Turtles and cowboys

June - October 2023
Cramming a few bucket list items into one trip, Everglades, Florida Keys, Galapogos, a cowboy ranch and fall in the USA. Read more
  • 53footprints
  • 3countries
  • 147days
  • 539photos
  • 40videos
  • 15.6kmiles
  • 14.3kmiles
  • 360miles
  • 27miles
  • Countdown starts

    May 13, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Two weeks left before we go on the family cruise for Dad's birthday and then with 1 day turnaround, I am leaving from Heathrow on 6th June, 6am.

    No, I am not ready yet! But barring unforeseen issues, I will be. Hahaha

    Trying to figure out how to stay in Nashville within budget. Photograph of giant turtle...I will be staying one night in a campsite which runs a turtle breeding program.....as long as they don't want to share the tent, we will get along great
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  • Mystery! eardrum ruptured in the night

    May 24, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    :-( got a perforated ear drum....God knows how. Good news, I can still fly. Less good news, I am not supposed to get it wet. Well someone has water based activities on the cruise planned and especially in Miami (prepaid snorkeling trip, for example). I know its not a big deal in the scheme of things (assuming it doesn't get infected!!) But I am a little bit disappointed.Read more

  • Day 2

    Yikes! Am at the airport. Go! Go! Go!

    June 6, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Having returned from a lovely family cruise (which of course included a car breakdown drama), I spent the same day on the phone to Latam Airlines trying to avoid a fine in the Galapogos. Non- residents can't fly on the cheap ticket I had purchased. None of the staff knew about the rule despite it being on their Spanish website but not on the UK version. About 6 hours later, matter resolved with me being about £100 down rather than the USD 300 plus tax which I was facing.
    Day before leaving, I decided to pack and I don't travel light. My defence is in 5 months, I have different weathers and activities to prepare for. Day of travel, strangely calm... then I remembered it was thanks to a Diazepam :-)

    Phil and Dad generously and lovingly brought me to the airport. The car made another funny noise, and what at first appeared to be a flat tyre, was in fact, bits of the car falling off. Anyhow, I was delivered to a very empty Terminal 2 Heathrow and actually rechecked my ticket in case I was meant to be at Gatwick!

    £5 now to drop someone off by car. That's so many kinds of rip off, I don't even know where to start. Ho hum!

    So, as I wait the 3 hours before check-in, I am finally able to feel tired, calm, nervous, excited and overwhelmed all at once. Not even for the next five months, just for the next 5 !!

    Yikes!
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  • Day 3

    The Eagle has Landed

    June 7, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    I am finally here, at the Everglades National Park!!! Been on my bucket list since watching Miami Vice in the 80s, and before I even knew what a bucket list was.

    The journey from Ivybridge to Heathrow to Lisbon to Miami to Homestead took a long time and I am shattered. Random occurrences were the man dressed in full Jedi Knight gear plus full length light sabre on the plane; Lisbon Airport was chaotic and unpleasant; Miami public transport staff assisted me by shouting and getting me to buy the wrong (more expensive) ticket; being picked up by one-eyed Mexican Uber driver who was as sweet as he was scary looking.... and my strange Airbnb host who was lying in a darkened bedroom with the door open when I arrived. I had let myself in as per his instructions because he wasn't meant to be there.

    Today I collected a hire car, which is from an individual named Miguel, through a company called Turo. Basically, the Airbnb of cars. I wasn't really sure what the car would be like and even less sure of my driving on the other side of the road.

    I went to the supermarket to buy some food supplies and was amazed at high their food prices are.... makes Waitrose look like Lidl. £5.50 for a bag of Doritos, £3 can of tuna, £2 small can of sweetcorn etc

    I am going into the National Park proper now so will be out of phone reception for 2 days.

    And I can't shift a headache which I am pretty sure is tea withdrawal symptoms!
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  • Day 3

    Everglades National Park

    June 7, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌩️ 29 °C

    Phew, driving is OK as its been a quiet road to national park (as its out of season). I get to the park entrance visitor centre, pay my park entry, and from there, every American I meet days how brave I am to camp alone. If I wasn't scared before, I am now!

    I took a few detours to do easy mini hikes, and really started to get a feel for this tropical wilderness and climate. By which I mean, hot, sticky and plenty of mosquitoes :-)

    The eco-tents are for glamping....except out of season (now) they are empty. I did know this and that I would be sleeping on the floor. I think my 50 year old body wishes I had thought it through more :-)

    All the National Park staff are so friendly, and cheerful and passionate. I was advised 7pm is a good time to see the crocs at the marina, and I did.

    We had 2 major lightening storms through the night. The rigid ecotent was completely dry and with a total mesh window, I had a very good viewpoint and waking up to the view of Florida Bay is something else.

    I did a Backcountry boat tour today, and genuinely felt happy, and grateful and lucky to be here. The captain and guide were entertaining and knowledgeable and we saw a family of manatees, hanging around the doc as we returned.
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  • Day 4

    Manatees

    June 8, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    For anyone, like me, who didn't know what a manatee looks like. They are at this spot, drinking freshwater out of an overflow pipe just beneath the pier.

  • Day 5

    Everglades endings

    June 9, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    I said goodbye to the Everglades National Park but not before another abandoned hike and the mother of all storms nearly flooded my eco-tent. That's a slight exageration but the wooden floors inside were all puddled. I awoke to watch the sunrise, and listen to the change over shift of nocturnal to daytime animals.

    I drove to another Everglades protected area to do a airboat trip through the sawgrass. It didn't disappoint; nice company, passionate guide, 4 American alligators came to say hello and gorgeous lotus flowers. Actually there were a surprising number of flowers. I have a great video but having trouble to upload. It's of Lola the alligator getting close enough to make me squirm.

    I decided I needed some petrol so got to a petrol station, and walked around to see how it worked. I walked into the shop, got bamboozled by DIY coffee and hot dogs, and left too embarrased to buy petrol (no one could understand my b accent as they were all Mexican). So, I stopped at the next station, and had to ask for assistance to open the petrol cap cover. With my idiot credentials validated, I proceeded to my next stop.
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  • Day 5

    Florida part 2

    June 9, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Florida part 2 starts with Biscayne Bay National Park for some kayaking. The water was a fabulous temperature. More mangroves, some iguanas and a jolly good paddle. I had an amazing video to show you but upon review, it was entirely of my skin :-(

    I went to Hooseville Hostel, which had bad reviews due to long-stay local residents with drug and alcohol problems. I had a trouble free stay and it was quite quirky, with a cold water feature, carp pond, rabbits, pleasant outdoor area. The rooms were normal for a hostel and the 2 bathrooms for 60 residents was exceptionally clean. The kitchen was bare however as the usual pots and pans supplied in hostels kept going walkies. I meet a nice lady and we had a good old chat, the first person with whom I have had more than a fleeting exchange since I left UK.

    Today, I got me a Dunkin' Donuts breakfast and headed down south on US State Highway No. 1 to Florida Keys. I felt good, confident in the car, and excited to be here. I found Anne's Beach where the sea water was as warm as bathwater.... and so peaceful.

    I tucked in to a local speciality of Key Lime Pie and checked into my trailer park Airbnb accommodation. Once again, poor reviews so I am pleasantly surprised.

    And finishing the evening off with a sunset beach stroll.
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  • Day 7

    Goodbye Florida

    June 11, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    My last full day in USA started with a snorkeling tour out in the John Pwnnekamp Coral Reef State Park at 9am. As we rode for half an hour away from shore, I thought...mmmm maybe the water will be cold. But nope, maybe a couple of degrees cooler than yesterday's baby bathwater level. Whilst the coral itself wasn't brightly coloured, there was a great variety of fish. I estimate I saw about 30 as I stopped counting at 20, including barracuda and a sting ray.

    Being the only solo traveller was annoying as we were told not to go off on our own (understandable) but most of the others were splashing about scaring the fish away. Doh!

    I spent the afternoon at the beach and felt very pleased with my prescription-inserts into my mask as I could see and avoid the jelly fish that were bothering people and remembered how much I love the sea when I can see :-)

    I returned back to the Hooseville Hostel which isn't full so whilst in an 8 bed mixed dormitory, I actually have the room to myself. I returned my hire car, really smug that it didn't have a scratch on it. I returned to the hostel by bus. At the bus stop, a homeless man asked if he could sit next to me. Yes. His name is Maurice. We both noticed a broken box in the road and he went to investigate. It had clearly fallen off the back of a lorry...literally :-) or from a delivery van. A random collection of new kids toys, quality branded trainers, balls, boxing gloves, a wallet etc Maurice decided to rescue and rehome the items, planning what he could sell, and what he would give away. I feel sorry for the intended recipient of the box but, to be fair to Maurice, if he didn't take the stuff, someone else would have.

    Maurice's dilemma was as a homeless man, who only has a bike with no brakes, how can he carry his payload. I got roped in to contacting his brother to help and left assuring Maurice, that if indeed I ever lose my current (fictional) husband, I will contact him through his brother, to give him a shot. As I waved to him from the bus, he had clearly already forgotten me as he was fondling his booty.

    Didn't take photos snorkeling as I an too scared to use my waterproof phone pouch in case it isn't as good as it claims to be.

    The hostel exterior is really nice, like a holiday resort. I quite like the vibe too be honest but that may be because its empty :-)
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  • Day 9

    Welcome to Quito!

    June 13, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I had an over chatty plane companion but really I was just hoping my ride from the airport would definitely be there. And he was, a smiling Marcelo, who offered me marshmallows and water as a welcome gift

    I spoke to him in Spanish and there was a lot I couldn't express, but it was probably the longest conversation in Spanish I have had. And it tired me out!

    Marcelo was telling me this was a dangerous area as we pulled up to my hostel. Mmm. I got to my room, basic and cheap and grateful to put my stuff down. It was so so noisy with wooden floorboards, paper thin walls and the kitchen/living room right next to my bedroom. However, when they quietened down by midnight, it was then very quiet. And cold!!! After Florida 31-34°C , I wasn't prepared.

    In the morning, I experienced the strange elongation of time that I physically feel when I am in the Equator. I don't know what it is, but mornings pass gloriously slowly.

    I was a bit overwhelmed and apprehensive to go out, partly because of safety and partly because of Spanish. I put my phone in my zipped cardigan pocket which I wore, and had $20 cash in my pockets and around my waist belt. And a handbag with water and sunscreen. I walked out and my senses were assaulted with the traffic, the noise, the calls of street sellers, people talking to me and not understanding. I am in the historic centre which attracts tourists. I saw them with their phones and maps out.

    I bought some snacks from a supermarket (so I wouldn't have to speak Spanish) as I hadn't eaten since the plane. Eventually, I wanted to return to the hostel and couldn't find my way back. I realised I would have to use my phone for the map so I found a park where lots of people were relaxing, with phones, chatting. And I realised my phone was gone!

    I have been on Quito streets for less than an hour, not flaunting anything, and my phone was taken.

    All my 7000 photos of the last few years, all my travel plans, boarding pass apps, online banking - everything gone.

    I had to buy a new phone which has cost my entire Ecuador accommodation budget for a month.... But without my passwords, I can't get in to email, Facebook, banks, Samsung or Google account as they all send codes to my lost phone, or email I can't access. I can't even redownload the banking apps from abroad.

    Please God hope the thief doesn't spend money on some apps which have automatic payment set up, like Amazon.

    I am feeling particularly stressed about what the thief could do and how I am going to manage going forward.

    So yes, welcome to bloody Quito!
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