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Coast to Coast UK
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Coast to Coast UK

A 40-day adventure by philip Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 8, 2024
    philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    21

    A journey of delays. Tomorrow we start

    September 10, 2024 in England ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Well we have finally made it to the start line after a rather tricky journey over.
    Started with Gisborne but didn't matter as we overnighted with Phil and Kate.
    Then a stressful ride to airport in an unreliable VW only making it to the airport with 4 hours to spare. Talk about cutting it fine.
    2 hours late leaving Auckland which gave us 30 minutes to change terminals in Singapore and board. Fortunately this flight also left late due to them waiting for an engineer to strap a cello to a seat.
    Some trepidation at Heathrow wondering if our bags made it so quite a relief to see them.
    Train to Carlisle for 2 nights to recuperate. Unfortunately Maree not feeling great but hopefully improving.
    Train to St Bees for a start tomorrow. Collected our stones which we carry from Irish sea to North Sea.
    St Bees very pretty. Just hope the weather holds. 22km tomorrow with a camp in pub garden.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    11

    First day

    September 12, 2024 in England ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Well, we are underway. Headed off at 7.15. Nice walk along headlands with views over to Isle of Man and west coast of Scotland.
    Pretty easy walking apart from one big climb. 24km which should have less after we hopped up from a rest and went the wrong way.
    Camping in a yard next to pub. 10 pound each with only a toilet which felt pretty steep.
    Weather is pretty good and looking like it might last, which would be amazing.
    I have managed to pack my long trousers in the wrong bag, so I'm hoping we don't find midge country.
    Met a guy on train yesterday who has walked most of walks in the UK. He has been recovering from a head injury and walking felt right.
    Another 24km and campground tomorrow night. There are not many walkers around so far.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    1

    Day 2. Ennerdale bridge to Borrowdale

    September 13, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Early start day 2. good frost on the ground and pub closed so up and walking by 6.45.
    Breakfast on bench when we got to Ennerdale waters.
    Lovely walk around the lake before a coffee at a YHA.These are a bit like the refuges in France with honesty box during the day.
    Walk up through forest before a late lunch and then steep ascent and then down to Honister where they mine slate.
    Stayed at basic campground at chapel farm. Walked down to the pub at Stonethwaite. Lovely meal with great service. Huge contrast with previous night.
    Forecast bad tomorrow so booked a room in Grasmere.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    1

    Day 3. Chapel farm to Grasmere

    September 14, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Discovered last night that all the stone walls were built by monks. Incredible efforts on very steep faces. They complained to the king to say they were being hard done. He promptly confiscated the land and sold it to another church group. Pretty tough.
    Wet night. We both slept better having had a good meal and half a sleeping pill.
    Packed up and walked up to the pub for breakfast. Once again a great experience.
    Wet and windy all day. long climb for a hour or so. Once we got to top started on the high route but too windy so backtracked and walked down a lovely valley.
    It was supposed to be a short day but we are both feeling pretty tired. Combination of weather and day 3 meant a slow day.
    I think we under estimated some of the terrain. Hills are bigger than we thought.
    Grasmere is lovely. Very picturesque. Almost like Wanaka with lots of tourists and hikers around.
    I have been including some sheep porn to keep Chris Lowe engaged 😂    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    1

    Grasmere to Patterdale

    September 15, 2024 in England ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Another wet day. only 12km today, so we left late, hoping the weather would clear. unfortunately, there are no views today.
    The original plan had been carry on up to a high Tarn to camp but weather not great, so we were in a room tonight.
    A few observations so far:
    People on trail are really nice and friendly. Mainly English so far. Most people getting their bags transferred, which is great as allows all sorts to participate.
    Tracks are everywhere and well maintained. Bet DOC wished they had the same budget.
    People and dogs everywhere. even hotels advertise how much room for dogs. And in all the restaurants.
    Service in hotels etc pretty average. Maybe it's been a long summer, and everyone is tired but no real effort to help. Price gouging to a captive audience in some places.
    However some places have been fantastic so we can only hope.
    It rains a lot up here but very beautiful. Villages and stone walls are incredibly pretty.
    Hills are bigger than we expected. Tomorrow will be our hardest day. Somebody said there are some ruins near the end, but you will be so ruined yourself you won't notice.
    Wish us luck.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler

    Pattydale to Shap

    September 16, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Our biggest day so far. Two quite big climbs, including the highest point of the C2C. Fortunately, the weather was perfect.
    We were surprised not to see many people. Realised later that lots took a ferry to the end of the lake and walked a different route.
    So 2 big climbs to lunchtime and then steep descent. Then, 14km of walking out to Shap. Got in at 6 pm, so about 10 hours out there.
    Pub closed on a Monday, so a sausage roll from supermarket and soup on the cooker.
    Camping in a rear garden.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    1

    Shap to Orton

    September 17, 2024 in England ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We had originally planned on doing a 32km walk today. However we were quite tired so decided to cut the walk in half.
    Cold pasty from supermarket and headed out. Met some great Aussies so lots of banter.
    Got to Orton about 2pm. Had planned on camping at pub in the garden but a busy road so walked on to New House Farm. Run by a 92 year old lady living on her own. I ended up sitting down with her for an hour talking about her life. It was a privilege to meet her.
    Slept in tent in a paddock. Good showers and had it to ourselves.
    Had a "The castle" moment. The old lady gave us some cake. I thought it might have a special name so asked her what sort of cake. "Sponge" she said.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    2

    Orton to Kirkby Stephen

    September 18, 2024 in England ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Another shorter day. About 18km. Cold start after a good night in the tent. Huge moon, so very light.
    Nice walk through farmland all day. Some thoughts on the farming styles but will leave for another post.
    Stayed in a lovely bed and breakfast, which was a nice change from the tent. And a great meal from Indian restaurant.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler

    Kirkby Stephen to Keld

    September 19, 2024 in England ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Great walk today. Walked up to a set of large cairns called the 9 standards. nobody sure of their origin. Either religious but probably to mark a boundary.
    Weather was perfect. Met lots of people today, which was nice.
    Camped in a farmers field tonight and having a beer at the pub. Unfortunately booked up for dinner so bacon buttie from the camp cafe. There are not many photos today, sorry. Too much talking.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    2
    5

    We are halfway

    September 20, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today we walked from Keld through to Reeth.
    Good night in the tent. Note to self though. Don't have 2 pints before going to bed in a tent. Too much admin later.
    We decided to take the low route today down through the lovely Swale valley. Walked down through lots of abandoned buildings.
    The traditional way of farming here is to have 2 paddocks per mob of sheep. One has a barn in it and the paddock is shut up for hay all summer. This is stored in the barn. The sheep are in the next paddock for the summer. Then, into the barn for the winter. Very simple.
    As the day was very foggy, we never got great views. Stopped at a lovely pub for lunch. Beef and Guinness pie seems to be the specialty.
    Staying in an inn tonight, so nice change from the tent.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler

    Reeth to Richmond

    September 21, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Short day today. Only 18km so we were in Richmond by 1pm.
    A grey day so not many photos sorry. Mainly sheep and walls to be seen.
    We have been seeing an English couple for the last few days, John and Vicky. Unfortunately Vicky has got bad blisters so they stopped today and are back in London.
    They had their accommodation reserved for the rest of the trip so we have now decided to become John and Vicky... their suggestion.
    Maybe not what we planned but does give us some bookings later in the week when the weather is really expected to turn. Rain, snow and potential gales which would have made tenting tricky.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler

    Not much to report

    September 23, 2024 in England ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Bit of a tough couple of days. Grey day yesterday and rain today.
    Walking through farmland that farmers don't want you to.
    Lots of electric, barb and blackberry.
    We are currently in Osmotherley. Lovely village and a nice meal.
    So, I thought I would add some farming comments.
    Sheep farming here is all about meat. Lots of black Fibre and raddle.
    Lots of double muscle Beltex. Heaps of meat and really well fed but really poor structure.
    At least 10% lame but guess it doesn't matter as everything set stocked.
    Been trying to talk to a farmer but been told "good luck. Yorkshire farmers don't talk".
    No stock trucks. Farmers use trailers and tractors.
    Subsidies to farm are being reduced but more for planting trees. Sound familiar.
    Farmers doing better than French farmers. Farms generally look well looked after but they don't look too busy but could be wrong.
    They use baling twine to tie up gates as well😀
    Very few earmarked. Mainly tags and raddle.
    Tails left twice as long as NZ.
    Not worried about gorse and blackberry. Nothing sprayed.
    Less dags but very few crutched sheep... no Aussie fly.
    Quite a bit of supplementary feeding... even when well fed.
    Lots of salt/vitamin blocks. Could we learn something?
    Utes scarce, but canopies pretty shit. Just tin riveted to steel frame. Very noisy. An opportunity?
    Dry walls are actually two walls bound together by larger stones as per photo.
    Balage stacked differently. And very little bulk silage in stacks.
    Hopefully some better photos tomorrow. 3 days to go.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    2

    Osmotherley to Claybank top

    September 24, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Really nice walk today. Had a great place to stay last night. Great food, company and shower was incredible.
    Shorter day. About 18km. Mix of farmland and moorland with some nice forest.
    Been with 3 Aussies from Adelaide. Lots of banter.
    Unfortunately they don't finish until Friday. We have 2 more days. Big day tomorrow. @34km with 28 on the last day.
    Have had a few days with 3 guys from Manchester. They lost their daughter/partner and unborn baby to a texting driver. Walking to raise money. A pretty harrowing story.
    Also met a team driving partridge for some shooters. Sounded very expensive.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    1

    Our last day today

    September 26, 2024 in England ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    We had a good walk yesterday. Pretty flat the whole way. Through the moors where we kept expecting Kate Bush to jump out in her red dress.
    Lovely lunch at the Lion hotel. The 4th highest in the UK. And haunted.
    If we hadn't had a booking we would have stayed there in the tent in the beer garden.
    33km walk so didn't get in until 6pm. Pretty shattered and got left behind by Maree.
    It is pouring with rain today so going to be a testing 28km. Wish us luck.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    3

    Last day. Egton Bridge to Robinhood Bay

    September 27, 2024 in England ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    On Wednesday evening I was walking into a village when I saw an old lady walking her dog. We discussed the weather as you do in England. She asked if I was walking tomorrow. When I replied in the affirmative, she just said, "Oh dear." Loosely translated from Yorkshire, this means you are %#!
    This was confirmed yesterday morning when Maree looked out the window and used some similar wording.
    28km day into a strong headwind and driving rain. Having said that, I enjoyed the walk as we went through some lovely villages and then along a very rugged coast.
    Finishing was a bit of a letdown. Threw the stones into the water and had the obligatory photo. No walkers were around due to weather, so a bit sad.
    Dinner last night with an American couple who we walked with a bit, which was nice.
    And now off to York. I will do a couple of posts as I can only put two video on at a time.
    The photo of the cattle stop shows a hedgehog escape ramp. I need one for home.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler
    1

    The last day

    September 27, 2024 in England ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Walking through the moors. Tad wet.

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler

    York

    September 28, 2024 in England ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    After the walk we spent a couple of days in York. It is a beautiful fort town with a castle, walls and a magnificent cathedral. However we had to pay 18 quid to enter. It is the first church we have had to pay to enter including the many in France and Spain. The cathedral caught fire in 1984. It was rebuilt in 4 years. Can't say that about our cathedral. The city was very busy being a weekend so we were a bit overwhelmed after our walk. Lots of Harry potter themes going onRead more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler

    Heading north

    October 1, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We have just spent a couple of days around the Aberdeen area.
    Visited Rosslyn Chapel, which was spectacular. The stain glass window depicts corn from America. However, the chapel was built 30 years prior to Columbus discovering America.
    Made famous by the da Vinci code novel. Visitors have increased from 30k to 130k.
    Also saw the Kelpie horses at Felkirk. Very impressive.
    And a visit to Balmorel castle as the day was so good. There are castles everywhere. It's hard to decide what to see.
    And finally, a visit to St Andrew's. Unfortunately, the Dunhill masters were about to start so somewhat restricted. Saw the first tee where Harry came to grief.    Read more

  • philip caveCoast to Coast UKTraveler

    Edinburgh

    October 3, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    From York, we traveled up to Edinburgh via Berwick on Tweed. It was a bit of a letdown. Cold grey day didn't help.
    Then, up past a nuclear power station to Edinburgh where we stayed out at Leith.
    As it was mid week and late season, we assumed it wouldn't be busy. Boy, were we wrong. All access and tours are full. And raining unfortunately.
    However, we went around the city by bus and visited the sites. Wanted to climb to Arthur's seat but too wet.
    Did manage a whiskey tour to avoid the rain and saw a very large collection.
    But a beautiful city where we will be more organized when we go back.    Read more

    Trip end
    October 17, 2024
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