San Zeno and San Giorgio

I’m not much for visiting churches, unless there are outstanding works of art to be seen. I tend to go in if I’m hot or tired and want to sit down. I did, however, make a special point today to visit the Basilica of San Zeno, which is a bit off the beaten track. It’s acclaimed as one of the most beautiful and best-preserved examples of Romanesque architecture in Northern Italy and is famous for its pretty facade of cream local tufa stone and pink marble. More than that, San Zeno is the patron saint of Verona, so it seemed only polite to pay his church a visit.

San Zeno was born in Africa in 300 C.E., became the 8th Bishop of Verona, and died in 380. As well as patron saint of the city, San Zeno is patron saint of fishermen and infants. He’s often portrayed with a fishing rod or, as in the 13th century statue inside the church, “San Zeno che ride” (“Laughing St. Zeno”), with a fish dangling from his crozier.

Legend has it that the first small church was erected by Theodoric the Great, king of the Ostrogoths, on a site above Zeno’s tomb. Construction of the present basilica and monastery began in the 9th century and the church was consecrated in 983. Parts of the original structure still exist, but much of it has been rebuilt and enlarged after earthquake damage in 1117.

Inside, the church is on three levels. As you stand in the nave and face towards the altar, steps lead down to the crypt and then up to a raised presbytery. St. Zeno’s relics have been housed in the crypt since 921, but it’s probably more famous for the tradition that it is the scene of the marriage of Romeo and Juliet.

The church does meet my requirement for good art, with the San Zeno Altarpiece, a polyptych by Andrea Mantegna, of which only the upper paintings are original*; and 13th and 14th century frescoes, important to the history of Veronese art, by anonymous artists. I particularly liked "San Giorgio e la principessa" ("St. George and the Princess"). It was my second in two days, as I saw the one by Pisanello in Santa Anastasia yesterday. St. George is the patron saint of England, and I collect sightings of him, just as I do sightings of my namesake lopping off the head of Holofernes.

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* Photograph (c) Italian Ways (http://www.italianways.com/)Read more