Day 22: Sarria to Portomarin. 24.5km

PW: We had a nice night in Sarria, catching up with the Dutch team: Jean-Pierre, Agnes and later Jolander. I enquired at length about Jean-Pierre’s various Caminos, and will write a summary in another footnote. The Spanish cervesa flowed in the discussion, and we were joined by the two Canadians, Patrica and Janice.

Two Pauls then went on for a menu del dia at a recommended local restaurant. We were delighted to have a high quality meal of scallop croquettes, beautiful Spanish tomato salad, perfectly marinated beef, and a chocolate and creamy custard layered dessert, that was the town’s specialty. We enjoyed that so much, that staff indulged us in seconds. That desert richness, combined with mediocre red wine and several prior beers, caused small Paul not to feel his best self.

The 24.5 km walk to Portomarin was in steady rain and/or drizzly conditions. So walking most of the day with full wet weather gear - which makes it hard to want to talk to people passing by. Another distraction has been the amount of new pilgrims starting from Sarria. Thousands of them - 330,000 every year to be correct. Sarria is popular as the mostly Spanish pilgrims can collect a Camino certificate after 4 days of walking. Their introduction has changed the vibe the walk; it’s congested as anything, there’s this frenetic energy and noise about the new walkers and, of course, more competition for beds in Albergues. We long walkers of the Camino shake our heads at the excess commercialism and hype and think back to the Misesta.

So nothing outstanding scenery wise to report. We are walking on the well worn paths of centuries of previous pilgrims, passing richly green and well watered countryside of undulating hills and small farm holdings.

Small Paul is usually 10-15 metres (or more) ahead of me as I walk gingerly with my strapped shins. I can only catch him when small Paul, helpful as ever, takes it on himself to instruct another pilgrim on the best way to walk with their poles or fix their pack if it isn’t sitting right. This is my chance to get ahead. I race to catch them up, and ask, in a concerned manner, if Small Paul is bothering them as there has been some problems with him on the trail. They get the joke and I carrying on walking by. It’s wearing a bit thin by now, but it still makes me smile. At least it gets me in front for a period.

We have cracked the less than 100km mark. So close, and still a bit too far. Looking forward to a rest day towards the end of this week. Shins are screaming.Read more