Central America 2018

December 2018 - January 2019
Mexico, Havana and Guatemala
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  • 22.9kkilometers
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  • Day 13

    Cycling the city

    December 27, 2018 in Cuba ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After the first full night’s sleep for everyone - with nobody feeling unwell, we had a simple breakfast at the hotel and joined the bicycle tour.

    For the next 5 hours we cycled all our way across four of Cuba’s municipalities- the Vedado built around the 1920 with its beautiful houses falling into ruin... the political centre - a concrete plaza surrounded by grey concrete buildings emblazoned with the fathers of socialist Cuba on them.. the old entrance to Chinatown - no longer home to any Chinese who left after all the businesses were nationalised.. the forest - so beautiful and green... the Malacon - all the way along the beachless seafront and behind the magnificent Hotel National, and finally back through old Havana.

    It was exhilarating and exhausting. Hours of riding through traffic and up hills, trying our best to avoid potholes (which are everywhere).

    We stopped at 10 historic sites and at each stop we heard a little more about the history of this country and about Cuban life today from our guide Marcel.

    He told us about the compulsory 2 years of military service (only one if you can prove you go to University). The ration book that allows each person 12 eggs, a portion of rice, flour and chicken each month. And the average monthly salary? $25.

    ‘Can you be a vegetarian?’ Asked Charley. Marcel laughed at the question. ‘No you can’t,’ he answered. ‘And sometimes the vegetables get lost are you can’t get any from the shops for weeks.’

    Marcel has an engineering degree majoring in telecommunications and electronics but there are no jobs in this field and tourism is the only industry that pays well - he explained that the lawyers and other professionals are the lowest paid on a set government salary, whilst the taxi drivers and tour guides do well.

    It’s a country unlike any other - incredibly expensive for tourists who pay US prices for a plate of rice, beans and fish or chicken. Fancy western stores sit next door to the simplest, almost empty, drab stores for locals. The newest hotel - houses in a restored department store charges $1000 per room per night and is changing the face of the centre. And there’s a strong anti American sentiment from the locals.

    By the time we returned the bikes to the garage, we were absolutely exhausted, slightly sunburnt and very hungry.
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  • Day 13

    Classic Cars

    December 27, 2018 in Cuba ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Marcel recommended a restaurant for lunch - rice and prawns for me.. spaghetti for Mitch and Alex and chicken for Charley. Amazing how boring the flavours are without the herbs and spices you would expect in such a vibrant place.

    We briefly returned to the hotel to change out of our sweaty cycling clothes and get ready for our next adventure - a tour of Havana in a classic car.

    Mitch was so excited to find out what kind of car we would be allocated - and thrilled to discover it was a yellow and white Ford.

    We basically covered the same footprint as our morning ride, but everything looked so different from the road - and we had plenty of time to take photos with the car.

    The tour ended at sunset with a drink at the historic Hotel National - another place I visited with Ben 18 years ago. I remember at that time talking about bringing our kids back here one day and I sensed his pleasure at my fulfilling the promise.

    We all had a mojito (mine with rum, the kids’ virgins) on the verandah and it all felt very special.

    The car dropped us back at the hotel, and although only Mitch was hungry, after a brief rest we headed out for dinner.

    Our plan was to return to a nice looking restaurant we had passed the night before, but as we walked a cook from a neighboring hotel asked where we were going and recommended another place 3 blocks away - 3 flights up. We thanked her with. I intention of taking her advice. A few steps further on another local stopped and asked where we were from and recommended we try the same place. Obviously there’s some kind of scheme here, but we couldn’t work it out and felt we didn’t have anything to lose.

    La Familia couldn’t be seen by the street- only accessed by a winding narrow staircase and we were suddenly nervous to commit to what we couldn’t see. But once we were up - on the rooftop of a very simple but authentic place, listening to a live Cuban guitar duo- we were thrilled we took the advice.

    The food was simple but fine. The music really good. During a break from playing, one of the guitarists came over to say hello and I made him understand Mitch also plays. He invited Mitch up to play with them and it was a wonderful experience - Mitch improvising on a Cuban guitar (very different to a normal
    acoustic). The players began singing and accompanying Mitch, obviously impressed with how well he was playing. It was all very special and he loved every minute.
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  • Day 14

    Street Art

    December 28, 2018 in Cuba ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Another stunning - but humid Havana day. After breakfast we walked across Parque Central to meet our guide Miguel.

    He drove us about 20 minutes out of town to a fishing village now known as ‘Fusterlandia’ - after the local artist who decided during the early 1990’s to boost the morale of his community by decorating the outside of his house with mosaic tiles.

    The locals so loved the Gaudi-esque effect they asked him to do theirs and the whole project grew to cover almost the entire neighborhood. Now, Fustre’s house is a tourist attraction and his artworks sell for thousands of dollars.

    We all absolutely loved the whimsical, colourful effect and could have stayed much longer exploring the other houses. But we had to move on.

    We were then taken to three other artistic neighbourhoods - none as immersive as Fustre’s, but all so impactful on the local area.

    One consisted artworks made entirely from recycled objects, and made a political statement with the artists use of colours.

    Another was inspired by the local hairdressers and barbers who encouraged cafe and restaurant operators to establish outdoor eateries amongst the artwork. They even created a children’s playground with all of the equipment inspired by elements found in a barber’s shop.

    It was a fascinating and uplifting morning which really reminded us of what can be achieved by one person’s vision and creativity.
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  • Day 14

    Music for Mitch

    December 28, 2018 in Cuba ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    After the tour, we returned to Barber’s Alley for lunch.

    It was hot and we needed a rest and this area is so charming we broke the well known law of never eating in a plaza. The food was great - service terrible, but worth it to have a salad. Charley was devastated to learn the crepes listed on the menu were unavailable, but it was hard to stay disappointed in such an extraordinary setting.

    We walked back to the hotel and then set out to the Havana Music School to meet Mitch’s teacher - Miguel.

    The music school is in a residential area about 15 minutes from Old Havana, and consists of a smallish house within which we could hear music coming from every room. Miguel was young and handsome and seemed very friendly. We all hoped Mitch would enjoy the lesson - and he really, really did! We could hear wonderful drumming and singing from Miguel accompanying Mitch on the guitar, and Mitch was thrilled with what he’d learned.

    By the time we left, it was dark outside and although Miguel walked us to the Main Street there were no taxis at all. He suggested we walk to the nearby local bus on the main road and told us which bus to catch back to Old Havana. Alex was freaking out at the idea of walking in the dark as well as taking a local bus and that was hard to manage, but the others were excited by this authentic peek onto Cuban daily life. We arrived back quite close to our hotel but didn’t recognise any of the landmarks in the dark... luckily a local man saw our confusion and gave us directions which saw us safely back.

    By now we were all starving and heading back to Barber’s Alley for dinner - another atmospheric restaurant with very average food. We got lost walking back to the hotel- passing streets and squares we hadn’t come across before. It was such a warm and humid night it felt so lovely strolling around the city.
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  • Day 15

    Shopping, sweating and salsa

    December 29, 2018 in Cuba ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    There were no planned activities this morning so we slept in and started slowly. It was incredibly hot and humid today - almost unpleasant.

    After breakfast, the girls and I left Mitch relaxing in the room while we went shopping for trinkets and souvenirs.

    We walked the length of Obispo - the long narrow street that runs the length of the old city. It’s the main shopping street for tourists and is always crammed with pedestrians and music.

    In truth, there is not much to buy in Havana -
    and each shop carried the same range of handicrafts, cigars and rum. We bought presents for family and a few small pieces of jewellery and t-shirts for the kids and then walked back to Mitch.

    Despite the heat the atmosphere is exciting, and we enjoyed being out amongst the people.

    We then walked across town in search of a creperie that had been recommended by the Swedes we met on our bike tour. Charley has been craving crepes after feeling too poorly in Mexico to indulge, and this was her moment. The place was tricky to find, but in getting lost we stumbled on charming plazas we hadn’t seen previously.

    After 2 crepes each for lunch, we headed to Vedado for our salsa lesson. It was such a fun couple of hours! Each of us was allocated a teacher who showed us the steps and slowly built on a routine we all managed to execute by the end. There was lots of laughter - and lots of sweating!

    Back to the hotel for a rest and a shower before dinner at the very upscale Kempinski Hotel across the square. We got there early to enjoy the view over a (virgin) mojito by the rooftop pool before going inside for dinner.

    Mitch was in heaven- steak!! He’s been craving one for days and this was fabulous. I forgot to ask where it had been imported from, but it was definitely not local.

    We all ate well and it felt like a special last night in this fabulous city.
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  • Day 17

    Playa del Carmen

    December 31, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Last morning in Havana and we were all SO sad to leave. It’s been the most amazing and perfect part of the trip and nobody was ready for that to end.

    We decided to forgo the very atmospheric - but so, so bland buffet breakfast at the hotel in favor of an alfresco brekkie near the square we stumbled on yesterday.

    Today was magnificent- slightly cooler than yesterday but with a clear blue sky and no humidity.

    Breakfast was simple- eggs, bacon, coffee, juice. But we loved being outside in the middle of the street, listening to live music in the sunshine.

    All too soon it was time to go to the airport - Cancun bound.

    It was a very bumpy descent and upon landing we quickly discovered why- it was pouring with rain. Still warm, but a thick grey cloud covered the coastal city and we hurried to our transport getting soaked on the way.

    Playa del Carmen is about a half hour drive from Cancun and it was difficult to see much. But the Grand Hyatt was beautiful - a very new resort which has been magnificently fitted out. We are all in one very spacious room with 2 queen beds. We took a quick look around in the dark and could see everything being prepared for tomorrow night’s New Year’s Eve party.

    By 7.30 - having reconnected with the world through social media and phone calls, we were hungry. (After all lunch was a packet of Pringles and a Toblerone)...

    We headed to the main strip - 5th Ave and found it teeming with life - big chain stores jostled for attention next to souvenir shops and tex-mex cuisine alongside Italian versus steakhouses.

    Before we had time to choose, the heavens opened again and we ducked inside a nearby Texas BBQ restaurant. Everyone was happy- nachos, tacos and a Texas bbq burger. Huge American-sized portions with a Mexican influence.

    And then suddenly everyone was exhausted. We went for a short stroll along the avenue before heading back for the last sleep of 2018.
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  • Day 17

    Farewell 2018..

    December 31, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    It was the nicest way to end the year- a gorgeous day spent in luxurious surroundings, lying by the pool overlooking the ocean.

    Everything was wonderful - the buffet breakfast, the weather, the view... it was relaxed and very holiday-ish.

    We ate lunch on 5th Ave and the girls went shopping at the American stores - spending ages in Forever 21!

    We looked for somewhere to have dinner - everything was fixed price tonight - even the food court - starting at $US75!
    We decided instead to get a pizza (take away) before attending the New Year’s Eve party at the hotel - $US 60 for access which includes no food - just music and fireworks. But last year I promised Alex a good NYE party and so she got one.

    We danced until it began to rain, then ran for cover and waited it out. Danced again until the midnight fireworks and went to bed just before 1pm. Goodbye 2018- you were hard work!
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  • Day 18

    Welcome 2019

    January 1, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Buffet breakfast... swim... sunbake... stroll down 5th Ave.. buy trinkets for presents and souvenirs... repeat.

    It’s such a horrifically overpriced town, I am now resigned to ignoring the prices to do what we like because bargains are impossible to find. Hiring a cabana by the hotel poolside today cost $US175 - crazy!!! So there’s no point stressing. For these 4 days we will pay what we need to. But it’s certainly not the sleepy relaxed beach town Ben and I visited all those years ago.Read more

  • Day 20

    Fun in the sun

    January 3, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I have to say it’s been easy to get used to this slothful way of life - especially after the early starts and intense touring (which is also waiting for us in Guatemala).

    I’ve offered the kids a choice of activities; scuba diving, swimming with dolphins, visiting the ruins at Tulum or even a massage - they say ‘yes’ to everything - but perhaps tomorrow. And now this is our last full day and we’ve done none of this. And no one is complaining.Read more