Day 17: Astorga to Forncebadon 27.5km

PW: Another full day starting at beautiful Astorga, with its Gaudi palace, and then onto a 27 km gradual incline for an altitude gain on 1619 metres. We are now in Forncebadon for the night, an alpine resort developed on the back of pilgrims passing through this area.

Great to be in higher altitude and walking uphill, compared to the long flat walks we’ve been doing on the Meseta. We commented that the uphill section at the end of today’s tramp into Forbcebadon was similar to being in NZ.

Met some interesting characters today on the trail. Notably, well to do Kelly from Chicago, with multiple houses around the States, told us that she’d never been apart from her husband for more than a week! The month on Camino has seemed like an eternity for her. She said she was communicating with him via text only. She felt that if she talked to him virtually, to see and hear him, that she might fall emotionally apart.

This revelation made Paulus Maximus and Minimus almost choke on their coffee. Both seriously doubted their own partners having this reaction to any of their absences, regardless of the time period involved. Both sympathised with Kelly’s predicament and moved on to the next topic.

Next was the delightful Lucia from County Kerry. Paulus Maximus in full flow conversation given Lucia’s high level role in primary and community health services in Kerry and Limerick. After talking health service development and politics for awhile, Tall Paul cleverly negotiates a contract of €130000 pa, accomodation, Mercedes Benz, and professional education for the next year, all in good craic. Lucia then tells Paul that she’s done several Caminos, in stages, to keep active. She’s 57 and she was diagnosed with Parkinson’s Disease at age 50. She has regular pain in her legs and shoulders and that the only way to beat the symptoms is to remain active, physically and doing the work she loves. She used to work in excess of 70 hours per week, but recently reduced to 50. Not giving into the disease. A real trooper.

Last, we came across a Dutch threesome, from Eindhoven, who were walking the Camino from Seville. One member was in real strife. The ever helpful Small Paul carried her pack up hill, in hot conditions, to Forncebaden. Sherpa Paul carrying bags for the Dutch. I loved it. What a man. We then met up with the Dutch contingent in the village and proceeded to enjoy many beers with them, making connection via my own Dutch heritage. Lovely crew who we will no doubt bump into regularly, and have a few laughs with, on the way to Santiago.

Tomorrow we climb to the highest point of the Camino and then down to Ponferrada. About 26km. I’ve been dealing with some shin pain, which is gradually reducing, thanks to pain killers. But my pain is nothing when you see the number of pilgrims walking slowly in excruciating physical pain (much like Lucia) in order to get to Santiago. Where there is a will, there is a way, I suppose…Read more