• Siewch

Thailand | 2025

Getting reacquainted with Thailand, and my 17th & 18th layovers in Tokyo. Läs mer
  • Prang Sam Yot

    1 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Prang Sam Yot is one of the main historic sites in Lopburi. It features three prangs (one of which was under restoration), but its biggest claim to fame is that it is macaque central. When I visited this site in 1994, the whole area was full of monkeys. There is also a viral Covid-era video of two monkey tribes fighting over scarce food when tourists stopped coming with food.

    Since then, the local authorities have taken steps to manage the situation by sterilizing monkeys and relocating many of them to a nearby forest. There are also signs forbidding feeding of monkeys outside designated areas and times. As such, our visit here was relatively sedate, which, although disappointing, was a positive development for the health of both monkey and human populations.

    We approached the temple complex as it opened at 8.30am. We as arrived, we saw the monkeys coming down from a couple of abandoned buildings adjacent to the temple. When I saw this, I thought to myself that perhaps the monkeys have some sort of muscle memory about opening times and when tourists used to arrive with food. I also felt sad for the property owners who I assumed abandoned their properties when the monkey problem got out of hand.

    As I mentioned, the monkey situation was very sedate. Most of them hung out at the scaffolding in the restoration area, and we could only observe from afar. We returned at 10am for the feeding time to see some of them eating, but, again, from afar.
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  • Ban Wichayen

    1 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Ban Wichayen is a large compound that served as a residence for ambassadors calling on King Narai. While we were there, there was a group of official looking people presenting offerings as part of a ceremony.Läs mer

  • Wat Puen & Lukson Shrine

    1 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Wat Puen and Lukson Shrine shared a compound. Wat Puen featured an interesting tree with roots embedded in the ruin. Lukson Shrine is the city pillar shrine and it is a Chinese-style temple, which was a little surprising to me even with the obvious Chinese presence in Lopburi.

    We didn't spend much time at the Lukson Shrine because there was a groundskeeper who was trying to be hospitable, but he was a little too in our faces. He brought joss sticks to us, and also bottled water. I felt bad about not accepting his hospitality, but I wasn't looking for interaction at the time.
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  • Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat

    1 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Located across from the train station, Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat is a large complex featuring a mixture of prangs and viharns. We were very curious about a large hanging stone near the entrance, but unfortunately there was no information about what it was.Läs mer

  • Lopburi to Bangkok

    1 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Our explorations that morning didn't take long because one of the major archelogical sites - King Narai's residence, which also features an onsite museum - was closed that day. We returned to Noom Guesthouse, chilled a little, and then we checked out, ate lunch and hung out in the restaurant for a couple of hours until it was time to go to the train station.

    Our train to Bangkok took under three hours. As we rolled into the northern suburbs at Rangsit, torrential rain started pouring. We rolled into Bangkok's new Apiwat station around 5.30pm and from there we took the MRT to Silom station.

    After checking in to Urban House, I ordered a rideshare and took Jeff to surprise him with Sri Lankan food at VK Ceylon Kitchen located in an alley off Surawong Road. Traffic was bad because of the rain, and it took almost an hour to drive a little over a mile.

    Our experience at VK Ceylon Kitchen was a little odd. There was only one other patron (presumably Sri Lankan), and the first person who came out to take our order didn't seem to speak English or Thai. When Jeff asked for egg kottu and he pointed to the item on the menu, he repeated back "chicken". Yikes. Fortunately someone else came out to confirm our order. Regardless, we got our kottu fix.

    After dinner, we walked back in the rain. Along the way, we saw some remnants from Pride month which ended yesterday.
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  • Chinatown

    2 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    After enjoying lizards and kitties, we walked to Silom MRT station and made our way to Chinatown. Starting off at Hualamphong station, we first went to Odean Noodles where I had their famous crab noodles, after which we went to look for vegetarian food for Jeff at Lee Jae Vegan Restaurant. Located in an alleyway, Jeff had an amazing pad see iew here.

    After lunch, we went out for dessert at Talat Noi (see next entry) before returning and walking through the area to get to the Giant Swing. Most of that journey went through the Chinatown Walking Alley. There, Jeff tried to buy slippers but no shops had them in size 46!

    Chinatown isn't pretty and it doesn't feature much in terms of sights. But, the real attraction here are the lively streets and the great street food. When I lived here in the 1990s, it took a lot of effort to get here because of the traffic. I marvel at how easy it is to get here now with the subway in operation.
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  • Talat Noi

    2 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Talat Noi is a gentrifying neighborhood on the outskirts of Chinatown along the Chao Phraya River. It has traditionally been an area for car repairs and parts, and much of the area still has car parts shops with hipster coffee joints and street art interspersed among them.

    Quite fittingly, the outer boundary of Talat Noi features a statue of Optimus Prime inside a small traffic circle. I had read online that people bring offerings of engine oil to him, but sadly I saw no evidence of that while we were there. From there, we went to Hong Sieng Kong, a riverside eatery, for dessert, before looking for a virally famous old car marking the entrance to 32 Chocolate Bar, a cute little hot chocolate joint.

    After visiting Talat Noi, we made our way back to Chinatown proper and on to the Giant Swing.
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  • Squid Game 3 Interactive Display

    2 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Just before we set off on this trip, I saw videos of a Squid Game interactive display in the open space next to the Giant Swing. I can't get myself to watch Squid Game, but Jeff has followed the series, so from Chinatown we made a beeline for this display.

    When we got there at around 2.30pm, we explored the various games and looked at the giant statues with the jump rope. We researched and knew that the jump rope started at 4pm, so we made our way to the nearby Thipsamai for their famous pad thai, and then we made our way back for Jeff to queue for the jump rope game. I am glad to report that Jeff survived the jump rope challenge.
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  • Klong Taxi

    2 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    After the Squid Game display, we walked towards the klong taxi pier. Along the way, we walked through Fort Mahakon and into the grounds of Wat Saket, but we didn't go into the wat itself as we weren't appropriately dressed.

    Back when I lived in Bangkok, the klong taxi wasn't on the tourist radar yet, and it was the fastest way to get to Bangkok once you reached a pier. Getting to the piers, of course, involved battling traffic. Information in English on the klong taxi was scarce back in the day, but I hopped on and just went for the ride. The westbound boats went to familiar places, the eastbound ones less so. One one occasion, I hopped on an eastbound boat and went all the way east to what I now know is Wat Sriboonruang at Ramkamhaeng Soi 107. I loved seeing the klong communities en route, and I am glad to say my enjoyment hasn't diminished.
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  • A Night Out in Silom

    2 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We chilled for a couple of hours in our hotel before we ventured out for papaya salad dinner at Hai Som Tam on Soi Convent, followed by ice cream at Swensen's. We ended the night at a drag show in Stranger Bar on Silom Soi 4.Läs mer

  • Wat Pariwat

    3 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    I woke up feeling a little fatigued. This didn't come as a surprise as based on past experience I often hit a wall after around ten days on the road. We decided to explore for a few hours and then return to our room to rest.

    We ate breakfast at the local market near our hotel. Once full, our first stop of the day was Wat Pariwat. We walked about 1 km to Chong Nonsi BTS station to catch the BRT bus directly to Wat Pariwat. Unfortunately, the ticket booths there weren't open, the self-service machinese weren't working, and it would have eaten up all our remaining data to download an app to purchase tickets. So, we flagged down a taxi.

    Wat Pariwat is an unusual temple in that it features mosaic pop culture figures on its exterior. There are two wats in the center of the complex; the one with the pop culture figures is fully restored and open, while the other is undergoing restoration. Along the exterior, we spied Batman, Captain America, Superman, Popeye, Pinnochio. Inside the hall, I recognized a picture of Albert Einstein. Apart from the pop culture figures, there were also mosaics depicting more traditional Chinese, Indian, and Thai-influenced figurines. Apparently, the temple was designed this way to convey that Buddhism is an inclusive religion for all.

    In the ordination hall of an adjacent complex, there is apparently a tiny statue of David Beckham at the base of a Buddha statue. Unfortunately, that hall was closed.

    Overall, this was a fun first stop for us. My only regret is that I should have come prepared with a list of the pop culture icons I wanted to find in order to check them off. It was only while writing this entry, for example, that I learned that there is an image of Barack Obama taking a selfie.
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  • Wat Yannawa

    3 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    I learned about Wat Yannawa from Atlas Obscura. Located inside the complex is a building shaped like a Chinese junk. The main thing that amused us is that this “boat” is enclosed in a concrete pond with a few inches of water in it; I cannot decide if this added a touch of authenticity, or kitsch, or both. In comparison to Wat Pariwat, though, there wasn't much here to hold our interest. The temple grounds also featured a Chinese style temple. There was quite a bit of Vietnamese signage which was a little odd. We had a refreshing fruit smoothie at a stand in the temple grounds.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/wat-yannawa…

    As an added bonus, this temple was next to abandoned Sathorn Unique Tower, which was under construction to be a luxury condominium when the Asian Financial Crisis hit and construction was abandoned. The building has sat derelict since then, and nowadays it mostly functions as a giant advertisement.
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  • Chao Phraya River Boat

    3 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Wat Yannawa was right next to the Sathorn Pier, where we took a Chao Phraya Express Boat to Memorial Bridge. Along the way, we passed Hong Sieng Kong where we had dessert yesterday.

  • Chao Phraya Sky Park

    3 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Atlas Obscura billed the Chao Phraya Sky Park as Bangkok's answer to New York's High Line. Built on an bridge that has been abandoned since 1984, the Sky Park spans across the Chao Phraya River with great views of both Bangkok and Thonburi.

    Getting to the Sky Park took some effort and determination. Even though we were right under it when we disembarked from the Chao Phraya Express boat, the entance to the park was hidden behind some construction hoardings. The Sky Park itself offered great views of the river and both sides of the city, but the there was too much traffic noise. Regardless, this was a nice free activity for us.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/chao-phraya…
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  • Another Foray Into Chinatown

    3 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    After the Chao Phraya Sky Park, we walked a short distance over to Chinatown for some street food. Once there, we made a beeline for the alley housing Lee Jae Vegan where we both had their amazing pad see iew. While settling my bill, I had a short conversation with the matron of the establishment. She wanted to practice her Mandarin and I wanted to practice my Thai, so it was a somewhat bizarre conversation with her speaking in Mandarin and me responding in Thai!

    After that, we made our way to Ann Guay Tiew Gua Kai for gua kai, which is a hard to find dish made of crispy fried flat noodles found only in this part of Chinatown and pretty much nowhere else. I had mine with egg and preserved squid.

    After this second lunch, we made our way to Wat Mangkon station and back to our room for a little rest.

    I am so pleased that Chinatown is now to accessible with the subway. When I lived in Bangkok, I loved to come here for the lively streets and the food, but getting here was such a pain at that time due ot the traffic.
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  • Evening Explorations

    3 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    In the evening, we ventured out to Phed Mark at Ekkamai. Located next to the Eastern Bus Station, I again marveled at the ease of movement. I used to sit in a local bus for over two hours just to get here to connect to another bus to go east to Rayong or Koh Samet.

    Phed Mark is partially owned by American food blogger Mark Wiens, and it showcases one dish - pad kaprow, which is a dish stir fried with a protein, holy basil, and chillies. This dish or khai jeow (Thai omelette) - and not pad thai - would be what most Thais would name as their favorite comfort food. The name of the restaurant is a clever play of words. "Phed" means hot/spicy, and "Mark" could either refer to the owner's name, or be interpreted as "a lot" in Thai.

    Anyway, Jeff found his new favorite Thai dish here. Sadly, there is only one restaurant in Honolulu that does even a half decent facsimilie of this dish. I hope it'll be up to scratch for Jeff when we return.

    After dinner, we went to Siam Square hoping to track down a 3D LED display of Hanuman. However, it looks as if, the display has ended its run. We walked around the lively streets around Siam Square before turning in for the night.
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  • An Afternoon Meetup

    4 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    I did something intensely personal this morning and as of now I'm not sure I am willing to share it publicly.

    After that activity, we chilled for a while at our hotel before heading out to Central Embassy on Sukhumvit Road to meet with Jordan, who was one of Jeff's divers in Maryland in 2010-2012. We spent over two hours catching up with him. This was the first and only high end mall we visited on this trip, and Jeff felt like he had stepped into another world as it was so different from the street level sights we have seen.

    Our original plan for the evening had been to go to Rajadamnern Stadium to watch muay thai, but I was still feeling a little overwhelmed (in a good way) from my morning's activity, so I begged off and suggested we dine at Phed Mark again, which Jeff readily agreed to. We took the BTS to Ekkamai, ate our dinner, and then made our way back to Silom. I had thought about going to Asia Books after dinner, but it slipped my mind. Back when I lived in Bangkok, Asia Books was an oasis of calm where I would retreat to find English language publications.

    At Silom, we had ice cream at Swensen's again, and I purchased one last mango sticky rice to eat in our room. With that, we packed our bags and turned in because we have an early start tomorrow for our long journey home.
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  • Jeff Trains with the Thai National Team

    5 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    As I mentioned in my Grand Canyon Water Park entry, diving workouts leads to happy Jeff which in tun leads to smoother travels. With that in mind, I encouraged Jeff to reach out to his network to find contacts in the diving community in Thailand. Through this network, he met Nuch, who arranged for Jeff to have a workout with the Thailand National Team at Assumption University's campus.

    On Saturday morning, Nuch drove from her home in Lat Phrao to meet us at our hotel, and she then drove us to Assumption University which is located way out east near Suvarnabhumi Airport. I was surprised to find that it is housed in a sprawling university campus with European-style architecture.

    Jeff got to meet the national team and their coach (himself an Olympian) and work out with them. After the workout, Nuch took us out to lunch, and then she drove us to Suvarnabhumi Airport to catch the first of our three flights home.

    I cannot thank Nuch enough for going out of her way to make this a memorable day for us.
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  • Bangkok Suvarnabhumi to Kuala Lumpur

    5 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Malaysia Airlines MH783 | BKK/KUL
    Business Class
    Boeing 737-MAX8 | 9M-MVG
    ATD/1717 | ATA/2023
    Lounge: Miracle Lounge

    Nuch deposited us at Suvarnabhumi Airport about four hours before our flight. After clearing Fast Track, we made our way towards Malaysia Airlines' contracted lounge - Miracle Lounge - at the G gates. Along the way, we kept an eye out for other OneWorld lounges. We saw the Qatar and JAL lounges en route, but both were closed. I was aware there were multiple Miracle Lounges. At the first one we encountered, the staff told us to go to another lounge around the corner. At the second lounge, they told us to go to the "big one" up a little further.

    The lounge was pretty basic. So basic, in fact, that after I showered I had to put on my socks and shoes standing up because there was no chair to sit on. First world problems, I know.

    After a couple of hours in the lounge, we made our way to the F pier to board our flight to KUL.
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  • A Journey 30 Years in the Making

    5 juli, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    This trip is extra special in that I got to show Jeff this amazing city in more depth than our 2013 visit.

    I always feel a sense of melancholy whenever I depart Bangkok. 30 years since I lived here, I remain emotionally, mentally, and psychologically linked to this city. Bangkok is one of my happy places. Every time I come here, I feel recharged and grateful for how far I have come and how blessed I have been in life. I feel more grounded every time I come here. This time, I am leaving with a growing inner peace that my lifepath - even with the ups and downs over the last 30 years - is where it should be.

    It was in Bangkok where I was thrown in to the deep end and - as cliched as it may sound - forced to figure out who I am and my place in the world. Bangkok deepened the hunger within me to constantly put myself out of my comfort zone and learn and interact with new ideas and environments. My time in Bangkok gave me the confidence to reinvent myself, pursue new career paths, and be true to myself. Sure, I have made many missteps along the way, but I have learned from them, and I daresay it has made me a better person. For this, I owe this city a heartfelt khob khun krap. I can’t wait to return.
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  • Kuala Lumpur to Tokyo Narita

    5 juli, Malaysia ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Japan Airlines JL724 | KUL/NRT
    Business Class
    Boeing 767-300ER | JA607J
    ATD/2253 | ATA/0648+1
    Lounge: Platinum Lounge

    We arrived on MH783 at the main terminal and transferred to the Satellite Terminal via the newly reopened interterminal train. We had a couple of hours at the Platinum Lounge before boarding JL724.

    We arrived at Narita around 7am and got through immigration and customs quickly. Our bus to the Aeronautical Museum didn't depart until 9.09am, so we hung out at the arrivals hall for a while before we stored our bags in a locker and headed out to the bus stop.
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  • Narita Peace Pagoda

    6 juli, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    The bus ride from Narita Terminal 2 to the Aeronautical Museum took about 15 mins, and so we arrived 35 minutes before the museum's opening time. Our first stop of the day was the Narita Peace Pagoda next to the museum.

    The construction of Narita Airport has a chequered history, and it was marred by violent clashes between local farmers and the government. The Narita Peace Pagoda was built in 1969 to advocate for the peaceful (i.e., non-military) use of the airport and fair compensation for the local residents.

    The highlight of our time here was a friendly tuxedo kitty who sought our company as soon as we stepped foot on the property. The groundskeeper told us her name is Mimi.
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  • Museum of Aeronautical Sciences

    6 juli, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    After saying a reluctant goodbye to Mimi, we walked over to the Museum of Aeronautical Sciences. As we still had about ten minutes before opening time, we explored the aircraft displayed on the field outside the museum. The aircraft included both fixed wing and rotor aircraft which were used for military, scientific, and civilian purposes. Many of them were Japanese designed and, with the exception of the YS-11, I'd never even heard about most of these aircraft. As the museum was at the end of Runway 16R, we also saw many aircraft taking off.

    We entered the museum promptly at 10am. At that point, it occurred to me what I should check the bus schedules, and I realized that if we didn't take the 10.53am bus to Narita Station, we would have to wait until 12.28pm. Based on my past visit, I knew that 53 minutes was too little time to do the indoor display justice, but 2.5 hours was way too much. I decided to aim for the 10.53am bus so we could get to Narita Town for the main highlight of our layover. Regardless, in our brief time there, we got a good sense of Narita and its operations, and we enjoyed the displays, in particular those featuring the iconic Boeing 747. At the mock control tower on the top floor, my attention was drawn to a display I hadn't noticed on my prior visit: an interactive real time map of Narita Airport showing which flights were taxiing, taking off, and landing. We viewed and tracked several aircraft on the tarmac using that display.

    After our quick visit, we walked to the bus stop and caught the 10.53am bus to Narita Station.
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  • Narita Gion Part I

    6 juli, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    The bus ride to Narita Station took about 30 minutes, at which point we arrived to find Narita Town decked out to celebrate the Narita Gion Festival. By sheer dumb luck, our layover coincided with this festival. Over the years, I've had good luck with my layovers coinciding with Sanja Matsuri in 2014, Tori-no-ichi in 2018, and Tokyo Pride in 2023.

    Gion Festivals are run to appease the gods of pestilence and prevent outbreaks of epidemics. They have a long history in Japan, with the largest and most prominent one in Kyoto having run yearly since 869. The Narita Gion Festival, which lasts three days, dates back 300 years and is also seen as a welcoming of summer.

    From Narita Station, we wandered down the Omotesando, stopping to look at the various food and game stands along the way. Our first stop, not surprisingly, was for soft serve. While standing outside the shop eating our ice creams, a yamahoko, or ceremonial float, came along lead by a long procession of celebrants who tugged the float along the road using a very, very long rope. We followed the yamahoko to Naritasan Shinshoji, at which point we veered into the temple grounds and snacked on more street food.
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