Thailand 2025

June - July 2025
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Getting reacquainted with Thailand, and my 17th & 18th layovers in Tokyo. Read more
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  • The four of us at the dim sum restaurant.
    Kaeng Song Waterfall.Kaeng Song Waterfall.Kaeng Song Waterfall.Kaeng Song Waterfall.Kaeng Song Waterfall.Kaeng Song Waterfall.Kaeng Song Waterfall.Kaeng Song Waterfall.Kaeng Song Waterfall.Our lunch spot at Phitsanulok.Phitsanulok.

    Dan Sai to Phitsanulok

    June 30 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Our plan for the day was to drive from Dan Sai to Phitsanulok, where Jeff and I would board a train for Lopburi, while Paul and Renu would proceed to Kampeng Phet to visit Renu’s family. Along the way, we stopped at Kaeng Song Waterfall, which was conveniently located right next to the highway. At Phitsanulok, we dined at a great dim sum restaurant before proceeding to the train station where we parted ways.

    I cannot thank Paul and Renu enough for their company on this road trip and for taking charge of the logistics. Without them, we would have had a much more challenging time figuring our way to and around Phi Ta Khon.
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  • Dan Sai night market.
    Dan Sai night market.Wat Phon Chai lit up at night.Wat Phon Chai lit up at night.Wat Phon Chai lit up at night.Wat Phon Chai lit up at night.Wat Phon Chai lit up at night.Wat Phon Chai lit up at night.Wat Phon Chai lit up at night.Wat Phon Chai lit up at night.Wat Phon Chai lit up at night.Dan Sai night market.The concert at the main stage in town.The concert at Dan Sai night market.The concert at Dan Sai night market.Dan Sai night market.Murals at the Lotus Go Fresh in Dan Sai.Dan Sai night market.Dan Sai night market.Paul with a famous motorbike personality. We only discovered who he was later.

    Dan Sai Night Market

    June 29 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    When we returned to our hotel, we saw traffic backed up way past it. According to google maps, it was backed up 15km from town. But, rather unexpectedly, the traffic cleared around 6pm. An hour after that, we set out for dinner, but the place we had in mind was closed. So, we decided to chance it and drive into town.

    The crowds at the festival site were far more manageable this evening. We walked up the road and grazed on all manner of street food - corn, oyster omelettes, thai omelettes, miang kham, the list goes on - and we made our way to the stage where a concert was in full swing.

    I am very happy we got to experience this part of the festival. It was a fitting end to a wonderful time experiencing this unique festival.
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  • Highlights from the parade.
    A group at Krung Thai Bank.Phi Ta Khon.The crowds at Phi Ta Khon.Phi Ta Khon.The parade at Phi Ta Khon.The parade at Phi Ta Khon.The parade at Phi Ta Khon.The parade at Phi Ta Khon.The parade at Phi Ta Khon.The parade at Phi Ta Khon.The parade at Phi Ta Khon.The crowds at Phi Ta Khon.The annoying motorbikes at Phi Ta Khon.Phi Ta Khon.Phi Ta Khon.The annoying motorbikes at Phi Ta Khon.Phi Ta Khon.Phi Ta Khon.The homemade rockets we saw while departing the festival.

    Phi Ta Khon Day Two

    June 29 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We were probably a tad overconfident after yesterday’s experience when we had little difficulty getting into town and finding parking. This time around, we hit traffic soon after we left our hotel, and it took us roughly 1.5 hours to get into town and find parking, which we found in a field behind an auto repair facility. We then walked to the parade route.

    Today’s crowds were significantly heavier than yesterday’s, and, to complicate matters, there was a motorcycle convention in the vicinity, so the main road was swamped with thousands of motorbikes who were there to rev up and make noise. The noise they made was really annoying.

    It took us quite a while to walk to Wat Phon Chai and onwards to a vantage point along the parade route. The parade looked different from what people who attended last year posted on social media. It started with a color guard and a float, after which there was a contingent of uniformed personnel. Several other floats, starting with one carrying the parade king and queen, followed. Interspersed among the floats were the figures of the couple who saved the town.

    After the parade, everyone wandered down towards Wat Phon Chai or to the main road. It took a while to get there due to the slow moving crowd. I worried about the potential for a stampede and I was constantly looking for escape routes. We finally got to the main road and plotted our next move while drinking coffee. We didn’t want to deal with the crowds to get back to Wat Phon Chai. We read online that there would be launching of homemade rockets to bring rain, but we got conflicting information in real time. Two people, including someone from the local government, told us that there would be no rocket launching because we were already in the rainy season and they did the rocket launching last month to bring rain. With this information, we decided to walk back to the car.

    During our walk back to the car, however, we saw one homemade rocket, and the woman there told us they were about to offer up some prayers and then they would make their way to a field behind Wat Phon Chai where there would be a limited rocket launching ceremony. With this new information, we decided to take a backroad into town and find a vantage point to watch the rockets. Alas, this was not to be as other people had the same idea and the road was backed up. We decided to turn around and eat lunch at a cafe we saw along the backroad.

    I was disappointed by this turn of events, but, I was not ready to face the crowds again. In any case, we didn’t hear any rockets as we were dining and making our way back, so the event was either really small in scale if it had progressed as advertised, or it had been delayed.
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  • Dan Sai.
    Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Trash can truck pooch, Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Streetlamps, Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.Dan Sai.

    Dan Sai

    June 28 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    Exiting the temple, we walked uphill to explore Dan Sai, and we snacked along the way.

    It seemed as if there weren't any additional daytime activities scheduled, so we decided to call it a day and return tomorrow for the larger parade as well as the rocket festival.Read more

  • Figures honoring the couple who saved the town. Note the genitalia and breasts.
    The parade circling Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.My free som tum at Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Dai Sai Folk Museum.Dai Sai Folk Museum.Dai Sai Folk Museum.

    Wat Phon Chai

    June 28 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    At Wat Phon Chai, we observed the various costumed dancers as they paraded around the wat. We also briefly explored the Dan Sai Folk Museum which was also on the temple grounds. We then explored the various food stalls on the temple grounds and ate a lot of snacks. The temple also provided free som tum and which I gratefully consumed. The som tum was really good.Read more

  • The procession to Wat Phon Chai.
    The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.At the front gate of Wat Phon Chai.Me with a parade participant.

    Procession to Wat Phon Chai

    June 28 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    The description below comes courtesy of Jeff's research.

    The Phi Ta Khon (Ghost Mask) Festival is an annual celebration in Isan Thai culture that welcomes good spirits and cleanses the community of bad spirits and sets things off for the most auspicious possible next year.
    The festival incorporates Buddhist snd animist traditions and culminates a community effort to usher in a bountiful harvest.

    It takes place on the weekend after the sixth full moon of the year, so generally occurs in late June or early July, and celebrates the tale of Prince Vessantara, who either returned from banishment or a trip upon which he was presumed to have died. It also celebrates the sacrifice of an elderly couple who were killed when they cut down a tree that had grown so large it blocked the sun brought darkness and famine to Dan Sai. It is akin to the Day of the Dead, as many of the spirits involved are ancestor spirits, and is a joyful not mournful celebration.

    It also serves as a fertility festival, encouraging rain and abundance, and with a very obvious presence of lafge handheld palad khik (or phallus amulets) which do not serve a sexual purpose and are not considered obscene, but are wielded to provide protection and good fortune.

    Today saw the calling of the protective spirit Phra Upakhut at the Man River by specially ordained monks, an invitation to yhe Phi Ta Khon (ghosts and spirits) and a “pre” festival procession from the river to the Wat Phon Chai.

    =======
    The first ceremony of the festival begins at 4am where they invoke the spirit of the Mun River. We weren't of course, going to wake up that early. We decided instead to observe the first parade from the town to Wat Phon Chai at 10am.

    It rained all night, and when we made our way to the parade route, we were concerned about rain, but, fortunately, the weather held up for the most part. The parade began a little after 10am. It started with what we presumed to be the town's elders, followed by a male and female figure representing the couple who saved the town. After that, various other groups paraded past us uphill to Wat Phon Chai. Each team comes from a different village, and the team members wore similar costumes. There will apparently be a costume contest tomorrow. Most of the costumes were gaudy, and many of them had cowbells on their outfits which added to the already loud thumping bass from the loudspeakers. I forgot how loud Thai music can be!

    Once they went past us, we followed the parade to the temple.
    Based on videos I had seen on YouTube, I was led to believe that the parade would be much bigger than this one. But, we later learned that the second day's parade is larger in scale.
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  • Paul at Phi Ta Khon.
    Paul and Renu at Phi Ta Khon.Paul even got Jeff to try durian.Kingbun Resort.Kingbun Resort.

    Chiang Mai to Dan Sai

    June 27 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    In November last year, I informed my friend Paul, who lives just north of Chiang Mai, that I would stop by Chiang Mai on my way to Dan Sai for Phi Ta Khon. To my surprise and delight, Paul showed interest in joining me, so we decided to make a road trip out of it. Paul and his wife Renu made themselves even more invaluable when they secured our accommodation at Kingbun Resort, located only 3km from the festival site. The closest hotel I could find was 16km away. Apparently, all the rooms close to the festival site book out as soon as the festival dates are announced.

    At 10am, Paul and Renu came by our hotel to get us. We drove for seven hours via Lampang, Phrae, and Uttaradit. At Uttaradit, they even tracked down a random vegetarian restaurant in the middle of nowhere for lunch.

    I am grateful that Paul and Renu decided to join us because they are good company, and they also made the logistics of our trip so much easier.
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  • Grandcanyon Water Park.
    Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Jeff had to adapt his dives at this platform due to the low height of the board above.Grandcanyon Water Park.The broken rock climbing wall at Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Highlights from Jeff's diving workout at the Grancanyon Water Park.

    Grandcanyon Water Park

    June 26 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    I've learned from past experience that Jeff needs to recharge his diving batteries during long trips, and so I sought out the Grandcanyon Water Park southwest of Chiang Mai. I did some research beforehand and discovered that there are two adjacent water parks built into the same abandoned quarry: "Grand Canyon" and "Grandcanyon". The former features modern facilities, lots of activities, and proper safety protocols, but at a steep entry fee of 950 baht, which includes a zipline. Entry to the latter starts at 70 baht. We chose the latter. It cost us 150 baht each with cliff diving.

    Arriving at Grandcanyon, we saw that the facility had seen better days. The equipment was rundown, and, rather worryingly, there were no water safety staff. The rock climbing wall had fallen to pieces, there was an abandoned house structure in the shallow water, there were metal pieces sticking out from the pontoon… the list goes on. But, it was reasonably priced and it met our needs.

    We were the only customers in there the entire 3.5 hours we were there. Jeff had a great time jumping off various platforms and cliffs, and I enjoyed the water as well.

    We could hear loud music blaring from the other water park when we started our session, but the music soon died down, which led us to believe there were no guests there either. As we were about to leave, the music there started up again.
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  • Elephant Nature Park.
    This herd featured a young male and his mother who had stepped on a landmine.This is Kabu, who suffered awful leg injuries while working in logging.This is Kabu, who suffered awful leg injuries while working in logging.Backstories to some of the elephants at the Elephant Nature Park.Backstories to some of the elephants at the Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.This is Jenny, a youngster who has earned a reputation for being very naughty.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.The food preparation area.

    Main Paddock, Elephant Nature Park

    June 25 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    After lunch, we walked around a paddock near the main facilities. Along the way, our guide Tommy shared the backstories of many of the elephants we encountered. We also watched the vets treating a wound.

    The names of the elephants and their stories became a bit of a blur, but one stood out. Kabu had been rescued from an illegal logging camp, and she had sustained really horrific leg injuries. But, she has managed to heal at the Elephant Nature Park by bonding with another elephant with a leg injury. Together, they recovered and moved on.

    We left the sanctuary at around 3pm after 5.5 hours on site. It was a fulfilling day. The Elephant Nature Park is more expensive than its competitors, but I was happy to experience a sanctuary that focused on the wellbeing of its rescued animals instead of simply targeting the tourist dollar.
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  • This kitty jumped onto Jeff's back the first time we visited...
    ... and he hung out on my backpack on our second visit.Kitty on Jeff's back.This floofy black kitty took a shine to me.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Two kitties jostling for space on my lap.The victor got to enjoy quality time with me.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.This orange floof stopped me in my tracks and demanded lap time.Another lap kitty.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.

    Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park

    June 25 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The Elephant Nature Parks also rescues cows, buffalo, dogs, cats, and other animals. We saw a dog enclosure, but we also observed that many dogs were given free reign of the facility. Less socialized dogs wore red collars to warn people not to interact with them.

    We visited two "Cat Kingdoms" at the Elephant Nature Parl. The first one was near the main buidling and it feastured about 30 rescured cats; we visited this enclosure twice: when we first arrived at the sanctuary, and again after lunch. The second enclosure is near the end of the Skywalk and it is a very nice facility with several hundred cats. We were struck with how well socialized and friendly many of the cats were.

    Elephant Nature Park currently offers dog adoptions. We were told that they will soon offer cat adoptions as well.
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