Day 12: Fromistra to Carrion de los Cond

Spent the night in our first official Municipal Albergue in Fromistra, a pretty non de script Spanish town. Both us us spent night tossing and turning as we battled to get to sleep in a dormitory room of 40 plus. Only relief was inserting blue tack in my ears to get some lightweight sleep - thanks Bernard Fanning!

Next day was a 20 km walk in the park following a path that was next to a main road. Surrounding us was dull farmland scenery. However, along the route we stopped at Villalcazar de Sirga to view the magnificent Santa Maria La Blanca, a gothic church built in the 12th century by the Knights Templar to protect pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land. Guide book stated that this was a church that should not be missed on the Camino - and it wasn’t wrong. I’ve attached photos to give you a sense of the wonder and construction.

We arrived in Carrion de los Condes without much fatigue. On way into town we met this American guy in the middle of reviving the murals of an abandoned church. He called us in to show us his progress, which was inspiring. To fund this, he holds concerts at the local cathedral. Tonight there is a Spanish guitar rehearsal which Paul and I have been cordially invited to attend. He wants to have a few beers with us after the concert.

Accomodation is getting tricky but both are winging it. Tonight we’re sleeping in (believe it or not) an operating Catholic convent that has rooms for pilgrims. Catherine Churchman would love this place. It’s functional and has that convent austerity about it.

Paul and I sharing a room with Manolo, my Galician friend, who’s lying nearby trying to learn English online. A real character.

I need to say here that of all the nationalities we’ve meet so far, some of the warmest and most effusive have been the Spanish on their trail. From Estella and Pep from Gerona, to Manuel based in Brussels, to Galician Monolo and Antonio and Rnelio near Madrid; they’ve all been genuine people.Read more