Koala Highway: Otway Surprises

The Great Ocean Road continued its sinuous dance along Victoria's dramatic coastline, each curve revealing cliffs that grew progressively more imposing as we journeyed westward. The road itself seemed to gain confidence with each kilometre, transforming from gentle coastal meander into bold engineering statement carved into ancient rock faces. Small townships punctuated our progress—each offering their own interpretation of coastal living, from fishing heritage to tourist adaptation, all united by their spectacular oceanic backdrop.

Apollo Bay provided necessary pause for both sustenance and unexpected laundry requirements. A rogue drink bottle had staged a rebellion against our bed, thoroughly saturating our linen with its escaped contents. The local laundromat—that reliable saviour of travelling mishaps—offered mechanical solution where nature's drying power proved inadequate in the persistent coastal drizzle. Over lunch, we watched grey clouds scud across the bay, their movement mirroring our own westward progression.

Beyond Apollo Bay, the road executed dramatic pivot inland, abandoning ocean views for the ancient embrace of the Otway Ranges. This transition felt like entering another world entirely—from vast horizontal seascapes to vertical forest cathedrals, from salt-tinged winds to the earthy perfume of rain-soaked eucalyptus. Our destination lay at Aire River West, where forest would meet ocean once more, but first WikiCamps alerted us to an intriguing roadside possibility.

"Koala hotspot," Anth read from the app as we approached the marked location. "Worth a look."

What we discovered exceeded all expectations. Not one or two drowsy marsupials, but five koalas occupied the roadside eucalypts, their grey forms clearly visible against pale bark. In all our Australian travels, we had never encountered such a concentrated gathering of these typically solitary creatures. They regarded our excitement with characteristic indifference, continuing their leisurely consumption of gum leaves while we marvelled at this unexpected wildlife bonanza.

"Look, there's a baby!" Sal exclaimed, pointing to a smaller form clinging to its mother's back.

Our koala encounters continued as we progressed toward camp—another family's roadside photography session alerting us to yet another furry resident perfectly positioned for observation. This abundance felt like the Otways' welcoming gift, nature providing spectacular preview of the biodiversity these ancient forests harboured.

Aire River West camping ground greeted us with perfect solitude—not another soul claiming space in this coastal sanctuary where forest rivers meet ocean swells. The persistent wind and intermittent rain convinced Torrin to abandon hammock ambitions for another night, though he gazed longingly at the perfectly spaced trees that would have provided ideal suspension points.

"The hammock's calling, but common sense is winning," he admitted, arranging his bedding on the bus floor once more.

An exploratory wander through the deserted campground revealed this location's particular magic. Another koala dozed in a low fork, close enough to observe the rise and fall of its breathing. The nearby wetlands hosted an impressive congregation of water birds—herons standing sentinel in shallows, ducks creating ripple patterns across mirror-still pools, the occasional pelican gliding past with prehistoric grace. This convergence of ecosystems—forest, river, wetland, and ocean—created biodiversity rarely encountered in such accessible proximity.

As darkness fell, the ocean reasserted its presence through sound rather than sight. Waves crashed against nearby shores with rhythmic insistence, their percussion penetrating forest buffer to provide our nocturnal soundtrack. This audio connection to the sea, experienced from within forest shelter, created unique sensory experience—we were simultaneously embraced by trees and serenaded by ocean, occupying the magical margin where two great forces meet and merge.

Sleep came easily in this natural amphitheatre, our dreams populated by koalas and accompanied by waves—the Otways having revealed themselves as more than mere scenic interlude between coastal segments. This ancient forest, with its towering trees and abundant wildlife, represented its own complete ecosystem worthy of extended exploration rather than mere transit. Yet tomorrow would pull us onward, the Great Ocean Road's remaining wonders demanding their own attention, each section of this legendary route offering distinct personality and rewards for those willing to pause and properly observe.Read more