Piazza Brà

Piazza Brà is Verona’s main square and one of the largest in Europe. Its name derives from the German word “breit” meaning broad. It is bounded on one side by the Portoni della Brà and the remains of the medieval city wall and is surrounded by historic buildings.

In the center, what was once the Austrian military parade ground is now a garden with a fountain, shaded benches, and statuary: Vittorio Emanuele II, the first king of a unified Italy; a statue commemorating the partisan struggle against fascism; and a plaque in remembrance of Italian victims of the Holocaust. The plaque and the fountain were sponsored by Germany when Verona was twinned with Munich.

Most famously, of course, Piazza Brà is dominated by the first century Roman amphitheatre. When I arrived, the opera season was coming to an end, and tourists who had hoped for a clear view of the amphitheatre didn’t get it because props for the productions are stored in Piazza Brà. No, I didn’t buy a ticket and go to the opera. I’m sure it’s a stunning experience, but being in the middle of 22,000 people just isn’t for me. The season finished last week, the props are gone, and the amphitheatre is back to being the backdrop for selfies.

Along one side of the piazza is the Liston, a wide promenade paved with Veronese marble and now lined with restaurants. My guidebook tells me that the Lista was the area in Venice around the embassies, and when this area of Piazza Brà was paved in the late 18th century, it became known as the Liston (the big Lista). Running parallel with the Liston is Via Dietro (behind) Listone, and that’s where my apartment is. I’m right in the center, yet at night it’s very quiet – the ideal location.Read more