Funemployment - Part I

juli - oktober 2017

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Rejsende Funemployment - Part I
- Vis rejse
- Tilføj til træskolisteFjern fra træskoliste
- Del
- Dag 55
- mandag den 11. september 2017 kl. 12.00
- ⛅ 32 °C
- Højde: 85 m
- Myanmar Fort Dufferin 21.992859, 96.09616921°59’34” N 96°5’46” E
Mandalay Palace
11. september 2017, Myanmar ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
After a quick freshening up, I set off on foot for the remainder of my day's sightseeing, which was to eat, go to Mandalay Palace, visit the world's largest book at Kuthodaw Pagoda, and then climb Mandalay Hill.

The Mandalay Palace moat was only two blocks from my hotel, and it was a welcome relief when I got to the wonderful, clutter free sidewalk fringing the moat. I was on the southwest corner; foreigners were only allowed to enter the palace via the east gate, and the other sights I was headed to were all on the northeast corner, so it was still a trek to get there.

At the southeast corner of the moat, I veered off a little to look for a restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet. I could not find the restaurant, and I ended up eating in a local teahouse.

Mandalay Palace is set on a very large compound. The military uses most of the compound, which is why the public can only access the palace, which is in the center, via the one road from the east gate. The palace itself wasn't terribly interesting - there were throne rooms, lots of little buildings, and a cool watch tower. The buildings were all very dark inside. It was the military that made the place interesting. We had to surrender an ID or passport to enter (locals did not seem to have this restriction) and we had to wear a pass. At the front gate was a big sign that said that the army will crush those who threaten the union. It isn't every day that you go to a tourist attraction with armed soldiers patrolling the area.

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Rejsende Funemployment - Part I
- Vis rejse
- Tilføj til træskolisteFjern fra træskoliste
- Del
- Dag 55
- mandag den 11. september 2017 kl. 14.30
- ☀️ 34 °C
- Højde: 93 m
- Myanmar Bugon 22.004627, 96.11280122°0’17” N 96°6’46” E
The World’s Largest Book
11. september 2017, Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C
Next up was Kuthodaw Pagoda. This one was interesting. It houses the world’s largest book - over 1,700 identical whitewashed stupas, each one containing a big stone tablet with teachings from the Buddha from one book. This was a fascinating place to explore, even though the stupas themselves were out of bounds. This temple was so large and all its stupas were so uniform that I entered through one place and exited through another, and I lost my bearings for my next stop, Mandalay Hill.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/world-s-lar…

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Rejsende Funemployment - Part I
- Vis rejse
- Tilføj til træskolisteFjern fra træskoliste
- Del
- Dag 55
- mandag den 11. september 2017 kl. 15.00
- ☀️ 33 °C
- Højde: 242 m
- Myanmar Aung Chan Thar 22.014626, 96.10746822°0’53” N 96°6’27” E
Mandalay Hill
11. september 2017, Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
Mandalay Hill overlooks Mandalay and the surrounding countryside. To get there, one must climb lots of steps. I was disoriented when I got out of Kuthodaw Pagoda. I walked around looking for a pair of lions that marks the start of the climb up the hill, but a local pointed me to some steps, so I just took off my shoes and climbed. En route, surprise surprise, here were yet more temples.

This was by far the nastiest barefoot walk I have made so far in Myanmar - there were lots of caterpillars crawling on the steps, and there was dog poop, bird poop and unidentifiable poop smeared by people who stepped on them. But, I was here to climb the hill and enjoy the views from the top, so I carried on and tried not to think about what I was stepping on.

The temples along this route weren't particularly noteworthy, and they got gaudier and gaudier. I am used to climbing steps, but it was slightly demoralizing as each time I thought I was at the top, I spied yet another flight of stairs. I knew I hit the top when I was asked to pay 1,000 kyat to view a spectacularly gaudy pagoda - think pink tiles juxtaposed with green ones. But, the views were great.

Coming down the hill, I realized I had deviated from my route up. I eventually came down to the (anatomically correct, it turns out) lions I was looking for to start my climb. At the lions, I procured another motorcycle taxi to take me to my hotel.

That evening, I had a really good briyani dinner at a makeshift street stall a few blocks from my hotel.

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Rejsende Funemployment - Part I
- Vis rejse
- Tilføj til træskolisteFjern fra træskoliste
- Del
- Dag 56
- tirsdag den 12. september 2017 kl. 10.00
- ☁️ 27 °C
- Højde: 81 m
- Myanmar Amarapura 21.897299, 96.05033121°53’50” N 96°3’1” E
Maha Gandayin Monastery
12. september 2017, Myanmar ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
There are, of course, downsides to traveling during the low/wet season. I contacted several travel agencies to ask if they were running their Ancient Cities tour, and none of them had the requisite minimum participants. I had no choice but to call the driver who drove me to my hotel from the dock. Fortunately, he was available and we negotiated a fee of about US$20 for the day.

Win Aung picked me up at my hotel in the morning. It was raining when he came, and I immediately knew I had made the right decision to hire a car and not a cheaper motorcycle taxi (I didn't fancy riding pillion that long anyway). The tour covers three ancient cities on the outskirts of Mandalay - Amarapura, Inwa, and Sagaing.

Our first stop was Maha Gandayin Monastery in Amarapura. The attraction here is that at 10.15am, all the monks will line up to get their main and last (yes, you read that right) meal of the day. After about 20 minutes of waiting, a bell was struck three times and hundreds of maroon robed monks started lining up and shuffling into the dining hall. It was quite a sight. I was, however, a little uncomfortable about being a spectator in a human zoo.

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Rejsende Funemployment - Part I
- Vis rejse
- Tilføj til træskolisteFjern fra træskoliste
- Del
- Dag 56
- tirsdag den 12. september 2017 kl. 11.00
- ☁️ 30 °C
- Højde: 230 m
- Myanmar Sagaing 21.911963, 95.99049421°54’43” N 95°59’26” E
U Min Thonze Pagoda
12. september 2017, Myanmar ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
Next up was Sagaing Hill. To get there, we crossed one of the two bridges over the Ayeyarwady which I saw as we were entering Mandalay by boat. Win Aung brought me to two sights at Sagaing Hill. Like Mandalay Hill, one can climb up Sagaing and access many temples via what appears to be a series of walkways. I could easily have spent half a day exploring this place.

Win Aung drove me to the top. The first site I visited required some uphill climbing up a covered walkway to U Min Thonze Pagoda, a fascinating temple with lots of Buddha identical statues in a curved row. I also climbed up to other temples beyond this one. The walk was a little treacherous because part of the walkway was inclined and it was on tiles, and these were slippery in the rain. The view from the top was great, though.

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Rejsende Funemployment - Part I
- Vis rejse
- Tilføj til træskolisteFjern fra træskoliste
- Del
- Dag 56
- tirsdag den 12. september 2017 kl. 11.15
- ☁️ 30 °C
- Højde: 96 m
- Myanmar Sagaing 21.90159, 95.98502521°54’6” N 95°59’6” E
Top of Sagaing Hill
12. september 2017, Myanmar ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
The second stop on Sagaing Hill was the Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda and a clock tower. Nothing out of the ordinary, but I still got good views, and I got to interact with a friendly kitty.

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Rejsende Funemployment - Part I
- Vis rejse
- Tilføj til træskolisteFjern fra træskoliste
- Del
- Dag 56
- tirsdag den 12. september 2017 kl. 12.30
- 🌧 31 °C
- Højde: 62 m
- Myanmar Ava Nandaw 21.838107, 95.98432421°50’17” N 95°59’4” E
Inwa
12. september 2017, Myanmar ⋅ 🌧 31 °C
Inwa was the next ancient city on the itinerary. This is where I should have done some research. I didn't know what Inwa was an island, and a waterlogged one at that, until Win Aung deposited me at a pier and told me to take a ferry across and hire a horse drawn cart. The ferry took me across the channel in a matter of minutes and deposited me at a very muddy dock strewn with horse poop. There, several persistent souvenir sellers came right at me. They were annoying. They even tried the "you buy later" trick on me which I wasn't going to fall for. These souvenir sellers were at every stop, shoving postcards in my face even before I could disembark from my horse cart.

My first priority was to get some lunch. After that, I got onto the horse cart.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/inwa

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Rejsende Funemployment - Part I
- Vis rejse
- Tilføj til træskolisteFjern fra træskoliste
- Del
- Dag 56
- tirsdag den 12. september 2017 kl. 06.30 UTC
- ☁️ 29 °C
- Højde: 86 m
- Myanmar Ava Nandaw 21.848169, 95.96829221°50’53” N 95°58’6” E
Bagaya Kyaung Monastery
12. september 2017, Myanmar ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
The first site on Inwa I visited was the Bagaya Kyaung Monastery, which is made of teak.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/inwa

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Rejsende Funemployment - Part I
- Vis rejse
- Tilføj til træskolisteFjern fra træskoliste
- Del
- Dag 56
- tirsdag den 12. september 2017 kl. 13.30
- ☁️ 29 °C
- Højde: 60 m
- Myanmar Ah Pyin San Yar 21.853889, 95.96991721°51’14” N 95°58’12” E
Yadana Hsimi Pagoda
12. september 2017, Myanmar ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
The second stop on Inwa was Yadana Hsimi Pagoda, which is a ruin made of brick. Here, I fell for a scam. A souvenir seller waved US$10 at me and said she needed kyat. I asked how much kyat she needed and she said 14,000. It wasn't until after I left that I realized she made about 700 kyat (40 cents) off this transaction. While I don't begrudge the 40 cents, I do dislike the disingenuousness. Other souvenir sellers tried the same trick with me and quoted even more outrageous exchange rates.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/inwa

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Rejsende Funemployment - Part I
- Vis rejse
- Tilføj til træskolisteFjern fra træskoliste
- Del
- Dag 56
- tirsdag den 12. september 2017 kl. 14.00
- 🌧 30 °C
- Højde: 68 m
- Myanmar Ava Nandaw 21.856204, 95.98064521°51’22” N 95°58’50” E
Nanmyint Tower
12. september 2017, Myanmar ⋅ 🌧 30 °C
The next site I visited at Inwa was Nanmyint Tower, which is a watch tower that is listing. Visitors are not allowed to climb the tower.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/inwa

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