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East Coast Australia

Februari - Mei 2019
  • Walshies Down Under
  • Jenny Walsh
Travelling up the East Coast of Australia with our Campervan in tow. Baca lagi
  • Walshies Down Under
  • Jenny Walsh

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  • East Coast Australia

    Hervey Bay to Seventeen Seventy

    27 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Following in the footprints of Captain Cook (well he had sea legs and we’ve got 4 wheels), we leave these shores called Hervey Bay and navigate up the coast to a famous place called Seventeen Seventy. Originally named Round Hill, this place was Captain Cooks 2nd Landing in Australia.

    To celebrate the bi-centenary (1970) of Captain Cook’s endeavours, Round Hill’s name was changed to Seventeen Seventy and has now become a tourist attraction frequented by travellers mainly because of its beach and sunsets.

    DRIVE: Hervey Bay to Seventeen Seventy (236km).

    Looking for somewhere to stop for a break & a bite to eat, we discovered the perfect cafe for two left handers - Mollydooker’s!! What is a Canadian restaurant named after a left-handed doing in a town with a population of just over 500??

    As it turns out, it’s the quintessential love story ( a bit like our own). Aussie girl meets Canadian guy in bar in Toronto. Decision has to be made about which country to live in. Girl “wins” & they move to her home town of Apple Tree Creek & set up a Canadian restaurant. Why Mollydooker’s? She’s left-handed of course.

    CAMPSITE: 1770 Camping Ground & Beachfront Cafe. We scored the last beachfront site & it’s the best. Site 5A is a bit tricky due to all its trees but we fitted perfectly & have an absolute cracker view across the beach & water. Facing west so sunsets instead of sunrises.

    We’re looking forward to simply sitting & enjoying the view - no major activities planned!!

    We have a 3 day weather event coming in so plenty of rain over the next few days.

    WILDLIFE: You guessed it - bush turkeys!!    Baca lagi

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  • East Coast Australia

    Captain Cook, 24th May 1770

    28 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    On this day, Lieutenant James Cook (captain of the ship but ranked Lieutenant) brought the HMS Endeavour in to make his 2nd landing on the shores of Australia (and first in what was to become Queensland).

    In fact, as you can see, Steve found the exact same rock that Cook set foot on, all be it, the tides out on this occasion...

    The famous portrait of Captain Cook was painted by one of Jen’s ancestors, Nathanial Dance (Dance being Jen’s maiden name) and it hangs proudly in the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London. The black and white drawing also done by Nathanial is in the National Portrait Gallery.

    On May 23rd 1770, Cook anchored at Bustard Bay; named for the wild bustard bird they shot and ate. Sure it wasn’t a bush turkey?

    They stayed one night on the ship before he, Joseph Banks & couple of others, went ashore to collect samples for Bank’s botanical studies. Their landing spot was in the vicinity of the very caravan park we’re staying in (developed in 1978), where a stream at the southern end enters the beach just north of the remaining mangroves.

    Cook made eleven landings on the eastern seaboard and ten of these were in Queensland. As the woods behind Round Hill Head and adjacent to Round Hill Creek were the locality of the first botanical type-specimens collected in Queensland, the area was recognised in 1989 as the Joseph Banks Environmental Park.

    Not a great deal of exploring today except to the memorial itself... weather rather inclement (it’s raining!) so we’re definitely doing the ‘chilling’ we planned.

    WILDLIFE: Some sort of stingray (see if you can spot his tail in our very blurry picture); blue crab    Baca lagi

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  • East Coast Australia

    We've Bought A Boat

    29 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    After our 42nd day of living it tough on land, we have traded in and bought a boat... “mutiny”. It needs minor repair but will be “ship to shore” in no time!

    The rain has eased at 1770 so we had an opening in the afternoon to explore Buzzard’s Bay Lookout.

    Today is a definite slow day as we pack away as much as possible for an early morning start and a long drive (6.5hrs) inland to Carnarvon Gorge.    Baca lagi

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  • East Coast Australia

    Flooded River at Carnarvon...Turn Back

    30 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    DRIVE: Seventeen Seventy to Carnarvon Gorge (532km).

    We leave Seventeen Seventy at 7.30am and set a course inland to Carnarvon Gorge on Dawson Hwy/State route 60. We are staying 4 nights a Takarakka Bush Resort.

    The imposing clouds had turned a dark bluey grey and we were heading for a big storm. Takarakka had contacted me in the morning and let us know that due to torrential rainfall, a number of the creek crossing were currently impassible and to check back at 2.00pm.

    We arrived at the last petrol stop, Rolleston and refuelled for the 100km final drive to Carnarvon. On route, we had lost mobile signal so had no way of knowing the flood levels of the creeks until we came over a crest and applied the brakes with some force. The road ahead which was the first of a number of creek crossing was flooded to 1.6m.

    Jen went in to test some of the depth... don’t worry, no salt water crocs 500km off track here... so it’s safe to enter.

    Nothing to do but to turn around and head 70km back to Rolleston as they had a petrol station, a pub/motel and a caravan park... yippee, the trifecta.

    CAMP: Rolleston Caravan Park
    A neat little park which obviously caters for backpackers during the fruit and farming season. Only 3 campers tonight.

    We were dead tired by this stage and after cleaning off some splattered Kangaroo from the undercarriage, it was already dead when we went over it... we didn’t even have the energy to set up the bed end flys on the campervan.

    So to complete the trifecta, we walked across to the Rolleston Pub/motel as it’s Saturday night in town and the place should be a buzz.

    We were greeted by three German backpackers serving behind the bar and a couple of locals propping up the bar listening to 80’s rock music... timeless. “Table”... same!!!

    The pub did however have a couple of specials on the menu, home made cottage pie and bbq pork ribs so we grabbed them before anyone else did plus a local beer and cider.

    We’re not too disappointed with the flooded creek and we slept well in anticipation of an update in the morning.    Baca lagi

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  • East Coast Australia

    Canarvon Gorge & Mickey Creek

    31 Mac 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After yesterday’s turn back, we got the ok to continue on to Carnarvon Gorge and Takarakka Bush Resort. The first creek that was flooded yesterday had dropped from 1.6m to 100mm so good to cross. We crossed a number of creeks on route, some of them had quite fast flowing water but the Kluger and camper did it fine.

    Many stranded campers had left early in the morning and we were the first new campers to arrive at Takarakka.

    Camp: Takarakka Bush Resort / 4 nights
    Takarakka has big open sites to camp on by Carnarvon Creek and we are surrounded by tall Eucalyptus trees and Blackbutt trees. Birds chirp and are busy fossicking for food, Currawongs call in the distance and Kookaburras glide from vantage point to vantage point looking for opportunities (food).

    This is such a peaceful and relaxing place and there are plenty of short and more challenging hikes to do in the gorge.

    Carnarvon Gorge take you on an unforgettable journey deep into a spectacular step sided gorge, where towering white sandstone cliffs envelop a creek-side oasis.

    From Takarakka Bush Resort, we take the main road and a few more creek crossings for 4km to the Carnarvon Gorge Visitor Area. We wander on a short 3k hike in the afternoon to Mickey Creek Gorge, rock hopping over slightly submerged rocks to cross Carnarvon Creek which is still flowing high and fast after the rainfall. Platypus live in these waters so hope to see them at dawn or dusk.

    The first thing we notice in Carnarvon Gorge are the remnants of a severe bush fire that had swept through in January. Its so colourful, and feels like an Autumn’s day.

    Many of the tall tree trunks are charred but are rejuvenating to a soft brown or creamy white by shedding bark. The trunks of the ferns are a deep charcoal black and through fire, their seeds have opened up and dispersed. The leaves of smaller plants are copper and golden. Yet, the canopy is lush and the limbs of new ferns and Cycads have uncoiled and are a vivid dark green contrasting with the black fire damage. After the fire and now rain, there are indications of new growth and grasslands are beginning to reappear.

    Mickey Creek meanders over a clear sandy base with coverings of grasses and ferns and we are privileged to see the creek in full flow as often it can be dry.

    A side track leads us to the base of Warrumbah Bluff and we follow both sides of the gorge as they become taller and narrower. It’s like entering a cave, only with a skylight. and it feels like we are the first to visit this place since water and time formed its cavern.. We push on as far as we can but the final section is still flooded. It would have be a raging river through the gorge yesterday.

    WILDLIFE:
    Swamp Wallabies    Baca lagi

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  • East Coast Australia

    Ampitheatre & Moss Garden

    1 April 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A short walk down the main track from Wards Canyon is our next stop, Amphitheatre.

    As we approach, a narrow slit above a tall series of metallic stairways appears and we realise, this is the place Indiana Jones went missing...

    So we climbed the steps and the view back from where we came was a lush oasis with tall raking palms silhouetting the crystal blue sky.

    We enter the narrow slit which was a tall 100m long cavern leading to an impressive 60m deep chamber gouged from the rock by running water.

    The towering stone walls and natural skylight create an awe-inspiring atmosphere within.

    There are benches to sit and take it all in so we take one each and lie down to view the skylight above.

    After that humbling experience, we made our way to our final stop, Moss Garden. There’s a small waterfall here over a rock ledge into an icy pool and water is dripping constantly from the sandstone, sustaining a lush green carpet of Mosses, ferns and liverworts.

    See my slo-mo video which captures the water droplets dripping from the Moss. Yes you can use it for your slow down therapy!

    We head back to Takarakka for a well deserved “home made ginger beer and ginger biscuits”.

    Had to get that in as I remember reading The Famous Five as a kid and the description of food/treats always sounded delicious.    Baca lagi

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  • East Coast Australia

    Art Gallery & Wards Canyon

    1 April 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    There is a multi day, 87km Carnarvon Great Walk for the most dedicated hikers taking in the rugged plateaus of the Great Dividing Range, aptly named “Roof of Queensland”

    We opt to do the most popular 14km hike on the main walking track which takes in the big 4 natural attraction; Art Gallery, Wards Canyon, Amphhitheatre and Moss Garden.

    There are lots of creeks to cross and many of the stepping stones are submerged so little hops become big hops and big hops end up with a splash and wet feet. All good fun.

    The rangers advise hike to the furthest point first then visit the sites on the way back. So we hike to Art Gallery which features over 200 Aboriginal engravings, ochre stencils and free hand paintings along a steep sandstone wall. It’s amazing to think these artworks and stories have been on the sandstone for a few thousand years.

    Got me thinking and without disrespect, but what would us white folk adorn as a stencil for millenia to come. It has to communicate something so I guess an outline of my IPhone 8 which would just look like a rectangular box.... oh Apple would tell you it’s much more than that! That’s it, it would be the Apple logo.

    After more quiet contemplation, we meandered down to Wards Canyon. It’s well protected from the elements with its own climate so a great place to cool off from the heat of the day.

    This is a special places as it shelters the world’s largest fern, The King Fern, Angiopteris evecta. This impressive green dinosaur is rare indeed and has survived here in this pocket, “Wards Canyon”.

    Excited to see the next two natural attractions, we retrace our steps through the blackened ferns.

    See Amphitheatre and Moss Garden on next footprint.    Baca lagi

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  • East Coast Australia

    Sunset Hill over Carnavon Gorge

    2 April 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This morning, a Kookaburra eyed off my cooked breakfast and swooped to snatch a mushroom. He may have been a little disappointed as he may have mistaken it for a rasher of bacon. He proudly sat on the log next to me rubbing it in a bit so we had a play fight with a stick. Kookaburras act like your bestie, then when your backs turned, they move in and steal your dinner.

    Shiraz and two wine glasses in hand, oh and a torch in case it gets too dark, we climb up to Sunset Hill which is a short walk from Takarakka.

    We startle a few grazing kangaroos on the way up and once we reach the summit... alright, it’s only 500 metres, we find the perfect red gum seat and table to view the sunset from.

    The sun is setting fast over the distant gorge so we crack open the red and indulge. After a moment of contemplation... “chicken or turkey for dinner” , we headed back to our bush camp.

    On the way down, I spotted a 2m long grey bellied python slithering down the slopes (see pic). Indigenous to these parts, it’s rare to see the grey bellied python and its revered as one of the most venomous snakes in Queensland.

    Maybe the wines got to me so I think I need to lie down for a while!    Baca lagi

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  • East Coast Australia

    Boolimba Bluff Lookout

    3 April 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Our final day of expeditioning (is that a word) through Carnarvon Gorge. We leave early for a 900 step climb up to Boolimba Bluff Lookout.

    It’s very steep and hard going in parts but we have the 1,000 steps back in Melbourne so we are psyched up knowing we have 100 steps already in the bank. In parts, the steps become ladders and upon reaching the summit, there’s another 1km to go to reach the bluff.

    It’s the best view of the gorge and surrounding plateaus and a great way to take it all in. From above, there is little evidence of bush fires as all we can see is green canopy for miles. Although we missed sunrise, you have to get up at 4.am and do the track, there are clouds on the horizon which give the gorge and surroundings great depth. Any day would be awesome up here, even a storm.

    I give my ‘standing on one foot on edge of cliff’ a go and in one shot, myself and Jen are jostling each other, assume to throw each other off the cliff. It ended up 50:50 so both survived.

    Hiking In the bush makes one very tired so I was cocooned by 8.00pm. Jen had snuck out with a torch and went to visit the place where they do star gazing. It’s more open and free from canopy so a great place to see The Galaxy, Milky Way, Mars, Star Bar... Jen must have had chocolate on her mind.

    Anyhow, on her return, she crossed paths with a 2m python and watched it pass by at a safe distance. Must be similar to my grey bellied python. I was still on another planet when Jen returned so she told me the story of her encounter in the morning and I told her “she’s dreamin” but no... she was Adam Ant.    Baca lagi

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  • East Coast Australia

    Carnarvon to Mackay Via Mining Country

    4 April 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    DRIVE: Carnarvon Gorge to Mackay (628km)
    Another big drive ahead of us today so our usual 7.30 start. We visit Rolleston petrol station again to refuel. Must get me a loyalty card. The price of petrol has gone up from $1.30 at the start of our Aussie Adventure to $1.57 and we are paying bush prices. If our car could run on pure coal we would be ok as this is mining country. Maybe someone could invent the steam engine...

    The road ahead is long but occasionally, we pass rugged mountain ranges and inland National Parks to visit another day. Every so often, there is a turn off and a sign directing to a production mine. Although we don’t see many mines, road trains pass us by often carrying or collecting mining material and everyone out here has a work ute or a twin cab vehicle. We see a rail depot with a few kilometres of hauling carriages waiting to start their journey.

    We pass through Emerald, Capella, Middlemount, Nebo. These are some of the rural towns that rely on farming and mining to sustain their communities. They are all neat and tidy towns and they live and breath the land.

    CAMP: Big 4 Mackay Marine Tourist Park / 1 night
    We only have one night in Mackay, a stop over point before heading tp Proserpine and Airlie Beach tomorrow.

    Mackay's magnificent world-class Marina Village has a tropical ambience, with leafy palms lining the waterfront esplanade and a view beyond to luxury yachts, sailing boats, blue skies and tropical islands.

    The marina is next to sandy Harbour Beach and home to the Pine Islet Lighthouse, one of the only working kerosene lighthouses left in the world.

    It’s sunset and the locals are having a canoe race on harbour side (see video).    Baca lagi

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