East Coast Australia

Februari - Mei 2019
  • Walshies Down Under
  • Jenny Walsh
Travelling up the East Coast of Australia with our Campervan in tow. Baca lagi
  • Walshies Down Under
  • Jenny Walsh

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  • Caves Track and the Call of the Lyrebird

    18 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌫 23 °C

    After a magnificent storm last night, the skies were clear this morning so we ventured onto the Binna Burra 5km Caves Track hike. It’s down hill all the way for 3.5km leading to a small tourist info shelter which has documented the history of The Lamington National Park. After the descent, you can choose to retrace your steps or walk the 1.5km road back up to camp. We did the latter as it offers scenic valley views along the way and you can even see Q1 and the unmistakable outline of Surfers Paradise skyscrapers from 32km away.

    As we descended into the dense rainforest, “I tell no lie” we heard a high pitched but extremely melodic birdsong call. I mimicked it’s call as best I could and the birdsong responded in perfect harmony. What’s the bird? We’ve heard it before but not exactly sure of its identity. Hang on, I think it’s... a Lyrebird.

    In fact it’s an Albert’s Lyrebird (a songbird / Kulwun), it’s part of an ancient, unique bird group that evolved when flowering plants began to dominate the landscape. It can mimic any sound and often steals the identity of the Kookaburra.

    Listen to my video to hear the Lyrebird’s call and for a special presentation from Sir David Attenborough, follow the link below.

    https://youtu.be/VjE0Kdfos4Y

    The Yugambeh Language group first walked this land following ancestor footpaths to sacred sites. From 1700, most of the early settlers to Australia walked out of necessity (Shank’s Pony) and the leisure term “bushwalking” was coined although the upper class in their immaculate attire referred to it as “rambling”. I like to think of a short hike as a “trundle” so we trundled through Lamington NP today following one of the many trails set down by pioneers in the 1930s.

    We walked up to Binna Burra Lodge for a coffee in the afternoon and sat in the panoramic dining room and watched a storm brew on the horizon. Suddenly the atmosphere had changed, low clouds passed overhead, fog surrounded and the heavens opened up. Within no more than 10 minutes from the storm reaching our vantage point, it past by and a beautiful sun and blue sky appeared like magic. Jen took full advantage.

    Came across a deadly Brown Snake today but we managed to contain it and keep it from harms way...

    With an opportunity for an evening camp fire, we gathered wood, diced some rump steak, potatoes, onions, garlic and, a tin of tomatoes, some veggies and a good splash of red wine and slow cooked a stew in the pot belly stove. Oh and don’t forget the dumplings “inspired by R Kid”. Like the French, i finished it off with a good knob of butter and voila, a taste sensation.

    WILDLIFE: Lyrebird, Brown Snake
    Baca lagi

  • Antarctic Beech in Queensland?

    19 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A beautiful sunrise this morning followed by
    another short walk along the start of the Border Track & then into a sacred, ancient place called Tullawallal. Here you find Antarctic Beech; the most northern forest of this ancient species.

    It all started when we were Gondwana. The present-day continents of South America, Africa, Australia and Antarctica, (along with India, New Zealand, New Guinea, Madagascar, Arabia and other parts of the present Middle East) made up Gondwana. Some 120 million years ago, Gondwana began to break up. Australia remained attached to Antarctica until about 65 to 70 million years ago, after which it began to move northwards, taking the Beech tree with it.

    It was very peaceful just sitting there quietly.

    On the way back to camp via the Loop Track, we came across the rangers dissecting a huge tree that had come down. Begs the question - If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?

    Returning to camp, we set the fire again and relaxed for the rest of the day & evening. Binna Burra is just the right sort of place to do that!

    WILDLIFE: Short eared possum
    Baca lagi

  • My Name's Brendan Delaney

    20 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Early pack up from Binna Burra today and double checked for hitch hiking Bush Turkeys. As we drive down from Lamington National Park, we get amazing glimpses of the outline of Surfers Paradise in the distance.

    DRIVE: Binna Burra to Noosa via Caloundra (248km)

    We are catching up with our great friends, Janine and Brendan Delaney who live on the Sunshine Coast near Mooloolaba. It’s on the way up to Noosa so we stop and catch up for lunch at Golden Beach, Caloundra.

    We haven’t caught up with them for many years and like our gremlin, their kids, Ryan and Sophie are all grown up. Ryan was 2 when i last saw him as I read an extract from Mao’s Last Dancer to him (in Mandarin...?). Well Brendan found the same little red book on his shelf, dusted it off and me and Ryan (now 24) posed to replicate the original shot. Out there....!

    We have spent many a fine night with the Delaneys with many a story to tell especially me celebrating St Patrick’s with Brendan.

    After the excitement of catching up, we managed to completely drain the car battery as the campervan was left still hooked up... doh! So a quick call to RACQ and a late arrival into Noosa.

    We’re in luck, it’s Wednesday night, wood fired pizza night at the caravan park.

    CAMP: Noosa River Caravan Park / 3 nights

    WILDLIFE
    You guessed it, the same Bush Turkey.
    Baca lagi

  • Kayak to Walshies Island on Noosa River

    21 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After being on the go a bit, today is a chill out day on the shores of Noosa River. Besides, it gets very humid up here after 8.30am. So humid in fact that after having a cold shower, by the time you've dried off, you're hot and sweaty again. Best place to cool off is in the river. Noosa River is tidal and flows in and out to the sea at Noosa Heads. The caravan park is right next to the heads so its in a perfect spot and the shoreline of the river has pristine sandy beaches.

    Jen took a bike ride into Noosa which is not far and literally across the bridge. The Main Street is famous for high fashion shops, boutique beachside hotels and a mix of cafes and restaurants from 5 star fine dining to Betty's Burgers and of course the iconic Noosa Surf Club. Noosa is the place to be seen and its full of glamorous people, cool backpackers sun baking on Noosa beach and a great mix of people enjoying coffee and ice cream from all walks of life.

    In the afternoon, we launched the kayaks from the shoreline of the caravan park and paddled down stream on low tide following a number of inlets. The inlets of Noosa are full of exclusive waterfront properties, each seemingly with a jetty and a boat.

    Paddling on low tide is not easy and we soon found ourselves marooned on a small stretch of sand forming a neat island in the middle of the river. Unclaimed, we stepped ashore as pirates and named it "Walshies Island". Now real estate isn't cheap in these parts so having our own island in the middle of Noosa is a prized catch indeed, until of course, the tide turns, the sand shifts and our footprints on the island disappear without trace...

    Noosa River Caravan Park is perfect for a sunset so camp chairs unfolded and beer in hand, we join the many other campers at the shoreline to watch the brilliant skies change colour over the river. The birds are chirping with excitement, mainly Rosellas and Indian Minors and we are indeed treated to a spectacular sunset silhouetted by a palm tree in the foreground.

    Suddenly, it becomes silent and darkness is upon us already at 6.30pm. There's no daylight saving in Queensland so the clocks are one hour behind but it is still very humid.
    Baca lagi

  • A Croc Encounter at Australia Zoo

    22 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    “Gday Mate”

    Australia Zoo on the Sunshine Coast is home to the Irwin family and is the legacy of the most passionate and energetic wildlife warrior and crocodile conservationist, Steve Irwin.

    Steve, known simply as “The Crocodile Hunter” was accidentally struck by the barb of a stingray whilst diving at bat reef on 4th September 2006 and tragically died from his injury.

    Today, Terri, Bindi and Robert Irwin take care of Australia Zoo ensuring that Steve's legacy lives on. Australia Zoo now encompasses nearly 1000 acres and employs over 400 staff, continuing Steve's mission of "Conservation through exciting education".

    The centrepiece of Australia Zoo is The Crocoseum, dedicated to Steve’s work. After exploring Asia and Africa and meeting the tigers, lemurs, giraffes, zebra, rhino, giant turtles and Jen”s favourite, the meerkats, we caught the shuttle across the park to experience a croc encounter and our indigenous wildlife.

    Meet Mossman, an impressive 4.5m male salt water crocodile, 100 million years in the making. Mossman slowly moved through the water into the crocoseum in silence... without a ripple or a stir of the water. He’s a pretty big beast and although slow on land, crocs can swim at about 28km/hr so watch out on the river’s edge. They are Australia’s Apex predator and have survived life on earth past the extinction of the dinosaurs.

    Although primarily focused on animal conservation, Australia Zoo has lots of exhibits and wildlife encounters so you can get up close and personal and it doesn’t feel like a zoo. Each wildlife area has been meticulously replicated with landscaping and plants to suit each animal’s natural environment.

    After exploring the dingos, red kangaroos and reptiles, we retreated from the afternoon sun and headed back to Noosa for a refreshing swim.

    Our wine loving friends from Adelaide, Kathy and Manny finally caught us up as they have been chasing us up the coast since Jervis Bay. It’s always a fun time with them so after a sunset drink or two at the caravan park, a trip to the men’s loo (Kathy?), we went into Noosa Main Street and had dinner at Rococco restaurant.
    Baca lagi

  • The Iconic Noosa Surf Club

    23 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Today we had to pack up the campervan and move sites in the caravan park as we had decided to stay an extra night. Normally an easy proposition but at 9.00am it was so hot and humid, we must have lost a few kilos packing the gear.

    I have given up putting a tee shirt on as it just becomes saturated in the humidity.

    We met up with The Delaneys once more at the iconic Noosa Surf Club overlooking the beach for lunch. As well as Brendan & Janine, we met their daughter Sophie and Sophie’s boyfriend Marley.

    Cold local beer and a bucket of fresh prawns are the house favourite, but I settled on The Big Kahuna Burger.

    In 1929 a Club House was placed on the Noosa beach and in May 1931 the name was changed to Noosa Life Saving and Surf Club. Since then the club has continued to patrol the beach with the proud record of no lives lost on Noosa Beach while lifesavers were on patrol.

    Surf lifesaving began on the beaches of Sydney then spread around the country, first to Western Australia and Queensland then later to the other states. The Royal Life Saving Society, which originated in Britain, placed lifelines on beaches and held classes.

    Today, most of the major beaches in Australia have designated patrolled surf life saving areas and the distinctive SLSA with their red and yellow caps, yellow top and red shorts are a major part of the Aussie culture.
    Baca lagi

  • Migrating to Hervey Bay

    24 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    We leave Noosa behind and migrate up the coast to Hervey Bay, famous for a great hump back whale migration in the cooler months between June and September. Whale watching is all the buzz during winter but for now, travellers are fewer and use Hervey Bay primarily to catch the Ferry across to Fraser Island. That’s our plan for tomorrow as we gear up for a 4WD adventure.

    DRIVE: Noosa to Hervey Bay (178km).

    CAMP: Ingenia Holidays Hervey Bay. We have set up here for three nights, but will spend night two slumming it in our tent on Fraser Island.

    We spot a pirate ship off the shores, apparently a couple live on the ship and sail these waters and offer tours of the bay.
    Baca lagi

  • 4WD Adventure on Fraser Island

    25 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Sooooooo excited. Fraser Island today and an early morning start as we have a 6.30am briefing in time to catch the ferry across to Kingfisher Bay.

    We have hired a 4WD from a company called Fraser Dingo on a two day adventure. We have a vivid blue Toyota Prado (automatic) named “Bill” and included in the tour are our ferry transfers and Fraser Island camping permits. This will be perfect practice for our month long 4WD tour of the Kimberley’s in May/June.

    We loaded up our camping gear and supplies and after a full briefing, itinerary, tide times, speed limits, how to engage 4WD and what to do when bogged in sand, we set off a few km to River Head for the 8.30am ferry.

    The ferry takes about an hour. Once we reached Kingfisher Bay, Jen got quite excited and wanted to be the first to test our skills on the sand tracks. We set to 4WD and attacked the 30km/hr sand sliding and bumping along the way. Our journey starts on a tricky narrow two way section. Suddenly the tour buses are coming hurtling behind us and we have to give way to them. Jen quickly diverts over and into one of the many elevated sandy give way lanes and successfully negotiated a big tree root to safety. What an induction into 4 wheel driving but Jen is loving it... no fear!!!!

    World Heritage listed Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand Island and stretches 123 km. It is home the only place on the planet where rainforests grows in sand.

    The island has rainforests, tall eucalyptus woodland, mangrove forests, wallum and peat swamps, sand dunes and coastal heaths. It is made up of sand that has been accumulating for approximately 750,000 years on volcanic bedrock.

    As we have two full days, our day one itinerary takes us first to to the pristine Lake Mckenzie then to Eurong on the east coast to drive the beach at 2.00pm low tide, onto Mehanni Ship wreck, The Pinnacles and Eli Creek. (See separate footprint for places we visited).

    My turn to drive. The beach is a highway and we can drive up to 80km/hr with a couple of rocky sections to navigate and creek crossings. At one point we found ourselves chasing a plane as it came in to land as the beach doubles as a runway.

    After exploring Mehino Ship wreck, we visited the fresh water Eli creek and floated down to shore.

    With higher tides approaching, we head down the beach a little to Eli Creek campground to set up our tent, hammock and cooking stove and settle in for a peaceful and majestic sunset.
    Baca lagi

  • Lake Mckenzie, Maheno & Eli Creek

    25 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    In day one of our 4WD adventure on Fraser Island, we took the inland sand track to Lake Mckenzie. It’s simply awe inspiring. A remote and pristine fresh water lake, turquoise water leading to deeper blue with immaculately white smooth sandy beaches and surrounded by rainforest. It’s the perfect combination and it must be one of the most amazing locations on this planet.

    The backpackers had arrived in droves so we took Fraser Dingoe’s advice and followed a track to an exclusive secret beach adjacent to the main beach. We stayed for a while and once the tour groups headed off, aside from a few families, we had the place to ourselves. (See drone video).

    Back on the track, we had 16km of sand to navigate to get to the main village, Eurong. This is the gateway to Fraser Island beach so we disengaged 4WD and headed up the coastal beach highway into what seemed like a never ending horizon of white beach, blue sky and rolling surf.

    We followed a plane as it landed on the beach and continued up towards Maheno Ship wreck crossing Eli creek along the way. Our brief said slow down at creek crossings but I wasn’t paying attention to Eli Creek and we glided across like on a ride at Splash Mountain. Whoops.

    SS Maheno was an ocean liner belonging to the Union Company of New Zealand that operated in the Tasman Sea, crossing between New Zealand and Australia, from 1905 until 1935.

    She was washed ashore on Fraser Island by a cyclone in 1935 where the disintegrating wreck remains as a popular tourist attraction.

    Back at Eli Creek, we passed a scrawny dingo and stopped for a dip in the fresh water creek.

    A hard days work done... we head to our beach campsite before the tide turns and the sun sets.
    Baca lagi

  • Lake Wabby and the Lone Swimmer

    26 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We need to hit the beach at 7.00am low tide so we packed up the tent whilst watching the sun rise and prepared for another day of adventure.

    Our first destination for day two was to visit Lake Wabby. It’s about a 30 minute hike inland from the beach although we missed the beach sign and passed it by as we focussed on a plane landing in front of us. So we asked the pilot for directions and he said, “yeah mate, a couple of minutes back up the coast”.

    After finding the Lake Wabby sign, we hit the track as we had a limited low tide time to work to.

    After 1.3 km of inland hiking on sinking sand, I realised I had left the 12v fridge hooked up keeping the beer cool so I had to run back the 1.3km, unhook, and start the hike again. Jen wisely continued to Lake Wabby and I eventually caught up.

    Lake Wabby is a small freshwater, emerald colored lake surrounded by bush on one side and high sand dunes on the other. The lake is directly adjacent to the Hammerstone Sandblow, which is slowly moving into the lake. Eventually the lake will disappear under the sand.

    But for now, we have it all to ourselves. I set up the drone for a fly over and climbed a sand dune and unbeknown to me, Jen had gone for a swim in the lake. She was the “Lone Swimmer” practicing her stroke technique. With the sunlight glaring out my camera screen, I pressed record and manouvered the drone towards the lake.

    The drone footage of Lake Wabby and the Lone Swimmer is awesome so check it out.

    We hiked back to the beach and headed to Eurong before high tide and refreshed as we were a bit dehydrated even though we had plenty of water.

    From here, we took a return track to Lake Mckenzie stopping at Central Station on the way to view Wanggoolba Creek. Central Station was a substantial logging village in the early 1900s, even with two schools but was cleared after 1930 and rejuvenated with many tall trees.

    Wanggoolba Creek is a fresh water creek on Fraser Island with its crystal clear waters flowing over white sand through a rainforest valley.

    From here we returned to Kingfisher Bay to catch the 5.00pm ferry back to the mainland. Sad to be leaving “Bill”, our trusted 4WD but in the end, we survived the adventure and now Jen loves 4 wheel driving. FIVE STARS.
    Baca lagi