Funemployment- Cuba

October 2017
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List of countries

  • Cuba
  • United States
Categories
Culture, Family, Sightseeing
  • 16.5kkilometers traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight16.5kkilometers
  • Walking-kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
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  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
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  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 36footprints
  • 10days
  • 313photos
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  • Visit to Organic Farm

    October 10, 2017 in Cuba

    That evening, we were driven to dinner at a farm nearby. In the early 1990s, food and other necessities became even more scarce in Cuba after the collapse of the Soviet Union. The Cuban economy was heavily reliant on sugar at the time, and the Soviet Union was its main market and also its main benefactor for essential goods that weren’t produced locally. With the collapse of the USSR, farmers didn’t even have fertilizer. This farm pioneered organic cultivation techniques that didn’t require fertilizer, and then taught other farmers these techniques. The farm has since grown and it now has a restaurant at which we dined. The views of the valley below were spectacular as we ate and watched the sunset behind the limestone mountains.

    These couple of days were an eye opener because of the insight I got into peoples’ lives in Cuba. If I had my druthers, I would have stayed at least one extra day and rented an e-bike to explore the surrounding area on my own. It is heartening to see entrepreneurship of various sorts - workers on their own accounts - alive and well. I hope that with tourism booming, more can partake. Apparently, Vinales may become the first town in Cuba to have in-home internet access because of the number of tourists visiting.

    The US State Department’s recent advice to avoid travel to Cuba - which appears to be based on a sonic threat of unknown origin targeting specific locations - doesn’t appear to me to be a threat that would impact the average American visitor, but, unfortunately, it sounds as if there has been a rise in cancellations. This doesn’t bode well for all the people who are trying to better themselves economically. One can only wonder who is behind this perceived hazard and what has happened behind the scenes to escalate this issue, but, ultimately, it is the workers on their own account who suffer most.

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  • Australia, Cuba

    October 11, 2017 in Cuba

    Today was a long travel day from Vinales to Cienfuegos. After bidding farewell to our host Sisa and giving Sophia one last pet, we headed out of Vinales at 8am. Our route took us back east towards the outskirts of Havana, and then southeast. Our stop for lunch was at another family run restaurant, this time at the 56km marker. The fried chicken was phenomenal. What was odd about this restaurant was that it had a table displaying various toiletries. The toiletries were sealed with cling wrap, and most of them looked imported. There were hefty price tags on them. Apparently, importing toiletries and reselling them at a significant markup is a thriving business for some workers on their own account.

    After lunch, we drove for a bit before making a rest stop in a town named Australia. Apparently, the Cuban government named sugar producing areas after countries that produced sugar.

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  • Playa Giron & Museo Giron

    October 11, 2017 in Cuba

    After that break, we headed towards Playa Giron, also known as the Bay of Pigs. During this portion of the drive, Tony showed us a short video by vox.com on the history of US-Cuba relations and a longer documentary on the same subject. Both documentaries were surprisingly neutral. Between them, they helped put a lot of the random snippets of information in my head into historical context, especially the exhibits I saw at the Museum of the Revolution in Havana.

    At the Bay of Pigs, we visited the Museo Giron, a museum focusing on the failed US invasion at that site. There was no English signage at this museum so poor Tony had to interpret everything. On the surface, the exhibits seemed quite factual and neutral; I'm not sure how much Tony filtered his interpretation of the exhibits for his spoken narrative. One exhibit took a lot of care to emphasize that the American prisoners of war were treated well. According to the film we watched earlier on, only exiled Cuban Americans participated in the invasion, and it was quashed within 72 hours. The captured prisoners of war were returned to the US in exchange for baby food and medicine, yet another indication of how economic isolation can negatively impact ordinary people.

    I authored an Atlas Obscura entry on the Museo Giron: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/museo-giron

    We had a swim at the nearby beach after viewing the museum. The beach was rocky, but the water was warm, shallow, and clear. Jeff stepped on a sea urchin and had to dig the spine out of the sole of his foot. After the swim, we headed onwards to Cienfuegos.

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  • Cienfuegos

    October 11, 2017 in Cuba ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We arrived in Cienfuegos in the late afternoon. At first glance, Cienfuegos seems like a somewhat run down former colonial backwater. There are colorful houses everywhere but for every one of those, there were many more that didn’t appear to be maintained well. Cienfuegos is different from other colonial towns in Cuba in that it was founded by the French. I don’t know much about differences in colonial architecture but I did note that the road along which the restaurant where we ate dinner that evening was very wide, with an elevated tree-lined pedestrian path in the center of the road - a definite departure from what I observed in other towns. I immediately noticed that there were iron grilles over most windows and doors - usually a bad sign. When asked, Tony clarified that Cienfuegos isn’t known for high crime, that the window grilles was part of the design of the buildings, and that we would see the same in Trinidad. In fact, crimes against tourists are rare because the penalties for such crimes are especially severe.

    Before checking in, we drove along the waterfront road to see an old mansion called the Palacio del Valle, which was done in a combination of European and Moorish styles. The waterfront looked very inviting and I would have liked to stroll along it if we had the time. We then checked in to our guesthouse before heading out to dinner. We are in the nicest accommodation of our trip so far; too bad we’re only staying in it one night.

    The guesthouse we are staying at is owned by a couple with a 17 year old son named Christian. Christian was our main liaison as he was the only one who spoke English. Christian helped us get settled in, and in the morning he came over with his parents to prepare breakfast. He turned out to be a very engaging kid and we really enjoyed chatting with him throughout the morning. He plans to forgo college to train as a tourist guide, as this is where there is money to be made. Knowing how little college-educated workers make in official state jobs, I can’t blame him for aspiring to become a worker on his own account. He supplemented English lessons from school by watching English films and reading in English. We found it hard to believe that he had his first one-on-one English conversation with a native speaker when his family opened their guesthouse barely 11 months ago. He followed our group as we walked around the central part of Cienfuegos in the morning so that he could observe Tony in action. We loved his ambition and attitude and we know that he’ll do well whatever path he chooses.

    During our walking tour, I noticed that the buildings in the town center had colonnades and wide shaded sidewalks. Perhaps this was the French influenced architecture. Tony wanted to take us to a fine arts museum but it was closed, so we pretty much just wandered around the town center and the town square. After the walking tour, we checked out and moved on to Trinidad.

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  • Arrival Into Trinidad & Walking Tour

    October 12, 2017 in Cuba

    I was excited to be on our way to Trinidad. Everyone I know who had been to Cuba raves about this town. The journey to Trinidad took about 1.5 hours. We arrived around 1pm and we had lunch on the terrace of a family home in town. The host family was very amused by my interest in their chairs which utilized cowhide for the seat and the back. To me, this was yet another example of human ingenuity and adaptation.

    After lunch, Tony took us to our guesthouse, where we were shown into a large, garish bright pink room. The room was very comfortable, and that made up for the pepto bismol decor.

    After a quick rest, we met Tony for a walk around Trinidad. This is a pretty town. It is more gentrified than Cienfuegos, and, like Vinales, quite a few houses double as guesthouses. Unlike Vinales, though, quite a few residences also double as restaurants or souvenir shops. During our walk along the cobblestoned streets, we visited craft stalls, climbed a bell tower at the Plaza Mayor, and visited a Santeria shrine. The Santeria shrine was the most interesting part of our afternoon. It was dedicated to Yemalla, a deity of the sea. Santeria is such a poorly understood religious practice, and I was glad I got a chance to attain at least a superficial understanding of it.

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  • Mission: Wee-Fee

    October 12, 2017 in Cuba

    When we departed Cienfuegos, little did we suspect that it would be our last reliable ( I used that term loosely) internet connection. As I had previously mentioned in my Havana blog, the overpriced sim cards we purchased were pretty much useless (mine worked better than Jeff's, and only in Havana and Vinales; Jeff's didn't download anything despite having a 3G connection). There isn't a meaningful data network in Cuba, and the best way to connect is to purchase CUC 1.50 cards that each buy you one hour of wifi (pronounced "wee-fee" in Cuba) at a hotspot.

    After the walking tour, we had some free time. Jeff and I headed to one of the two wifi hotspots in town - the one at Parque Central - to try and get online with our wifi cards. Jeff got online but I didn’t. There were quite a few wifi zombies at the hotspot, so I guess the hotspot was overloaded. The other wi-fi hotspot was at Plaza Mayor. Interestingly, neither Jeff nor I noticed that our access to news sites was curtailed whenever we got onto the wifi networks. But then, we weren't searching for articles on Cuba.

    After that frustrating experience, we headed out to dinner at a very good restaurant called San Jose. My seafood paella was extraordinary and it more than made up for the bland and underwhelming vegetable paella I ordered the night before at Cienfuegos. After dinner, four of us went to the wifi hotspot at Plaza Mayor, but none of us could get online, probably due to the sheer volume of people at the hotspot. We then made our way down to the Parque Central hotspot and we all got online with some effort, but with varying degrees of success as three of us got kicked off the wifi several times. I gave up after a while and amused myself by strolling around the square, looking at all the wifi zombies, and watching in amusement as a male dog kept harassing a female dog into mating. We named them Harvey and Ashley, after the headline of the day (as in Weinstein and Judd... too soon?). Ashley was having none of it. She was more interested in chasing cars and she ran after every car that passed the square. Poor Harvey didn't know whether to join in the car chasing fun or keep trying to seduce her.

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  • Parque Cubano National Park

    October 13, 2017 in Cuba

    The next day, we hiked for an hour out to a waterfall at Parque Cubano Natural Park. The payoff at the end of the hike was a 15 foot waterfall. We enjoyed swimming at the swimming hole at the waterfall. Jeff swam into a cave with stalagmites and stalactites and bats living in it. I gave that cave a miss because I'm not a strong enough swimmer to battle the currents coming from the waterfall. Jeff went off to look for places to jump. He disappeared for a while and caused Tony a bit of worry. Tony looked at me and saw I wasn't concerned, but he still went looking after Jeff.
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  • Playa Ancon

    October 13, 2017 in Cuba ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    After the hike, we had lunch in town and rendezvoused with Jeff Sr. and Peggy (they skipped the hike) to go to Playa Ancon. Playa Ancon is a very pretty white sand beach. The water was warm and clear. And, it was a good thing the water was clear, as I managed to check myself before nearly stepping on a stingray. It would not have been a good thing if I had stepped on it. Jeff tried to find snorkel gear to rent, but to no avail. He thought the water salinity was high because he usually sinks when trying to float, but not in this body of water.

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  • Dinner in Local Home

    October 13, 2017 in Cuba ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    After the beach, we went back to freshen up before heading out to dinner at a local house owned by an Australian woman and her Cuban husband. It was interesting to chat with Fiona, the Australian, to get her perspective on life in Cuba as an outsider. The night sky was clear, and I really enjoyed staring at the many stars in the sky. We don't get to see that many stars in Honolulu because of light pollution.

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  • Manaca Iznaga

    October 14, 2017 in Cuba

    Today was another long travel day. We bade farewell to Trinidad early in the morning. I felt sad to leave this vibrant, colorful town as I would have liked to explore it in more depth. Today was the final day of our tour, and we were to drive back to Havana, with two stops en route - The Valley of the Sugar Mills and Che Guevara's memorial in Santa Clara.

    The Valley of the Sugar Mills is located just east of Trinidad. There, we visited Manaca Iznaga plantation. The former plantation owner's house was relatively intact, as was a tower on the premises, and some former slave quarters (now used as residences). This tower was used to view the operations of the plantation, which was staffed by slaves. I thought of the tower as an evil panopticon - a vantage point from where those in power control the activities of the workers.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/manaca-igna…

    I know it is irrational, but I didn't want to pay CUC 2.00 to climb the tower because I didn't want to imagine myself in the shoes of a slaveowner surveying his property (both territorial and human). Throughout my stay in Cuba, I wondered about race relations among the people there. On the surface, it seems good; I saw people of different races mingling and there is obviously a fair amount of interracial marriage. But, with race, appearances usually deceive no matter where you are. I guess race relations have been at the back of my mind lately because of recent developments in the various countries I have lived in - the US with a political regime that seeks to divide rather than unite, Brexit being driven by xenophobia, and Singapore's own Presidential (S)Election where the government amended the constitution on the (paper thin) pretext of maintaining racial harmony.
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