Canada East Coast Trip 2022

August - September 2022
This is my six week trip to the east coast of Canada. Read more
  • 35footprints
  • 1countries
  • 48days
  • 372photos
  • 3videos
  • 8.5kkilometers
  • Day 13

    Charlottetown

    August 20, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today I am going to explore Charlottetown. It is the capital of Prince Edward Island and is the home of Confederation (in 1867, if some of you need a reminder). This is the place of the famous Charlottetown Conference of 1864 where Canadian and Maritime representatives met to discuss the Maritime Union which later led to the union of the British North American colonies and later to Confederation. The population is about 40,000 and so the largest of the island.

    The waterfront area is brimming with shops and restaurants and a nice pathway system that takes you all along. It is bustling with people today since it is a bight sunny day. It is a little warm but there is a breeze coming off the water. There is a little harbour here with pleasure boats and even a few house boats. I would love to stay in one of those! Charlottetown was never a big fishing place; it was always the political and commercial center of the island. This is where merchant ships came in and out of for centuries. It is nice to wander around and check out the shops. There is also an ice creams shop called ‘Cows’. I stop in for a snack. They have about 30 flavours to choose from and I pick a couple to try. It is nice on a hot day but I think Hewitt’s is better, sorry Cows.

    I head off the main waterfront and take a walk up the old part of town. There was a major fire in 1866 which destroyed 4 city blocks. There are still many of the remaining buildings though and a beautiful church. I head on over to the Saint Dunstan’s Basilica which was built between 1897 and 1907. It is built in the Victorian Gothic style but inside it is quite light and airy. It has beautiful stain glass and is a very peaceful place.

    The surrounding streets have restaurants and bars that flow out to the streets and the historic row-houses are all colourful and neat. There is a statue of two men from the Maritime Conference having a conversation. It is actually ironic that both have the same name: John Hamilton Gray. One from P.E.I and one from New Brunswick!

    After my walk I head back to my place for a little rest. I head back downtown for some dinner. I head to a place called Brits Fish & Chips. I have a nice halibut and chip dinner. I then head back to pack up for another destination tomorrow. O’Leary here I come!
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  • Day 15

    More Lighthouses and I saw Seals

    August 22, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Hi everyone, still here. I made it to my place in Cascumpec and it is a wonderful place. It is also a basement apartment however this place is light and airy. It is a two-bedroom with windows in all the rooms. It also has a washer and dryer, so I can get my clothes done. I found this place on AirBnB ( https://abnb.me/Fo7WjPf9Isb ). The people are very nice. This place is updated with very nice furnishings. You are on a country road so it is very quiet. You can use the backyard as well. It is pretty centrally located for exploring the north side of P.E.I.

    I head off to find some lighthouses and more. I decide to head to the North Cape first. This is the very tip of the island on this side. Surrounded by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, it is pretty isolated. There is a wind farm up here as well. This is the first one I have seen on the island. I get a few shots of the lighthouse and then head down to the beach area. There is a strip of land that is just off shore with tons of birds on it. Oh wait! Yes! I see them! My very first wild seals playing around in the water. They just look like big black lumps but when they stick their heads out it looks so cute. I have my binoculars with me and can see a whole herd of seals. They surround the strip of sand and some flop around on land while others are keeping cool in the water. I couldn’t get any photos for you because of the distance, sorry.

    I head to the next lighthouse at Tiguish Shore. This was an Acadian settlement back in the day and was a huge fishing area. There were 500 people working in the industry and this was one of the main areas for fishing back in the 1800’s. Unfortunately, the lighthouse here is in need of repair. There were two men working to repair the lighthouse the day I was there. Many of these lighthouses were decommissioned and no longer in use. I guess with modern technology these lighthouses are somewhat obsolete.

    The last lighthouse of the day is at Northport. There were actually two lighthouses there! One on shore where I was but there was another one out on another strip of land that I couldn’t get to without a boat. Both looked like they were in good condition but I think only the one farther away is still working.

    Once again, this part of the island is dotted with little villages and many farms. This looks like a working community and the people you glimpse look weathered but happy. I imagine it is a hard existence especially in the winter. However, that is what makes these communities strong with neighbours helping out each other.

    Tomorrow, I meet up with a work colleague from Dofasco. They have a place here where they spend their summers.
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  • Day 16

    Lighthouses and Lunch with Friends

    August 23, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today is overcast with misty rain off and on. Oh well, you don’t control the weather and you certainly don’t let it stop you for going out and seeing things! So off I go, let’s find a couple more lighthouses. I head to the other side of this area to a place called Howard’s Cove. There is a fishing operation here but also a lighthouse! This is the smallest lighthouse I have ever seen. It is up on a hill but it only stands about 10 meters (30 feet) tall! It is your typical red and white. Apparently, this is more of a signal house for the fishing boats coming into the cove. I think it still counts and so it will make it into this blog.

    After the lighthouse I head over to see Donna and Bill. I worked with Donna in the Tin Mill for years. Although they still live in Caledonia (near Hamilton) most of the year, they summer down here in P.E.I. Donna’s family is from here and she is literally a stones throw from all her aunts and cousins. They have a lovely place with a nice deck overlooking the water. You can see the fishing boats coming in and out from Howard’s Cove right from her deck! Bill took me down by the water and there is a spring that runs from inland down to the sea. It forms a little waterfall and is running at a very good flow. Nothing that Niagara Falls has to worry about for competition but still it is a waterfall in P.E.I.! Donna has made a very nice lunch and we sit and gab for a few hours. We catch up on all the goings on from people we knew at work and I tell her about my travels. It is a very nice afternoon. Donna sends me home with some molasses cookies which are unique to P.E.I. I’ll have to find the recipe because they were very good. Thanks Donna and Bill!

    The last stop of the day is the lighthouse at West Point. This one is unique in that you can actually stay there! They have rooms and a restaurant inside the working lighthouse. There is something different. The other thing different is that this one is black and white. They have a museum that you can go through and you can walk the entire height of the lighthouse. It gets much steeper as you go up but the views are great! This is a large lighthouse and it also sits up on a hill to warn off the ships.

    This has been a busy day (for me anyways), I head back to my place to pack up. Tomorrow, I head to a different part of the island for my 4 final days on the island.
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  • Day 17

    Another Travel Day but Two Lighthouses

    August 24, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today I am traveling to Murray River, which is my last destination on the island. I am there for 4 nights and then head off the island.

    Today is overcast and rainy; not the best for pictures but okay for travelling. I have a couple of lighthouses today for you. The first one is at Cap-Egmont. This lonely sentinel was all by his lonesome, standing tall and warning the ships of the shoreline. Along the way I enjoy the scenery, I come across many inlets along the coast with boats ready to head out fishing. The views are wonderful everywhere you look. I am partial to the water but the valleys and farms inland are just as pretty.

    The next two lighthouses are in Summerside. One is offshore and one is on land. Since the weather is wrecking my ability to get good pictures offshore, I do the best I can.

    I make it to my destination which is a little different this time. I am staying in a bed and breakfast in Murray River. I’m here for 4 days and have a bedroom with a shared bath. This is the first time in a B & B in Canada. We’ll see how it goes.
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  • Day 18

    Glass Houses, Great Food and Lighthouses

    August 25, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    I slept well last night and am up early. I have brought my knitting with me, (don’t laugh) so I enjoy my coffee and knitting today while the rest of the house wakes up. I have my breakfast and set out for my day.

    The first stop today is a place where the owner has created a little ‘village’ out of bottles. Yep, you read that right. He started this for his granddaughter (who had cancer) and it just grew. The whole place is awesome with different buildings made out of clay and bottles. I have no idea where he got them all but it is amazing to see. All proceeds go to the sick kids’ hospital and so far he has collected over $80,000.00 to date.

    Today we can add 5 more lighthouses to the collection. Let’s start with Point Prim. It is a large lighthouse and is unique for a couple of reasons. It is the oldest lighthouse on the island built in 1845. It is 18.5 meters (60 feet) tall and one of only two in Canada that is round. It is also made of bricks and not the usual wood. This one has a lighthouse keepers house and has had 13 keepers since it was built (it was automated in 1969).

    After this I hit a crafters place who has homemade soaps and pottery. The lady was from Ontario and had moved there several years prior. She told me about a wool store. Well, you know me, I can’t not go! So off I go to get some island wool.

    Next up is a three-for. That means three lighthouses in one location. So let me explain something here to you non-nautical people. There are lighthouses (big tall structures that we are used to seeing) but there are also what is known as “signal houses”. These are smaller structures that are place so that when seen from a distance can help ships navigate. So, two of these ‘lighthouses’ are actually signal houses that were lined up off shore to help ships navigate the area.

    After this I have to do lunch. I head to a place called Point Prim Chowder House. Yeah, I’m immersing myself in local food. Let’s start with some crab cakes and then finish with some pasta with scallops, shrimp, spinach, tomatoes with oil. Check out the pictures. I get a take-out chowder for dinner. It was just as delicious.
    The last lighthouse is Cape Bear lighthouse. Built in 1880, it stands a mere 12.4 meters (40.7 feet) tall. It also has a keepers house.
    Well after all this it is time for me to head back and write all this up for you to enjoy.
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  • Day 19

    The Wild West has come to P.E.I.

    August 26, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Guess what I found today? Buffalo! Yep, right here in P.E.I. My hosts here at the B&B told me about the herd of buffalos just up the way. So off I go to find my big friends. I have always wanted to see them in person and I did today. Aren’t they cute? Check out the video.

    After this I went to check out lighthouses again. I went up the farthest one first which was East Point Lighthouse. It was built in 1867, it is 19.5 meters (64 feet) tall and has a fog horn as well. It has been moved twice to accommodate the fog horn building.

    Next up was the Souris East Lighthouse. This one is 14.3 meters (47 feet) tall and was built in 1880. At the same time that I was there a ferry came in from iles de la Madaleine. The Magdalen Islands are actually a part of Quebec but are closer to the Maritime provinces. The ferry ride is five hours for those of you who wish to visit.

    After all this excitement I think it is time for lunch. I checked a place out in Montague called Windows-on-the-Water. I had a lovely sole lunch and brought home some more chowder for dinner. Yes, there are pictures.

    The last but not least lighthouse today is Panmure Head Lighthouse. This one is 17.8 meters (58.4 feet) tall. It was built 1853. There is a lighthouse keeper’s house but this like all the others was automated in 1985. Although these beauties still stand to warn in coming ships of danger. The role of the lighthouse keeper is a part of history.
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  • Day 20

    Took Myself Down to the Fair

    August 27, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today I took myself down to the fair. It was in a place called Dundas in P.E.I. We have a Dundas as a borough of Hamilton, so, this was kind of fun. Dundas here is nothing more than a dot on a map. However, they have open fields and barn buildings so it turns into a fair grounds. It is an overcast day with the possibility of rain, hence the photos aren’t the greatest.

    Admission is $10.00 for adults and off I go. Park in the grass, and head off for an afternoon of fun. I check out the craft and food building first. (Yeah, there’s a surprise!) I see all the typical food stuff entries; banana bread, white bread, cookies, cakes, pies, etc. All with their prize ratings in each category. No sampling though. Next up is the knitwear. They have different categories for each age group. Many entries are from the local 4-H clubs. Next up are the quilts. There are some lovely quilts and they have a raffle for one that I just have to enter.

    Outside I head over to the cattle barn. They have a show going on so we can’t go into the barn. I check out the show for a while. I have no idea a champion cow or bull from a loser. They all look big, lethargic and make mooing sounds. (I’m such a farmer!) However, other people know and the spectators look to be very interested. I’m sure that this is more for bragging rights at the local restaurant than anything else.

    Next up are the horses. These are my favourites. I head to the barn but they have all the horses head side in, so all we get to see are the rear ends. That’s no fun! I’m not going anywhere near the rear end cause they might get spooked, kick out and there goes my vacation. So I take a seat in the stands and watch the different categories being judged. Once again, I have no idea which horse is good or bad, I just think they are pretty! (Good thing I’m not judging, they’d all win!)

    I head over to the food building and get your typical fair food: hotdog, fries and a water. After a quick lunch I head over to where the little kids are participating in different categories of riding. First up they have a poles competition. These little riders (4-6 yrs. old) are so cute being lead around by there parent through the poles. Next up was the older kids (8-10?). They were one there own and some of them just flew on their horses. It was amazing that they could control an animal that was easily 100 times their weight.

    After this I headed over to where they were doing plowing demonstrations. The first one was with a team of horses the second one was with tractors. I personally think that the horses were cuter. They were also a lot quieter.

    Well, that’s it for today. I leave tomorrow for Nova Scotia. More tales to come!
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  • Day 21

    Good-Bye P.E.I., Hello Nova Scotia

    August 28, 2022 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    It is with mixed feelings that I leave today. I have had such fun in P.E.I. that I don’t want to leave the ‘red rock’ but on the other hand I’m excited to see Nova Scotia.

    I have to say a few words here about where I’m staying, apparently, I haven’t done this yet. I haven’t stayed in a B&B in Canada before, so I was a little leery. However, those fears were for not. The place I stayed was great. The hosts Shannon and her husband were very nice and welcoming. It was Stella who stole the show. Stella is their little dog who runs to greet you with the little tale waging. The bed was very comfortable and I slept very well. Breakfast was there each morning and so was the laughter and good cheer. Sharing the upstairs living space wasn’t so bad. I never really had to wait for the bathroom or was not disturbed by the other guests. Maybe I’ll try this again. If you want to check this place out, I’ll include the link. (https://abnb.me/rKrHYje0Ssb) They also have cottages to rent if you don’t want to stay in the main house. However, Stella is worth staying in the main house, sorry Shannon!

    I am leaving for Nova Scotia on a ferry today. Shannon suggested that I book in advance and she was correct! I had no issues at all with boarding. The ferry is nice inside and has a canteen where you can get something to eat. I sit down for the 75-minute crossing and chat with my friend from home and write this entry. I have never done a ferry with a car on my own yet, so this is another first! Yeah me! The boarding and departure run smoothly, good thing the crew know what they are doing, and in no time at all I’m in Nova Scotia.

    I stop by the Tourism place to get some information on this province and then I’m on my way. I stop to get some groceries and then head to my place. This place is a whole little house. It is quite cute. It is a little older and the floors slant a bit but nothing that is a problem. The one thing I gotta say though is: First impressions count people, cut the grass. It is the first thing you see when you pull in and a little outside maintenance goes a long way to making the place look inviting. That said the inside is nice and I have a jetted bathtub. I am so going to have to get a bottle of wine for this place! Well, time for me to unload and get settled. Talk to you all later.
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  • Day 23

    Music, Whisky, and Scenery

    August 30, 2022 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    I have been travelling for about 3 weeks now. My body said ‘Time to Rest’, so I did. I spent the day yesterday pampering myself with knitting, movies (old Rom-Coms) and a nap in the afternoon. The place that I have has a deep jetted tub. Yeah, pamper myself.

    However, today I’m back on the discovery trail. The first stop was the Celtic Music Interpretive Center. This gave you an insight to the music of Cape Breton. The music came from Scotland and Ireland along with the dance. The French then influenced the music as well. Soon it became unique to Cape Breton. There are different kinds of music to listen to as you read the history. They even have a video to teach you some basic dance steps. (I have 3 left feet and no co-ordination, hopefully no one was video taping this!) They have a complete history of the music here and then show the different instruments that they use. This includes several fiddles, bagpipes and harps. They have a coffee shop where there are some musicians playing and I filmed a little bit for you. They also have a gift shop where you can buy some of the CD’s of local people. So, yes I did. I love this kind of music, it is very lively and reminds me of Scotland.

    Next up is Glenora Distillery (https://www.glenoradistillery.com). What would Cape Breton be without a distillery or two? I signed up for the tour. (Yes, I live in Niagara region of wine and distilleries, but it is always fun.) It turns out I’m the only one on the tour so I had a private tour with Cecile and saved $170.00 which is the cost of the private tour. This distillery has several cabins that you can stay at and in the fall they offer a 3 day course in distillery. The tour is very informative. The grain used to come from Scotland but now comes from Saskatchewan. The spring water that they use comes from the mountains but flows through the apple orchards. This brings the flavour of apples to the mix. The barrels that it is aged in (10 years minimum) come from Tennessee. They are bourbon barrels that have had bourbon matured in them for a minimum of 2 years. This brings another flavour to the whiskey. The next flavour comes from the barrels again since these barrels are ‘scorched’ prior to the bourbon being in them, so this adds a smoky flavour to the final product. The barrels are stored in a warehouse where the natural elements of fir and apples permeate the barrels as they mature. This all brings a unique flavour to their whisky. Yes, I bought a bottle or two to remind me of my trip.

    After the tour I take a couple of backroads (I’ll need a car wash again!) to see what I can find. The countryside is beautiful here, more like New Brunswick in the north, with mountains and valleys and beautiful beaches and a nice church. I’m starting to get hungry, so I head to The Red Shoes Pub (www.redshoepub.com). This place is owned by the Rankin sisters. If you have never heard of The Rankin Family, they were musicians that played Cape Breton music in the late 80’s to 90’s. I have several of their CD’s so I just had to eat here. They have music every evening. The food is wonderful but I don’t stay for the music. It has been a long day and I have to pack up and get out tomorrow. I’m heading for Dingwall Nova Scotia. Stay tuned.
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  • Day 24

    Next Up Dingwall, Nova Scotia

    August 31, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Wow, I can’t believe that it is already the end of August. Time does fly but it also feels like I have been on vacation forever! I have seen so much and met so many people that time has just flown by. I still have another 25 days left to go. Tired of me yet?

    So here is my quaint entry of the day. You know how you come across something that doesn’t make sense but ‘hey, I don’t live here, so let the locals be locals’? Well, check this out. I keep seeing signs on my drive to Dingwall that say I have to take a ferry. I have checked the map but I don’t see any great expanse of water where a ferry should be required. I have not found anywhere to book a ferry so this is going to be interesting. I follow the Garmin (not always a good thing, but the map looks the same) until I find the ferry crossing. Now don’t laugh, I’m sure that it makes sense to someone in government (there’s your clue!). This ferry crossing is an old style cargo barge that is connected by cables under water across a river span of 125 meters (410 feet) across St. Ann’s Bay. It runs 24 hours a day with a crew of about 4 people and takes 2 minutes to cross. Now in Hamilton, Ontario we have a span of water at the entrance to Hamilton Bay that spans 1958 meters (6423 feet), we built not one but two bridges to cross over. But like I said this was a quaint entry. I did notice that they turned away a B-Class motorhome though, so I’m not sure how they get across. Check out the pictures.

    The drive to Dingwall was breathtaking again. I know I say that a lot but I’m a nature nut and there is soooo much of it around me. This drive takes me through the back roads and up into the mountains. For any geologist in the group (Yeah, I didn’t think so!), I’m crossing the Aspy fault. This is route also takes me through the Cape Breton Highlands Park. The park covers 948 square kilometers (366 sq. mi) and part of the Cabot Trail winds it way through. You have to drive up mountain and then down, through a valley and then back over another set of mountains to get to the other side of the land. The roads are twisty and steep. I shudder again as I see trucks pulling travel trailers behind them. Gas is $1.70 per liter here so do the math. I however, drive my Escape up, down and over to the next place.

    On the way here I take a wrong road but it is a happy accident because I find a lighthouse. This is in Neil’s Harbour. Try to find that one on the map, I double dog dare you! The lighthouse was built in 1899 and is 10.4 meters (34 feet) tall. There is also a cute little harbour with fishing boats. I know, surprise to find fishing boats on the east coast of Canada! So this is a happy accident!

    On the way down to my place, I found this two mast sailboat in a little bay, I hope I get to see it in full sail while I'm here! The place I’m staying in this time is a 27’ trailer. Yep, I’m ‘trailer trash’ again. It is tucked away in a country yard surrounded by trees. I have full hookups, so nothing to worry about. The WiFi however is down. So I will write my blogs and then post them when I can get a signal.
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