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Colville on the Camino

September 2024
A 23-day adventure by Iain Read more

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  • Spain
  • England
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Hiking, Solo travel, Spirituality
  • 4.1kkilometers traveled
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  • 58footprints
  • 23days
  • 607photos
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  • TravelerColville on the Camino

    Almost time …

    August 28, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    In just 10 days’ time, I will be setting off on an adventure.

    I’ve described this to many as a long walk across northern Spain, where I am aiming* to cover about 500 km in 3 weeks, and that I’m embarking upon this particular challenge as part of celebrating my 50th birthday this year, all of which is true.

    But my journey is principally one of pilgrimage, described by some as “a journey, with God, in search of God”. I’ll try to explain something of this, as I discover for myself what it means to become a peregrino (pilgrim) on the Camino de Santiago.

    As I take my own steps along about two thirds of the Camino Frances (French Way), the most travelled of the many Caminos de Santiago, I will be following in the footsteps of many pilgrims and other travellers who, since the Middle Ages, have taken this path to Santiago de Compostela. In the last year, over 400,000 people have travelled at least the final 100 km having followed one or other of the different caminos across Spain and Portugal, each of which lead to Santiago.

    A very reasonable question is why am I (and all the other peregrinos) walking to this particular city in the northwest corner of Spain?

    Santiago is where (some of) the bones of St James (or Sant Iago in Spanish) are said to be buried. This St James was one of Jesus’ 12 original disciples, who was called alongside his brother John to leave their Dad’s business as fishermen to work instead with Jesus. You can read about him in Mark 1v19-20 and elsewhere in the New Testament.

    After being lost for centuries, the legend is that St James’s bones were re-discovered in the 9th century in a field (Latin: campus) under a bright shining star (Latin: stella), in the place now known as Santiago de Compostela, to which pilgrims have travelled across Europe since about the 12th century.

    And you are most welcome to join me on the Way of St James. I’m planning to post regularly on this platform, which will also show my progress across Spain on the map which appears towards the top of the page.

    [Fn * : In the interests of full disclosure, the actual distance may end up being less than 500km and may not always involve walking.]    Read more

  • TravelerColville on the Camino

    Getting very real

    September 4, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    As I make my final preparations for my adventure on the Camino de Santiago, I’ve been reflecting upon my readiness (or otherwise). With just three days to go, this is starting to feel very real now!

    I have to admit that I’m feeling both quite excited and, at the same time, rather daunted at the scale of the journey ahead. I’ve not done as much physical training as I should have done. But my bag is (almost) packed, my shoes are worn in and I guess I’m as ready as I will be for this adventure.

    Perhaps this is the first lesson of the Camino: Just as all pilgrimages are said to begin as you walk out through your own front door, a pilgrim can only start on their journey just as they are.

    I am conscious too that my journey will be whatever it turns out to be. That’s not some sense of fatalism but rather a mix of realism and expectation.

    I do know where I’m starting, where the first few steps will take me as I begin to put one foot in front of the other. So far, I’ve booked only my first and last night’s accommodation. I’ve studied the route in my guidebook and I know the general direction in which I plan to walk as I head west towards Santiago. I also know this is going to be very challenging on lots of levels.

    But I don’t know very much more than that. I don’t know exactly what twists and turns my path will take. I have no idea who I will meet or walk alongside on the way. I don’t really know how far I will actually manage to walk each day over the next 3 weeks. I don’t know whether I’ll be able to find a bed in an albergue (hostel) in the village or town where I decide to stop walking for each day. My uncertainty and lack of control over what lies ahead is real but all part of the adventure!

    And yet what is much more important to me is that I see this as an adventure for, and with, Jesus. As He and I travel together along the road that lies ahead, my prayer is that I will learn more about Him, every step of the way.

    I’m therefore content to trust God for all of these unknowns, as well as with all that is known. This doesn’t mean that my fears have instantly vanished but I set out on the Camino with a heart full of hope and faith, rather than trepidation.

    As I count down these last few days, I’m very grateful for the encouragement, prayers and good wishes offered by many friends, family members and colleagues, especially over recent weeks and days. I’ve also been amazed at quite how many have expressed their interest in following my journey. Thank you for all of your support and kind words.    Read more

  • TravelerColville on the Camino

    The journey begins here

    September 6, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Home. That place where the heart is said to be. But also the essential starting point, from which any journey of pilgrimage must begin.

    My home for more than half my life has been here in Coventry, the wonderful city of peace and reconciliation. Coventry’s rich and fascinating story includes prominence as a city built on the textile trade in the Middle Ages, brief periods as the capital of England and the seat of parliament in the 15th century, before the skills of nimble-fingered ribbon workers in the 18th century were passed first to the watch and clock makers, and then successively to the makers of sewing machines, bicycles and ultimately motor cars and aeroplanes.

    Much maligned, and often misunderstood, Coventry is however best known for being a place to which you could be sent involuntarily in the 17th century, or for being a place where a brutalist concrete-loving regime made good use of a city centre largely flattened by the efforts of the Luftwaffe in 1940 and 1941. Or perhaps you might know about one or other of our 3 cathedrals?

    More than all that, Coventry has been my home for nearly 3 decades and it’s somewhere I’ve come to love. It’s where I’ve put down roots and have brought up my family. A place where I’ve found welcome, hope, and purpose, as well as many dear friends over the years.

    And tomorrow morning, my journey towards Santiago begins right here.

    Let’s go! Ultreia!    Read more

  • TravelerColville on the Camino

    Llegada a España

    September 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    ¡Hola desde España!

    So far so good. Flight was delayed by about 30 mins, but very smooth, with lovely views when the clouds parted, of London, the north and south Breton coasts, the Spanish coast near Santander (I think), and various mountains as we descended towards Adolfo Suárez Madrid–Barajas.

    In case you were wondering, Adolfo Suárez was Spain’s first prime minister after the end of Franco’s regime, who oversaw Spain’s transition to democracy in the late 1970s.

    Terminal 4 (and 4S too) was designed by none other than Richard Rogers, who incidently also designed Heathrow T5. You decide which looks better!

    I eventually managed to escape from the airport labyrinth and will very shortly board the bus to Burgos.    Read more

  • TravelerColville on the Camino

    Burgos

    September 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I’ve finally arrived in Burgos, a major city in northern Spain, about 220km north of Madrid. Most importantly for me, it’s on the route of the Camino de Santiago.

    I’m staying here tonight in a privately run albergue (which, yes, I booked in advance) near the beautiful cathedral.

    It’s an absolutely lovely evening here, with lots of people about, many much more smartly dressed than me, and there’s a real buzz in the air.

    But that’s nothing to the sense of joy and anticipation I felt, as I walked the short distance from the bus station to my albergue. To finally be here, about to start on my journey, feels quite moving. I’ve been thinking about this since the end of last year and the plan has slowly come together. I’m here now, and then in the morning, the walking starts properly!

    More prosaically, I’m not entirely sure what I’ve just ordered for dinner: Huevos Stallone. But I’m more confident that I know what “una cerveza grande” means!    Read more

  • TravelerColville on the Camino

    Burgos at night

    September 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The city is even more pretty at night than it was in the early evening.

    I’ve not long got back from a amazing immersive nighttime visit to the cathedral for a sound and light show (no photos allowed but Google “Burgos catedral Stella”) created for the 800th anniversary of the cathedral in 2022. With translation into English, the show told the story of the foundation and building of what was the first gothic building in this area, as well as the backstory of several chapels, all pointing to the major theme that this building was created to share God’s light come into the world.

    The building really is stunning. There are some good pictures here: https://londontraveller.org/2022/10/02/inside-b….

    Whilst we were waiting for the show to begin, there was just enough light for a couple of internal snaps in the otherwise dark cathedral.

    Saw El Cid’s tomb in the cathedral too, although this didn’t get a mention or illumination.

    Back now to my albergue room, which is rather too warm and filled with 9 snoring men. At least no one will notice if there’s one more to add to the cacophony…    Read more

  • TravelerColville on the Camino

    Burgos to Tardajos

    September 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I may have underestimated my need for earplugs last night. 10 snoring fellas make quite a bit of noise. My top bunk was comfortable, but it was incredibly warm in the albergue. However I did get a reasonable night’s sleep.

    I made a start on the road just before dawn. Burgos was a little chilly and drizzly this morning. Not many people about at 7.30 on a Sunday, except for an intermittent line of pilgrims heading west and making the route very clear and straightforward to follow.

    The arch with obelisks on each side (see photo) is the Solar el Cid, marking the location of El Cid’s home. El Cid, or Count Rodrigo Días de Vivar, was a warlord in the 11th century, famous for doing battle with the Moors, who honoured him with the title “as-Sayyid” (the Master or Lord) which became El Cid in Spanish.

    We quickly left the city into countryside, albeit the path threaded its way under and over various major roads and a railway line just outside Burgos.

    As the rain fizzled out, I enjoyed a nice chat with a Canadian couple from Halifax for a few km.

    After about 2 1/2 hours and 11km, I made it to Tardajos and breakfast. I might have stopped sooner but this was the first place with open bars!    Read more

  • TravelerColville on the Camino

    Tardajos to Hornillos del Camino

    September 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today’s total: 22.8km in just under 6 hours.

    So I’ve survived my first day of walking. Just arrived at Hornillos, where a bed was waiting for me with a friendly welcome in the Municipal Albergue.

    Second half harder than the first. Quite a bit of up and down, as the path took us properly into the Meseta. The Meseta is the plains or plateau across a lot of central Spain. Endless wheat fields and sunflower fields, and some where they could be growing rocks. The wheat has been harvested already, with high stacks of straw bales dotted about.

    Leaving Tardajos mid-morning, the bells of the local church were ringing out strongly, and the sound carried far across the fields.

    I found a tiny hermitage chapel just on the way out of the next village, Rabé de las Calzadas, where a tiny nun leapt up from her phone to greet me with gusto. She asked if I was a peregrino (I said yes) and she presented me with a small necklace of Mary, the mother of Jesus, in whose name the chapel is dedicated. She then laid her hands on my head (I had to bend down so she could reach) and she prayed a prayer of blessing, mostly in Spanish and a few words of English. A special moment.

    About halfway through the second half of the journey, I reached the Fuente de Praotorre, a shady oasis in a small copse, with a water pump, the sort you have to prime with water left from the last people to use the pump and then pump like crazy until the gurgling turns into flowing water. You have to first refill the priming bottle and then you can take what you need.

    After the Fuente, I spent most of the remaining 6 km into Hornillos chatting with a lady from Ohio, and a Danish couple, each of whom started at St Jean at the foot of the Pyrenees.

    Have met a range of nationalities today. Several Australians, quite a few Canadians and Americans. A few Spanish and some French too. And others with whom we only exchanged greetings: Buen Camino!

    After checking into the albergue, I found some food and have enjoyed a couple of cold beers in the shade! And I’ve just been chatting some more with the Danish couple I met earlier.    Read more

  • TravelerColville on the Camino

    Hornillos 2

    September 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    After getting settled at the albergue, I spent nearly all afternoon sat in more or less the same chair in a square outside the bar where I had lunch, meeting a dozen or so new friends, including two genuine Kentucky colonels, who introduced me to a number of their Camino friends variously from California, Colorado, Toronto, the west of Canada, Ottawa and South Africa, plus a young Spanish couple who were cycling. The chap from California (in his late 30s) is on his third Camino (and the second in 2 years!). Apart from one of the Spanish cyclists, the others all started in St Jean. It was great to hear about their journeys so far and to share our reasons for being on the Camino.

    Whilst wandering up the down the single road running through this small village, I bumped into the Canadian couple I met this morning. I also found 2 Australian ladies to whom I’d spoken only briefly at a couple of points during the day, and we ended eating dinner together, and chatting properly.

    I’ve also just chatted with the hospitalera (host, for want of a better word) from my albergue, who knew this had been my first day on the Camino when she stamped my credencial earlier.

    After an increasingly sunny afternoon and a v pleasant evening, it’s got quite chilly now under a cloudless sky. The weather apps seem to be forecasting a low of only 6° for the early morning.

    My plan is to reach Castrojeriz tomorrow, about 19km from here and which is where almost everyone I’ve met today is heading.    Read more

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