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- Dag 16
- 22 sep. 2024 12:00
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Höjd över havet: 560 m
SpanienSamos42°43’56” N 7°19’36” W
Triacastela to Samos

I was up and away by about 7.45 and made it downstairs to the bar below the albergue to have breakfast. This consisted of coffee, fresh orange juice and what I now understand to be a neapolitana (or what the French call a pain au chocolate). I sat with a Canadian lady and my bunkmate from Seattle.
It steadily grew light outside and it was time to get on our way and my bunkmate and I agreed to walk together to continue our conversation from last night.
Just as the Camino came to the end of Triacastela, the path went in 2 directions. The main and traditional route went right towards San Xil and the slightly longer path to the left went via Samos, where there is a huge Benedictine monastery, said to be the largest (physically) in Spain if not the whole of Europe, as well as being one of the oldest - it was founded in the 6th century on the teachings of the mystic Desert Fathers before taking the Rule of Benedict in the 10th century.
There had been some discussion in the evening, and with those we’d met outside the closed church, as to whether to take the Samos option. When I was originally making plans for my Camino, I had initially discounted the Samos diversion, primarily because it added 6 or so km to the journey to Sarria, the mostly likely next destination.
However, as I travelled on the bus yesterday, I read up about the monastery at Samos and had decided I would, after all, go via Samos. The American lady we spoke to outside the church said she wanted to go to Samos, and it appeared that there was a good chance of Mass at the monastery church especially on Sunday. My bunkmate also decided he would like to go to Samos too.
As we set off, the light drizzle turned into more definite rain. Undeterred, we took the path to the left at the end of the village which ran initially alongside the road. At first there there only a narrow track running behind the Armco barrier. This soon turned into a wider path with frequent sections of wooden decking to bridge across gaps where there was insufficient space beside the roadway before the ground level dropped into the ravine below. In between the passing traffic, we could clearly hear the rushing water of the Rio Sarria 10-20m below.
The landscape here in Galicia is very different to the province of León and even the Bierzo region I left yesterday. All around were wooded hills and occasional rocky outcrops, with the mist swirling above.
The path took various twists and turns and left the roadside to lead through wooded valleys and fields, passing through several tiny, and apparently deserted, villages, all whilst following the course of the river.
After about 9 or so km, the huge monastery at Samos came into view below us, and the path descended into the village. We’d heard that mass would be at 12 noon (and that that monastery itself was not open until 12.45 and into the afternoon). We therefore decided to stop for coffee in a small bar just as a coach load of Spanish tourists poured into the bar. The sun had come out and so we sat at a table outside the bar, and waited for the tide of tourists to dissipate.
After coffee, it was soon time to head over to the monastery church, and we met our other American friend from outside the Triacastela church.
The monastery church was large and grand, with a large Benedictine cross suspended above the altar. We took our seats and sat in silent prayer as we waited for the mass to begin.
As I’ve said before, although a Catholic mass is very different in style and liturgy to the Baptist church where I currently worship, there is something special about joining my brothers and sisters in Christ and in following their pattern of worship. I was better able to follow and join in with the liturgy of the mass this time, aided by my Catholic friend and bunkmate, as well as my bilingual liturgy book. Although unable to take mass, I again went forward for a blessing.
It was a real privilege to be there and to take part in this service, and to see how moved my
Catholic friends were by the mass.Läs mer
ResenärInteresting to hear you monastic encounters