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    • TravelerNepal-Japon à vélo
      Day 207

      A nice birthday surprise in Chuncheon

      October 3, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      After around 120 km, first following straight cycling lanes, then winding roads and forbidden tunnels (to avoid the steepest hills), we reach the surroundings of Chuncheon.
      At lunch, we give ourselves a pizza treat. It is a bit expensive but today is my birthday after all ! And pizzas happen to be quite tasty in Korea.
      Another afternoon surprise is to bump into a French guy I had met earlier in Seoul, while riding along a river in a park next to Chuncheon ! Ben is spending the week-end here with Sangsu, a Korean art teacher he met through Couchsurfing. To start with, we just chat and take a few pictures to celebrate this encounter, but a few hours and messages later... We are invited to spend the night at Sangsu's grandmothers's apartment. Probably a better option than the camping spot we still had to find, outside of the city, in the dark... Thanks to this unexpected invitation, I can also enjoy a warm shower the evening of my birthday ! Comforting after a first wet camping night outside of Seoul. We also go out for dinner to try out "dak galbi", a delicious marinated and fried chicken specialty from Chuncheon.
      The evening goes on nicely, all gathered in a comfortable little room at the grandma's condo. Ben and Sangsu were even so sweet as to bring me a birthday cake from the bakery "Paris Baguette". What a nice encounter ! Thanks my lucky star, for making me bump into lovely people, at the perfect moment.      Read more

    • TravelerNepal-Japon à vélo
      Day 209

      On wet and hilly roads

      October 5, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

      After Chuncheon we continue riding hilly roads towards the east, in a humid and chilly weather. We nevertheless persist in camping, finding correct spots that we often share with wild boars and squirrels.
      The evenings are short, we go to "bed" (i.e. our tents and camping mattresses !) early. But we get along well and pursue our discovery of Korean food (I love especially all the side dishes brought along the main dish. Perfect for hungry cyclists).      Read more

    • TravelerNepal-Japon à vélo
      1
      Day 210

      Temple stay & autumn leaves in Seoraksan

      October 6, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Our first stop from cycling is in Seoraksan, one of the many national parks Korea has to offer. Following the recommendations of Hilshien and Auke, we want to spend the night in a temple (Like in China, mountains being considered holy places, they are as much visited for worship than for hiking). So we leave our bicycle and luggage at the bottom and start hiking at the end of the day.

      We arrive at a temple complex a bit late, among many other tourists/pilgrims (who themselves came by bus...). Between the tea/coffee shop, the souvenir shop, the praying halls, it takes some time to find the right person to talk to. Then we find out that staying overnight is much more expensive than we thought ! But upon seeing our sad faces, the monks offer us a discount. We can stay and eat three meals of monks' food at a reasonable price. The room is small but tidy and comfortable (korean/ japanese style : mattresses to unfold on the floor). It feels good to have a shower and to sleep in a warm environment, after several humid camping nights...

      The following morning, we hike up to a viewpoint, enjoying the autumnal landscapes. Golden/ red leaves, old mossy trunks, fast moving clouds. The korean hikers seem to be serious about their gear, equipped with good brands from head to toe. The older folks are also in good shape and walk a swift and steady pace. It is among a sea of clouds that we reach the peak. From there we can see the "Yellow Sea" and the eastern coast of Korea : our next destination !      Read more

    • 9 months Sabbatical
      Day 46

      Exploring Jeju. South and West.

      November 14, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Today we explored the south and west of Jeju. Started out with a nearby waterfall.
      Then a bit further along the coast found these hexagonal stone structures which had been formed by cooling lava. Pretty cool.
      Followed by a walk along a river and a few more waterfalls.
      Taking the advice of TripAdvisor we went to the number 1 thing to do in Jeju - a sacred garden. Started by 1 man in the 60s (now a team of 25). A peaceful place with lots of Bonzi trees.
      The man Mr Bum Young-Sun is obviously quite an astute business man. A random person asked if we would write in the visitor book. Whist we were doing that she offered us some orange tea (which was very nice). She asked if we would like the meet the main man. He came round and very kindly gave us a free book about his garden, only asking that we provide a trip advisor review. A good way to help yourself to the top of trip advisor. Still, good garden though.

      With the light fading and it getting freezing, we went for an indoor activity. Can you guess who chose this one...? An art museum with perspective art which you could pose in front of.
      Got quite a few photos of me, one or two of Hannah.
      Back home for another Marvel film, which the hotel seemed to be playing on loop.      Read more

    • 9 months Sabbatical
      Day 47

      Walking up Jeju volcano

      November 15, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      Up and out quickly to get to the foot of the volcano in the centre of Jeju. There are about 5 different routes to the top, but only 2 which go to the crater. We chose the most common route to the crater.
      We arrived at 9.15 to be told we had to be at a checkpoint by 12pm otherwise we would not be allowed to the top. The checkpoint was 3 hours away, so we got our quick march on.
      Made it with 30 mins to spare, so cruised to the top.
      Last 100m were pretty tiring, but apart from that a very nice walk.
      Lots of people up at the top including lots of the Korean army out for some training. After a snickers enjoying the view we started the walk down. Great views out over the island and interesting scenery as we descended 1000 vertical meters. Total time was 6.5 hours and about 13 miles.
      With tired feet we went to the harbour for sunset and a short drone flight.
      Back to the room for some pot noodles and a cider. I think probably the first day we actually came in under budget in the whole holiday so far.
      Early start tomorrow for a flight to Taiwan to meet up with the family.      Read more

    • 9 months Sabbatical
      Day 45

      Exploring Jeju. North and East.

      November 13, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Got up and started to check the bus times for getting to the attractions. Seems like they are not very regular! Going to be a mission to get anywhere. Probably should have checked that before leaving the airport and all the hire cars! Dowh. There were a few things we fancied seeing near the airport anyway, so bussed back to get a car.
      Not a relaxing place to drive at all. They have weird junctions where is seems to be the rule of the person being the boldest and most reckless has priority, with plenty of honking of horns. Running red lights seems to be common and if they had roundabout rules, I couldn't figure them out.
      Still, we made it to a maze attraction without incident, which was naturally a'maze'ing 😝. Took us a solid 20 mins to get round.
      Next to a lava tube cave. Literally looked like a scene out of Aliens. Luckily not a Xenomorph in sight. Up to 7m high and a long underground tube. We walked about 2km in total.
      From there we walked round an ancient forest.
      Stopped on the north coast for coffee and cake. Cake was actually bread with plastic burger cheese twisted inside. Yummy.

      It was starting to get late, so we drove east till we hit the coast, and worked our way south watching the sunset.
      Experienced more of driving fun with a digger driving straight onto a roundabout forcing the car before it to stop very quickly.      Read more

    • TravelerNepal-Japon à vélo
      Day 211

      Soleil et crêpes sur la côte Est

      October 7, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Après une dernière nuit pluvieuse à la descente de Seoraksan, c'est sous un beau soleil et par une temperature agréable que nous atteignons la côte Est. De Sokcho à Gangneung, d'où partent les ferries vers la Russie, nous profitons de belles pistes cyclables donnant sur la mer. La circulation est apaisée, nous croisons juste quelques cyclistes sportifs, qui apprécient sans doute plus que nous les montées et descentes régulières qu'offre la côte.

      Comme sur la portion entre Séoul et Chuncheon, je peux de nouveau tamponner mon passeport cyclable (offert par Jo-Annna) dans des sortes de fausses cabines téléphoniques à l'anglaise qui jalonnent le parcours. C'est ludique et l'occasion d'une pause et de rencontres.

      Nous expérimentons aussi un nouveau petit dejeuner, qui deviendra une coutume et un plaisir (dès que les magasins croisés nous auront permis de réunir tous les ingrédients) : des crêpes ! ou plutot des pancakes car avec notre matériel c'est un défi de les faire fines. Nous n'avons pas encore réussi non plus le lancer/ retourner sans dégâts... C'est une oeuvre collective, David fait la pâte, je cuis. On s'améliore à chaque nouvel essai !

      Tout est au beau fixe donc, hormis deux choses (d'une importance peu comparable me direz-vous) :
      - de nombreux barbelés et bases militaires qui coupent notre route et l'accès aux plages nous rappellent que la Corée du sud est toujours en guerre, qui craint une attaque du Nord par la mer. Lors de notre première nuit sous tente, j'avais cru entendre des bruits d'avion et/ou de déflagrations. Je ne sais pas si c'etait cela mais les nouvelles locales du lendemain (on n'en parle pas en dehors de la zone concernée) m'apprirent que le Nord avait envoyé dans la nuit un missile sous-marin vers le Sud via la côte. Façon apparemment fréquente de titiller son voisin...
      - je commence de nouveau à avoir envie d'une douche. Ceci va sans doute nécessiter une solution personnalisée car David a l'air plus résistant au manque de lavage que moi !      Read more

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    • TravelerNepal-Japon à vélo
      Day 212

      Nuit revigorante dans un "jjimjilbang"

      October 8, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

      Et la solution pour être de nouveau propre mais aussi passer la nuit au chaud (je me suis enrhumée lors des nuits de camping) est...le jjimjilbang ! Il m'aura fallu un petit temps pour comprendre qu'il fallait d'emblée deux "J" pour les trouver sur Maps.me. Depuis, je ne cesse de saouler David avec : "oh un jjimjilbang par-ci, un autre par-là ! Si on y allait ?"
      Mais je ne lai pas convaincu. Nous tombons d'accord pour que j'expérimente seule avant de l'embarquer dans cette aventure. Nous nous séparons donc pour la nuit. J'entre dans ce qui est donc un bain public coréen, en l'occurrence dans un immeuble en plein centre de Gangneung.

      A un étage, ce sont les bains pour femmes : dans le plus simple appareil, on se lave en se frottant vigoureusement, chacune assise sur son tabouret en plastique devant un "poste de lavage" : robinet, douche, seau, miroir, avant d'aller se prélasser dans des bassins à différentes températures et diverses salles de sauna ou hammam. C'est plus ou moins grand et luxueux selon le jjimjibang (et le prix d'entrée). Crèmes hydratantes, cotons-tiges, sèche-cheveux sont mis à disposition de ces dames. Chacune apporte aussi ses produits de beauté/lavage, à transporter dans un petit panier en plastique.

      Mais le Graal pour l'itinérante que je suis est aussi la salle de repos, à un autre étage : c'est une vaste pièce commune où, comme les bains sont ouverts 24h sur 24h, on peut même passer la nuit : sur de vastes tatamis on étale son matelas et sa couverture. On trouve aussi une télé, des mangas et autres livres (meme si en coréen ça m'intéresse peu...),des fauteuils massants, un bar où commander à boire ou à manger, d'autres salles étranges sur les côtés : une ressemble à une fausse grotte toute chaude décorée avec du gros sel et des étoiles de mer (?). Le jjimjilbang semble donc être le moment regression/ bien être par excellence : on dort, on lit des BD, on prend soin de soi, dans un environnement surchauffé digne du ventre maternel. Tout chaud mais pas nécessairement calme. Au cours de la soirée puis nuit, de plus en plus de gens arrivent. Crevée et un peu malade, je m'endors sans peine dès 20h30, malgré un vieux qui s'est assoupi devant la TV sans l'éteindre. Mais lorsque je me réveille au milieu de la nuit, je suis surprise de voir la salle remplie de nouveaux dormeurs ! Pourquoi les Coreens, qui eux ont une maison, viennent-ils dormir ici ? Mystère. En tous cas, j'ai pour ma part apprécié de me laver, me détendre, faire ma lessive, profiter des prises et du wifi et dormir dans ce cocon... C'est toute revigorée que je retrouve David le lendemain matin. Lui a campé dans une forêt au bord de la plage. Nous fêtons nos retrouvailles avec un petit-dej au soleil !      Read more

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    • TravelerNepal-Japon à vélo
      1
      Day 215

      Further down the coast

      October 11, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Down the coast we continue. It's still nice and sunny. We feel more and more distant from big cities, crossing only little fishermen's villages. After many food and coffee opportunities in the north, the options narrow down to little fish restaurants.
      We meet a few other cyclists but otherwise it is quite deserted and the population seems to be aging. Young people have probably left for bigger cities.
      The trail is sometimes tricky, going up and down the coast all the time. We also regularly see damages from the recent typhoon, especially on river banks and bridges. One day the little port where we plan on going down to have lunch is completely barred : it has been badly flooded. To comfort us the men from the traffic regulation offer us some pastries. Another couple gives us energy drinks at a viewpoint ! Korean people are very nice, as usual.

      It is definetely the day of generosity : half an phour later, arriving at another little village, we are attracted by what seems to be a local traditional party with danse and music. We don't know exactly what is going on but the local folks soon invite us at the party and for a delicious lunch, ensuring that we don't lack anything. We then attend the performance. I would say it's nicer to watch than to listen to but you can judge by yourself by watching the videos :).

      I also try to lure David into a spa and into a cave visit, but the spa is too expensive and the cave has been flooded too... Anyway, the little detour inland that we made for these places has given us the opportunity of another nice camping spot, in a grassy field full of flowers rather than at the beach.      Read more

    • TravelerNepal-Japon à vélo
      1
      1
      Day 219

      Back inland on the "Four rivers trail"

      October 15, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      We split up for a few days with David so that I can do some sightseeing while he finishes his video about his previous country : China.
      I leave the eastern coast trail to go back inland, to join another famous cycling path in Korea : the "Four rivers trail" that connects Seoul in the north to Busan in the south. If we had not decided to go onto the east coast or to visit the island of Jeju, we could have spent two or three weeks only on this cycling path ! (but it might have been boring).
      On the way, I visit the "traditional" (touristic) village of Andong, which gathers houses of different architectural styles and techniques, a very long wooden bridge, cute coffees and a folk museum.

      Then David catches up with me and we continue our ride towards the south to take a ferry to the volcanic and scenic island of Jeju.      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Republic of Korea, Südkorea, South Korea, Suid-Korea, Anaafo Koria, ደቡብ ኮሪያ, Corea d'o Sur, كوريا الجنوبية, Corea del Sur, Cənub Koreya, Паўднёвая Карэя, Корея, Южна, Worodugu Kore, দক্ষিণ কোরিয়া, ཀོ་རི་ཡ། ལྷོ་མ།, Korea ar Su, Južna Koreja, Corea del Sud, ᎤᎦᎾᏭ ᎢᏗᎵ ᎪᎴᎠ, Jižní Korea, Repùblika Kòreji, De Corea, Republikken Korea (Sydkorea), ལྷོ་ཀོ་རི་ཡ, Anyiehe Korea nutome, Νότια Κορέα, Sud-Koreio, Lõuna Korea, Hego Korea, کره ی جنوبی, Koree Worgo, Etelä-Korea, Suður-Korea, Corée du Sud, Corê du Sud, An Chóiré Theas, Corea do Sur, દક્ષિણ કોરિયા, Koreya Ta Kudu, קוריאה, דרום, दक्षिणी कोरिया, Koreja, Južna, Kore disid, Dél-Korea, Հարավային Կորեա, Korea Selatan, Sud-Korea, Suður-Kórea, 大韓民国, სამხრეთ კორეა, Korea Kusini, Солтүстік Корея, Korea Kujalleq, កូរ៉េ, ದಕ್ಷಿಣ ಕೋರಿಯಾ, 대한민국, کۆریای باشوور, Korea Dheghow, Respublica Coreae, Koreya ey'omumaserengeta, Zuud-Korea, Korɛ ya súdi, ເກົາຫລີໃຕ້, Pietų Korėja, Kore wa mwinshi, Dienvidkoreja, Korea Atsimo, Јужна Кореа, ദക്ഷിണകൊറിയ, दक्षिण कोरिया, Selatan Korea, Koreja t’Isfel, တောင်ကိုရီးယား, Corea d' 'o Sud, Sør-Korea, Republikken, Süüdkorea, Republiek Korea, Corèa del Sud, ଦକ୍ଷିଣ କୋରିଆ, Republika Korei, سوېلي کوريا, Coreia do Sul, Corea dal Sid, Koreya y'amajepfo, Coreea de Sud, Южная Корея, Corea dû Sud, Mátta-Korea, Korëe tî Mbongo, දකුණු කොරියාව, Južná Kórea, Korea, South, Kuuriyada Koonfureed, Koreja e Jugut, Јужна Кореја, Sydkorea, Jamhuri ya Korea, தென் கொரியா, దక్షిణ కొరియా, เกาหลีใต้, Timog Korea, Kōlea Tonga, Saut Korea, Güney Kore, Південня Корея, جنوبی کوریا, Nam Triều Tiên, Sulüda-Koreyän, Salatan nga Korea, 韩国, Orílẹ́ède Ariwa Kọria, 大韩民国, i-South Korea

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