The Outer Hebridean Way

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Trip start
May 17, 2026
The Outer Hebridean Way Traveler
Six Weeks and Counting (Planning)
April 5 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 6 °C
The idea of cycling the Outer Hebridean Way has been on my bucket list for a few years now. Using 2 ferries and 6 causeways to hop between a total of 10 islands, the route begins on the Island of Vatersay near the southern tip of the archipelago and ends 185 miles later at the Butt of Lewis lighthouse in the far north. According to the guidebook, there is no danger of getting lost as the route is way-marked throughout its length, although since the introduction of cycle specific GPS computers, way-marking is of lesser importance.

I had a half-attempt at planning it in 2021, in the mist of the Covid era, when staycations were all the rage. There are limited places to stay on the islands, and most were already fully booked for the whole of that year and into 2022. We switched our plans to waking the Northumberland Way and put the Outer Hebrides trip on the back burner. In January this year I took another look at it. The plan is to cycle the route, together with my friend and long-term cycling buddy Stuart, and be supported by our significant others on the Broom Wagon. For non-cyclists that’s the vehicle with responsibility for sweeping up stragglers who are unable to make it to the finish.

For what is essentially a 3-day cycle, planning is disproportionately complicated. Firstly, the Outer Hebrides are a long way from Edinburgh and the roads to the nearest ports aren’t exactly of motorway standard. Then there are the ferries, or given recent experience, then there aren’t the ferries. Even assuming they are running as scheduled, they don’t exactly lend themselves to the logistics of cycle touring. For us it means either an early breakfast and relentlessly chasing the boarding time or a leisurely pootle and stretching out the coffee stops to pass the time until the ferry arrives.

To further complicate matters, there seems to have been an agreement between hoteliers to offer 2-night minimum stays in the islands’ (limited) tourist accommodation. Whether resulting from a desire to maximise the income from one pair of sheets, or simply an aversion to the sight of middle-aged men stuffed into Lycra, it is not conducive to planning a cycle tour. Even with a relaxed schedule, a cyclist will be about 40 miles and potentially a ferry crossing away from their accommodation by the end of a day’s cycle. This probably explains why most of the blogs I read have the cyclists camping overnight.

Nevertheless, the trip has the makings of an epic adventure and the prospect of walking on white sandy beaches, seeing dolphins and finally (maybe) seeing the Northern Lights for the first time are enticing.Read more
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The Outer Hebridean Way Traveler
Four Weeks and Counting (Training)
April 19 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
I was never a Boy Scout, but I am familiar with the concept of earning achievement badges, mainly from watching 'Hey Duggie' with my youngest grandchildren. Voiced by Alexander Armstrong (Pointless), Duggie is a cartoon dog and scout leader to an unlikely troop of animal children. The more observant among us will recognise the creators worked hard on inclusivity, with one family being environmentally conscious, taking a tandem to scout meetings, and one scout who is adopted (a baby crocodile with elephant parents).

I mention this in relation to the ageing process. I am now very much in the category of a gentleman of a certain age and am discovering that ageing brings with it some uninvited guests. For example, take my knees (please take them and give me back the ones I had when I was 40). Whereas I used to bound up and down stairs two at a time, some days I now have to plant both feet firmly on the same step before tentatively reaching for the next. However rather than bemoaning the fact, I prefer to think of age related defects as awards you receive for not dying. So channel your inner Dougie as we repeat together "You have earned your sore knees badge".

With this in mind, it was with some trepidation that I set out on my first serious training ride. Rather than the usual morning stiffness and occasional twinge, my left knee had become really painful over the previous couple of weeks, so much so that climbing the stairs or simply walking to the fridge and back had become a bit of an adventure. I was relieved to discover that, although my knees may have me waddling like a duck out of water, once in the saddle I remain as graceful as a swan crossing a millpond.

As the days passed and with no sign of improvement, I decided to visit a physiotherapist. My cycle trip was less than six weeks away and it was clear that I needed help. The physio diagnosed mild to moderate osteoarthritis (in other words mild to moderate old age) together with general stiffness and recommended some stretching and muscle strengthening exercises. I have been following his advice religiously and the difference has been quite startling. After only a few days, I am now bounding up the stairs, albeit one step at a time, and managing to go for short walks without too much pain. Definitely money well spent.

Getting in sufficient training has been another matter though. I have fallen into the retirees' trap of over committing myself and finding enough free time to do some serious bike rides has been a challenge. But now with 4 weeks to go and with the knees becoming less dodgy by the day, I hope to approach my training regimen like a lazy student cramming for an imminent exam. What can possibly go wrong?Read more
TravelerThe ferries.
4/19/26Reply
Soo pleased to hear you're making such amazing progress ... I feel the Isles Ultra could be your next adventure!!🥂 [Debs]
4/21/26Reply
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The Outer Hebridean Way Traveler
So.....
April 24 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
What could possibly go wrong. The closing words of my last post were still echoing when I opened an email from Calmac. Our ferry onto South Uist has been cancelled up to and including the day before we are due to sail. This would mean that our journey would be the first scheduled crossing for the ferry after an extended time covering a different route. The return to normal duty is dependent on the repair or replacement of other, currently unavailabe vessels. If you have been following the woes of Calmac's ferry services to the islands, your expectations that this crossing would run as planned may be on the low side.

A few days later, in what eventually turned out to be a computer error, our second ferry was rescheduled 10 times in the space of an hour, moving sequentially from the morning of the first day's cycle to the evening of the third and final day. It is fair to say our confidence in the logistics of the trip had hit rock bottom.

Some serious thinking and weighing up options was needed. Some of the costs were locked in but the majority could be refunded at this stage. The prospect of not getting onto the islands or getting stuck on the wrong island and being unable to complete the route are all too real. Cutting to the chase, cycling the Outer Hebridean Way has been returned to the bucket list for another time. The bidding process for a new ferry to serve the Outer Hebrides is underway so maybe in 10 years or so......Read more
🥲such a shame [Debs]
4/26/26Reply
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Trip end
May 22, 2026

The Outer Hebridean Way

Six Weeks and Counting (Planning)

Four Weeks and Counting (Training)

So.....