To Doubtful Sound

Thursday 10th November
We checked out of Peppers Beacon for one night as we are going on an overnight cruise along Doubtful Sound in a schooner. We are only allowed one small bag, as usual I took far too much and consequently my bag was very heavy - I do need to work on my travelling light method. The coach picked us up from outside the hotel, and from there it was a 3½ hour drive to the ferry which was to take us across Lake Manapouri. Another coach was waiting for us as we docked and drove us a further hour to the head of Doubtful Sound where we boarded our schooner. We had our own cabins on the upper deck which were surprisingly spacious with en-suite facilities. A lot of others were sharing quad cabins which sounded rather basic bunk bed facilities separated by curtains in the lower deck of the boat. The boat dropped anchor about 45minutes after we had set sail; there were various water based activities on offer. Peter decided to join the kayaking activity, about 24 in total went out. It looked very tiring as they kayaked around the Fiord. Janet and I preferred to join one of the smaller boats that went out to explore the surrounding flora and fauna. Once everyone was back on board there was the opportunity to go swimming in the Sound. The water is both fresh water and salt, the salt water being heavier sinks below the fresh which sits on top. It is also coloured a rich brown by all the tannins washed into the water from the surrounding mountains and trees. Quite a lot of people went in, some slipped in from the landing stage for the kayaks whilst some climbed a ladder and jumped from the first floor! Even the crew joined in, jumping and diving in. Everyone said it was very cold, but seemed to enjoy it as many went in for more.

Soup and a roll was served afterwards at about 5pm, but I didn’t fancy any, it was too soon after lunch for me. The boat then sailed on the length of the Sound to a fur seal colony at the mouth. We moved to the front of the top deck to try to get a good view. It was really windy and cold, luckily we had zipped back to our cabins to put on an extra layer before venturing up there. A large rock rose from the sea and all over it basked seals, some pups were playing, chasing each other around on the rock watched by their mothers whilst the large bulls kept an eye on their cows to make sure they didn’t stray. Moving away from the seals the boat sailed towards the edge of the shore where some yellow eyed penguins were spotted. Onwards the boat continued into the open ocean, the Tasmin Sea where there are some of the roughest waters in the world. The crew said the waters were quite calm but to us as we pitched up and down, tossed in the waves, it seemed anything but. I should have taken Janet’s offer of one of her accustraps which she swears prevents seasickness. Everyone was alert, looking for whales, but alas once more they evaded us, no sign of them at all. Eventually our little boat turned its prow back towards calmer waters and we sailed from the turbulent sea into the relative calm of the Sound. Our fingers and noses were quite numb by now so we decided to go back inside. Dinner was a delicious buffet affair. After dinner there was an optional talk on New Zealand flora. The boat was at anchor and it was very peaceful outside. Janet and I walked around on the deck in the dark, it was amazing how many noises we could hear coming from the forests on shore. Many birds we could not identify as well as many other noises from unknown creatures. The stars twinkled in the sky above and I saw a shooting star and what I think was a satellite, either that or it was an alien, but I think the satellite is more likely. It was very peaceful and serene.Read more