Waipu to Waitangi Treaty Grounds

Our first full day in New Zealand was a busy one with lots of things seen on our way from Waipu to Whangarei.

The first stop on our way was A. H. Reed Memorial Kauri Park. In this park we walked a short trail through a small forest and I saw my first kauri trees. The older these trees get, the wider their trunks become. They are native to New Zealand and very special. We walked over the canopy walk, a bridge in the middle of some trees over a stream which was a nice addition to the trail. A further 10-15 minutes in had us at a small waterfall before we walked back to the car.

The next stop was Whangarei Falls, a waterfall in the middle of a park area. You walk across the grass to a viewing area to the falls and then the pool directly down beneath you. Then, we walked across a low bridge over water that flows over the rock face to form the waterfall. It looks like that bridge could be dangerous when it rains because it's not far from the water. We went across to get a view from the other side, but the vantage point was better at the first spot.

After the falls we stopped at the Natural Soda Spring at the side of the road on our way to the Hunterwasser Toilets. The spring is right next to the road and bubbles up in an area no bigger than a soccer ball. It flows down a naturally carved ramp into a stream below. Allan filled up his water bottle here and had a good drink. He was surprised by how naturally carbonated it was. I had a small sip, but it mostly tasted of mineral water to me, which it probably is full of. Not long after the spring we stopped at the Hunterwasser Toilets. The toilets are designed by a German artist who was found of the village. They had colorful glass and different colored glass bottles to form windows. We also walked to a colorful building and I loved the decoration and designs on the sidewalk all around the outside of the building. They were so colorful and playful.

We were finally on our way to Watangi and the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. The treaty grounds are very culturally and historically significant. It was at this location that the treaty between Maori and the British was signed on February 6, 1840. The grounds have the original house of a British man who mediated with the Maori and in front of the house is where the treaty was signed. There are also two museums and a Maori meeting house. Across the bay is Russell, where a bustling shipping port used to be in the 1800s and was rife with bad behavior and debauchery. It was Russell and the poor conduct of the British there that prompted the Maori to reach out to the British government to get its citizens in line.

The first thing we did at the treaty grounds was walk around and view a short film about the grounds and the unique nature of the Maori and British relationship. After the 20 minute film, we walked up to the Meeting House past the Busby House. Inside the Meeting House we were treated to a short half hour cultural performance which brought me back to my Hawaii days. There was singing, dancing, poi, and stick games. The building was also beautiful with intricately carved statues of Maori warrior totems and red, black and white all around. As we sat on the cushioned benches in the meeting house, I felt a small sense of home and understanding. Even though it's not my culture, it's familiar to me and a part of my own history.

After our cultural performance we went on a guided tour. Our tour guide was great. She was passionate and very knowledgeable about the treaty and conflicts between Maori and the British. She walked us from the Meeting House and took us through the grounds past the Busby House giving us the historical context for the treaty. British missionaries had formed relationships with the Maori and were equally unhappy about the debauchery across the bay in Russell. The missionaries also helped the Maori establish written language to match their oral language. Also, when the Maori first started to trade internationally, their goods were seized as if they were pirates because they didn't have a recognized maritime flag, so the missionaries also helped create a Maori flag. This flag flies on the grounds level with the British flag with the New Zealand flag in the middle above both of them.

We continued through the grounds, our guide constantly explaining the complex history and relationships between the peoples (it's really fascinating). I still find it so interesting how the Maori managed to gain some respect and equality with the British during colonization when all other aboriginal and indigenous peoples didn't. I mean, their rights were still unjustly trampled after the treaty signing, but they had that document to fall back on. They are also the only peoples that the UK monarchy has made formal apology to.

Further down to the lower grounds we saw Maori war boats, wakas. One of them is the largest in the world crewed by over a hundred men. It was made out of 3 kauri trees which are apparently great for boats because they soak up the salt water and become very buoyant. Every year on Waitangi Day, February 6, the boat is brought out and paddled around the bay by descendants of the original members present at Waitangi in 1840. It's a great honor for them. Also in this area were the remains of a great kauri tree. It was huge! I can only imagine what it would have looked like when it was alive. They are very majestic trees. During the British invasion in the 1800s, and onwards, over 97% of the kauri trees were cut down. Very sad.

Our tour continued over a small bridge where eel live and back to the gift shop near the entrance. The guide gave us so much information I could never write it all down here, but it was a very worthwhile experience. We walked back up to the main area to take pictures now that most of the crowds had left. We also walked around the Busby House and learned more about James Busby, who had the unfortunate job of trying to sort out the unruly behavior and treat with the Maori. He was given no weapons, no authority, and no soldiers, so in actuality could do fuck all to make things better. However, he did his best and had an open door policy for grievances and formed good relationships with the Maori helping them with the flag and their Declaration of Independence a few years before the treaty. He did also have a hand in organizing the treaty.

After we took our pictures and had a good wander around the grounds, we left and went back to the hotel to get checked in. On our way to the hotel we stopped at Haruru Falls, a short but long waterfall less than five minutes from the hotel. The sun has set, and it was a bit drizzly, so the waterfall looked extra moody.

After we got checked in, we went to the grocery store down the street, got some supplies, and went back to cook dinner. We watched a bit of Netflix while we ate before having showers and spending the next several hours on admin and trying to plan. Unsurprisingly, we went to bed past one, much later than planned and wanted. One of these days we'll go to bed early 🤦‍♀️.Read more