Arequipa

My journey started on the overnight coach, arriving at the 'Hotel Casa de mi Abuela' (Granny's House) at 6.30 in the morning, bleurgh! So, priorities: after a short rest and a shower, I was sitting on the outdoor terrace having breakfast by 8 o'clock, looking out over the front garden which was furnished with deck chairs, sunshades, roses and, the final cliche, a picket fence. This was followed by a photographic meander around the rear garden (with pool) which, in addition to the usual sun loungers, also had swing chairs, hammocks, a library and an 'Italian Job' style, back to front car. David Hockney would not have looked out of place at this poolside. To top it all, it was a really hot sunny day. This was beginning to feel like a holiday! So, after another quick power nap, I was soon heading out to explore the centre of Arequipa, just a short walk away. I had read that the Plaza de Armas and the Monesterio de Santa Catalina were the sights not to miss.

Many of the significant buildings in Arequipa are made of a white, volcanic stone with grey flecks, called ashlar. The Plaza de Armas did not disappoint. The cathedral, central fountain and collonaded shops surrounding the square were all made of the pale coloured rock. Elegant palm trees and rose gardens completed the picture. On this beautiful Spring Saturday it was also full of locals, walking, talking and catching the rays. I sat for a while, until I could no longer tolerate the large flocks of pigeons gathering around my feet and flying past my nose; noisy groups of teenagers with bags of birdseed were the culprits.
Taking a gentle stroll back the way I had come for half a block, I reached the grey archway of the Santa Catalina monastery, stone-carved nun checking out all new visitors on entering. Sitting on a bench seat before going in, I observed a smartly dressed man in a Panama hat, cheerfully directing exiting tourists towards an early lunch in the cafe across the road, but I had already spotted my favoured eatery on the way down, a parasol-covered restaurant in a pedestrian side street just a few steps away. A salad starter and spicy meat stuffed peppers, if you're interested.

Inside, the monastery is a self-contained village, with high, Moroccan-painted walls, in cerulean blue and tan. Carved lintels and collonaded cloisters are made of ashlar. A single tree, the only feature on one herringbone paved courtyard. Others have pergolas, shrouded in climbers, shading wooden seats for quiet meditation, or lily pad fountains with eau de nil water. Large, wide streets, simply decorated with pots of geraniums are lined with individual 'cells', most with their own private, courtyard gardens of potted succulents and cacti. Before leaving, I toured a large gallery, filled with religious paintings from the famous Cusco School of Art, and stepped down into a tiny basement chapel filled with school children and their teacher. But, the high point, literally, was to walk up the stunning, stone stairway, to a rooftop eerie, with hazy views to Volcan Misti in the distance. I would be heading that way in the morning, towards the Mirador de los Andes, 4,910 metres above sea level, with views of the five volcanoes (highest 6075 metres) of the Cordillera Volcanica, which surrounds Arequipa for 50 km. I would be on my pilgrimage to see the 'condor fly past' in the Colca Canyon...

Good morning! I so look forward to your 'letters' it sounds amazing and you've got such a way with words! im not sure if you get my messages but have spoken to chris about it, I really must get familar with facebook. It can't be long now until your return, we have lots to catch up on!!! Lots of love xxx From Sharon Axten, on Oct 13, 2014 at 05:03AMRead more