• Salma T

2023 Passport Chronicles

Embarking on an epic five-month adventure across multiple Spanish speaking lands to reset my cultural chakras! I’ll be collecting stamps, walking countless miles and creating lasting memories solo and with beloved travel companions. Baca lagi
  • Bariloche tales: mate, hikes and friends

    18 Nov–2 Dis 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Gettinge to Bariloche was an adventure in itself. Somehow, I was the unlucky passenger whose baggage had to be removed from the plane and searched before I could board. It felt dodgy and weird, but thankfully, nothing came of it except for a brief scare that I might miss my flight. A couple hours later, I was in lakeside bliss! The drive from the airport to my hostel was just a glimpse of how beautiful this place truly is.

    I lost track of how many days I spent at Indomito Hostel. It’s been an amazing stay, starting each morning with a hearty, healthy and delicious breakfast in the most beautiful setting! 🥣

    When I arrived, I met Augusto 🇦🇷, my dormmate, and the next day we met Mauri 🇦🇷 and his partner Sofia 🇲🇽 (a lovely couple living in 🇪🇸). They had rented a car and invited us to join them on the Chico Circuit, a 60 km route through stunning landscapes. Along the way, we stopped to try chipá (delicious baked cheese buns made with cassava flour 🤤) and drank lots of mate (a daily tradition in Argentina 🧉).

    I’ve the next 2 days, before he left, Augusto (Piti) taught me all about mate, from beginner tips to advanced techniques, and even put me to the test as the cebadora (the one who serves the mate) on a beautiful afternoon by a waterfall with Ina 🇦🇹. Luckily, I passed the test 😊

    By then, I’d also met Mike 🇲🇽, one of the volunteers at the hostel, and we bonded over our shared love of arepas and hiking. Mike made arepas almost daily and organised an off-the-beaten-path hike for a few of us, including Ina, Mari and Mery 🇪🇸, and a couple other hostel volunteers. We never found the track we were looking for or reached the summit, but the day spent bushbashing in the wilderness, with breathtaking views, is unforgettable!

    The days at Indomito blurred together as I met more people, enjoyed social activities (the volunteers loved to party), painted, journaled and explored the area.

    With Mike, the two Marys and Lucas (another hostel volunteer), we also ventured on an overnight hike to a Refugio on Lake Jacob. Many trails around Bariloche were still snow-covered this time of year, and while this one was no exception at the top, it didn’t disappoint! 🏔️

    By then, we’d also met Laura 🇳🇱 and Gio 🇧🇷, with whom we spent many enjoyable moments—chatting, sharing meals, eating all the franuí we could possibly find, dancing and having fun at the hostel and around town!

    There was a fair bit of drama at the hostel involving a few love triangles ❤️‍🔥, so the Merys and Laura decided to escape and go with me to El Bolsón for a few days of hiking. I only had two nights left in Bariloche when we returned, which were spent with these wonderful gals I hope to cross paths with again! 👯‍♀️👯‍♀️

    We danced and enjoyed an incredible group lunch on our last day, and the next morning set out on a drive to San Martín de los Andes via the 7 Lakes route, which, as often happens, didn’t quite go as planned!

    A song to remember: Ni Una Ni Dos 🪩
    Baca lagi

  • El Bolsón: where trekking meets bliss!

    26–30 Nov 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Sometimes all you need is a girls’ trip!

    I’d heard that El Bolsón had a mountain range where you could hike from hut to hut for days, so I had to see it for myself. Luckily it wasn’t difficult to convince three lovely gals to join me, making it an unforgettable adventure! 🛖

    We had just three nights on the trail so we decided to do a point-to-point hike 🗺️

    The first day starting from Doña Rosa was breathtaking, crossing glacier coloured rivers surrounded by so many yellow flowers in full bloom. However, most of the 15km trail to Hielo Azul was steep, winding through dense forests. It was literally a maze of fallen trees for hours so we were thrilled when we reached the hut in time for dinner and much-needed rest.

    Day two took us 11km starting with a tough river crossing, followed by a brutal uphill climb, gaining over 1,000 meters to reach Refugio Natación, which was closed due to snow. However, the snow-covered landscape was a stunning winter wonderland, and we couldn’t resist having a pitstop to indulge in some dulce de leche (a weird new obsession for me on this trip!). After a bit more of this snowy stretch, we had to tackle a steep and super tough descent surrounded by jaw dropping scenery before arriving at Cajón del Azul, a beautiful hut in a sheltered valley for a warm and welcoming stay. ❄️ 🔥

    Cajón del Azul felt like home, with its cozy fire oven and baked goods. It was also where we discovered pasta flora—another foodie favorite from Argentina! We had so many over the two days and told everyone we met about them, earning the owner many new customers. They were so pleased that they showed us how to make it and even shared the recipe! 🧑‍🍳

    Our third day began with a beautiful walk along a canyon, followed by a gradual climb through lush, quiet forests before reaching Casa de Campo, our final hut. This place was magical, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, greenery and farm animals. Freshly made doughnuts with dulce de leche, mate, a communal dinner, spontaneous yoga and guitar music made it a perfect last night. We even experienced musical tarot cards and shared so many laughs and tales with the other hikers! 🧘🏻‍♀️

    On our last day, the trail from Casa de Campo to Wharton was a gradual downhill for the most part, leading us back through Cajón del Azul for more mate and pasta flora. To our surprise, the end of the trail had a brewery in the most gorgeous setting—a perfect way to end the trip. 🍻 🍻

    There were also plenty of bloopers along the way, the funniest being Maria’s attempt to toss her waist bag across a river not once, but twice! The bag fell straight into the moving water on the 2nd attempt but luckily, she was quick enough to jump in onto a rock and retrieve it. We were all on the other side watching it all as if in slow motion. We also ended up hitchhiking our way back to El Bolsón from Wharton, meeting lovely locals!

    There were more videos and photos we didn’t ended up getting because Mery lost her phone a couple of weeks later 😅
    But this is a place I’m certain I’d like to return to someday!
    Baca lagi

  • 7 lagos hasta San Martin de los Andes

    2–8 Dis 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The 190km road trip from Bariloche to San Martín de los Andes along the Seven Lakes Route has to be one of Argentina’s most scenic drives?

    But the start wasn’t quite as planned! It was supposed to be the four of us gals, plus Gio, but the Marias had partied a bit too hard the night before and weren’t in any shape for a road trip. Over breakfast, as we tried to figure out who could drive the manual car we’d rented (a bit of a challenge since only Laura could drive), we met Brian 🇦🇷, a fellow traveler who’d arrived at the hostel the day before. Somehow, we convinced him to join and drive too—specially since the plan was to drop me off in San Martín to meet up with Ado, so I wouldn’t be returning to Bariloche. And just like that, an hour later, we were off! Laura, Gio, Brian and me 🚙

    We headed north, following Lake Nahuel Huapi, and saw seven stunning lakes along the way: Correntoso, Espejo, Escondido, Villarino, Falkner, Machónico and Lácar.

    Along the route, we stopped at Villa La Angostura, a charming town where we stocked up on mate and grabbed some lunch—maybe a few too many empanadas for another perfect #LunchWithAView!

    The trip was a blast, full of photo stops, great music and perfect weather. The company was fantastic, with so much laughter along the way. We also got to know Brian well—he turned out to be one of the kindest, most generous people, and though he was new to solo travel, here he was one day into his trip on a spontaneous road trip with us! 🛣️

    We made one last quick stop before reaching San Martín, where, somehow, we ended up dancing Jerusalema on the side of the highway—just before the police drove by (luckily, not the dance police! 😅).

    Arriving in San Martín felt a bit like entering Queenstown, NZ, but with better food and way more affordable.

    Once there, we met up with Ado at the lodge we’d be staying at for the next few days and caught up with Matheus and another friend from Bariloche at a café before saying our goodbyes. ☕️

    I’d miss these beautiful people, but with my bestie by my side and a new place to explore, I was ready to make even more unforgettable memories!

    San Martin was pure bliss! Ado worked most days, but each evening we’d head out to explore the town and treat ourselves to good food.

    We’d only been there a couple of days when Maria joined us! We’d been trying to reconnect on our travels, and though it was only for three days, we were thrilled it worked out.

    The first day she arrived, the three of us went up to Arrayan. From there, we took in stunning views of San Martin before making our way back to town with the sunset. 🌅

    With Maria there, I finally had a hiking companion! So on her last day, we trekked to Mirador Bandurrias and La Islita, where we swam in the stunning (but freezing) lake and took in the warm Patagonian sun.👙

    That night, we celebrated with beers and tapas at a cool bar in town. It was Maria’s last night, so I met her again in the morning to say goodbye and the following day, Ado and I flew to Buenos Aires for more reunions and good times ahead. ✈️
    Baca lagi

  • BAires Part 1: besties, parks and books

    8–13 Dis 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    With some people, time just doesn’t seem to matter. The friendship is so strong that, no matter how long you go without seeing each other, you pick up right where you left off❣️

    The biggest change since my last visit to Ado and Luis in Buenos Aires was the addition of two furry friends. Leighton, who I hadn’t seen since 2014 and was now living in Argentina as well, had grown a big beard and unruly hair. Then there was Bruno, the most adorable four-legged companion, who “spoke” with a lisp and gave the best hugs (literally!). 🐕‍🦺

    With our close-knit group back together, there was so much to do.

    One highlight was the day the 4 of us spent in San Telmo, indulging in delicious market food (which reminded me of Madrid) and wandering through its colourful streets, full of life, music and all things Argentina! 🧉

    There was also a beautiful day at the Japanese Gardens with the original crew although we made sure to visit other parks too so Bruno was also included. Buenos Aires has so many parks and is incredibly flat—one of the best cities for walking! 🚶🏻‍♀️

    Ado and I, united by our love of books, also explored several libraries around Palermo, often leaving with more books than we could read! But most importantly, we would always find a quiet corner to sit, read and indulge in our favourite, timeless tradition: our beloved and never ending cafés conversados ☕️ 📚 🤓
    Baca lagi

  • BAires Part 2: foodies, amigos & friends

    13–18 Dis 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Just when you thought Buenos Aires couldn’t get any better, a few more days of foodie adventures, reunions with dear travel buddies and live music were in store!

    It all kicked off with a night out near Palermo to reunite with Mike and Gio, who had come from Bariloche to Buenos Aires. I was so happy to see them again!

    To top it off, I finally made it to La Sanguchería (aka “La Sangu”) to indulge in Luis’ specialty subs. He’d opened his food venture about a year ago, and it was no surprise that his subs were earning endless 5-star reviews. Yum! Ado and I shared two different ones since there were so many to try! 😋

    You’d think we’d take a break from indulging, but that only lasted until the next evening when Ado and I hit Avenida Corrientes—a vibrant street full of theatres, bookstores, pizzerias, and nightlife.

    You’d think we’d take a break from indulging but that lasted us only till the next evening when Ado and I went to the famous Avenida Corrientes, a vibrant street known for its endless number of theatres, bookstores, pizzerias and nightlife!

    Ado had already planned a night out to see Palabra Plena, a reflective monologue by renowned Argentine psychoanalyst Gabriel Rolón, where he explores themes of language, human emotion and authenticity through a theatrical clinical case. It was captivating—so much so that I bought his latest book to be my final read of the year 🎭 📕

    But before the theatre, we grabbed a slice at Guerrín, a 90-year-old pizzeria famous for its traditional Argentinian pizzas, followed by pistachio gelato at Cadore—yum and yum! 🍕🍨

    The next day, we headed to La Plata to see the legendary Fito Páez. Ado and I had seen him nearly 15 years ago in Caracas, then again virtually during the pandemic, and now once more on this trip! It was incredible, but before heading to the stadium, we stopped for lunch at Argentina’s first focacceria. Yum again! We had a lovely meal discussing some of our favorite Spanish words like sobremesa. The 2-hour bus ride there and the even longer Uber ride back were totally worth it! 🎤

    After all that, we finally had a rest day before spending a whole day making hallacas -the beloved Venezuelan Christmas tradition- with some delicious Argentinian wine! 🫔 🍷

    And this was not even close to the end of the food bonanza! I knew they had more in store ☺️
    Baca lagi

  • Buenos 40!

    18–21 Dis 2023, Argentina ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Long story short, it was indeed a buenos 4️⃣0️⃣‼️

    To kick off my birthday celebrations, we decided to check out La Bomba del Tiempo, an incredible percussion-driven live music performance, where we could get our boogie on in an age-appropriate fashion—haha! And to make it even more special, Laura had also made her way to Buenos Aires, so along with Mike, Gio, and my lifelong besties, we all went together. What more could a girl ask for, right? 💃🏻

    Well… the show exceeded all our expectations and the night didn’t end there. Afterwards, we ended up at Charlie Hops, where after a couple beers, the clock struck midnight, marking the start of an unforgettable celebration full of laughter, love and plenty of surprises! The bar even gifted me one of their glasses and when the night finally had to end, we grabbed some delicious kebabs and called it a night 🎉🍺

    In the morning, I woke up to the most wonderful surprise: a box full of freshly made Venezuelan foodie favourites, including cachitos and chicha, delivered right to our door! Yuuuummm! Honestly, my birthday could’ve ended there, and I would’ve been happy 💛💙❤️

    But Ado had other plans and kept me guessing. When we went to the post office later that day, I had no idea we were picking up an envelope that Nath had sent, filled with the most beautiful wishes and memories! We were at a library enjoying coffee when Ado said she had a surprise for me. Nath always manages to surprise me no matter where in the world I am and once again, my birthday could’ve ended right there, but it didn’t❣️🥰

    The ultimate celebration came later in the evening, with a small gathering at Ado’s place. We had cachapas for dinner made by Luis, red velvet cake with Franui made by Leigton, great wine, hugs from Bruno, intro to charades for Jacki and a journey through old music hits in Spanish, complete with some seriously bad “singing”! All orchestrated by one of the best friends anyone could ask for 🎂 🌽 🎤

    The official birthday celebrations ended that night, but the fun continued with a BBQ the next day with the Bariloche crew. Yum again! And a surprise pasta flora birthday cake at a nearby park. How beautiful are these people, some of whom I’d only just met a few weeks ago!? 🥧

    I will be forever thankful for all these friends, from near and far, who have entered my life at different times and turned my 40th into a birthday I’ll never forget!
    Baca lagi

  • Goodbye, BAires—Hello, border control

    21–22 Dis 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    My last day in Buenos Aires turned out to be quite memorable! Ado and I had planned to meet up with Laura at a park, which was closed, so we ended up at our favourite bookshop instead and spent the morning enjoying tea and chatting about books… pure bliss for a trio of book lovers 📚🤓

    By lunchtime, we strolled through Palermo, enjoying the colourful neighbourhood shops, on our way to La Sanguchería. We had to go back so Laura and Mike could try the subs, and then it was time to say goodbye to these new happy customers 🤗

    After that, Ado accompanied me to the airport, and the real adventure began when I wasn’t allowed to board my flight to Santiago. Turns out, connecting and transferring flights are not the same thing, and once again, I didn’t have the right visa to connect flights through Chile. How does this happen again!?!? 🆘

    The ordeal dragged on for a couple of very stressful hours until I eventually canceled my rewards flight from Santiago and bought a new ticket for later that evening; this time with one airline covering the entire journey and no visa required. Thankfully, it didn’t break the bank, but Chile officially earned a spot on my “avoid at all costs” travel list since then‼️🙅🏻‍♀️

    In a surprising twist, the universe had my back as my new flight came with an upgrade: premium economy to Santiago and first class to Mexico City! I seriously travelled in style for what I paid, although if I’d known I was gonna be flying first class, I might’ve dressed a little differently 😅

    The delay also meant I got one last evening with my favourite people. We made homemade pizza, played board games and shared lots of laughs before the inevitable hugs and tears saying goodbye. I felt incredibly grateful for the memories I was taking with me from Argentina and the time spent with some of my closest friends❣️ but as I boarded my flight at 5am, all I could think of was sleeping! I got so lucky with such a cheap first class ticket (bed) to make this happen! ✨ 💤

    One more destination to go…
    Baca lagi

  • Mexico lindo y querido!

    22–24 Dis 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It only took one night in Mexico to realise I was in for a week of incredible food, stunning architecture and a deep dive into its rich history and culture. And I had the best tour guide, one of my dearest friends from Oz, a local who made sure I experienced it all! 👯‍♀️

    I arrived in the evening, so we went out for dinner and even Elda’s trained palate barely survived the unexpectedly super fiery aguachile we ordered! 🌶️🥵😅

    Later in the night, we ended up at Rayo, a rooftop bar where we immersed ourselves in a sensory experience of mezcal tastings before settling for a cocktails inspired by ‘Hecho en México’. Mine even had ocean foam on top and smelled like the sea!

    The next 2 days were filled with delicious food (including big breakfasts) and exploring the city on foot. Our first walking tour took us through Frida Kahlo’s colourful neighbourhood and vibrant markets, where I tried chapulines (aka crickets) for the first time. It was strange but a lot better than I expected and very very crunchy 🦗🫣

    I lost track of how many times I had chilaquiles (not enough yet!), but one of the standout food moments was discovering tlayudas, a sort of Mexican pizza made with a crispy corn base, piled high with all the best Latin toppings, including nopales. Seriously delish!! 🌵

    Later that evening, we met up with Elda’s cousins, one of her brothers and a some of their partners, for another immersive experience. This time, a journey through the world of Dreams, followed by a mission to find micheladas (or as I like to call them, the Mexican Bloody Mary). We failed to find a decent spot where we were but it was great to meet some of her family ahead of spending Christmas together!

    The next day’s walking tour took us through the historic city center, filled with incredible architecture and history. And next time, Café de Tacuba is a must! 🎸

    It was the perfect reintroduction to the city, but now it was time to head off and get ready to celebrate Christmas Eve! 🎄
    Baca lagi

  • Una Nochebuena to remember!

    24–25 Dis 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Christmas Eve with Elda’s family has been so special! 🎄

    The moment we walked into her grandma’s house, we were greeted by her grandma and many aunts, who were incredibly warm and welcoming. Since we were among the first to arrive, they made sure we had something to eat as dinner wouldn’t be until later in the evening. The flavours in her grandma’s cooking just reinforced my desire to visit Oaxaca someday. Seriously yummm!

    As the evening went on, more family members arrived, including Elda’s parents, who I was happy to finally meet. And so many other people to get to know!

    At one point, we were chatting about Mexican Christmas traditions, and all the aunties were proudly talking about the beautiful posadas that took place on their street. Posadas are a tradition leading up to Christmas, where people reenact Mary and Joseph’s search for shelter, singing from house to house until they are welcomed inside. When I mentioned I’d never experienced one, they immediately gathered a bunch of the family and took us outside to recreate it. I wasn’t quite prepared to be at the front of the group, or for the singing involved, but it was such a special and beautiful experience! 🚪

    Later, I found out there was a big family Secret Santa, something I hadn’t planned for! Thankfully, Elda had already taken care of a gift on my behalf (for her brother). And somehow, I managed to guess exactly what he wanted and it was a very generous gift! 🎁 😂

    The exchange was so lovely and everyone was incredibly thoughtful with their gifts. I was one of the cousins’ Secret Santa, and when I opened my present, I was shocked to find a gold necklace with a shell pendant and gorgeous green scallop shell earrings! How did he know about my Camino shell obsession!? Apparently, all Elda had mentioned in their family chat was that I wear gold and might prefer something small and light that is travel friendly. It seems the rest was just one of those happy coincidences! ✨

    Adding to all the fun was the huge star-shaped piñata that had been hanging in the patio all evening. Everyone took turns whacking it while singing dale, dale, dale, no pierdas el tino… until it finally burst open and everyone took to the floor to pick up the goodies, including me, because a girl can never have too many pairs of socks hahaha! 🪅 🧦 🍬

    The night ended with a big dinner, more chatting and laughing together. We were going to head out shortly after as the next day we’d be leaving for a three-day tour with Elda’s family and aunt. I left feeling so grateful for the gift of another nochebuena like the ones I used to look forward to every year back home❣️
    Baca lagi

  • The Magical Town of Cuetzalan ✨

    25–27 Dis 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    It’s hard to capture all the big and small moments that filled my heart over these three days travelling to Cuetzalan, one Mexico’s “Pueblos Mágicos” (magical towns). From the food to the nature, the group, the rich culture (and even a Temazcal), Elda’s family organised the perfect experience! 🇲🇽

    The group had an interesting mix of ages, mostly retirees. Among the younger ones were Elda, her brothers, a guy travelling with his mom and me. The organisers were worried “the young ones” might not enjoy it as much, but to everyone’s surprise, most of the group outsang and outdanced us and we had the most amazing time! (They definitely did not outpace or outdrink us, though 😅)

    We also saw and did so much in just three days! Highlights included the voladores of Cuetzalan (the flying dancers), the Temazcal (a traditional steam bath ceremony—intense, sweaty and cleansing), the ruins of Yohualichan, many beautiful waterfalls (with swims!), a night visit to the Cuetzalan cemetery that felt like it would never end, and a distillery stop for artisanal liquor tasting (where we may have drank and bought a few too many bottles!). There was also a karaoke night where everyone got involved and even included traditional Mexican dancing, so much fun! And of course—the mole. So much mole! 🍫🍋‍🟩😋🎤🪦🕺🏻🥵

    One moment I’ll never forget: Elda’s dad singing the most complicated karaoke song… Tequila! 🤣

    To top it all off, we all got personalised mugs as part of the tour. I usually collect mugs from every country I visit, but couldn’t carry the weight in my initial travels, so it solved my souvenir dilemma perfectly. A little reminder of this beautiful experience at the end of an amazing five-month journey! 💝
    Baca lagi

  • Taco-me home sweet home!

    30–31 Dis 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After our trip to Cuetzalan, we had one last night in Mexico City. Elda and her brother Emi took me out for dinner to Taquería La Modelo, such a kind gesture but I’m so glad I got to try these tacos before leaving because yum!! 🌮😋

    My final day was short, with just enough time to stop by the shops and pick up some Pulparindo and a few other Mexican goodies to bring home. Then it was time for heartfelt goodbyes and thank-yous to my new Mexican family before heading off to reunite with my actual family❣️

    A couple of flights and a day later, I landed in Sydney, where I met up with my mom at the airport as she was coming to stay with me for a while in Oz. During the train ride home, our original NYE plans fell through, but newy as usual never disappoints, and we ended up having a lovely night walking down to the foreshore to watch the fireworks. After that we walked back home to finally get some rest and get ready for a brand new year and a few more months of summer! ✈️ 🥰 🤗 🚊 ☀️ 🌊

    I’m so thankful for 2️⃣0️⃣2️⃣3️⃣, it’s been nothing short of amazing… a year I’ll never forget! 🎆 🎇
    Baca lagi

    Tamat perjalanan
    30 Disember 2023