Let’s bring Sauna into Africa

december 2019 - februari 2021
South Africa to Germany – at least a try. Meer informatie

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  • Alles weergeven (9)
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4x4, Kamperen, Vriendschap, Natuur, Fotografie, Zelfontdekking, Soloreizen, Vakantie, Wildernis, Wildlife
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  • Captain Michi's revenge

    1 april 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Getting chased by an evil motorcyclist but I just want to make clear that I am the freaking pirate here!

  • Wherever I may roam

    1 april 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    From lake Jipe I move west. My instinct calls for the savannah. Today's destination? Unclear. I just don't know! What should I make any decision for? I cannot cross any border nor do I have any certain plan for flying out to Germany. Actually, I don't even really care right now. The flights have ugly connections and/or are way too expensive. Here it's Paradise, there it's third world war (which China already won ;-). I wait for more details from the foreign office.

    So, in-between I try to find the true peace for my soul. Climbing Kili? Next time maybe. It results in pure stress with those guided tourist-bullshit-tours. In this country you are not allowed to do anything on your own! They catch you in every corner and want to squeeze money out of you. Even for shitting in the thorny bush you are obliged to pay a guide! They say, climbing Kili is 500-1000 USD and you have to pay a dude to carry your stuff. And what if I didn't want anybody to carry my dirty equipment??

    During these days I discover an improved way of travelling. Having even less of a plan than normally gives me more time for coffee stops, even time for decoration with carrot-pineapple cake (at Union Cafe in Moshi). It results in just 100-130 km per day instead of 200-400. And I tell you, 300 km here in the "wild" is already stress, rushing hectic with 12 h driving when having merely 13 h of daylight. Moshi is friendlier than expected but my car is being guarded by a friendly dude with a pump-action shotgun! I have to leave civilization. Fast!

    Anyway, this Kilimanjaro is a lie. Not to be seen anywhere. Thanks to OpenStreetMap I find some veeeery narrow, tiny, little paths through pretty farmland leading southwest around the hiding Kili. A meditational drive which gets even prettier once I enter the open pastures northeast of Mt. Meru. It's a hard cultural cut, now being dominated primarily by herding Masai whereas the region southwest of Kili was by "some mixed type of farmers" (sorry, don’t know all the different tribes with their habits yet). Today’s whole drive I unnoticedly climb around 1000 m and end up on 1500 m in the Mkuru eco camp, led by the local Masai community. The wonderful afternoon sunlight keeps me from progressing. I spend more time on top of my roof rack than behind the wheel. Finally some fresh air up here!
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  • "Keep well to the west"

    2 april 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Yeah! Via Longido up north near the Kenyan border I turn west, deeply into Maasai territory. With a detour of 20 km on dirt I deliver one hitch-hiking Maasai to the next village but this ends up in a never ending Maasai taxi because at each drop-off point there are waiting the next five guys for a lift somewhere else down the road :D After delivering the second warrior I stop this trend.

    Thanks for the detour I have to crawl through some awesome tiny paths which are usually used by motorbikes only (they’re mapped in OpenStreetMap!). The landscape gets wilder as I’m surrounded by acacia bushes and open grass patches. Surprisingly the cattle is joined by zebras and Thomson’s gazelles! Free-roaming wildlife, finally! This region here is one of the few last corridors for wildlife migrating north from Arusha National Park. I assume it intersects neatly with migration corridors coming from Serengeti and Ngorongoro areas. In all this adventure with wild paths my car gets a “natural tuning improvement” on the left side of my front bumper =)
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  • Waaahoooonderful!

    2 april 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Squeezing between Mt. Kitumbeine and old volcano Gelai I slowly descend into the East African Rift Valley where the Ngorongoro caldera builds up in front of me with the face of Ol Doinyo Lengai, the holy Maasai mountain! This active volcano is the world’s only producing natrocarbonatite lava. Don’t know what this means (Wikipedia knows) but it sounds pretty scientific and in some way I am part of it! :-P Grey soil is dominating the landscape due to the unique volcanic mineral structure. A small Maasai village pops up, surrounded by thorny branches as protection against lions and white invaders. The bushy vegetation vanishes and gives space to more of this thick, juicy grass and lower shrubs. Hazy hills – all having been small volcanos once – appear behind the next elevation and this is how I ride into the dusk. No human beings around for hours.

    I turned south by now, paralleling the caldera and the further I progress the more mysterious the scenery gets! Black dots appear in far distance on the endless grassscape. I come closer. Wildebeests! Zebras! Giraffes! Thomson’s gazelles! All around the place! Whaaaat the heck? Whoever told you that you have to enter Serengeti National Park to see some of the famous wildlife migration didn’t tell you that, obviously, some of these beasts will probably migrate out of the national park at one point. Here we are. I find a hideout for the night under an acacia tree between the gravel road and a dry river bed, just under Mt. Kerimasi. My inner self is pretty satisfied, let’s call it “the turn of the tide”.
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  • Destiny never sleeps ...

    4 april 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    ... and it always knows what’s good for you.
    At the village of Magara I find an informal community campsite near their small waterfall. No infrastructure at all, just some beautiful trees. Locals are bathing and washing in the river. Very calm atmosphere. The next morning I take my time doing some computer stuff when around noon an old, thin man appears out of the bush and – without saying any word – brings some firewood. He keeps bringing more and more as I sit there and while I start packing my things to leave I think “Oh no, I don’t need any firewood. Doesn’t he see that I’m about to leave?” I say goodbye and leave.

    Nobody charged me anything for the night so I decide to search for the village’s chairman to donate something. I wait for an hour and talk to some locals. Another hour later I finish my lunch. Another hour later this chairman appears. Another hour later we’re done. So, this Saturday’s planned episode on the road is no more because it approaches 4 pm already. I decide to stay another night.

    Back at the riverbed under those huge trees with the afternoon sun I grind some Kilimanjaro coffee beans and just enjoy. The old man appears again and continues bringing firewood while I fix some things around the car and skype home.

    In the evening I have a big pile of wood near my fireplace. The old man makes some gestures to start the fire and there we go. I give him my second chair. We are friends now. He builds the fire and I prepare our dinner. At 9 p.m. he lies down next to the fire and sleeps. I give him Wurstdaniel’s yellow Air Namibia blanket.

    At 5 a.m. it starts raining heavily and as I wake up two hours later, the old man is standing under my awning. Hmm. We have breakfast with a lot of coffee. After the rain I go for the road but still this place does not want me to leave! I get stuck on the steep, now muddy track back to the main road. Huge wet stones with massive wet roots are not easy to manage after the rain. Wahooooo. Luckily, with some inspection of the environment and some more tries I manage to reverse and succeed climbing the hill with a little more momentum.
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