted through the cobblestone streets to get the necessities- toilet rolls and bananas 😂.
    After lunch we visited the Abbey at the centre of the town. Then got chased back to our medieval house by yet another downpour.
    After a chilled afternoon resting we hit the bar before having a lovely meal in the terrace bar.
    We were up early as we had a 19km walk to Decazville an old industrial mining town.
    Helen and Andy were inducted into the world of Camino walking through a very tough uphill 2km climb out of Conques.
    The weather has been dry all day 🙌🙌
    We passed through the forest of sweet chestnut trees then into a very British landscape of meadows.
    We stopped in Noilhac for a delightful orange presse and coffee mid morning.
    Lunch was enjoyed in a field and we finished off all the delights we had brought in the bakery yesterday.
    19km later we hit Decazeville and discovered an organic microbrewery so had our well done drink here.
    We then walked up the hill to today’s accommodation which is run by an ageing hippy. He has 2 rooms and we are to share with another pilgrim- so we have split into gender based rooms- as this will be easier to manage. We sit on the terrace having showered and relaxed.
    We await to see what’s for dinner - and who our fellow pilgrim will be …
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 32 - Decazeville to Montredon

    23–24 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our fellow pilgrim turned up just before dinner - she was Noamy - I think French version of Naomi - probably spelled incorrectly too 🤔
    Evening meal that our ageing hippy Jean-Marie provided was tasty but challenging with our lack of French and others lack of English 🥴
    Simon escaped as soon as he could 😆
    We retired to our gendered bedrooms for a fairly restless night.
    Breakfast at 8 as planned then a relaxed start to the day as only an 11 km stroll ahead of us.
    We set off in sunshine and hit Livinhac en Haut an hour or so later. We had a couple of hours to kill so did some shopping had a very nice lunch and bumped into the Aussie crowd from 2 weeks ago.
    We were debating leaving when the heavens opened so we scuttled back under the shelter and met the chatty Jonathon a pilgrim from South west France but originally from Wiltshire who was travelling our route having started like us in Cluny. However at 35+km a day at a much quicker pace 😳👣👣👣. He collected a picture of us all for his blog.
    As the rain subsided we hit the path once more and walked through much mud, fields and country roads to Montredon. An area of outstanding natural beauty.
    We are stopping at Frank’s place which is so welcoming. We have a pool that Helen and Andy took advantage of for 2 mins before the rain came hurling down again.
    We have all had a lovely evening with good food, music and friendly company.
    Off to bed now as 20km beckons tomorrow!!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 33 - Montredon to Figeac

    24–25 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After a lovely night with Frank in Montredon we were up in good time for a spectacular breakfast of cereal, homemade yoghurt and jam, homegrown strawberries and especially for Simon boiled eggs 🙌 a fab start to the day.
    As we sat on the loo with the view the early morning mist was slowly burned away to reveal a dry and sunny day.
    We set off on our 19km saunter. We passed through more fields of barley and wheat as well as cute French hamlets that sadly failed to provide a loo so the wild wee was needed on a number of occasions 😳
    We were enticed in by exiting adverts of ‘Chez Thierry’ promising omelettes and coffee. However after 11 km of walking we discovered this delight was
    ‘Fermé pour cause de maladie’
    😭. So needed to replan and find a shaded embankment for lunch. Thank goodness we’d had the foresight to order sandwiches from Frank that morning 🙌
    So onwards and forwards to Figeac our destination for the evening. The rain from yesterday meant we passed through many muddy sections 👣👣 this left our shoes looking like dug up remnants from an archaeological dig!
    We reached our destination with plenty of time to spare before check in so there was one main option- coffee and ice cream 🍨 😋
    Up the hill then to our accommodation for the evening a budget hotel full of pilgrims!
    Figeac is a town full of character with a cosmopolitan buzz. A mix of old and new that keeps on swinging…
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 34 - Figeac to Grealou

    25–26 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After a wander around Figeac soaking up the atmosphere we decided to eat at our hotel - a good decision as they did a lovely meal at a great price 😋👍
    An odd night in our hotel with people wandering up and down the corridors to the shared toilets 🙄
    Up early for another great breakfast then time to say goodbye to Helen and Andy as we set off and they stayed another day in Figeac before flying home tomorrow. It has been so lovely sharing this experience with Helen and Andy. We will miss them 💕
    So we set off on a warm, sunny day. The sat nav on my phone was sending us a strange way to link up with today’s walk. We then met an English woman who gave us directions. We still managed to miss a turn and started following the wrong markers taking us to the wrong place. This meant we completed 5000 steps without leaving Figeac 🤦🏻‍♀️ not great when we had practically 20 km to walk!!
    Finally on the right route we headed out of Figeac up the hill.
    Got the heart bumping and a pumping. Very hot and sweaty. We hit the village of Faycelles and the cafe ‘petit pause’ provided us with nourishment to power us on.
    We took a deviation through wild woods and groves full of wild flowers and the air was filled with the hum of insects. These ranged from bees, hover flies, butterflies, cicadas and a couple of asiatic hornets.
    We limped into our destination exhausted and on our last dregs of water - time to start carrying more.
    We are staying in a little hippy hobbledy hoy gite and are bracing ourselves for a lentil supper 😳
    We have navigated the shower scene with postage stamp towels. We are resting and hoping for a good sleep following 7.00 supper.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 35 - Grealou to Cajarc

    26–27 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Dinner at Esther’s was actually very nice, Lentil soup, salad and lentils and galette ( made in the frying pan with onions, potatoes, cheese and a fried egg on the top - followed by an apple compote with crème fraishe. Daniel was the other pilgrim staying, we ended up having a great conversation about the state of the world with Esther translating as Daniel spoke no English. A calm and quiet night as in a very rural area.
    House to ourselves this morning as Esther was at her house and Daniel up and off as doing 30+km today - made our 16+km seem a little tame 😂
    However we have now walked 500km 🙌🙌👣👣👣
    We set off very calmly for the 10 km walk to Cajarc where we stopped for lunch. Similar vistas to yesterday but we met our first pig, and some very noisy frogs looking for a mate!!
    The local cycling group seemed to be running an event along the track we were walking on so for an hour or so we played dodge the bike and said hundreds of ‘bonjours’
    Lovely lunch in Cajarc then we set off for final 6 km to our bed for the night. We walked down to the river Lot and came across a crop of riverside restaurants. Esther our hostess from last night was sat having lunch with her dog and was very pleased to see us so we joined her for a coffee and whiled away another hour.
    We have now got to today’s destination- the house of the malicious cats 🐈 and it is indeed full of cats 😆
    It is spacious and airy and we hope for a good nights sleep 🤞
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 36 - Cajarc to Limogne-en-Quercy

    27–28 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We snacked on saved bread and a tin of posh pate we found in the only store open on a Sunday. We chilled in the garden with this snack and one of the many mischievous cats. Simon experimented with the hammock. Quite a restless night due to ‘church’ feet. (Restless feet!)
    Met a nice couple from Estonia and Holland but who actually live in Germany. Chatted over le petit dejeuner.
    Set off for Limogne-en-Quercy - a fairly short 15k distance. Once again we bumped into Cliff - a fellow pilgrim - we regularly have seen over last fortnight. We did whole walk non stop despite rain ☔️ once again half way through.
    We found the only cafe in Limogne that was open - yes it’s Monday!- and it was heaving. Decided to have lunch here rather than waiting to 7 to eat - very reasonable €14.90 for 3 courses👍
    We saw a chap we had noticed on several occasions at other locations who is walking the pilgrim route, quite young, but always seems out of it. Today while we had lunch he was downing the beers, went to get up and knocked his table full of beers flying, he must of fallen on the glass as the next thing we know is the ambulance arrived to sort him out 😕
    We finished our lunch and made a trip to the local launderette which was conveniently in the supermarket car park so we got washing and shopping done in one fell swoop 🙌
    Staying once more in a mobile home on a campsite. Cheese, crackers, fruit and wine for supper!!
    All is peaceful as we unwind for the night 😴
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 37 - Limogne en Quercy to Vaylats

    28–29 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    A reasonable night in the caravan - slept in to 8!!
    Enjoyed our petit dejeuner, packed up and headed into town to send some unneeded vetements back to Blighty. Emily be warned!
    Nearly headed off in the wrong direction 😳 but realised before too many wasted steps.
    It was a hot and sunny day so we both donned our shorts for the first time on this walk 🦵 a shock to the world!!
    A pleasant walk today through fields and woods - Simon spotted a deer.
    We stopped in the town of Vairers for a welcome lemonade and once again set off in the wrong direction as some helpful French guy pointed that this was the way 🤦🏻‍♀️
    It was only when I saw our distance to destination had increased from 7.9 to nearly 12 we realised and had to double back - much to Simon’s annoyance.
    We heard and saw our noisy frogs again.
    We passed fields full of oxeye daisies that were lovely.
    We arrived at our destination for the night - another convent! And have been put up in a very nice room that overlooks a moat - that is full of - you guessed it - noisy frogs 🐸 I’ve recorded the sound and will see if it uploads.
    Supper was a task - stewed beans with marinaded pork - rather salty - needed many glasses of water to get it down! The Plodicus already had an iffy stomach 🥴
    Let’s see what the night brings- and we have a much longer walk tomorrow!!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 38 - Vaylats to Cahors

    29–30 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A mixed night in the convent as we both struggled to get to sleep. Up at 7 for breakfast as a long walk ahead. Frogs remained vocal through the night and into this morning 🐸😂
    Today was cooler and a little breezy which was appreciated for a longer walk.
    We were on the road soon after 8.15am as over 25km to get through.
    The path was pretty kind and flat for most of the day with similar landscapes to recent days - fields and woodlands. We stopped after 10 km for the loo that was engaged and out stepped Mallory a young lady from Brussels we keep bumping into since our initial meeting with Helen and Andy in Montredon.
    Our next encounter was with ‘Billy Connolly’ aka Leo from Donegal who walked with us a lot today and is planning his 6th walk to Santiago at the age of 73 🙌🤗
    We had a slight fall out over a ‘coffee stop’ at 7km to go. Nearly everyone from the last couple of days had stopped- much to Simon’s horror. Mary desperate for the loo headed that way - it was occupe- so went around the corner to meet an older lady disrobed and doing the drip dry waggle!! She was apologetic but admitted to enjoying ‘peeing’ on the grass!! Takes all sorts. She then came to apologise and shake my hand - wasn’t so sure about this 😆
    The descent into Cahors wasn’t fun at the end of a long walk.
    We hit a bar for a celebration beer then found our lovely apartment for the evening.
    Tomorrow is a kind of rest day as we train hop to the next location to ensure our completion within the brexit 90 days 🙄!!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 39 - Cahors to Moissac

    29–30 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After a lovely night in our medieval apartment in Cahors we had a hunt for a bakery that served breakfast. The Plodicus led the charge through the morning drizzle. After a few false starts we hit gold with the great smells of coffee and fresh pastries. As we tucked into these delights our friendly Dutch/Estonian couple spotted us and joined us for breakfast. They had finished their walk and were returning home tomorrow.
    As we returned to the apartment to collect our rucksacks and head for the station. Today was a rest day from walking but we were hopping along our route to Moissac - a time saving device to ensure we finish our pilgrimage in the brexit defined 90 days!!
    Simon has named our sat nav Trevor and he did a sterling job getting us to Gare du Cahors.
    So we had 2 short train journeys before arriving into the ancient town of Moissac.
    Simon became exasperated when an Austrian/German woman latched onto us. He is now feeling a little uncharitable about this! Why and how - he says- do these people appear out of the ether?
    After marching twice around the town we settled on a small pizza place for lunch. The sun was in and out the clouds throughout the afternoon.
    We then headed for the Abbey which has many links with the Abbey in Cluny - our starting point. It also reminded us on a smaller scale of the Djomo in Florence. We were accompanied by a large tourist group of Spanish people. We lit 2 candles for you all so feel the blessings coming your way.
    We headed for tonight’s accommodation at 3.30 to be greeted by our hostess Veronique. A former teacher turned guest house owner. She has an amazing house with a beautiful garden - and I think we are the only guests tonight. She has recommended a trip to the canal quarter of the town this evening. We shall see …
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 40 - Moissac to Condom

    30–31 May 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    A quiet night in Moissac - highlights were finding our first G&Ts since leaving the uk. Other big highlight was meeting up with fellow Canadian pilgrim Gazi. We met up with him a few times pre Conques when he traveled with his daughter, she had then gone forward to Paris and he was continuing alone to St Jean pied de Port. We thought he was ahead but due to our train hop yesterday we caught up and were able to say a proper goodbye 💕
    Today was a second rest day as we travelled via train and bus to Condom. We had an interesting stop in the town of Agen. Which has an interesting history as a trading centre from pre Roman times being a mid way point between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. Apparently there are 2 amazing Roman amphitheaters buried under modern buildings!!
    The bus brought us to the pilgrim town of Condom. With its mix of medieval and rural.
    Staying in an old building by the local canal.
    Spot the people 🤣 plodicus is happy, France is deserted 😘🥸
    Walking again tomorrow 👣👣
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 41 - Condom to Montreal du Gers

    1–2 Haz 2024, Fransa ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    So as we start June we enter our last week in France. Up for our 7.30 petit dejeuner with Sandrine our host, then bags packed and on the road again. It was a lovely morning as we left Condom, we saw a huge wasp about 4 feet long 😳
    Perfect weather for walking with blue skies and a good breeze. The river accompanied us initially then we turned off through farmers fields with a variety of crops. Ripening barley, wheat, peas, sunflowers, vines and other plants that were too small to identify yet.
    We met Sue and Karen from the south of England- our first English pilgrims. Simon leapt on and Mary dallied to chat 😂.
    Lunch was had on a sunny grass verge when the hunger pangs crept in and the ants 🐜 joined us.
    Arrived in Montreal a little early for check in so carried on the additional km to the town centre - which of course was all shut!!
    A strange, parochial little place, not the friendliest of places, all a little surreal.
    We are staying in a French pontins style chalet so got some washing done before creeping back to the town centre, shaking with hunger. As the grocery store had reopened and it had reasonable stock we decided to go back and have a fry up rather than deal with the intricacies of securing a table in a cliquey, slightly creepy village.
    Time for an early night as we have a longer walk tomorrow.
    We will meet up with our friends Colin and Jane who are in the exciting position of securing a lovely property in the Bordeaux region. So we will enjoy catching up and hearing all about it.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 42 - Montreal de Gers to Eauze

    2–3 Haz 2024, Fransa ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We breakfasted in our chalet then departed Montreal de Gers through its walled archway. A longer walk today in lovely walking weather, some sunshine. Initially through many farmers fields then into vineyard land. Trevor decided to send us round and round a vine field. The Plodicus wandered off through the grapevines to try and discover the way out. Mary met a man who indicated the right direction but the Plodicus was lost in the vines. After much calling ‘Mary, where are you? We were reunited and rejoined the route 😂
    Lunch was had on a very thin, high metal bench…
    Unfortunately the last 7 km into Eauze were fairly nondescript as we followed a cycle path all the way. However we surpassed the 600km today 👏👍
    We arrived in Eauze in time to grab a coffee but that was all it was Sunday all else was closed.
    We headed up to our accommodation. ‘Chez Nadine’ and met the Rugby mad Francis - a keen Toulouse supporter and awaited the arrival of Colin and Jane.
    They arrived about 4 and we settled them into their room where upon Jane discovered a humongous asiatic hornet crawling around in her duvet 😱. Everyone was intrigued with this then Nadine our host came and whacked it with a spatula and dispatched it out of the window.
    Everyone clapped, had a huge sigh of relief then went to the garden to drink tea.
    We shared a lovely evening with Colin and Jane catching up on all their news and hearing all about their fab new house that they have just had their offer accepted on 🙌🙌
    After a few aperitifs in the square we had a lovely meal at La Vie Rose restaurant.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 43 - Eauze to Nogaro

    3–4 Haz 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The French people staying at our Gite were up at 6 clattering in the kitchen, making coffee and sawing the bread. They don’t hold back on their chitter chatter, Colin and Jane a little bemused by this early alarm call.
    We were up and about after 7 giving the French an hour to use the kitchen! However as we got started on our breakfast preparations we were invaded by a second wave of French pilgrims who were staying in additional accommodation across the garden. So was quite a busy kitchen! Colin wandered around in his dressing gown mumbling ‘crikey’!
    We did eventually get to the coffee pot and bread 😂
    So at 8.30 we bade farewell to Colin and Jane who were heading south towards Nice and the cote d’azure.
    We set off on a 21km march to Nogaro.
    It was a warm day with many sunny moments. Mostly a pleasant walk but we did meet boggy muddy sections where we had to hang onto trees to try and keep our feet dry!!
    Again lots of vineyards and rolling meadows, with clusters of woodland.
    Made it to Nogaro and celebrated with coffee and ice cream.
    A beautiful house, with lovely back garden and swimming pool. We are only renting a bedroom though!
    Have put all laundry on the line and Simon is praying it dries as he hates the idea of smelling like an old goat as a result of damp clothes- he really dislikes this smell!!!
    We will head back into town for food then attempt an early night - subject to washing being dry of course 🤞
    They have a lot of ‘3 legs’ memorabilia around - not sure what that’s all about??!!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 44 - Nogaro to Saint Palais

    3–4 Haz 2024, Fransa ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After a peaceful night at Christine’s lovely house in Nogaro we were up early for a crazy day of travelling.
    We left to the wonderful scent of a jasmine hedge, then headed for the first bus stop.
    Half an hour later we are in the market town of Aire sur l’amour. A bustling little place with a good range of shops. It was hot today so after a wander around we sat in the park for a bit as we had 3 hours to kill before the next bus!!
    We ate in a busy sports cafe - just beating the 12.00 hordes that poured in.
    Then the bus to Pau - a fairly large French city which has an interesting ‘funincular’ a kind of cable car that took you up the steep hill from the station to the city. The front was quite grand and had an art deco type look. Simon imagined Poirrot tottering out of one of the buildings to solve a case!
    We went on a quest for a supermarket to get a few provisions in for this evening as we were going to be late arriving in our accommodation.
    Next step was a train from Pau to Orthez. Sadly we hit rush hour so was a Ghandi type scene on the platform 😳 not fun in the heat and with rucksacks!!
    Final leg was a bus to Saint Palais our final night in France. The bus journey took us through a number of towns. We felt these definitely reminded us of Greek towns, feeling more southern now.
    We spotted the Pyrénées mountains for the first time and attempted a photo from the bus - wasn’t great.
    So we rest up in prep for a bus journey to Hendaye tomorrow then we walk into Spain 🇪🇸.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 45 - France to Spain (Irun)

    5–6 Haz 2024, Fransa ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We awoke in our bijoux apartment to a beautiful sunrise. Up and off with a stop at the bakery and fed the sparrows with our croissant flakes.
    Off to the bus stop to get the number 11 to Bayonne.
    French buses are so cheap €1.30 for a 1 hour 20 min journey- amazing.
    Bayonne looked like a thriving, dynamic metropolis but we had no time to explore as another bus to catch.
    Second bus went through the outskirts of Biarritz and another coastal town called St Jean de Luz.
    As we went through Hendaye - the town we were headed for we were looking for the stop ‘Ville’ that never appeared and suddenly we were at le grande plage- the other side of town. Simon decided we needed to head back into town so Mary missed out on a lunch by the sea!
    This caused a certain amount of bickering- as you can imagine!! Also we then lost our way back into town and ended up having lunch opposite the very unromantic train station!!!
    We calmed down - left France and walked into Spain 🇪🇸
    So we are in a pension in Irun, have showered and are now laundering our clothes 🙌
    We look forward to our first Spanish meal and beer before an early night.
    Tomorrow we commence the Camino del Norte 👣👣👣
    Simon hopes that Trevor behaves!!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 46 - Irun to Errenteria

    6–7 Haz 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After a fairly noisy night in our Irun city centre pension, we darted in and out of the toilet we were sharing with other residents! Unfortunately all the madness of the last few days had taken its toll on Mary’s stomach- which was definitely playing up 😳
    We headed for breakfast at a nearby bakery and attempted to work out what was what as our Spanish is still extremely elementary. With the locals all queuing up to overhear our attempts 😂
    We collected up our rucksacks and set off on the Camino del Norte with Trevor in full swing. Helpful/unhelpful locals telling us when we had gone wrong! Getting out of Irun was fairly challenging with roadworks blocking paths and signage of the way not as clear as we are used to, or hidden behind vans!
    We started the great ascent, oxygen masks on and off we went.
    We climbed through woods for the majority, until we got through the tree line and into a clearing with a little church and fantastic views over Irun town and beyond.
    Little did we know the climb had only just begun and continued for the next hour or so. We were both in Plodicus mode and at times Mary felt quite exhausted- she usually loves the challenge of an uphill.
    As we climbed the views became more and more amazing, with some to open sea and others to mountains and towns in the distance. There were eagles soaring overhead at points.
    Along the way there were small castles and tors where people gathered for photo opportunities.
    On one of these a little chit chat befriended Mary and kept her company for a good 10 mins.
    The climb down into Lezo and Errenteria was full of moon rocks that were very dodgy on the ankles. As we descended and ascended we kept hearing grunting and heavy breathing as a whole tranche of fell runners were running this route! 😱
    We stopped in Lezo, a cute little town and had a drink as we were only half an hour away from our room for the evening.
    However finding this place was a nightmare through huge roadworks, canals, railway lines and strange communal lifts that take you from the lower to upper parts of town - Trevor was having a meltdown, we were having a meltdown- but we made it in the end - a nice calm room for the evening- and a buffet breakfast to look forward to in the morning 👍
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 47 - Errenteria to San Sebastián

    7–8 Haz 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After a reasonable night we got up to a buffet breakfast to give us strength to navigate the way out of town and back to the trail.
    This went a whole lot better than the way in 😂
    Today was overcast with the odd sunny interval. We walked through to Pasaia following the coast past a huge cargo tanker, boat building factories and a breakers yard that held an enormous mountain of old boat chains.
    Pasaia was a quaint little place full of passages that you could imagine pirates and smugglers scuttling down. We had to get a little ferry across the estuary to then walk around to Donastia and Saint Sebastian.
    Leaving the other side was a matter of climbing 1.3 km of stairs - no mean feat carrying our rucksacks!
    The path then was along the coast and reminded us of many an Isle of Man walk, with rocky headlands, the sea crashing below, seagulls swooping about and much up and downhills.
    We eventually spotted the city ahead - which was quite imposing.
    After a steep descent we came to a long beach full of surfers, volleyball players and sun worshipers, despite the lack of sun!
    We sat on a bench and pondered the scene, very tempted to go running down the beach to dip our feet in, but too much with rucksacks and our gear - plus the Plodicus was starving!
    San Sebastián is a big, thriving Mecca for tourists, especially food lovers , from around the globe. It has big wide streets and piazzas full of bars and eateries.
    Great architecture and a wide and varied history. Another assault on the senses as you wander in after a days walking.
    Staying in a groovy modern room, right in the heart of the action. Hoping for a good sleep 💤 The map only covers part of the journey!! At least 16km walked today 👣👣👣
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 48 - San Sebastián to Orio

    8–9 Haz 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We awoke in San Sebastián and went in search of breakfast. We witnessed a massive clean up operation sorting the city centre out after last night’s invasion, there were street cleaning machines spraying everywhere, dustcarts collecting all the rubbish - and an eerie lack of tourists, which was wonderful. Unfortunately nowhere was open until we left the warren of piazzas and headed for the main road. Avoiding the flower watering sprinklers we found an open bakery 🙌
    After breakfast we hit the road again. Today was overcast, muggy and with very little wind. We walked the first 3 km along the various large bays of the city. Then the inevitable uphill steep climb to the cliff tops. The way was through small lanes, woods and old Roman roads made of large uneven rocks. We met a steady stream of other pilgrims that the Plodicus picked his way past.
    Views were minimal due to overcast, misty, missley weather. Towards the end of the walk we came across an Armageddon cafe that catered for pilgrims for a donation, but left leaflets on the tables foretelling of the end of the world!!
    We headed into Orio over the bumpy Roman path, attempting not to break an ankle then had to negotiate a large motorway before getting here.
    We then had to order lunch at a busy bar and ended up with a large baguette rather than the salad we thought we had ordered!!
    The rain got harder and the gloom moved in. We went off to find our happy apartment, only to find out we are sharing it with the couple who own it!
    Eider, the owner was very interesting on Basque history and information. We need to learn some basque phrases as it is a completely different language to Spanish.
    We went off to sort out some food and due to large baguette couldn’t decide what we wanted.
    Simon insisted on 2 double Brandy’s to cope with the dilemma.
    In fact he threatened to throw himself in the harbour if he didn’t get them!!
    Tea ended up being a pecan plait and some cherries!!
    However we do have some eggs for breakfast as we can use cooking facilities.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 49 - Orio to Getaria

    9–10 Haz 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Simon got up very determined about his eggs for breakfast- I think our hosts were quite amused but could see he meant business 😂
    We had a short walk today so weren’t in a major rush to leave and managed to get to the tourist office for our credentials to be stamped.
    The day was once again overcast with the threat of rain. However we went be with the be bold and start off cold attitude and kept those ponchos in their pouches.
    We followed the coast out of town and saw lots of energetic teenagers either rowing, running or cycling around.
    The route then took us up over the headland, quite a steep trek with vines and a big camping vibe. A little ant dog started chasing Simon and nipping at his heels, he resisted the temptation to squish it as could have caused an uproar!!
    Then it was down into Zarautz a buzzing seaside town with lovely boulevards and beaches. A Mecca for the surfers.
    After this we hugged the coast for around 4km to our stop for today Getaria, a fish lovers paradise.
    On the approach we were greeted by an American we had spoken with yesterday. She was a jolly pilgrim who had done a number of Caminos. We discussed the late timings of dinners issue. It was causing her lots of indigestion problems!!
    We continued into town on our lunch quest only to be hailed by our hosts from last night.
    The lunch time crush was upon us and Simon grabbed the last available table. Unfortunately it started raining and we were at the end of the awning so raincoats and ponchos had to put in an appearance.
    The waitress initially seemed a little brusque but then came up trumps with an English translation of the menu 🙌. We have been trying out our Basque speaking so when I went to order she seemed to warm to us 👍
    She was concerned about us getting wet and helped to move us into a slightly drier spot.
    We ordered a selection of the tapas - on the whole minus the bread with some of the local wine that our host had recommended and had a great lunch.
    We then headed off to find our room around the corner - it’s very swish, the kind of room you don’t want to leave- overlooking the church and the old town alleys.
    After a power shower and rest we went on a wander around the harbour - reminding us of many an evening stroll in port st Mary, or a Greek island.
    Bought some cakes on the way back for supper in the room.
    Now preparing for 20 km tomorrow 👣👣👣. Adios Amigos 👋
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 50 - Getaria to Deba

    10–11 Haz 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We left Getaria on a cup of coffee and a banana as we had decided to breakfast in Zumaia, the home town of Eider our host in Orio. Zumaia was just over an hour on our walk today. Leaving Getaria we hit a number of uphill climbs as we went over the headland. The weather was brighter with a blue sky, occasional sunny intervals and fluffy white clouds.
    After Zumaia we had decided to leave the official Camino route to do the coastal walk which was a little longer and contained more challenging ascents and descents.
    The views were magical and spectacular.
    On one particular challenging ascent we came across the school party of over 100 teenagers coming down as we attempted to go up. We had some amusing interactions with the young people.
    We continued along the route through forest tracks, up mountain tracks, down Roman razor roads, fenced in styles (interesting manoeuvres in rucksacks).
    Eventually arriving at the top of Deba town. Simon announced there were many sets of stairs to descend much to Mary’s horror - then we spotted the magic lifts that kindly dropped you down into town.
    We stopped at a bar for a couple of drinks to plan next steps. Our accommodation for the evening had a shared kitchen so we planned a supermarket trip for Simon’s potato supper.
    After this we followed the sat nav to find the path to our accommodation. The path was steep but after 50 metres or so Trevor kept telling us to return to the route. This was the start of our nightmare scene.
    We decided to try the tourist information office for help - ha ha!!
    We asked them about the location of our accommodation and they said oh dear that is a different place. We asked for help to get a taxi there - all they did was give us a list of numbers that were no use, next suggestion was a bus - next one leaving in 1 minute, after that not one for 2 hours!! Then maybe you walk - but no help with where the magic path was. They were not helpful at all 🙄
    We attempted the bus unsuccessfully, then negotiated the map they had given us to find the road. We headed for this and had to set the sat nav as though we were a car. The road was an insane gradient going up, just to finish us off with our shopping as well as our rucksacks. A taxi came by with a green light on Mary hailed it and said where we needed to go, the driver indicated he had heard of us at the tourist office we hopefully agreed, however he said he didn’t understand and drove off 😡
    We continued our torturous journey, the Plodicus said we should have slept at the train station (which we had passed 3 times and need to go back to tomorrow)
    As I walked behind I could see he was developing a slanted shoulder- due to carrying the shopping-
    After another half hour of lung busting uphill a winged chariot arrived, stopped and a lady said ‘where are you going’ Mary said the name of our accommodation and she said ‘that is my home!’ ‘ would you like a lift?’
    She saved the day Simon reckons she had gold wings and a halo 😇
    She listened to what had happened and said she would show us the quick path way back.
    We arrived to a very beautiful setting overlooking the town and the bay. It is a shame there is no signpost in the town to the magic path!!!
    We attempted to come to terms with what had happened, cooked our potato supper and sat outside looking at the beautiful vista, calming down. According to Mary’s apple information we have climbed the equivalent of 255 flights of stairs today!! And that is why we are in heaven now 😂
    So it’s time to get some rest as we train it to Bilbao tomorrow- after descending the magic path of course!!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 51/52 - Deba to Bilbao

    11–13 Haz 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We found the magic path but have to admit there would have definitely been some expletives through uphill rocky razor roads, nettles and thorns with very few signs confirming we were moving in the right direction!!
    We had a very friendly guard at Deba station who helped us purchase right tickets to Bilbao.
    At Bilbao we headed into town and had a lucky find with a cafe that did fried eggs and bacon and toast.
    We were both tired so headed for tourist information in the swirly burley of a new city.
    We got credentials stamped and bought tickets from a mad machine, then headed for what we hoped would be our bus stop! However here we were given conflicting information with regards to which side of the street our bus went from. Both bus shelters were constantly full of people and conflicting information with regards to the routes. We gave up waiting and went to find a taxi. The taxi brought us to the furthest regions of Bilbao! Full of Suburbs and blocks of apartments. We were dropped off in Bilbao’s equivalent of Castle Vale in Brum! With flags hanging from every other window in support of athletico Bilbao!
    Our tired and overwhelmed state of view didn’t help.
    We located the apartment we had a room booked in and met Andres, an ethnic body builder Arnie who spoke no English.
    We hid in our room for 40 mins trying to recover our wits , thinking ‘How did I get here?’
    We took the decision to stick with it, grabbed up our laundry bag and headed out to meet our new community. Carefully, like Hansel and Gretel we followed the warren’s of alleyways to the lift that dropped us off the hill to the local town.
    We discovered the local launderette, set our washing off and went to see what else was on offer!!
    We ended up having a few beers at a local bar where we met friendly folk and decided our new mantra needed to be ‘Ride the river’!
    We then had dinner at the local takeaway. Grabbed breakfast goodies at a supermarket and by some miracle found our way back to our comfortable room and slept well.
    After breakfast we headed back on down to the local town, where Simon decided he was getting his hair cut- much to local barbers amusement!!
    Then headed to the bus stop that we had identified the previous evening.
    We have enjoyed a lovely day, rucksack free, taking in the Guggenheim museum, local fine art museum plus many other lovely sites ending up in the old town where we found food and wine before finding a taxi back in good time to sleep. Before hitting the road again tomorrow 💤
    Okumaya devam et