• Sharon and Arie in front of main temple in My Son
      Inside prayer space, looking outBuilding for storing offeringsJungle path in ChamCarvings outside of temple, right side is incomplete (imperfect)Arie demonstrating imperfection in carvingRuins at My Son

      My Son -- Champa Temple Complex

      20 mars 2018, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      About an hour outside of Hoi An is Vietnam’s most famous Champa Temple Complex — My Son. The complex consisted of a series of more than a dozen temples sites, each of which had approximately a dozen buildings. The temples were built from the 4th century to the 14th century AD, and were used for Hindu worship, although the primary God worshiped in the complex was Shiva (locally referred to as Bhadreshvara). The site was considered holy due to the geography — a valley, surrounded by mountains, with a river running through it. After the slaughter of the Cham, the complex fell into disuse, and was essentially lost for five hundred years. It was “re-discovered” in 1904 by a French archeologist, named M.C. Paris. Messr. Paris knew that the French archeologist Henri Parmentier was working on similar ruins in Cambodia (Angkor Wat) and invited him to see the complex.

      From 1937 to 1943, archeological work on the My Song complex was conducted. The first step involved removing the vegetation that had covered the various temples in the complex. Each “site” had multiple structures, built over hundreds of years. The sites were given letter designations from A through N. The finds were remarkable. The archeologists determined that each “temple” actually included buildings, including a building in which the monks conducted religious blessings, and one in which offerings were a stored. Sculptures sat within and around the temples, and many items were moved to museums. Then, when the war with France broke out, the excavations were stopped. Later, during the American/Vietnam war, the site was used by the Viet Cong for hiding. In a single week in August 1969, the Americans carpet bombed the site and almost every structure was destroyed, leaving only the temples at site C standing. Even now, as you walk through the site, you see enormous craters which were created when the bombs dropped.

      We had left the hotel at 7:30, so that we could beat the crowds to the site, and also avoid the heat. (It turned out perfectly, as it also allowed us to see the site before a huge rain storm blew in.). We were in the third vehicle to arrive to the site, and got to walk through the jungle alone. It was so gorgeous. We arrived at site C, where the only intact temples are, with a few other families. Wandering through the complex without hordes of other people was fantastic. We learned lots about the religious practices of the Cham, and the uses of each building. But, the most interesting thing that we learned was about the Cham view of perfection. According to the Cham, no human being can ever achieve perfection. Only the Gods can achieve perfection. So, in every religious structure, there is some purposeful imperfection included. The type of imperfection varies wildly, and it takes close examination to see the imperfections. In one temple, the imperfection was that a column was left incomplete. But my favorite “imperfection” was in a statute of Shiva. In the statute, Shiva raises her hands together, and places her thumbs together. When you first look at the statute, it looks right. But, when you look again and try to place your hands in the same way, you realize that the hands have been reversed. (Quy had Arie try to replicate the pose, and it was only when he did so that we saw the imperfection.). Subtle, but a beautiful “philosophy.”
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    • Beautiful Hoi An

      20 mars 2018, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Before we came to Vietnam, quite a few people told me that Hoi An was their favorite city in Vietnam. I read about the City, but didn’t really understand the hype. Well, now I get it.

      Hoi An is an old town, which was first established in the seventh century. The city was an active port for over a thousand years. Unlike other port cities in Vietnam, Hoi An had significant settlements by immigrants from China and Japan, who were both given royal permission to live and conduct business in the City. The culture and architectural styles of these immigrants became part of the fabric of the city, and their influences are still seen today.

      Despite the fact that central Vietnam was a battleground during both the French and Vietnam/America wars, the ancient part of the city escaped with little damage. Today, the ancient city is a huge tourist destination, filled with old houses, shops and alley ways. When we toured the city, we saw houses that are over 1000 years old, but still occupied by families who open the front part of their houses in exchange (for which they receive money from the government). We also saw the usual variety of temples, some of which have strong influences from Chinese and Japanese immigrants.

      Hoi An is actually known for two different things.

      First, Hoi An is the home of Vietnamese custom tailoring. Every other shop offers clothing and custom tailoring. Want a suit? No problem. Come in, pick out your fabrics, have your measurements taken, and come back a few hours later for your first fitting. Both Arie and I decided to take advantage of the opportunity to have some clothing custom made. I had done some research about which tailors to go to, and our guide, Quy, gave us some additional information. The first shop that we went to was BeBe. Arie decided to have a suit and two dress shirts made for him. There were literally thousands of fabrics, at various price points, from which to choose. After some discussion with the woman who was helping us (all of the salespeople in these tailor shops are women), Arie chose some fabrics and made some choices about the style. While we stood in the showroom, he was measured and the numbers were jotted down on a piece of paper. A small deposit was taken, and we were told to come back at 7:30 — about 5 hours later — for his first fitting. As I hadn’t found the fabric that I wanted for a wool coat that I had in mind, we headed to a second store called Laly. I found the right fabric for the outside of the coat, and a cool pattern for inside. But why stop at a coat, when I could easily add a couple of pairs of slacks to the order. Done. I was told to return the next afternoon.

      Just before dinner, we returned to Bebe for Arie’s fitting. So, a mere 5 hours after we had ordered his suit, Arie was trying on a brand new suit, and two beautiful shirts. It was crazy.

      While I watched Arie try on his new duds, I exchanged some texts with Maya, in which I joked about buying a whole new wardrobe. She was with Hannah, and they told me to go back and order something else, as I’d regret not ordering more. So, I decided to go back and order a pair of silk slacks and a top! In the 48 hours in which we were in Hoi An, Arie had two fittings and I had three (getting the right style for the coat turned out to be complicated, as we were working from a picture that I’d brought with me.). But, by the time we left, our clothes were finished, and we arranged to have them shipped home. Had we been in Hoi An for a week, I think that I would have had a hard time not ordering more clothes. It was super fun, and not very expensive by US standards.

      The second thing for which Hoi An is known is the manufacture and display of fabric lanterns, which are made in small shops and factories in and around Hoi An. These lanterns come in half a dozen shapes, although the “garlic” shape seems to be most popular. They come in a variety of sizes, from relatively small (8 inches long) to quite large (2 feet long). And, the lanterns come in every color of the rainbow. The lanterns are hung everywhere — on trees, balconies, and wires that go across the streets. The colors and shapes look beautiful during the day. But, at night, it is simply magical, particularly in the ancient part of town, were the lights in the shops are pretty dim and the lanterns glow. (I understand that during the full moon, all of the lights are turned off in the ancient city, and it is particularly gorgeous.).

      I was completely enchanted by the lanterns, and decided that they would be an excellent addition to the garden at the River. Arie was initially skeptical, particularly when I mentioned that I wanted to hang them outside and put bulbs in them. (“What? How do you think I could do that? Don’t count on that, Sharon.”). But, as we walked along, I won him over to the idea. We found a wonderful shop that specialized in lanterns, and actually made their own (as opposed to simply buying lanterns from someone and just selling the finished product.). We had a lengthy conversation with the shopkeeper, Van, who taught us about the different fabrics that are used for making lanterns, the various sizes and shapes, and told us which lanterns were best for hanging outside. She also told us that she could ship them to the US. If they were sent by sea, delivery is in 3-4 months, but the cost is considerably less. We selected an assortment of shapes, in an array of colors, and she said that she’d make them for us and then ship them. She also said that she’d have to call the “boss lady” to come and discuss the order with us. We said fine and began the process of ordering. In about 5 minutes, a woman who we’d met before arrived by motor scooter. Turns out that Van called the “box lady,” not the “boss lady.” We had met her earlier when we stopped in the shipping “office” to inquire about the prices of sending a box to the US. Apparently she has a monopoly on shipping and services all of the shops in the area. I guess that is expected in a small town. So, lanterns are ordered and should arrive mid-summer, if we are lucky. Whenever they arrive, I know that hanging them in the garden will be a lovely reminder of a delightful visit.

      Of course, every city also has its special foods. Hoi An has two — banh mi, and white rose dumplings. The banh mi are Vietnamese sandwiches, and can be filled with pork, chicken, beef, or eggs, as well as a smattering of vegetables. Anthony Bourdain has made one shop famous, and our guide took us there. Each sandwich was $1.25, and was quite yummy. (We actually went there twice in two days.). White rose dumplings are handmade rice noodles, which are shaped into a rose, filled with pork or shrimp, and steamed. We tasted them on our first night, and then got to see them made when we toured Hoi An. The woman we saw making them lived in one of the oldest houses in Hoi An. She and just a few other women make this delicacy, and then they sell them to restaurants around town. Seeing them made was quite interesting, and a real treat — as was eating them.
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    • Hue to Hoi An

      19 mars 2018, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      We rose early and hit the road for Hoi An. The drive was quite stunning — lots of small villages, green rice fields and rolling hills. One thing that I realized is that in Vietnam there are no highways, so you drive through fields and towns as you go from one place to another. And, the towns are actually on the road, rather than to one side or another. So, as you drive, you go through the middle of series of villages and small towns. Also, because sidewalks are pretty rare, as you drive through towns you are very, very close to shops and people’s homes.

      As we drove, I found it endlessly fascinating to peer into people’s private homes, which is easy because the doors and windows are generally wide open, to help with the heat. What I saw was quite a lot of poverty. I talked to both of our guides about this, and learned that there is a huge divide in the country between the rich and the poor, with a very, very small middle class. The average earnings for an individual are between $150 and $400 per month. Most households have multiple adults who work, which is necessary given the low earnings. (Caring for your aging family members is also a cultural obligation, so multi-generational families are the norm.). For those families who live in villages, they try to have gardens in which they can raise food and perhaps a few chickens, or a cow if they are lucky. People generally have enough money to eat very modest meals (lots and lots of rice), to buy clothing, and to have electricity and running water. Homelessness seems very rare. But, the houses are very, very simply furnished, with wooden furniture, and sleeping mats. Most houses do not have a refrigerator or hot water heater. Families share a scooter if they can afford it. Life in Vietnam is very hard.

      At the same time, the ravages of the war are not a distant memory. During both the wars for independence from France, and the American/Vietnam war, fighting was a constant, bombing was frequent, and starvation was common. Anyone who is 50 or older lived through these wars, and the stories are probably told endlessly to the younger generation. So, the people we spoke with consider the situation to be much improved, and seemed pretty sanguine about the economic realities of life in Vietnam. Both of our tour guides, as well as the young woman who led our food tour in Hanoi, said that life was improving in Vietnam, and that opportunities were growing. This fits with what you see — building everywhere, and people working hard to start businesses and make money in any way they can. (But, as an American, I can’t help but be reminded of how incredibly fortunate we are, in comparison to people in the rest of the world.)

      Our first stop was about an hour outside of Hue, where we walked to a beach and got to see some oyster beds. Unlike in Ha Long Bay, where the oysters are harvested for pearls, these oysters are eaten. The bay is relatively shallow, and old tires from motor scooters are cut in half and used as beds for the oysters. Once the oysters are harvested, the tires are laid in the road, where cars drive over them and break off the old shells. Then, the tires go back into the water where they are used again. Definitely recycling at its finest.

      After another hour in the car, we stopped at a beautiful peak in the Hai Van pass. Although it was still quite foggy, the view was lovely. And, again, we saw a bride posing for photos with her groom — he was wearing a red suit. (Red is the color of good fortune, but this is the first groom that I’ve seen in a red suit.). When I asked about the photos, our guide told me that about three weeks before a wedding, most couples put on their western wedding clothes, and have their photos taken in a few different locations. Then, the photos are blown up and displayed at the wedding banquet.

      Our next stop was Da Nang, where we went to the Cham museum. Most of the artifacts in the museum are from My Son, a Cham temple complex just outside of Hoi An. As the Cham were Hindus, the artifacts include sculptures of Vishnu, Brahman and Shiva, and the writing on the artifacts is in Sanskrit.

      Across from the museum is the “Dragon Bridge.” Why is it called that? Well, winding its way through the bridge is an immense yellow dragon, in steel. We saw the Dragon from the tail end. Sadly, we also saw it on a Monday. Apparently, on Saturday and Sunday, the dragon spews fire from its mouth!

      As we headed out of Da Nang, we stopped at “China Beach,” which was a place where American soldiers went for rest and relaxation. Now it is called Da Nang beach, mostly because the Vietnamese generally dislike the Chinese. Both of our guides gave us the same explanation for the views on the Chinese. First, China occupied Vietnam for the greater part of 1000 years. No one likes an occupier. Second, Chinese tourists have been flooding Vietnam for the last decade. They have a reputation for being pushy and cheap. The number of Chinese visitors to Vietnam is so high that they Vietnamese say “the Chinese are everywhere, even in my toilet (aka, bathroom). To accommodate the Chinese tourists who are interested in high class resorts and gambling, Vietnam is developing the beach in Da Nang into a little “Miami,” full of huge hotel/resort complexes, high rises and casinos. Not particularly beautiful, but likely to be a huge revenue source for Vietnam’s fastest growing city.

      Our last stop was a beautiful pagoda on a hill on the far side of Da Nang. The is the only pagoda in all of Vietnam which has a female Buddha! The pagoda is very beautiful. Behind the pagoda is a series of caves which each have another image of the Buddha. As you head down the hill from the Pagoda, you pass a “garden” inhabited by 9 dragons. We had seen many buildings decorated with 9 dragons, as this number of dragons symbolizes power and good luck, but this was our first garden. Very cool looking.

      We ended our day in Hoi An. . . But that’s for another post.
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    • Noon gate imperial palace
      Gate into Imperial PalaceImperial Palace -- biggest remaining structureClose up of PalaceCorridor of Imperial PalaceInside corridor at Imperial PalaceLooking from corridor into gardenGarden in House of the Mother of King

      Imperial Palace & Forbidden Purple City

      18 mars 2018, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      In addition to building an impressive tomb and temple, Ming Mang built a fabulous palace in the center of Hue. Like the tomb and temple, this structure is immense, and is surrounded by multiple walls and moats. Unlike the tomb, most of the palace was destroyed either during the war with France, or during the American/Vietnam war. Indeed, because the palace was used by the Viet Cong for hiding during the Vietnam war, it suffered heavy bombing, so very, very little of what was once a beautiful structure remains.

      The general outline of the palace is roughly visible, and there has been some reconstruction. However, all that really remains of the 19th century palace is the noon gate (through which people entered the palace), some of the corridors, and the rooms and the gardens of the King’s mother and grandmother. There are photos of the palace that were taken in the very early 1900s, and it is clear that the structure was stunning! Looking at the remains, and the photos, gives you some sense of what the palace must have looked like in its glory — a relatively western structure, that was decorated with traditional Vietnamese carvings and decorations. The overwhelming feeling that I had was one of sadness for the destruction.

      In the afternoon, we took a much needed rest at the hotel, as it was sweltering outside. Our guide, Quy, offered to take us to old Hue for dinner. He said that he knew local places, and that dinner for the 3 of us would cost $5 — TOTAL. We were game, and agreed to meet around 6. He asked us if we ate everything, and we said we did. . .

      For dinner, we walked from our hotel to old Hue. On the way, we got to see some new lights that were installed on the main street by a company run by our pal Doug Lee. The lights are very modern, and employ some amazing technology that Doug developed. It was fun to see something created by someone we know. .. makes the world seem oddly small.

      We had three stops for dinner.

      The first stop was a “shop” that was in an empty room that opened onto the street. Again — no refrigeration, no running water. Just two women and a burner, some small tables and stools for chairs. The dish we ate was a noodle soup with fish. The noodles were hand-made by one of the women, who literally made the rice dough in her hands, rolled it out on a small board, and then cut it into thin strips. The freshly made noodles were dropped into a pot of fish stock, and then scooped into our bowls with some fish. Quite tasty. I also liked the hard boiled pigeon eggs that we ate while we waited for our soup. Arie liked the soup, but his verdict on the eggs — meh.

      Our second stop was literally a corner, where a woman sat with a metal box and some baskets. She knew Quy, and he told us that this was one of his favorite places. She put 5 small stools on the corner — 2 for a tables, and 3 for us to sit on. She gave us three duck eggs. We cracked them open and scooped out a bite. When we realized that inside was. . . .well, I’ll spare you. Suffice it to say that we ate a polite bite or two, and said we had eaten too much soup.

      Last stop was another “shop” that was run by a mother/daughter team. We were served three bowls of turmeric noodles (good part) with intestines (not so good part). Again, we politely ate around the not so good part.

      Total cost for three people — $5.50. But, in retrospect, we should have stopped after the soup, and saved ourselves $3!
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    • Produce in Dong Ba Market
      Rambutan -- deliciousPassionfruit -- looks better than it tastesPackaged food -- who knows what it isFresh fishFish, brined and set on sheets to dryFresh fish sauce -- never seen it made beforePrepared foods

      Dong Ba Market in Hue

      18 mars 2018, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

      I am a sucker for a farmers’ market. I’ve been to farmers’ markets across the globe, and find them endlessly fascinating. But nothing really prepared me for the Dong Ba Market in Hue.

      This is a very large outdoor market, at which many people do their shopping. This is NOT a tourist market. There are no souvenirs or trinkets to buy. This is a place to buy produce, fish, meat, spices and some prepared foods. The entire market is outside. There is no refrigeration, whatsoever. (This does not strike most Vietnamese as being particularly strange, as most people do not have refrigerators in their home and only the very rich have a refrigerator that is large enough to store food for more than a few days.). There are tables, but no fancy stalls. Everything is put out each day, and put away each night, as there is no place to lock anything up.

      The produce section was interesting. Most of the items were recognizable to me, especially after being here in Vietnam for a week. Nothing too surprising here.

      The section of grains, rices and spices was completely perplexing to me. I had no idea what most things were, let alone how you’d cook with them.

      The section that had meats and poultry put Arie over the edge — no refrigeration, no ice, no sanitation, and the knives being used to cut/hack up the items looked like they hadn’t been washed in quite awhile. (Honestly, I thought that my generally stalwart hubby was going to be sick.)

      The stalls that had fresh fish were better, as the fish looked shiny with clear eyes. I did find it interesting that fish that had been brined were laid on the plastic sheets on the ground for drying. When our guide saw me looking at this he said, “sometimes people step on them, but it doesn’t matter because we cook them before eating them.” The stalls also had bubbling pots of all kinds of fish broth, fish sauce and soups . . well, let’s just say that there was a powerful fragrance of fish.

      As we strolled through the end of the market, in which there were “prepared” foods to buy, I asked our guide about the lack of refrigeration, etc., and what happened if someone bought food that made them sick. He looked at me perplexed. I repeated the question, and explained that if someone in the US went to a restaurant and got sick, they complained to the restaurant. He laughed and told me that if someone got sick after eating at a restaurant or stall in Vietnam, “that was their problem.”
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    • Ming Mang tomb
      Arie in gardens at Ming Mang tombArie strikes a pose with a palOne of guards to Thien Mu PagodaThien Mu PagodaIn the gardens behind the pagoda

      Hue -- Capitol of unified Vietnam

      18 mars 2018, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      For much of its history, Vietnam was either ruled by China, or governed by a series of warlords across the country. Each of these warlords ruled a group primarily composed of a single ethnic minority, which had the same cultural and religious practices. The first Vietnamese lord to unify the country was from the Nguyen lineage. The reason that so many Vietnamese carry the surname of Nguyen (38% of all Vietnamese, including our guides in both Hanoi and Hue) is related to the rule of this line of emperors. When Ming Mang (the second in the Nguyen line to rule over Vietnam) was the ruler, his subjects changed their names to Nguyen. And, to this day, Nguyen is the single most common name among Vietnamese.

      Ming Mang ruled for 21 years, from 1820 to 1841. He had 500 “wives” and 142 children. His regime was considered to be the golden age of the Nguyen dynasty, but his rule was brutal. He is probably best known outside of Vietnam for banning missionaries, as he was opposed to Christianity. This eventually led to the French taking over Vietnam. Within this country, he is noted for the brutal methods that he used to subdue the Cham, one of the largest ethic groups in Vietnam at that time. Historians estimate that under his repressive regime, the number of Cham (who were Hindu and also had different cultural practices) declined from 3 million to less than 500,000 people. His primary method of reducing the number of Cham was to institute a rule by which his soldiers were only paid for those days on which they brought him (or his designee, I presume) the heads of three Cham who had been killed that day.

      As ruler of Vietnam, Ming Mang devoted considerable resources to building an enormous temple complex in which he was buried.
      We started our day with a visit to the complex which is just outside of Hue. The complex is in relatively good repair, in spite of the bombings in the area during both wars with France and they American/Vietnam war. The entire complex is still surround by a wall, within which there are gardens and ponds filled with coi. The first building is a temple in which Ming Mang was buried. There are statutes and other structures on the grounds, which are decorated with ornate carvings, mostly of dragons (which are symbols of power). The complex is beautiful in a very wild kind of way.

      Our next stop was a boat ride along the Perfume river, in a dragon boat. The Perfume River used to be filled with fishing boats. As the number of fish declined (probably due to pollution, although the river looks pristine in comparison to the water we saw in Ha Long Bay), the boats were turned into private boats for short tours. The ride was lovely, and the breeze was appreciated, as it was incredibly hot and muggy.

      We left the boat and went to see the Thien Mu Pagoda, which is seven stories tall and is considered to be one of loveliest pagodas in all of Vietnam. (Of course, I’ve heard other pagodas described in this way . . .). Thien Mu means Celestial Lady, and there are a series of conflicting legends about a lady in red who used to appear on this spot and predicted that something beautiful would be build there. The original pagoda was built in 1601, but has been repeatedly rebuilt due to damage from typhoons. Behind the pagoda are the living quarters of monks. Many of the monks who live at this pagoda are very young (under 10) and are brought to the monks from orphanages, or by poor families who cannot care for them. When the young men reach adulthood, they can choose to remain, or leave. This pagoda was also the home of the Thich Quang Duc, the monk who burned himself to death in 1963 in opposition to Saigon’s anti-religious government. The car in which he drove himself to Saigon is on display.
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    • Grocery store on Saturday night in Hue
      Produce departmentWhat are these women buying??GuavasStrange street foodView from our room

      Saturday Night in Hue

      17 mars 2018, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      After a long car ride back to Hanoi, and a short flight, we arrived in Hue — the capital of Vietnam from the early 1744 when the Nguyen lord controlled all of South Vietnam until 1945 when the last emperor of Vietnam abdicated. The city is home to numerous historical monuments, including a famous citadel and a tomb. The entire city is recognized as a UNESCO heritage site.

      Our guide, Quy, was delayed, so we were met at then airport by Van. She gave us a brief description of the city, a suggestion for dinner, and mentioned that our hotel was near the largest modern “market” in Hue.

      After we settled into our hotel (very lovely, first built in the 1920s), we walked to the old part of town for a bite to eat. Following Van’s suggestion, we went to a restaurant called Hahn, where we were virtually the only Westerners. Much to our surprise, the menu had English translations. Given the wide variety of items that we’d never eaten, for the princely sum of $7 we ordered a sampler platter and two beers! The food of fresh and tasty. I particularly liked an egg dish that had puffed rice and shrimp. Arie like a savory rice custard. Although I could have eaten another round, we decided to explore further.

      We walked over to a pedestrian street, in which — thankfully — there were no motor scooters to dodge. Since it was Saturday evening, there were lots of people in the streets, both locals and tourists. We walked by a variety of food carts, with both savory and sweet treats. We stopped at a cart where they were making rolled ice cream. We settled on lychee, and ordered a cup. We watched the ice cream being prepared — milk is poured onto a cold surface, and is mixed with the fruit, then spread out and rolled. You can order the same treat in San Mateo for $10. Here it was $1. Yum.

      Next vendor was making something that the kids were gathered around. From asking a few onlookers, we figured out that it was some type of sugar, rolled in crushed peanuts. This mixture is then set on rice cracker, topped with coconut and a small drizzle of chocolate, and then covered with another rice cracker. The cost — $0.20. We gave it a try. Meh. But, for 20 cents . ..

      After filling our bellies, we decided to go to the modern market. The market is the top two stories of a large building. The top floor was had clothing and housewares. The items were all piled helter-skelter in bins and on shelves. People were everywhere, with lots of children in tow. One family had an infant in the bottom of a shopping cart — although based upon the fact that people were pointing and laughing at the sight, I gather that this is not the norm in Vietnam! The lower floor was a grocery store. The place was a madhouse. Seriously. On a Saturday night. The only sight that I could compare it to is an American grocery store before a hurricane or blizzard. People were everywhere. The lines were extremely long. Carts were full. While we recognized some products (ritz crackers and Oreos), many were puzzling to us. We were especially intrigued by women who were surrounding a styrofoam container in the produce section. In the container was a green fruit, covered by a white net (like you’d see on Asian pears in a US grocery store). The women seemed intent of getting the fruits that had a leaf attached. We couldn’t tell what the fruit was, and our use of google translator was fruitless. Turns out that it was a guava, and that getting one with a leaf attached guarantees freshness.
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    • Cruising in Ha Long Bay

      16 mars 2018, Gulf of Tonkin ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Vietnam has more than its fair share of UNESCO Heritage sites. One of the more famous ones is Ha Long Bay, which is a four hour drive from Hanoi. Scattered throughout the bay are between 2000 and 3000 small, limestone islands. The islands are relatively small, and almost none of them are inhabited. Having heard that the scenery is stunning, we opted to take a 3 day, 2 night cruise on the Dragon Legend, which is run by Indochina Junk. Given the length of the cruise, the boat is actually able to travel to Baitu Long Bay, which is part of the Ha Long Bay province, but is a little further off shore and has fewer boats. (Traveling to Ha Long Bay is wildly popular, and there are approximately 400 boats that take visitors on trips that range from a few hours in length, to a week long.)

      The Dragon Legend boat is supposed to resemble a traditional Vietnamese vessel, and is decorated with carved dragons (a symbol of prosperity). The name “Dragon Legend” refers to the legend regarding the formation of the islands. According to ancient legend, the islands in Ha Long Bay were formed when a dragon visited the bay, and the small islands were formed from the fire that she breathed. Baitu Long Bay is where the baby dragon settled. (The word “Baitu Long” means baby dragon.) The boat itself was lovely: lots of rosewood, dragon carvings, and beautiful rooms. The service was very attentive. Unfortunately, most of the food was so-so (too many sauces, and pretty bland).

      After getting settled into our rooms, we were able to go kayaking around some of the islands. Arie and I were quite excited to kayak, given how much we enjoy kayaking at the river. So, we enthusiastically scrambled into some of the most rickety kayaks that I’ve ever been in. (I swear that Arie’s paddle looked like it had been eaten by a dragon, as it was missing large chunks at the edges.) While the kayaks proved to be seaworthy, I found the whole experience to be quite depressing as the water is littered with trash. And, I mean littered — bottles, cans, bags of garbage, large chunks of styrofoam, etc. Apparently, the litter is tossed in the water by both the tourists, and the people who live and work in and around the Bay. While we were told that some of the tour companies were working on cleaning up the Bay, and that the amount of trash has decreased, there is still so much left to be cleaned up. By the time we had finished a 45 minutes kayak trip, I had had plenty, and happily returned to the boat.

      There were a total of 36 guests on the boat. Most of the guests were either American, English or Australian. There was also a large family from Taipei— from best that I could surmise, it was a couple with four grown daughters. We met some interesting people, including two families traveling with relatively young children (ages 12 and 9). Both Arie and I were impressed with the kids, who were both charming and curious about the world. We also met a couple from North Carolina; the wife is an environmentalist and is working in Hanoi for 5 months. It was interesting to chat with her about life as an ex-pat in Hanoi.

      On the second day of the cruise, we were treated to a barbecue on the beach. I expected picnic blankets, and a simple meal of grilled meats. What we actually got was something else entirely — formal tables, with white table clothes, ceramic plates and glasses. It was surprising elegant for a beach barbecue. And, we were served the best meal of the cruise —endless platters of grilled meat, chicken and fish. It was just lovely. Arie kept saying, “no one is going to believe this — a formal spread on an island in Vietnam!

      After 2 comfy nights on the boat, we departed early on a speedboat and returned to Ha Long for our next adventure . . .
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    • Happy Buddha
      Temple which houses three buddhasThree buddhas13 story pagodaView of complex from 13 story pagodaSharon and Tam in front of pagoda with 100 ton buddha100 ton buddhaBeautiful details everywhereStatute of shiva

      Temple Complex at Bai Dinh

      14 mars 2018, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      After leaving the caves, we were taken to lunch at the hotel at Bai Dinh. When we arrived for lunch, we were taken to an enormous banquet room, at which there guests sitting at two tables. Otherwise, the place was totally deserted. We sat for quite some time, waiting to be fed. After a while, someone rolled out a cart with a variety of dishes, none of which looked very good. As it turned out, looks were not deceiving, as the food was terrible. It was not until many hours later that I realized that the reason we’d eaten at this restaurant is that it was the only way to gain entrance to the top of the Temple Complex at Bai Dinh. If you don’t eat at the restaurant, you have to walk up from the bottom, and then back to the bottom to get back to your car. These logistical considerations don’t seem like a big deal until you actually visit the temple complex, which is positively immense.

      The Temple Complex was built from 2003 to 2010, on the site of an earlier temple. We were told that the complex was built by an enormously wealthy businessman, but we couldn’t seem to find out any information about him, how he earned his money, or why he choose to build the complex. What we did learn is that the complex is the largest in Vietnam and is thought to house the largest Buddha in Southeast Asia (100 tons).

      To the best of my recollection, there are at least 6 temples/pagodas in the complex. The largest pagoda is at the top of the hill. It houses 3 Buddhas, which are 80 tons each. The buddhas, are cast in bronze and covered in gold leaf. The three buddhas represent past, present and future. The 3 Buddhas are surrounded by statutes who guard them, as well as elaborate carvings. Also, there are niches all around the room (and, as we soon discovered, all over the complex) in which there are small gold leaf Buddhas. Each person who donates at least $500 USD to the construction of the complex has their name placed on a plaque in front of the niche. I was surprised that a $500 contribution gave you the right to have your name put on a niche, but as Arie pointed out, $500 is a lot for someone who is Vietnamese. As we walked around the pagoda, we noticed that people who praying and leaving money in the donation boxes placed everywhere. We also saw women who work at the complex remove the donations (cash by the handful) and place it in baskets. We were told that the money was used for upkeep of the complex.

      Next to that pagoda, up a hill, we walked up at least 300 stairs to see an enormous “Happy Buddha,” who has a beatific smile and an enormous belly. The legend is that this Buddha travels the world, making people happy.

      Down the hill is a 13 story pagoda, that houses an Indian Buddha, and ashes from a famous Indian Buddhist (I couldnt’ quite figure out the details). In this pagoda, all of the carvings and gold work were done by Indians, who came to work on the complex.

      A bit farther down the hills is a convention center (which was empty).

      Then, as you walk down further, there is yet another pagoda, which has a 100 ton Buddha. Again, many, many people are praying and leaving offerings.

      Further down the hill is a pagoda that has the Indian god Shiva. Why? I don’t know. But, he was stunning.

      Next, there is a pagoda that houses a bronze bell and drum. The instruments are played at holidays (like lunar new year) and the sound carries for approx 15 miles.

      As you continue to walk down the hill, you pass corridors filled with 250 carved statutes of the ancestors. Touching the statutes is supposed to bring good luck, so their feet’s, knees — any body part that one could reach — are shiny where they were rubbed. And, behind these statutes are many more niches, with Buddhas who are marked for their donors.

      The size of the complex is awesome and overwhelming, all at the same time. It took us the better part of two hours just to walk through, and I could have spent hours gazing at the beautiful figures and people watching.
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    • National Park - Vietnamese Style

      14 mars 2018, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      We left Hanoi bright and early in the morning, after another amazing brunch at the hotel. (We actually got up extra early, so that we had enough time to work our way through the offerings at the brunch table, including pho for breakfast!)

      Our first stop of the day was Trang An, which is a national park and a UNESCO heritage sight. The park sits on the Red River, and is comprised of a series of caves that you can go through on bamboo boats which are paddled by women (exclusively). This is an enormously popular tourist destination for Vietnamese and Chinese guests. As we visited on a Wednesday, there were no lines to get a boat. However, on the weekends you can literally wait for hours to get on a boat. The fact that there is any wait is a little surprising, as there are 2000 boats operated at the park at any given time, and each boat can take 4-8 people. But, if thousands of people show up, I guess that there is quite a wait.

      In our boat there were just 4 people — the woman paddling the boat, our guide Tam, Arie and I. According to our guide, the women are paid a set fee per boat, so our paddling a boat with only 4 people is probably considered a plum assignment.

      We spent about 2 hours in the boat, going around the huge limestone mounds (very small islands) and in/out of the caves. Some of the caves were 250 meters in length, while others were 800 meters. In total, we went through 9 caves. As you travel, you can see that some of the islands have pagodas or temples on them. We actually got to stop and explore one of the islands, which had both a pagoda (for Buddha) and a temple (for the worship of ancestors). It was all extraordinarily beautiful.

      Given the natural beauty of the area, I was not particularly surprised to see that it was also a popular spot for wedding photography. During the course of our journey, we saw three different brides, including one who had somehow left her boat, gone onto a rock and was being photographed with her groom. Getting such a shot seemed a little tricky to me, but it is obviously pretty common.
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