Funemployment - Part I

July - October 2017
The Midlife Crisis Flashpacking Trip Read more

List of countries

  • Guam
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  • Myanmar
  • Australia
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  • Malaysia
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  • 64.3kkilometers traveled
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  • Flight63.1kkilometers
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  • Train116kilometers
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  • 149footprints
  • 75days
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  • Sule Pagoda

    September 5, 2017 in Myanmar ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    After Botahtaung, I wandered back towards the Sule Pagoda area where I had lunch and sorted out my travel to Bagan.

    After my travel plans had been settled, I went to Sule Pagoda. There, a guy claiming to be a student latched on to me and started explaining things. I groaned inwardly... this was probably an unofficial tour guide who will ask for money after showing me around, and he won't be upfront about it. Oh well, what the heck. Maybe I could learn something useful from him.

    As it turned out, I did learn a few things. At Buddhist temples in Thailand, I had always wondered about Buddhas labeled with the day of the week. I found out from my "guide" that there is a special shrine for the day of the week that you are born. He even had an app that told you which day of the week you were born on - mine turned out to be Wednesday. He then showed me how to pay respects to my Wednesday Buddha. He also showed me other parts of the pagoda and explained their history and significance. At the end of our 15 minutes, he asked a gratuity. I offered 5,000 kyat (about $3.50) and he accepted.

    After I parted ways with the "guide", I did another round in the pagoda and then returned to Maha Bandoola Park where I enjoyed observing the late afternoon crowds. Many people were glued to a soccer match being broadcast on a huge screen mounted on the nearby government building. At the park, one guy approached me to practice his English and I had a fine time learning about him and life in his village across the river. I headed back to the May Shan when raindrops began to fall, and I waited out the afternoon storm there.

    In the evening, I wandered out to find a vegetarian restaurant I saw earlier in the day. I noticed that the crowd at the park had grown and moved to the grounds in front of the government office, and that they were still glued to a soccer game (not sure if it was the same game). I tried to stay and see their reaction if a goal was scored, but no such luck. They remained quite sedate the entire time, compared to the crowds I saw in Colombia two years ago. I also wandered around the night markets before heading back to May Shan.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Burma/Yangon-Re…
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  • Yangon to Bagan

    September 6, 2017 in Myanmar ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Air KBZ K7222 | RGN/NYU
    Economy Class
    Aerospatiale ATR72-500 | XY-AJT
    ATD/0745 | ATA/0905

    ===============================================================

    I decided to depart Yangon on this day because I was put in touch with another UCLA MBA alumnus, Ahmar, who happened to be arriving in Bagan by overnight bus on this day. I purchased a flight on Air KBZ and made plans to meet Ahmar at Ostello Bello.Read more

  • Hosteling

    September 6, 2017 in Myanmar ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Ahmar told me he had booked at Ostello Bello Hostel in Bagan, and that it came highly recommended. When I set out in this trip, I had resolved to not stay in dorms because I am a light sleeper and I was wary about sharing rooms with partying twentysomethings. My past experiences with hostels over 20 years ago weren't too favorable - they were primarily crash pads for people who stumbled in at all hours. At my age, I value my sleep. However, I got good vibes from Ostello Bello's website, and so I decided to chance it and book one night with them. Part of my motivation was also to socialize, as weeks of solo travel was wearing me down. While I'm not normally an outgoing guy in my own home environment, I do love socializing with independent budget (and budget-ish, like myself) travelers as they're a different breed of people - by and large, they are adventurous, hardy, and, most important to me, curious about the world... basically the type of people I like to surround myself with.

    Ostello Bello turned out to be a great experience. I booked a four person dorm and was placed in a room with three other American guys (Ryan from San Jose, Tyson from Chicago, and Dakota from LA). In all, there were eight Americans in the hostel (the others were Ahmar, Justin and Danielle from Philadelphia, and Arin from DC). I had not even seen this many Americans so far this trip. Danielle from Canada also hung out with us.

    When I wasn't sightseeing, we hung out, ate meals together, and drank a lot. It felt so good to connect with people I could communicate easily with (i.e., I didn't have to speak s-l-o-w-l-y and repeat myself). It was the fix I needed. I came to realize that the American part of my identity had become culturally isolated on this trip. I had never felt this culturally isolated since my early days living in Bangkok. The Singaporean part of my identity has been well indulged during this trip, though!

    The other thing that surprised me about Ostello Bello was the demographics of the crowd there. There were only a handful of students and post-college gap year kids. While most of the guests were in their twenties, many of them had jobs and were on vacation, or were in-between jobs like me. Many of them could easily afford hotels, and I was surprised they chose to stay in hostels. I was by far the oldest guy there. I was pleased that I could blend in so easily with this crowd, and not just the Americans. I guess in a way I was a curiosity to some of them. A couple of people even said that they were inspired by me.

    I ended up staying two nights at Ostello Bello. As much as I enjoyed it, I did sleep badly. I checked in to a nearby hotel for my other two nights because I needed to catch up on my sleep, and because I could not sustain all that drinking. While I am now a convert to hosteling, I will still approach it with caution. I think the average hostelite traveling in Myanmar would be different from the type that goes to Thailand, for example, as Thailand is much cheaper and more geared towards a party crowd. Regardless, I resolved to balance hosteling with staying in hotels for the remainder of my time in Myanmar, so that I get to socialize with travelers but still have the alone time that I love (and that so many people misunderstand about me).

    My two post-hostel nights were at the Arthewka Hotel. I booked a $20/night budget room and got upgraded! I also had access to a pool which was most welcome as Bagan is hot.
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  • Mount Popa

    September 6, 2017 in Myanmar

    Ostello Bello made it very easy for its guests to see the sights around Bagan. One of the regular activities they organize are excursions to Mount Popa, a religious site about 1 hour 20 minutes outside of Bagan. On the day I arrived, I signed up for the afternoon trip. When departure time came, we were transported there in one car and one minivan. We had been pre-warned that there was a religious festival at Mt Popa that day and that it would be crowded. That didn’t faze me. In fact, I was excited at the prospect of seeing the festival in motion.

    On the road to Mt Popa, we witnessed some disturbing sights: hundreds of people lined up along the road begging for handouts. We could not figure out if this was related to the festival or if it was an everyday occurrence. I suspect and hope it is the former. Anyway, we saw vehicles ahead of us toss cash and goods out of their cars and motorcycles without even slowing down, and there was a mad scramble to retrieve those items, with some people running into oncoming traffic to get the goods. As far as we could tell, those vehicles were occupied by locals and not tourists. It is a miracle we didn't see anyone get hit. Our minivan driver did not know enough English to tell us what was happening. From my western-biased perspective, if this was about making merit, it is a seriously screwed up way of doing it.

    As we approached Mt Popa, it was clear that the place was going to be one big cluster. There were vehicles all over, and people and motorcycles were trying to squeeze past the cars in the jam. The driver of the car stopped and told everyone to make their way on foot. He told us to stay together and come back together, and gave no further instructions on where and when to meet. Gee, what could possibly go wrong? Fortunately, he did give one guy his phone number.

    Alighting from the vehicles, we walked to the base of Mt Popa on foot through the rain. We walked between the cars and roadside stalls, and squeezed past people and motorcycles. I wish I were eloquent enough to describe the atmosphere. It was a big mess. I was bewildered most of the time, but in the best possible way.

    Before long, we reached the first of many staircases that make up the 700+ steps to the top of Mt Popa. We had to remove our shoes and socks and cover our knees. The floor was wet and muddy, and there were monkeys all over. I dread to think about what I was stepping on with my bare feet. There were, of course, throngs of people climbing up and climbing down, so it was slow going. Along the way up, there were various shrines. At the top, there were more shrines and lots of golden stupas. I loved that we got to see Mt Popa as a living place of worship.

    It shouldn't come as any surprise that our group didn't stay intact during this trek. It was impossible to stay together. At the base of the steps, we gathered and waited for everyone to come down. We waited and waited, and finally all but two of us were down. We called the driver then and he came to get us. He was of course unhappy that two were missing (I actually heard him cuss "Oh My Buddha", which I found hilarious). After he and the minivan driver got us back safely to the two vehicles, he sent the minivan driver back to find the last two. Finally, after about an hour of waiting, we set off back to Ostello Bello.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sacred-mt-popa

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Burma/Mandalay-…
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  • Bagan - The Greatest Hits Tour

    September 7, 2017 in Myanmar ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    On my second day in Bagan, I joined the free tour of Bagan organized by the hostel. Setting off on a rented e-bike, the tour is led by a local guide who receives tips as payment. This was a "greatest hits" tour of Bagan as he pretty much led us to the major temples in the vicinity.

    I'm too cautious to make a good motorcyclist. But, riding an e-bike is the best way to explore Bagan. Rental is cheap at $4/day, and they even throw in free laundry (maximum 5 pieces). Normal pedal bikes were also available to rent, but who wants to do that in Bagan's heat? So, with Ahmar coaching me, I managed to get the hang of it. It isn't that hard, and the max speed isn't that fast either so I wasn't terribly nervous.

    Ahmar and I set off later than the main group. We missed the first stop (Dhamma Ya Za Ka), but we caught up with them at the second stop, Tha Mu Hti Pagoda. We could go up one level to a viewing patio with 360 degree views.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/bagan

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Burma/Mandalay-…
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  • Ananda Pahto

    September 7, 2017 in Myanmar ⋅ 🌧 30 °C

    Our guide brought us to our lunch spot at a vegetarian restaurant called The Moon Be Kind To Animals. Some of the hostelites grumbled. After lunch, we went to the nearby Ananda Pahto which featured an impressive interior with gold Buddha statues.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/bagan

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Burma/Mandalay-…
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  • An Uncomfortable Orphanage Visit

    September 7, 2017 in Myanmar ⋅ 🌧 32 °C

    I wasn't thrilled about this stop as I'm unsure about the ethics of orphanage tourism. The guide also mentioned that the children in the orphanage were from minority ethnic groups - that to me was a red flag as I kept wondering if these kids were orphaned due to ethnic violence, and if they were having their ethnic identity whitewashed by being trained as novice monks.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/bagan

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Burma/Mandalay-…
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  • Thatbinnyu Pagoda

    September 7, 2017 in Myanmar ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Our final stop on the Greatest Hits Tour was Thatbyinyu, which also featured a viewing platform.

    This tour gave me a good sense of the layout of the plain, and it gave me the confidence to venture out on my own the next couple of days to explore at my own pace.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/bagan

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Burma/Mandalay-…
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