Winter in Europe

In August I feel a lack of motivation to travel. The countries to come are more difficult to travel to than the previous ones and it's the second anniversary of my trip.
All in all it is reasonЧитать далее
In August I feel a lack of motivation to travel. The countries to come are more difficult to travel to than the previous ones and it's the second anniversary of my trip.
All in all it is reason enough for me to spend time with my family and travel to Germany for a few weeks.
I travel around and visit friends and family - there's not enough time everywhere.
I will spend the winter in Europe. Then I'll continue in spring 2025.
How? We'll see. 😊Читать далее
I have rented a flat and enjoy the luxury of warm water, an all-time-accessible bed, a freezer(!), electricity and internet…
The turks have an expression for lazyness:
It says that the baked pears are flying into ones mouth and that is exactly my feeling here. 😇
In the garden the small kitty of two months wants to play and nags on my toes.
I use the time to do some photo editing and research some new hikes for the upcoming weeks. ⛰️Читать далее
ПутешественникIl va falloir faire de la place dans la sacoche de guidon...
Rolling into Georgia.
The change of country is just as relaxed as ever.
The only difference is my doubts as to whether I've made a mistake by calculating my 90 days five times :D
Nobody raises any objections to my departure. I'm asked to open any bag and am asked if I have any alcohol or tobacco with me.
After a few minutes the act is complete.
On the Georgian side they ask me where I want to go. This question keeps coming up - maybe someone can explain to me whether this is just small talk or has a deeper background - in any case, I have to pass, my navigation over the last seven days has been solely focussed on leaving Turkey. I haven't done any research on the country I'm entering.
But the lady behind the counter doesn't seem to mind.
*Rumms* - I hear the hammering of the stamp on my passport, which seals my entry and I am welcomed into the country.
I make it just a few kilometres past the border post behind a thin row of trees, set up my tent there and go to sleep - a minor illness is on the horizon.
I'm very tired, my limbs ache and so does my head. I prepare my food and my body is already shivering as the sun disappears and I crawl into my cosy sleeping bag, where I feverishly sleep through the next 12 hours.Читать далее
Exit in Kars - blatant. This is Turkey too?
The air is cold and I pull on my jumper. The people look just as friendly and interested as before, but as I roll through the town, the familiar shouts and invitations to the national drink are missing.
The landscape changes - it is now lush green meadows stretching over gentle hills to the mountains on the horizon. The last 100 kilometres of Turkey give it a completely new look. Here I have an even stronger feeling of vastness than before.
For the last time, I share Çay and a meal with three locals while enjoying the phenomenal view.
Lost in thought, I roll through small villages with cows and geese and review the last three months.
I had no idea what to expect - certainly not that I would have such intensive contact with the culture and be so enthusiastic about it that I would now start conversations with other people on the street myself.
That I feel gratitude in a new dimension: for the people who planted the food that I can enjoy, for the people who paved the road that I am allowed to drive on. For the privilege of being here now, at least as a guest, mostly as a friend or already a member of the family.
For the people who accompany me for a short or long stretch of my journey. From whom I can learn something.
A new part of my personality has come to the surface.
I have experienced warmth from strangers and want to pass this on.
I have travelled to the end of Turkey - further east than ever before.
Tears of joy well up in my eyes as I realise this and think of my grandpa, with whom I would have loved to share this experience.
Tomorrow begins a new adventure within the adventure: Georgia!Читать далее
ПутешественникWe can feel your thankfulness and feelings through the letters - beautiful ❤️
I wake up in the morning and feel the heat of the sun that has already risen. The night was pleasant, but I was too exhausted to make high demands.
I'm still tired but already have adrenalin in my blood. Just under 400 kilometres to the Georgian border. Everything is doable, but my stomach reacts sensitively to stress and makes me feel it. 😬
A good breakfast follows and I cycle to the next major town on the route:
Patnos.
The bike gets a minimum of attention here again:
-The chain is already really worn out and has jumped off my sprocket several times in the last three days.
-A broken spoke is replaced and when retightening the nuts I ask the mechanic not to use all his physical strength so that I can loosen the connection myself with my own thin arms in an emergency.
- New oil makes the chain go round
There's also a bus station - this time I have a good feeling and buy tickets for 1 person and 1 bike. Departure tomorrow at noon, I'm also offered accommodation behind the ticket counter. Top 😍
I spend the time until departure chatting to the shop assistant in the supermarket, the sales assistant in a perfume shop and Mohammed, who sells tea and coffee at the station.
Bike and bus - it's as simple as that. =)Читать далее
So my stay cannot be extended. 😑
I find a bus company that would transport me and my bike, but it doesn't leave until the day before my residence permit expires. The information they give me is sparse and doesn't give me a good feeling, so I prefer to set off on my own.
I have no time to lose and set off in the afternoon. It's 400km to the next Georgian border point and I have 3 1/2 days left. It's going to be a tight ride if I have to do it all alone. I would probably have to do two stages a day. 😬
On the one hand, I detest such stress (especially here, where you're invited for a çay every hour), but on the other hand I'd like to find out if I'm fit enough for it.
I try 👍 hitchhiking for an hour, without success.
Then I set off, I want to do 60 km today.
I cycle through the night. There is little traffic and my safety vest and warning light are finally being used again.
Good music motivates me and the darkness takes away the visual stimuli so that I can think and reflect more.
A few hours pass and at some point I stop for a snack break.
A moped pulls up next to me and two young men ask me if I'm hungry or if I have dust.
I answer, not entirely honestly, that I don't feel anything like that. 🤥
I would like to stay, but I have to do as many kilometers as possible to leave the country in time.
They speed off. Meanwhile, I try to charge my broken cell phone, which has been stuck in an endless loop all day.
While I'm squatting on the ground eating a pudding, the moped comes back - I've been caught. 😁
We ride down to the bay, to the group's regular café. It turns out to be one of the most pleasant conversations I've had here. 🥰
With renewed energy, I start the last hour of today's stage and finish it at the 72nd kilometer. Tired, I set up my tent next to a small hut at the edge of the field. And then a tent pole breaks 😩. So I sleep under the stars.
It's 9 degrees, a temperature I've never experienced before... the continental climate is making itself felt.
Wrapped up in my winter clothes, I fall into a deep sleep.Читать далее
Arrival in Tatvan. We sit down in a small café whose architecture and range of products make us wonder. There are hot drinks, but also small snacks, like in a small mini-market. A door leads into a large waiting hall. The concept is not right at all. 😵💫
Bruno finally solves the puzzle and finds out that we are sitting in the cafeteria of a hospital. 😁
We are invited on a tour, which I would have loved to do, but I have to go to the police. My stay in Turkey is coming to an end and I'm hoping to get a few extra days out of it.
We make a few phone calls at the gatehouse there to identify the relevant authority. While we're standing there, a few colleagues say goodbye and after a few minutes, an estimated 30 people know about my intentions today.
They give me a small piece of paper with the most important information. 85 days stay, request extension.
I'm supposed to go to the immigration office tomorrow.
Overnight stay at a family-run campsite. Many Kurdish families have a picnic there. One of the street dogs is so happy that his whole body wiggles back and forth. 😄
I take a dip in Lake Van. With my head under water, I hear almost nothing and feel a deep sense of calm that I haven't felt for a long time. So many interactions, so many conversations every day.
The water tastes salty and when I dry off I feel like I've been bathing in soapy water 😁 - an interesting combination!
The next morning I want to take the dolmus (local minibus in and between the towns). A Kurdish family starts their picnic next to me and invites me to join them. How I would have loved to take this opportunity!
The atmosphere is even more different from what I have experienced in Turkey so far. Men and women are mixed at the picnic and the perceived "hierarchy" (the differences in behaviour?) is less pronounced. Women look at you and you can make eye contact - that wasn't so easy in large parts of Turkey.
There are so many questions in my head about the cultural differences.
I realise that Kurdish women are fighting for equal rights and therefore have a different role in society. I would have loved to enrich this knowledge with conversations, but I have to move on.
Unfortunately, they can't help me at the immigration office because visa matters are managed by a different authority. Instead, we have a great time having lunch and guessing ages. I'm pretty close to the truth with all my colleagues, but I fail completely with one 😆
In retrospect, I would like to apologise to the colleague in question for making him look almost 20 years older. 🤗
Unfortunately, this is where Bruno and I part ways. We've known each other for a month and have been cycling together through the sweltering heat for two weeks. A small, special chapter is closed. He will set off for Istanbul by public transport to slowly make his way home.Читать далее
Tough day today. 38C and the sun. There's a lot of climbing and runter⛰️. The scenery is fantastic but the heat is sweltering. The day starts at what feels like 30 degrees and heats up to 38 degrees 🌡️.
I take water with me at every opportunity but within half an hour it's at body temperature and no longer refreshing 🥵. Luckily they give me frozen bottles on the way. 🙏
One person even stops and wants to know if I need food or drinks. When I say no, he wants to give me money in exchange if I don't have any! 😲
I'm really tired and just want to find somewhere in the shade to sleep.
They ask me if I want Çay.
Thanks, but no, I just want to sleep.
He persists.
- Çay?
- No, sleep!
- Çay?
- No, sleep.
- Come, Çay!
- Yok!
and after the tenth "Çay?" I say yes. 😮💨
An hour passes and I'm a bit fitter again, it's only a few kilometres to the town where Bruno is waiting.
You can get almost everything you need in Turkey. But rest is sometimes hard to come by. That's why I prefer to take short power naps in front of towns, then everything is easier and you can enjoy the conversations more.
In Baykan, I stand in the air conditioning jet of the supermarket. ❄️26 degrees, what a refreshment!
Bruno joins me and we look for a nice garden café. We watch the thunderstorm from a safe distance. ⛈️
We end up spending the night here too
Room and board are all on the owner and in the morning Bruno discovers a bag of fresh bread rolls next to him ❤️
In the evening, pleasant conversations develop with kids and teenagers aged 11-18.
The boys are really cute. Inquisitive, friendly, very caring. They invite us in for tea and don't accept any invitation from us, not even the chocolate we want to give them when they come shopping with us.Читать далее
I open my eyes and see the landscape passing before me. It is slightly hilly and I can see many fields where people are occasionally working.
Our compartment is well air-conditioned and looking at the landscape is a real pleasure.
Our compartment mate Ani looks like a ranger in his khaki-coloured clothes.
He's a funny guy and he knows how to emphasise things so well that the lack of a translator doesn't carry much weight. Outside, Diyarbakir passes by and we see one tower block after another. They are built but then only utilised to 30%. Then a new one is built. The construction industry seems to be booming, but whether the buildings will ever be fully utilised ...
We arrive in Kurtalan in the afternoon. The heat hits us in the face and we flee to a café.
Finding a place to sleep is very easy this time, we are recommended the city park.
I remember the complications with the police a few days ago... 🤭
We've just got all the shopping ready, want to buy some fruit - and are told to stay for a little tea.
We have a short crash course in Kurdish and I learn that Turkish is no longer fully appreciated/heard. Many people are Kurdish and understandably value it.
We set off to find a quiet spot in the park - please what? 😨
The whole park is full of people. Small groups are sitting on the grass or walking through the park, music is playing, children are playing, romping, riding and rolling around - a nightmare!
Bruno and I try to find a quiet corner, but like two colourful dogs we attract a lot of attention and are often approached. 😬
We have found a spot and a group of young people in tow. I'm dog-tired but try to hold a conversation at first.
It's no use - as soon as one group leaves, the next one arrives.
At some point, I concentrate on building up the time and only answer sporadically. We eat and are visited by two little girls who are very interested.
We eat and offer them something.
When we have finished, I politely ask them to let us rest and they leave us.
Tired, I close my eyes and wake up not long afterwards with itchy feet - mosquito bites!
I anoint my feet, fall asleep, wake up and itch again. I anoint myself again.
The next time I wake up from the itching, I discover the beasts in my tent. About fifteen hungry beasts have made it into my tent and pounced on me.
There's a brief massacre and then it's quiet - I fall asleep...
... until I wake up to a jet of water hitting my tent. The park lawn is being sprinkled. Tired, I sit in my tent and monitor the amount of water. After a quarter of an hour, the spook is over. 🙏😴
I oversleep the next day. Bruno is already driving off because it's going to be 38 degrees in the shade again.
The ride is demanding and hilly and forces me to cycle slowly. I keep cool by keeping my clothes wet.Читать далее
We roll into Malatya and Bruno buys his first loaf of bread from a bakery. It's not wrapped up yet and someone invites us to a barbecue. 😄
We roll through the city and see the result of the earthquake that shook this region a year ago.
Many buildings have cracks in their façades and are still uninhabitable today. A large part of the population has been living in containers ever since. Some of them have been put together on many areas cleared for this purpose (former car parks?). Mini-markets have been positioned directly opposite, also housed in containers.
We are told that every family has victims to mourn and we are shown some photos of the deceased. The anonymous statistics and figures from television and newspapers are given a face and make the story more tangible.
Former landmarks have also fallen victim to the shocks. The former market hall no longer exists, but a new market, also made of containers, has been built in its place.
The satellite map shows many newly built neighbourhoods. It is not certain whether the new buildings are now earthquake-proof, as the law on earthquake-proof construction has been in place since the turn of the millennium.
Burak crosses our path, a bright man with whom I talk about religion - a big topic here. Many Muslims try to convince me, as a non-religious person, of Islam, but he conducts a very open dialogue and skilfully links topics of faith with those of morality. I would have loved to continue the discussion, but my days in Turkey are coming to an end. He also regrets that he doesn't have more time and, instead of inviting us to dinner, wants to pay for it. He offers us money, a bizarre situation as we are the rich Europeans who don't have to mourn any deaths in the family and who live in an economically and politically stable country.
Normally I would have refused, but my gut feeling tells me that he feels a deep need and I overcome my first impulse to refuse.
He offers to answer questions about religion and faith and we stay in touch.
Finding a place to sleep that night is not difficult. We are shown a small park in the city centre, where it is nice and safe. A little strange at first, as everyone in Germany would turn up their noses. But the night is quiet.
On the second evening, we have the pleasure of barbecuing with Turgut. He takes us to a nearby lake where some Turkish families have already started barbecuing. Smoke hangs in the air and hangs over the lake.
Turgut doesn't give us the opportunity to join in. We are the guests and he wants to cater for us in the best possible way.
As a farewell and for the train journey, he gives us the vine leaves made by his wife and a lot of barbecue food. He apologises several times for not being able to spend more time with us and that he would have liked to be more hospitable, but he is leaving that night for a family wedding.
He takes us to the railway station, where friends of his are waiting. They turn out to be just as interested and welcoming.
Finally we are alone and there are still a few hours before the train departs. The person at the ticket counter turns out to be very funny and tries to put in a word for us with the train staff. Actually, only folding bikes are allowed.
As a memento, he gives me a 5Lira note with the date and his name on it - a little artefact for my travel diary.
An official from the station staff shows us how to do it and we sleep a little in the waiting hall.
The train arrives, we have our tickets 🎟️ and there's plenty of room on the train - off to bed and 😴.Читать далее