Maine and Canadian coasts

August - September 2018
A 38-day adventure by Sea Fever & David Read more
  • 122footprints
  • 2countries
  • 38days
  • 281photos
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  • 1.2kmiles
  • Day 19

    On our way

    August 20, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    It’s very cold today!! 10kn wind, maybe barely 70 degrees on land. I’m wearing a sweatshirt and pants. You can see David is not bothered by the cold at all.

  • Day 19

    Rockland, ME

    August 20, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We arrived in Rockland Harbor a little while ago. We had a beautiful sail today, a close reach in 15-16kn winds, at times going almost 6-7 knots— not bad for dragging a dinghy. Sunny day. No sea mammals today, tho. We did see a couple of unusual birds but we think they are a type of gull (possibly a Bonaparte Gull). Somehow we just don’t get too excited about gulls. But I’m sure they deserve some recognition.

    The wind died (and I finally warmed up) once we came into the bay here. We will be here tonight and tomorrow night.

    No one has recommended Rockland so I don’t expect this to be a happening town, but we will be able to re-supply and hopefully David will find a Navionics dealer to beat up. Haha.

    Love hearing from all of you!! I think otherwise this could get very lonely!! And this is way better than sitting through a boring slide show, right?!?!
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  • Day 20

    Rockland ME

    August 21, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    We explored Rockland today, and loved it. It seems like a creative, energetic small city. Lots of art galleries, a great art museum, antiques, TWO independent bookstores!! And one of Collin’s college friends, Jack, lives here.

    David and I found a nice coffee place this morning complete with disgustingly large, delicious cinnamon rolls. David had to return to the boat to fix the septic (really bad job, so glad he knows how to do that) so I explored the bookstores, the Island Institute (connected to Allen Island where we stayed the night before last) and saw the art museum (while David was doing shower math, see entry below) and then we met at the Lighthouse Museum.

    The art museum has lots of Andrew Wyeth’s work, Winslow Homer, some Frank Benson, Fitz Hugh Lane, Frank Bellows, and at least one Prendergast. I didn’t have time to see everything but did the best I could. One of the Wyeth paintings referenced a building on Allen Island that we saw!

    The connection with Allen Island is from the owner, Betsy Wyeth (widow of Andrew). The Wyeths supported the Island Institute by establishing Allen Isl. as a campus for the Institute.

    The lighthouse museum was fascinating. We got to see close up how the many prisms (of the Fresnel lens) increased the light projected by the lighthouses. They also had models of the Nantucket, a restored lightship that we have often passed while sailing in Boston Harbor.

    It was wonderful to see Collin’s friend Jack tonight. He told us all about his work at the Island Institute, where they are trying to find ways for Maine island communities to be sustainable, economically and culturally.

    We may leave tomorrow and head to Isle Au Haut, but we are expecting rain and possibly fog. We will wait til morning to see what the day is like.
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  • Day 20

    Pay Showers

    August 21, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    This is a new wrinkle for us but it’s happened twice now, pay showers! The first time, you put in quarters not really knowing how much time you will get. First quarter gave me five mins, second two mins, third 3, fourth 4. As I was feeding the clock a man came in soaking wet, lathers up, wearing a towel, he looked at me and said: “ran out of quarters”. My first time I was able to complete my shower with time to spare; I’m sure it gave me more than indicated. But I was not going to let it go to waste, so enjoyed the extra time😊

    Today’s marina was different. The machine had eight slots for quarters so I put in eight quarters and pushed in the bar. Thinking I had ample time, per my first experience, I took my time, which was a mistake! When I was completely lathered up, the water stopped. No problem, I still had six quarters. Unfortunately it only takes eight at a time. I recalled the man from the earlier experience and had great empathy. Not to be deterred, and only with a small towel, I opted to finish at the sink. Nobody else was in the place, so I set about splashing water over me from the sink. That’s when another gentleman came in, took one look, turned and left. Go figure😂
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  • Day 21

    Leaving Rockland ME

    August 22, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Saw this majestic 93’ schooner, Heritage, coming out of North End Shipyard just now. This shipyard was started to try to rescue the old ships, and it has worked. Maine has the largest collection of windjammers/schooners in the world.

    We are heading to Vinal Haven instead of Isle Au Haut. About 10 miles, should take 2-3 hours and we should have at least 1 mile of visibility.
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  • Day 21

    Perry's Creek

    August 22, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    It did rain during our voyage today, most of time just lightly. Once we got into the Fox Islands Thoroughfare, however, the rain started to get more . . . Well, wet, frankly. Anxious to get out of the rain, we ducked into Perry Creek just as the rain seemed to have stopped. We grabbed a mooring, lost it, then grabbed another (thanks to directions from a helpful gentleman nearby), and sighed in relief. As we stood under the Bimini (canopy), the skies opened up and it started raining cats and dogs!! We scurried below and changed out of our wet clothes. Once the rain stopped a couple of hours later, we realized that we had found a beautiful, serene cove.Read more

  • Day 22

    Northeast Harbor, Mt. Desert Isl., ME

    August 23, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Today we said good bye to our new friend, John McLeod, from Perry Creek. He gave us invaluable advice about traveling to Canada, plus he had a lovely Scottish brogue.

    It was a beautiful day after yesterday’s rain. It was still cloudy and humid, but not bad. There was no wind til afternoon (typical) so we motored, but once we got to Jericho Bay the wind was close to 10 knots so David put the sails up. We had a great sail for 2 hours, with the wind getting up to 13-14 knots. As we were slowing down from our turn into York Narrows, we turned the motor on, but could tell immediately that something was wrong.

    We had snagged a lobster pot. I have to say, those pots have been everywhere, with barely enough room to bring a boat between them. We had been watching them like hawks because we know the trouble they can cause if they get hooked on a keel or a motor. Somehow, just as we were turning, one got underneath the boat, and when we turned the engine on, its line immediately wrapped around the propeller. We stopped the engine, trying to figure out what was wrong. David knew exactly what to do— leave the engine off, take the sails down, and get the anchor down to give us time to figure out the problem so we wouldn’t end up on the nearby rocks or colliding with another boat in the channel.

    Once we figured it out, David called the US Coast Guard to give a “securite” notice, which is what a boater needs to do when he is obstructing a channel (you give a “mayday” only if there is a threat to life). After that, David jumped in and swam under the boat with a knife to cut the line of the lobster pot. It took him about 15-20 minutes to get it. It had been wrapped around several times, and the lobster pot itself was hanging off the prop, so the line was very tight.

    Once he got it, he climbed back on the boat, called the USCG to cancel the securite, raised the anchor, and off we went.

    No, in answer to your questions, there were no lobsters in the pot.

    We didn’t put the sails back up, because we were a little stressed from watching for the pots. Once we got into Northeast Harbor, about 2 hours later, we settled in and started making dinner. David cooked on his new boat grill. While we were waiting for the burgers to cook, there was an annoying squeak from somewhere around the mast, so I went up to see where it was coming from. It seemed to be from the mast, especially from where the boom connected with the mast. Wait a minute, why is the boom crooked? Why does that pin look like it is falling out? I made David come look, and yes, the pin that holds the boom to the mast had been sliding down out of its socket, which could have meant that the next time we raised the sails, the boom could have fallen off.

    To make a long story short, David fixed that too, while grilling the burgers!!

    I have to admit, I am still stressed from both of these mishaps. David is fine. I feel like I’m lucky to be married to Superman. He is thrilled that I made him organize his tools before we left.

    I keep thinking, “there but for the grace of God . . . “ and of all the prayers that are with us. I don’t know what is keeping us safe, but so far, so good.🙂
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  • Day 22

    Securite, Securite, Securite!!!

    August 23, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    (Lisa suggested I add my version of the lobster trap story because I could add more detail. Hope it’s not too repetitive.)

    Mariners will recognize the title as the hailing when you are in trouble but not quite at “mayday” status (life threatening). All was well as we left our most peaceful anchorage in Vinal Haven, at Perry’s Creek. We headed for North East Harbor, a long sail but we decided to try and make up some time in getting to Canada. We were motoring, as there was very little wind and we needed to average at least 5 kts to make our next anchorage.

    At this point I need to say a word about lobster traps: THERE ARE MORE FRICKEN LOBSTER TRAPS THAN THERE ARE LOBSTERS!!! I don’t know how any lobster could possibly escape getting caught! When you are motoring you have to be more vigilant than when sailing as the traps can be inducted into the prop and leave you hopelessly fouled, a situation you don’t want to be in! When siling, the prop is not spinning, so the line would not get wrapped up.

    As the wind began to build, we decided to hoist the sails and shut down the engine and relax a bit about the lobster pots. We got on a nice reach and I opened a cold one👍 The reach turned into a run, and we got into a tight channel with heavy current, so it was time to fire up the engine to ensure we don’t get in trouble. I started the engine, put it in forward and immediately heard the awful rapping of a lobster pot wrapping around the prop. As we what been only sailing, I had not been paying much attention to the pots and it seems the money moment I decided to start the engine we were right on top of one😩 Not only did it induct into the prop but as we were just starting up, not running at speed, it jammed really well in between the prop and the hull and could not be dislodged. We realized immediately we were in a pickle and knew we had to first stop the boat from drifting into to nearby rocks, pull in the sails, and figure out what to do next. We dropped the anchor pronto and as luck would have it, it held. That meant priority number one was taken care of, to stop the boat. Next, we pulled in the sails in record time👍 Oddly enough, though the anchor was holding, we stayed abeam to the wind and current as opposed to turning directly into it. I would discover shortly why. Once under reasonable control we notified the Coast Guard with a “Securite” call. The coast guard was quickly responsive and pulled all critical info from us: how many on board?; do all have life jackets?; confirmed lat/Lon position, and asked what we needed. The Coast Guard wanted to call SeaTow! We decided to dive under the boat and see if we could free up the prop. It was then I learned why we were abeam to the wind and current: the line was still attached to the string of traps so we had the stern held in place by the lobster traps and the bow by the anchor😩 It was a challenge to free it and the water was COLD (16c)!! After about 20 minutes in the water we got it cut free and dislodged the buoy from the prop, whew!

    A cautionary tale for others they may try this: I had tied a leatherman tool to my left wrist on about three feet of line so I wouldn’t lose it while working on the prop. On one of my dives I made some cuts and then had to go up for air. As I did, the tool got caught in the prop. Between my arm length and the line I was able to get my head up to one side of the boat, grab a breath and free the tool. I had been counting on the weight of the tool to keep it too low to get tangled, but it didn’t work that way!

    We got back underway and made it to North East Harbor without further incident but kept sharp eyes out for those darn traps!
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