Thailand 2025

juni - juli 2025
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Getting reacquainted with Thailand, and my 17th & 18th layovers in Tokyo. Les mer
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  • Figures honoring the couple who saved the town. Note the genitalia and breasts.
    The parade circling Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.My free som tum at Wat Phon Chai.Wat Phon Chai.Dai Sai Folk Museum.Dai Sai Folk Museum.Dai Sai Folk Museum.

    Wat Phon Chai

    28. juni, Thailand ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    At Wat Phon Chai, we observed the various costumed dancers as they paraded around the wat. We also briefly explored the Dan Sai Folk Museum which was also on the temple grounds. We then explored the various food stalls on the temple grounds and ate a lot of snacks. The temple also provided free som tum and which I gratefully consumed. The som tum was really good.Les mer

  • The procession to Wat Phon Chai.
    The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.The procession to Wat Phon Chai.At the front gate of Wat Phon Chai.Me with a parade participant.

    Procession to Wat Phon Chai

    28. juni, Thailand ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    The description below comes courtesy of Jeff's research.

    The Phi Ta Khon (Ghost Mask) Festival is an annual celebration in Isan Thai culture that welcomes good spirits and cleanses the community of bad spirits and sets things off for the most auspicious possible next year.
    The festival incorporates Buddhist snd animist traditions and culminates a community effort to usher in a bountiful harvest.

    It takes place on the weekend after the sixth full moon of the year, so generally occurs in late June or early July, and celebrates the tale of Prince Vessantara, who either returned from banishment or a trip upon which he was presumed to have died. It also celebrates the sacrifice of an elderly couple who were killed when they cut down a tree that had grown so large it blocked the sun brought darkness and famine to Dan Sai. It is akin to the Day of the Dead, as many of the spirits involved are ancestor spirits, and is a joyful not mournful celebration.

    It also serves as a fertility festival, encouraging rain and abundance, and with a very obvious presence of lafge handheld palad khik (or phallus amulets) which do not serve a sexual purpose and are not considered obscene, but are wielded to provide protection and good fortune.

    Today saw the calling of the protective spirit Phra Upakhut at the Man River by specially ordained monks, an invitation to yhe Phi Ta Khon (ghosts and spirits) and a “pre” festival procession from the river to the Wat Phon Chai.

    =======
    The first ceremony of the festival begins at 4am where they invoke the spirit of the Mun River. We weren't of course, going to wake up that early. We decided instead to observe the first parade from the town to Wat Phon Chai at 10am.

    It rained all night, and when we made our way to the parade route, we were concerned about rain, but, fortunately, the weather held up for the most part. The parade began a little after 10am. It started with what we presumed to be the town's elders, followed by a male and female figure representing the couple who saved the town. After that, various other groups paraded past us uphill to Wat Phon Chai. Each team comes from a different village, and the team members wore similar costumes. There will apparently be a costume contest tomorrow. Most of the costumes were gaudy, and many of them had cowbells on their outfits which added to the already loud thumping bass from the loudspeakers. I forgot how loud Thai music can be!

    Once they went past us, we followed the parade to the temple.
    Based on videos I had seen on YouTube, I was led to believe that the parade would be much bigger than this one. But, we later learned that the second day's parade is larger in scale.
    Les mer

  • Paul at Phi Ta Khon.
    Paul and Renu at Phi Ta Khon.Paul even got Jeff to try durian.Kingbun Resort.Kingbun Resort.

    Chiang Mai to Dan Sai

    27. juni, Thailand ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    In November last year, I informed my friend Paul, who lives just north of Chiang Mai, that I would stop by Chiang Mai on my way to Dan Sai for Phi Ta Khon. To my surprise and delight, Paul showed interest in joining me, so we decided to make a road trip out of it. Paul and his wife Renu made themselves even more invaluable when they secured our accommodation at Kingbun Resort, located only 3km from the festival site. The closest hotel I could find was 16km away. Apparently, all the rooms close to the festival site book out as soon as the festival dates are announced.

    At 10am, Paul and Renu came by our hotel to get us. We drove for seven hours via Lampang, Phrae, and Uttaradit. At Uttaradit, they even tracked down a random vegetarian restaurant in the middle of nowhere for lunch.

    I am grateful that Paul and Renu decided to join us because they are good company, and they also made the logistics of our trip so much easier.
    Les mer

  • Grandcanyon Water Park.
    Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Jeff had to adapt his dives at this platform due to the low height of the board above.Grandcanyon Water Park.The broken rock climbing wall at Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Grandcanyon Water Park.Highlights from Jeff's diving workout at the Grancanyon Water Park.

    Grandcanyon Water Park

    26. juni, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    I've learned from past experience that Jeff needs to recharge his diving batteries during long trips, and so I sought out the Grandcanyon Water Park southwest of Chiang Mai. I did some research beforehand and discovered that there are two adjacent water parks built into the same abandoned quarry: "Grand Canyon" and "Grandcanyon". The former features modern facilities, lots of activities, and proper safety protocols, but at a steep entry fee of 950 baht, which includes a zipline. Entry to the latter starts at 70 baht. We chose the latter. It cost us 150 baht each with cliff diving.

    Arriving at Grandcanyon, we saw that the facility had seen better days. The equipment was rundown, and, rather worryingly, there were no water safety staff. The rock climbing wall had fallen to pieces, there was an abandoned house structure in the shallow water, there were metal pieces sticking out from the pontoon… the list goes on. But, it was reasonably priced and it met our needs.

    We were the only customers in there the entire 3.5 hours we were there. Jeff had a great time jumping off various platforms and cliffs, and I enjoyed the water as well.

    We could hear loud music blaring from the other water park when we started our session, but the music soon died down, which led us to believe there were no guests there either. As we were about to leave, the music there started up again.
    Les mer

  • Elephant Nature Park.
    This herd featured a young male and his mother who had stepped on a landmine.This is Kabu, who suffered awful leg injuries while working in logging.This is Kabu, who suffered awful leg injuries while working in logging.Backstories to some of the elephants at the Elephant Nature Park.Backstories to some of the elephants at the Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.This is Jenny, a youngster who has earned a reputation for being very naughty.Elephant Nature Park.Elephant Nature Park.The food preparation area.

    Main Paddock, Elephant Nature Park

    25. juni, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    After lunch, we walked around a paddock near the main facilities. Along the way, our guide Tommy shared the backstories of many of the elephants we encountered. We also watched the vets treating a wound.

    The names of the elephants and their stories became a bit of a blur, but one stood out. Kabu had been rescued from an illegal logging camp, and she had sustained really horrific leg injuries. But, she has managed to heal at the Elephant Nature Park by bonding with another elephant with a leg injury. Together, they recovered and moved on.

    We left the sanctuary at around 3pm after 5.5 hours on site. It was a fulfilling day. The Elephant Nature Park is more expensive than its competitors, but I was happy to experience a sanctuary that focused on the wellbeing of its rescued animals instead of simply targeting the tourist dollar.
    Les mer

  • This kitty jumped onto Jeff's back the first time we visited...
    ... and he hung out on my backpack on our second visit.Kitty on Jeff's back.This floofy black kitty took a shine to me.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Two kitties jostling for space on my lap.The victor got to enjoy quality time with me.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.This orange floof stopped me in my tracks and demanded lap time.Another lap kitty.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park.

    Cat Kingdom at Elephant Nature Park

    25. juni, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The Elephant Nature Parks also rescues cows, buffalo, dogs, cats, and other animals. We saw a dog enclosure, but we also observed that many dogs were given free reign of the facility. Less socialized dogs wore red collars to warn people not to interact with them.

    We visited two "Cat Kingdoms" at the Elephant Nature Parl. The first one was near the main buidling and it feastured about 30 rescured cats; we visited this enclosure twice: when we first arrived at the sanctuary, and again after lunch. The second enclosure is near the end of the Skywalk and it is a very nice facility with several hundred cats. We were struck with how well socialized and friendly many of the cats were.

    Elephant Nature Park currently offers dog adoptions. We were told that they will soon offer cat adoptions as well.
    Les mer

  • Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.
    Kham La and her herd coming in to feed on a pile of food we left in the field.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.The Skywalk at Elephant Nature Park.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.A cow came over to share the herd's food.The Skywalk.The Skywalk.The Skywalk.These two elephants playfully pulled their shared feeding trough back and forth.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.Kham La and her herd at the Skywalk.Cows and elephants hanging out.

    Skywalk at Elephant Nature Park

    25. juni, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We spent Wednesday exploring the Elephant Nature Park, an ethical “hands off” sanctuary for elephants rescued from logging, performing, and giving rides. Founded in 1995, the 400 acre sanctuary offers over a hundred elephants - many of whom bear horrific physical and mental scars - a place to heal. Unlike other sanctuaries, Elephant Nature Park does not allow visitors to feed or bathe the elephants.

    We opted for a full day program that featured the Skywalk, which is a walkway that gave us a view of elephants from above. We started the day with a 1.5 hour van ride north of Chiang Mai. We reached the sanctuary at around 9.30am, and soon after we were at the Skywalk.

    That day, teenager Kham La and her herd were at the Skywalk. We threw cucumbers at them, and then we went up the Skywalk and watched as they dined on corn stalks. Each elephant had their own mahout (handler), and they had to learn how to interact with their charges using only food and positive reinforcement instead of hooks and chains.

    Halfway through, we descended the Skywalk and watched two elephants doing a playful back and forth as each one dragged their food trough towards themselves. We then helped prepare some bananas, corn, and cucumbers before dumping them in the middle of the field for Kham La and her friends. Special accommodations are made for the elephants with injuries who may eat more slowly, and also for the less socialized ones who may want to eat solo.

    The Skywalk also crossed a paddock with rescured cows. We watched in amusement as cows and elephants ate together. Apparently, these two species are known to interact because they eat the same food.
    Les mer

  • The naga staircase at Wat Doi Suthep.
    The naga staircase at Wat Doi Suthep.The naga staircase at Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.It look as if a Singaporean donated 100,000 baht for this pavilion.View of Chiang Mai from Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.Descending the naga staircase at Wat Doi Suthep.Wat Doi Suthep.

    Wat Doi Suthep

    24. juni, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    When we were done at Wat Pha Lat, we exited out onto the main road that winds up Doi Suthep mountain to Wat Doi Suthep. I'd been to this temple before, and I knew it was very touristy, but I thought I'd show Jeff the impressive naga staircase with over 300 steps. I thought about taking the trail up to this second temple, but I was also concerned about rain, so we hopped into one of the ubiquitous red sawngthaew waiting at the entrance of Wat Pha Lat.

    Within five minutes on the winding road, I knew something was horribly wrong: I had motion sickness. This came out of nowhere; the last time I recall having motion sickness was on 10 hour bus ride down the mountain from Tana Toraja to Makassar in 2019. Anyway, this short ride up the mountain was pure torture, and I gratefully hopped off when we got to the entrance.

    Due to the ongoing nausea, my enjoyment of Wat Doi Suthep was perfunctory. I made it up the naga staircase, and we enjoyed the views from the top before making our way down. At the base of the naga staircase, I had a fruit smoothie to help calm the nausea, and then I steeled myself for the ride down the mountain. The ride itself wasn't so bad, but we were annoyed by two young American men talking loudly.

    Once we got back to our hotel, I crawled into bed. Jeff procured some dramamine. After a couple of hours rest (and waiting out the rain), I felt lot better.
    Les mer

  • The naga staircase which led to a second staircase flanked by lions.
    Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.This building at Wat Pha Lat housed a reclining Buddha.The naga staircase at Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.Wat Pha Lat.I thought this baby statue at Wat Pha Lat looked somewhat demonic.Naga statue in the middle of a stream at Wat Pha Lat.The entrance of Wat Pha Lat from the main road.

    Wat Pha Lat

    24. juni, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After about 45 minutes on the Monk's Trail, we reached Wat Pha Lat. The temple complex had a lovely calm atmosphere to it. The main highlight for me was a naga staircase alongside a rock face which had water cascading down it, which in turn led to a second staircase guarded by lions. There were several interesting structures within the complex, including a stupa, and a small building housing a reclining BuddhaLes mer