East Coast Australia

February - May 2019
  • Walshies Down Under
  • Jenny Walsh
Travelling up the East Coast of Australia with our Campervan in tow. Read more
  • Walshies Down Under
  • Jenny Walsh

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  • Drop off at Whitsunday Airport

    April 5, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    DRIVE: Mackay to Airlie Beach, Whitsundays via Proserpine Airport (158km).

    Today Jen has a 10.55am flight from Whitsunday Airport (Proserpine) back home to Melbourne for a couple of days. She is catching up with Jaime and going to see the footie at the MCG on Saturday, Collingwood vs West Coast. I will keep you posted on the score. Its a short visit and I will pick her back up Sunday morning.

    The airport doesn't look very big so maybe she's catching a crop duster or something.

    I continue a few more kilometres to arrive at Airlie Beach, the gateway to The Whitsunday Islands. Airlie Beach is a meeting point and in the past has been tagged as backpacker central. The main shopping centre is still catering for backpackers but in recent times, two years after the devastating Cyclone Debbie in March 2017, a lot more up market development has taken place, especially around the marina. Even the renowned Daydream Island which was obliterated in the cyclone has now undergone a complete refurbishment and re-opens next week. I am sat at Denman Cellars Beer Cafe having a choice crisp lager overlooking the marina.

    CAMP: Big 4 Whitsunday Tropical Eco Resort / 9 nights
    We have decided to literally "park the bus" for 9 nights so that we can sit, relax and enjoy everything the Whitsundays has to offer. The Whitsunday Tropical Eco Resort is a few kilometres past Airlie Beach on the way to Shute Harbour and it's absolutely perfect, away from the busy town and surrounded by lush tropical plants.

    Just me to set up today and as I check in early, the nice lady at reception recognises my accent (Manchester) and gets excited because she's from Bolton. After a good chat about 'back home', I must have made a good impression, she gave me the best site in the park to set up. It's a tropical oasis so very happy considering we are staying for a while.

    We have plenty of exciting things to do in The Whitsundays, a catamaran cruise, two nights camping on Whitehaven Beach, a jetski tour of the Islands and a reef snorkelling adventure. We have been to these parts a few times before and stayed at Hamilton Island so we are choosing different experiences and locations to explore.
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  • Port of Airlie Marina & Shute Harbour

    April 6, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    With down time On my own, I load the washing in the laundry but lose my coins so have to go get some change from the local supermarket. The washing is done and as I pull it out from the machine I discover my bag of coins, whoopee, I am rich again, at least enough for another beer later on...

    I decide to drive into Airlie and explore a bit.

    Port of Airlie Marina is a new development and the starting point for Whitsunday Cruise Transfers to Hamilton Island and the newly refurbished Daydream Island. It’s home to many luxury yachts and the chosen destination for tropical mariners worldwide.

    This is where I Had a beer yesterday at the beer cafe so why not, I have loose change, let’s have another go.

    Situated on the same latitude as Rio De Janeiro and Tahiti, Airlie Beach and the Whitsundays enjoy a year round tropical climate.

    After exploring the Marina, I walk to the Main Street Airlie Beach and mingle with the backpackers who are busy curing hangovers and booking adventure tours.

    Prior to the arrival of Europeans the area was occupied by members of the Darumbal Aboriginal language group. In 1904 an early settler, Thomas Abell, took up land at Airlie Beach to grow vegetables and fruit. In 1935 the Queensland Lands Department offered land beside the beach for sale. It was named Airlie Beach which was probably a reference to Abell's home in Scotland.

    I settle at “The Deck” restaurant and bar for pizza and beer and watch the world go by.

    In the afternoon I drive a short distance from the caravan park to Shute Harbour. The Harbour looks worse for wear after the cyclone but the council are spending 28 million on redevelopment. This is where we get our transfers to Whitehaven Beach on Tuesday.

    The harbour is a perfect picture and I drive up a hill to view properties with outstanding views of the harbour, the Whitsunday Islands or both. There a a few properties or land for sale and they could be a good investment given the harbour development and the push in general to preserve the unique tourism and environmental attractiveness of The Whitsundays.

    Now I promised you the Footie score as Jen and Jaime visit the MCG for last year’s Grand Final clash rematch, Collingwood Magpies vs West Coast Eagles.

    Collingwood 11.10. (76), West Coast (15.8 (98)

    The dedicated PIES supporters had a great catch up and fun time regardless of the score.
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  • The Worlds Most Paranoid Creature

    April 7, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Now the award for the most paranoid creature on the planet must go to the prehistoric looking bird, the Curlew. They spend their time and energy darting a few yards, stopping like a garden statue, then nervously looking around for danger. They must have 270 degrees vision. It’s like a game of “freeze” and they are good at it too. I say take a chill pill but obviously their survival instincts are wired into their DNA.

    I admit that from the videos it looks like I am stalking them so no wonder they are running scared being followed by an iPhone Predator...

    THE BUSH STONE CURLUE
    Burhinus grallarius Burhinidae

    If Bush Stone-curlews are nearby you may hear their eerie, high-pitched wailing at night. This ghost-like call is their contact call, and may be given by several birds in a chorus. Rendered as weer-lo, it is repeated four or five times, sometimes culminating in a trilled, screeching crescendo. It is sometimes also heard during the day, when stone-curlews are usually inactive, standing quietly in the shade with their eyes half-closed, or squatting on the ground where their cryptic plumage makes them difficult to see among the leaf litter.
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  • Snorkelling Pearl Bay & Langford Isld

    April 8, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Fortunately, there’s a break in the weather and we have lighter winds and no tropical rain for the start of our Catamaran Cruise on Illusions 2. We selected this tour as it goes to Blue Pearl Bay, Hayman Island and Langford Island, two well known reefs for snorkelling and diving.

    Skipper Joe and Naomi are our hosts and briskly set sail from Airlie, Abell Point Marina at 7.30am.

    The ride out is a little choppy taking a couple of hours to reach Blue Pearl Bay. Hayman Island, the more exclusive of all the islands is still undergoing renovations from cyclone Debbie and is estimated to reopen in August.

    Once a jewel (or pearl) in the crown, Blue Pearl Bay was the best inner reef location in The Whitsundays to see coral and tropical fish. The cyclone smashed all the coral and reminants of crushed coral cover the beach. It’s still a beautiful location to visit and the reef and fish are slowly rejuvenating the area but it will take some years to recover. Undeterred, we go exploring and view a range of fish and sea life.

    Langford reef is a narrow slice of sandy beach like a sand dune which sticks up just above the sea level in the middle of the ocean. Turtles feed off Langford Reef but today, visibility is poor and not great for snorkelling. The sail back to the mainland is rough as the wind has picked up past 25 nots. We sit on the Bow of the catamaran and get frequently splashed by sea spray and waves.
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  • Stranded and Alone on Whitehaven Beach

    April 9, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    CAMP: Whitehaven Beach, Whitsundays, 2 Nights

    Today is perfect sunny weather for our transfer to Whitsunday Island and the magical Whitehaven Beach. We have 2 nights camping on Whitehaven Beach so we have loaded up our hiking packs including the hiking tent and an Esky full of food plus our kayaks in tow.

    You can camp on many of the Islands in the Whitsundays and booked via the Queensland National Parks website.

    We depart Shute Harbour at 8.30am with a company called Scamper Island Transfers. We are the only ones going out and it takes an hour to our destination, passing Hamilton Island on the way. Once we hit unprotected ocean, we cascade up and down some serious waves and at one point, half the ocean came over the bow and soaked us.

    We reach the point and turn into view of the brilliant white sand of Whitehaven, the seas become calm and the wind has dropped.

    The boat we are on is like an amphibious army personnel carrier with a massive cargo drop bridge at the front. It’s like the opening shot of Saving Private Ryan. As we reach the beach, myself and Jen are charged with unlocking the cargo door and it lowers perfectly onto the crisp white sand for us to invade the Island.

    As we unload our gear, campers are waiting for their return transfer to the mainland and we suddenly realise that tonight, we are the only ones left camping on the island, so it’s gonna be total isolation.

    ISLAND CHALLENGE
    So here’s a challenge for our most dedicated followers... You are sent to a deserted Island, water, coconuts, olive oil, salt & pepper are plentiful. You are allowed unlimited supply of 5 foods, i.e a cow would be food which would cover meat and dairy or flour would be food or tomatos. It’s up to you. What will you Bring?

    Post your 5 things on our blog Under this footprint.

    For now, the main beach is buzzing with day tourists, tour boats come and go, sailing vessels are anchored within paddling distance of the shore and a seaplane lands just off shore carrying bespoke passengers to paradise.

    As we are the only campers, we have choice of camp site and select a perfect site within metres of the beach overlooking Whitehaven shoreline.

    We assess the direction of the sun for afternoon shade and protection and set up the tent.

    We are greeted by a goanna who’s checking us out for food and a seriously large and hairy Huntsman spider on a wooden post as we enter the site.

    Once set up, I turn on the hiking stove and put the kettle on for a morning coffee and we unwind in the camping chairs with our his and hers beach towels, a gift from ‘R Kid”. This is the best view ever and look no further for paradise.

    We had been to Whitehaven beach in September 2017 after Cyclone Debbie had flattened many of the trees that line the beach for miles. It’s great to see that the beach and landscape is recovering and the rangers have upgraded the camping and visitor facilities whilst maintaining the pristine look of the beach. Pirates Of the Caribbean 4 was filmed here at Whitehaven Beach to take in its outstanding natural beauty but only a few seconds of footage made the cut.. In fact Whitehaven has been voted one of the top two beaches in the world because of its super fine and vivid white silica sand.

    Slowly, the tourist depart the beach and sail away back to civilisation. We watch from our vantage point until we are the only ones left, “WILSON”. Stranded and alone on Whitehaven Beach, from here on, ours are the only footprints left on the island.

    Jen takes the kayak and paddles along the coastline. Suddenly she shouts out, there’s a baby shark... yeah well where’s it’s mother...?

    The sun is soon setting and its my favourite part of the day as I love to watch the colours change as the shadows on the beach begin to lengthen.

    It’s a perfect sunset and it lingers creating pink and blue fluffy clouds on the horizon above the distant but prominent Esk island out to sea.

    I take advantage and set the drone on another mission to capture the sunset moment on Whitehaven Beach.

    Soon a quarter moon has replaced the sun and thousands of stars appear as there is no light to obscure their intensity. All we can hear are the gentle waves lapping the shore as we tuck into a roast chicken and a glass of red wine, oh and the occasional rustle from the bushes which reminds us that we are not alone after all....

    I am definitely having roast chicken on my deserted island (well real chickens at least).

    The Huntsman spider has moved on but the pythons are active at night so Jen insists that we zip up the tent tonight... All good.

    WILDLIFE:
    Goannas, Giant Huntsmen Spiders, Baby Reef Shark, Pythons, Roast Chicken.
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  • Whitehaven Beach Sunrise to Sunset

    April 10, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Sunrise is officially 6.14am but we want to see it from the other end of Whitehaven Beach at Hills Inlet. It’s a 7km beach hike from camp so we wake up and set off at 5am at a brisk walking pace.

    It’s darkness but the stars and the moon reflect on the ocean and we follow the shoreline by the sound of the waves. Its currently low tide. We have headlamps but we switch them off as its much more fun in the dark and after 3km into our hike, the sunrise sky to the east is already making yellow, orange and red tones.

    5km In, I decide that it’s a perfect time to capture the sun with the drone just before it peaks out over the distant islands.

    It’s a magnificent view and we continue the further 2km to Hills Inlet to see the full sunrise. Sunrise happens quick and all too soon, we are viewing blue sky and aqua waters and the temperature is already on the rise.

    7km seemed a shorter distance in the dark and our return trip felt never ending and the moored yachts close to camp seemed to never get any closer. That’s a long hike before breakfast so we are pretty much tired and hungry.

    The rest of the morning is spent resting in the hammock or beach chair and avoiding the sun Lots of midnight blue butterfly’s with white spots gently pass us by.

    In the afternoon, we grab the snorkel gear and walk the 50m to a cove at the start of Whitehaven Beach, the place where Jen spotted a reef shark yesterday. Visibility is great and we spot a number of tropical fish including many black and white Collingwood stripey ones and a stingray hiding under a submerged oyster rock cliff.

    There’s a short hike to a lookout overlooking Whitehaven and across to the other side at Chance Bay. We wander up the sandy path as the sun cools and meet Leo and Dougie. They came across to Whitehaven today with a mechanical digger and supplies to excavate a new pathway up to the lookout.

    Leo is a National Parks ranger and an Aboriginal from The Ngaro tribe who are the ancestral owners of the islands in The Whitsundays. Leo is a kind, passionate and respectful fellow who supervises any work to be done in the National Park. Dougie is a glowing older gentleman with a straw brim hat and a tanned lined face that show he has worked hard on the land. Aptly named, Dougie digs for a living with his excavator and is a real modern day pioneer as he forges hiking trails through the National Park. Both of them are tasked with excavating a 36km trail from Chance Bay to Tung Point on Whitsunday Island. A test run of 1.5km took 3 weeks to dig...

    We reach the top of the lookout and view Chance Bay. A tall sculptured rock Island dominates the Far horizon.

    Back at camp, our last activity for the day is a short kayak during sunset and then I prepare a tasty chicken pasta on the hiking stove. Gee, it’s still only 6.30pm. Time moves pleasantly slow here.

    Layered up with mozzie spray, I sleep out under the stars in the hammock tonight with the occasional large bat swooping into the trees above.

    WILDLIFE:
    Butterfly’s, Collingwood Fish, Stingray, Kukkaburras, Bats, Goannas.
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  • Return to Civilisation

    April 11, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Before we left our beach paradise on Whitehaven, as all stranded folk on a deserted island do, I left a message on the sand.

    Our transfer back to the mainland picks us up with precision timing, 10.00am. A storm is due so we are racing against the darkening clouds behind us as we dart through the channel past Hamilton Island, South Molle Island and Daydream Island. (See the Whitsunday map for our journey).

    The view ahead is clear blue skies but the rain clouds are moving in, typical of a tropical storm. We almost make it home before the rain, but at once, the temperature drops and the rain engulfs us. It’s like a warming shower really and only lasts 5-10 minutes and the blue sky and sun return.

    Back at Shute Harbour, we unload our sturdy vessel and transfer the gear to the car for a short return trip back to our Eco Resort.

    Jen has been eaten by mozzies and flies even with repellent on so they must like the taste of her blood.

    We are a bit tired and dehydrated as expected when you have to live a spartan life on a deserted Island for a few nights. A cool refreshing shower and a few beers will fix that.
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  • Tropical Eco Recovery 101

    April 12, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    Here are the 7 prescribed steps to recover from being stranded on a deserted tropical island for two days.

    1. Drink plenty of fluid. Turn the esky down to almost freezing so the beer and cider is ice cold.

    2. Have a long cold shower to cleanse the spirit, remove the sand from hard to reach places and soothe away the insect bites.

    3. Turn on fans and air conditioning and be totally inactive. Hibernate from the heat, noise, people, all civilisation in general at least until midday.

    4. Reintroduce oneself slowly to the rigours of normal life. Try a hat on... go get a strong coffee or a real hot chocolate, sit at a cafe with a view and find some food with sugar in it.

    4. Return to your sanctuary and take a long siesta on a comfortable mattress whilst a tropical storm passes by.

    5. Re-energise with a sunset cocktail overlooking a harbour whilst listening to reggae music.

    6. Get some red meat and replenish the body accompanied by a bottle of decent red wine.

    7. Retire to bed for an early night to maximise full recovery.
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  • Last Day In Paradise

    April 13, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    After recovering from heat exhaustion yesterday, we visit the Saturday markets at Airlie Beach. I was surprised as there was no barista serving fresh local coffee. I could have made a fortune even with my little Nespresso machine...

    Our final day in The Whitsundays was spent mooching around and viewing some of the hillside properties overlooking the marina and beyond to the Islands. Magnificent views.

    It’s not a great day for water activities as the wind is up so we will have to do our planned Jet ski tour on another visit. On windy days, the backpackers park themselves in Airlie at the local pubs, bars and cafes so it’s good for the on land economy.

    We enjoy the rest of the day surrounded by tropical plants and rainforests listening to the occasional plane take off back at our resort. I even find a banana plant with a bunch of under ripe bananas hanging invitingly, to be picked on another day.

    There’s something peaceful and relaxing about a tropical paradise and we even like the warm tropical down pours which come and go frequently, always to be followed bay a ray of sunshine.
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  • The Pretty Seaside Town of Bowen

    April 14, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    DRIVE: Airlie Beach to Bowen via Hydeaway Bay (132km)

    Today we have a leisurely pack up after spending 9 nights at Big 4 Whitsunday Tropical Eco Resort, Airlie. Sad to be leaving as this has been the best caravan park we have stayed at and it’s been a relaxing and peaceful tropical oasis.

    It’s always exciting to be moving on though so that we can explore a new destination. We detour to Hydeaway Bay which is a short hop up the coast from Airlie. Hydeaway Bay is picturesque and looks out to the Whitsundays. Most of the properties here are beach houses with great views of the ocean although it does have a caravan park named “Hideaway Caravan Park” with an i, not a y. In fact, there is some dispute over the spelling of the name and the locals insist Hydeaway with a ‘y’ is historically correct.

    Further up the coast is the pretty seaside town of Bowen. Looking on my weather report, it’s 28 degrees and sunny here all week long although there are welcome signs that the breeze is cooling the humidity down as winter slowly approaches. Not to worry, winter is a cool 26-27 degrees up here so we are timing our trip to enjoy a change in season.

    CAMP: NRMA Bowen Beach Front Caravan Park.
    We had pre booked a beach front site a long time ago so that we can chill for 4 days and Bowen seems like the perfect place for it as we look out over Queens Beach.

    Bowen is renowned for its award winning beaches and close proximity to the Great Barrier Reef. It’s also known as the salad bowl of Australia due to its diversity of crops and fresh produce. Home to the Kensington Pride Mango, we passed “The Big Mango” on our way into the town.

    Swiftly set up, (we are experts after 58 days), we grab our neglected bikes, not used them for a while and take a relaxing bike ride following the shoreline pathway to Horseshoe Bay catching the sea breeze on the way. No awards for working out why it’s called Horseshoe Bay and we are pleasantly greeted by beige and orange rock formations and boulders surrounding a small but magnificently formed bay. The waves lap in to shore as we traverse some of the rock formations on the south side of the bay.

    It’s a little blustery today but on a calm day, these waters are crystal blue with opportunity to snorkel so hopefully we will see the bay at its most vibrant.

    We explore a bit and as super hero’s, ”The Un-Incedibles”, we find a large distressed boulder hanging from a ledge that is about to fall. We smell DANGER and quickly move in to support it from the effects of gravity. I have a go first but Jen finds the perfect hands free balancing trick to render the boulder safe... all in a days work and another lizard’s life saved.

    Returning on the bike path to camp, it’s definitely time to put the feet up, chill out and watch another sunset. The simple things in life are the best so... sausages and red wine for dinner.
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