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- Day 1
- Saturday, October 22, 2016 at 6:52 PM
- 🌙 10 °C
- Altitude: 21 m
EnglandHeathrow Terminal 351°28’10” N 0°27’35” W
Home to Heathrow T3

Saturday 22nd October
This year’s holiday is a special one as its Pete’s 60th year, so to celebrate we have decided to go to New Zealand via Hong Kong on the way out and Bangkok on the return leg. Accompanying us is our very own hobbit Janet, who those of you who followed our travels around Canada will remember. Janet ensures we know where all the public loos are and is our official map reader and site spotter, she is better than any TomTom.
Since our flight is not leaving Heathrow until 22:15 we decided to take advantage and spend some time in the lounge. Our chauffeur Frances, who we have used many times before, picked us up as arranged and carried on to scoop up Janet in Kings Langley. From there we zoomed straight through to terminal 3 at Heathrow with no hold ups. Bit of a panic at check in as Peter spotted the cabin luggage being weighed and I knew mine was well over the allowance. Frantically I was trying to empty as much heavy stuff as I could and stuff it into my waistcoat pockets, whilst at the same time trying to look nonchalant. I was doing it even as we stood in front of the check in desk. After all the panic our check in clerk did not weigh our bags so I needn’t have worried. Juggling bags, plastic bags and electronic items to keep them separate we went through security and it was not until we got to the lounge that Janet realised she had lost her boarding pass! She and I retraced our steps but couldn’t find it. She was cross with herself, but was consoled that another one could be printed at boarding and she also found one she had printed at home that should suffice. So now to settle down and enjoy the food, drink and ambient atmosphere. Quick update, the missing boarding pass has been located in Peter’s pocket!!!Read more
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- Day 3
- Monday, October 24, 2016 at 1:35 AM
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Altitude: 25 m
Hong KongTin Hau Temple (HK Island)22°16’59” N 114°11’31” E
Dubai to Hong Kong – stains and luggage

Sunday 23rd October
We are flying the first leg to Hong Kong with Emirates Air on board an Airbus 380, which is a seriously BIG plane with an upstairs as well! Sadly, this is not somewhere we will be venturing. We were slightly delayed whilst the baggage for a missing passenger was offloaded. Janet managed to knock her glass of water over herself, fortunately she had a change of clothes in her hand baggage so went into the loos to change. When she returned she showed us her damp trousers which had a very suspicious brown mark on the bottom. She sniffed it and reassured us it was melted chocolate! Her story was that she had somehow sat on the small square of chocolate that came with the meal and it had melted onto her trousers. A fine story!
We arrived at Hong Kong at 22:00. All was going swimmingly until we got to baggage reclaim. My case appeared, but that was it, Janet’s and Peter’s luggage were nowhere to be seen. There seemed to be a lot of angry passengers who similarly were missing their luggage. After interrogating a local baggage attendant who spoke little English we joined a long queue on the other side of the vast baggage reclaim room where a guy reassured us that this happened all the time on flights from Dubai. They often left a container of luggage behind. He said the luggage would be arriving the following day on the next plane in from Dubai, around 18:00 hours and it would be transferred to our hotel. Our theory is that when they had to offload the luggage for the missing passenger, rather than locating his case and possibly missing their flying window, they simply took off the container which had his luggage in it. We have been told we can claim for replacement clothing from Emirates so will go shopping tomorrow.
Fortunately our taxi transfer was still waiting for us in arrivals and we were transported to our hotel overlooking the bay. Peter popped into the Circle K corner shop over the road and got some milk and we are now sat in bed, showered and relaxing with a nice cuppa at 2am.Read more
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- Day 3
- Monday, October 24, 2016 at 11:20 PM
- 🌙 26 °C
- Altitude: 25 m
Hong KongTin Hau Temple (HK Island)22°16’59” N 114°11’31” E
Hong Kong – its pants!

Monday 24th October
We slept surprisingly well given the beds are very hard. I expected to wake up aching all over, but not so, it was a great night’s sleep only to be woken by Janet ringing half an hour before breakfast to ask about the note by the bed which said if you left it on the bed they won’t change the bed linen -seems rather extravagant to change it every day. Breakfast is a strange arrangement; you get one breakfast voucher per room not per guest so Janet’s is inclusive and for us we have to pay for one breakfast. Never come across that way of doing it before. Still, apart from that the food is good and plentiful so we enjoyed it all and decided we had best set out to buy some clothes in case the cases didn’t turn up. Our hotel directed us to the Causeway Mall which was about a 10 minute walk away. As soon as we stepped outside the hotel the heat and humidity hit us, it was incredible and within a few minutes we were all drenched in sweat. Shops became a refuge and we frequently lurked in the doorways feigning interest in the shops whilst taking full advantage of the blast of cold air from the air-conditioning. The Causeway Mall was a bit of a disappointment as it turned out to be a designer shopping mall, with the exception of good old M&S. Thinking we were bound to find suitable clothes in there, we separated and each went to look. Janet found a top in the sale which was reasonably priced and we met up with Peter outside also carrying an M&S bag. He had bought some socks, pants and a belt, wait for it, for £95!! I had to repeat the price back to him several times and got him to show me the receipt before I would believe it. Even so I couldn’t comprehend him spending such an extortionate amount on a few undies. Under normal circumstances in the UK he wouldn’t dream of spending that much. I asked if he didn’t think it was a bit pricy when he got to the till, and he looked a bit sheepish and said he had thought so but put it down to Hong Kong being an expensive place. Still I’ll remember this when he next says anything about the price of something I want. After several hours exploring various back streets and markets we were beginning to wilt and went into a local café. It was the first one we saw that advertised English Breakfast Tea! Not an opportunity to be missed, the food was delicious and the tea was Twinings, doubly good.
Our hotel has a pool on the roof, the 39th floor, not a big one, but a lovely spot to relax and take in the views of the city and harbour.
Hong Kong is a very busy city, packed with high rise buildings both commercial and residential. There are skinny double decker trams running along all the main roads together with small single decker, battered up buses that are rusty and rather shabby but I imagine are cheap to use as they always seem packed with locals. This evening we got the underground from Tin Hau underground station right opposite our hotel to the Temple night market which was an interesting place to wander around. Peter and Janet had a chinese at a local café and I had a ghastly cup of tea, made with condensed milk and very strong. We asked for glasses of water but instead of refreshing iced water, were brought hot water, we repeated our request but simply got more glasses of hot water. By now our table was filled with glasses of steaming water however, glancing around the café we noticed that everyone else was drinking hot water. Returning to our hotel we were horrified to discover our cases, which had been promised by 18:00 had not arrived and it was now 20:00. Panic started to set in and we asked the concierge to telephone Emirates to chase the missing cases. After a call he assured us they would arrive by 22:00. We sat in the bar and were pleasantly surprised when he came down to us at 21:30 and, showing us a photo on his phone, enquired if these were our cases – they were!! Much relief and smiles all round.
Some pictures of the views from the top our hotel and the pool as well as the trams and the better cup of tea!Read more
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- Day 4
- Tuesday, October 25, 2016 at 9:58 PM
- 🌙 25 °C
- Altitude: 29 m
Hong KongTin Hau Temple (HK Island)22°16’58” N 114°11’34” E
HK, Pirates, parrots & polystyrene boxes

Tuesday 25th October
Today we explored the city by train, ferry, tram and foot. It has been an absolutely exhausting day but we have seen so much. All visitors to Hong Kong recommend going to the Peak. This is the tallest point in Hong Kong sitting behind all the high-rise buildings and covered with thick undergrowth and trees. There are roads up it and the intrepid hike up but most ordinary people take the tram. The queue for tickets was 1½ hours, but we finally joined the crowd to board the tram finding ourselves by good fortune 5th from the front. We noticed two French ladies duck into the priority queue lane and move to the front of the queue. They transferred back to our lane and then promptly pulled their husbands and a friend forward, ignoring protests and fierce looks. They boarded and dived into the front seats which afforded the best view. We were all very annoyed at their arrogance and rudeness in pushing to the front of the queue. Alighting from the tram at the top of the peak there were then a further 3 or 4 levels up via escalator. However, it was worth it once we finally got to the pinnacle. The views were tremendous, right over the city across the harbour and beyond. Although it was still very sunny, it was also refreshingly cooler at the top with a gentle breeze blowing. I asked a guy who I thought looked like he knew about photography as he had a large SLR around his neck to take a photo of Pete and I at the top. You can see from the photo that whilst he got us well positioned in the shot he failed to mention that Pete had the tie from his hat hanging over his forehead and his audio guide dangling around his ears. Pete was unimpressed and thinks he looks like a pirate, however I nearly cried with laughter when reviewing the day’s photos back in the hotel. After our photoshoot, we stopped for a cup of tea and a bite to eat at one of the cafes on the peak then made our way back down via the tram.
The aviary in Hong Kong park sounded interesting so we took a very leisurely stroll in that direction. All forms of exercise here are exhausting due to the heat and the high humidity, and we found stairs especially challenging so we were not best pleased to see that in order to get to the aviary there were about 70 stairs to climb. It looked very like the Snowdon Aviary in London Zoo, but on a much much bigger scale, I’m not sure which was built first and who copied who. Visitors walked along a high boardwalk with strategic seating and feeding stations for the over 600 varieties of exotic birds there. Huge mature trees reached skyward, their berries providing a welcome treat for the birds, way down below a large pond and stream was host to some beautiful pheasants and wildfowl. Paraqueets flew round and round screeching loudly whilst cheeky Mynahs, black with golden eyes and a distinctive call bobbed on the branches; we watched one pop into a hole in a tall dead tree where it appeared to be rearing young. Its mate sat on the branch outside keeping watch. The more numerous white Mynahs with bright blue skin around their eyes were quite fearless and walked along the rails next to people cocking their heads and fixing them with a beady stare. Java sparrows darted back and forth, gathering in small groups on the swinging vine roots that hung between the trees below the boardwalk. Such pretty little birds. We spent a long time in the aviary, enjoying relaxing on the seats whilst watching and listening to the birdsong all around.
From Hong Kong Park it was a long walk to the ferry port where we caught a small, old, rusty but very serviceable passenger ferry for the princely sum of $2 about 14p across the harbour. By now evening was fast approaching and we needed to find somewhere to have our meal. As well as being constantly accosted by people trying to get us to go and have a suit made, we seemed to be in the jewellery quarter, top end shops – Tiffany, Cartier, Rolex to name but a few were all around, not much chance of finding a little café here so wearily we turned down some side roads to find the foodie centre. Finally, we chanced upon a road lined with all sorts of eating places. After a filling meal of salmon, risotto, and omelettes between us we were too tired to return to the ferry port so we caught the tube back to our hotel. Just before we descended into the station something caught my eye in the middle of the traffic on the road, it was a guy manoeuvring a load of polystyrene boxes roped together and stacked on a sack trolley, behind him he pulled more polystyrene boxes. It was quite bizarre and like something on UTube. How he didn’t get knocked over or spill all the boxes all over the road is a wonder. The underground in Hong Kong is very like the London underground but much much busier, it was quite incredible really. As one train pulled out of a station so another arrived within a few seconds. Waiting crowds surged forward onto the train and you are carried forward and crammed in. The whole operation is very efficient with no hassle; everyone stands obediently in line waiting their turn. You certainly wouldn’t come to Hong Kong for a quiet relaxing break.Read more
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- Day 5
- Wednesday, October 26, 2016
- ☀️ 28 °C
- Altitude: 10 m
Hong KongBlake Pier22°17’17” N 114°9’1” E
Bye Bye Hong Kong

Wednesday 26th October
We had a morning to kill before our airport transfer at 14:10 so after a quick discussion we decided to have a ride on the trams and go looking for a new camera for Janet. Her current camera is very old and is playing up. She is worried that it will break completely and she won’t be able to take any photos of the scenery in New Zealand. As Hong Kong is supposedly one of the hot spots for all things IT it seems a good place to look for one. There is a tram stop right outside our hotel so we jump on the first one that comes along – a nice little orange number and climb to the top deck where the windows are all open and we can ride along enjoying the views with the wind blowing through our hair. When we get to some likely looking shops we hop off, these trams are excellent value, it’s a fixed rate of $2.30 adult or $1.10 senior however long the journey (that’s approx. 25p or 10p). The guy in the photographic shop was lovely, the sort of person you feel an instant affinity to. He looked around 50 and spoke pretty good English. Cameras were clearly a passion of his as he spoke very knowledgeably about them but he did laugh out loud when Janet showed him her existing camera and declared it an antique or vintage one. A deal was struck for a new camera, and he threw in an extra battery, a case and an SD card. We did check the price he charged at another shop and it seemed very good especially even without the freebies thrown in. All the way back to the hotel Janet tried out her new toy, happily snapping away. The results looked very good and she is very pleased with her purchase.
We arranged for an earlier pick up to the airport and were pleased we did as HK airport is vast and it took quite sometime to go through security. We did manage to have a couple of hours in the lounge, but for such a large airport we thought it was not as good as others we have been in.
Air New Zealand is known as a budget airline and we can certainly concur with that view. It was very cramped with narrow seats and limited leg room. The aisles were so narrow that every time someone walked down them you were knocked if you had an aisle seat, even if you tucked yourself in. Their only redeeming feature was that they had the most marvellous air stewardesses who were sassy and great fun. None of us slept for the 11 hour overnight flight, we were too uncomfortable and were delighted when we landed the following day in New Zealand at 11am local timeRead more
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- Day 7
- Friday, October 28, 2016 at 5:43 AM
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Altitude: 41 m
New ZealandMt Eden36°52’37” S 174°44’55” E
Verandas and an Essex Girl!

Thursday 27th October
Well at least Air New Zealand didn’t lose our luggage! The immigration and passport clearance at Auckland airport was very smooth, well that is apart from the drug dog liking my camera bag and my having to open it up for inspection in the baggage hall; I did explain I had had some digestive biscuits in there and that seemed to explain it.
We got a taxi to our first B&B, Eden Park, 20 Bellwood Ave, Mount Eden, Auckland. It is a lovely house situated down a quiet residential road in Eden Park with about 4 rooms, all very sumptuously decorated, a real little gem of a place. What a find!! They have a gorgeous dog, Darcey, who is a 6½ yr old cockerpoo. He is very friendly and has a silky soft wavy honey coloured coat. We lost no time in putting on a brew and having a welcome shower. Feeling much refreshed we went into town to do our laundry and whilst it was washing we went to a super little tea shop we had spotted earlier where Janet and I had toasted buttered home cooked banana cake and Peter had a huge sausage roll. Delicious! Eden Park is a suburb on the outskirts of Auckland. It is full of tree clad avenues of pastel coloured, timber clad bungalows most with wide verandas that wrap around the front and sides of the buildings. Bistro tables with a couple of chairs sit invitingly on the verandas, some with couples sitting there sipping a cool beer or a cuppa. It is a lovely time of year to be here, spring is in full flow. Blossom is everywhere as are the early spring flowers. There is an extinct volcano on the edge of Eden Park that now has grass growing over it and a winding road up to the summit where you can enjoy commanding views of the surrounding area. The high street is wide and long with a good variety of shops. There are few large chain stores but sadly there is a McDonalds! They seem to get everywhere! Much to our delight there is no shortage of coffee shops, all looking very inviting with very scrummy cakes on display.
Dinner tonight at an Irish pub, The Clare Inn at the top of the road, it was highly recommended by our hosts. A delicious meal beautifully presented, more like some gastronomic restaurant at a very reasonable cost. Our waitress was a girl from Essex who is travelling around but needs to earn a bit of dosh to keep going, she has been in NZ for 3 months but hopes to go onto South America next. Janet was exhausted and nearly falling asleep in her food, Peter was also tired but oddly I feel more awake now. Hopefully by the time I curl up to sleep I will be tired as well and won’t lie awake for ages.Read more
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- Day 8
- Saturday, October 29, 2016 at 10:50 PM
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Altitude: 53 m
New ZealandNewmarket36°51’44” S 174°46’56” E
Tea £20 a cup!!!!

Friday 28th October
We all had a disturbed night’s sleep and are suffering to varying degrees from jet lag. For me whenever I sit down I nod off. So, for instance this morning we were booked to take a city tour by bus. There weren’t many on the tour, some Chinese tourists, some Italians and us but more or less as soon as we were seated I started to fall asleep, it was quite alarming. It was a good tour and the driver gave an interesting running commentary of the various landmarks and historical facts but I heard little of it. The 4 Italians sat at the front and jabbered away in Italian as we were trying to listen. In the end, I tapped the fella on the shoulder and asked him quite firmly to be quiet, Janet also endorsed it. After that they sat quietly like naughty children and only whispered occasionally. The Harbour Cruise only had a few people and once again as soon as I settled down I was snoozing. Returning to Auckland Harbour we did a bit of shopping in a large department store, Farmers where we bought some perfume to bring home as surprisingly it was cheaper than duty free. Feeling hungry, we popped into an Italian restaurant that had a good range of fish and pasta dishes and had a delicious meal. By now Janet and I were so tired we just wanted to go back and get to bed, Peter was faring better and had a clearer mind. Jet lag affects people differently, for Janet she found she got very muddled and could not work anything out, like what to pay or what currency we were in now, but for me it was like I was in a fog and I was actually hallucinating and hearing and seeing people and things I knew were not there, it was very odd. Janet bought 3 teas for us and came back telling us they were NZD91 that’s about £60, or £20 a cup!! I looked at her stunned, ‘how much?’ I said, she repeated it and added for good measure that she had given NZD100 and had the change. It was fast becoming another £95 pants moment. After more questioning we established that in fact the change was NZD91 not the cost of the tea! Janet’s jet lag brain.
We fancied trying out the local buses to get us back – it was only about 5k, but first we had to work out which bus and then where to catch it. We knew where the bus terminal was as that was where our morning city tour had left from and it was right by the Sky Tower – a major landmark that was not easy to miss. Once we arrived at the bus terminal we asked the lady at the counter for advice on which bus to catch and where to get it. She started to look it up on her computer when all hell broke loose. A rather scruffy and dirty man aged around 60ish and a bit of a vagrant I suppose, raced in and, walking straight up to the desk next to us and, demanded she call the police. He gesticulated to a woman who had just walked in behind him and said she was wanted by the police. She looked very dishevelled and in need of a bath. Her right hand had a piece of cloth wrapped around it and she wore a cloth bandana fashioned into a skull cap pulled over her head. She walked over to him and they had a terse, angry exchange of words in which she said she was not coming home. It appeared as if she was his daughter. Janet who had been standing next to her swiftly moved away and stood behind Peter, leaving me stood next to the crazy lady. The customer services lady explained that she was assisting us and that she would help the scruffy man and the crazy lady in a moment. Crazy lady walked a few steps away to wait, seemingly appeased for now. In the meantime, the customer services lady made a telephone call and handed the phone to scruffy man to speak to the police. He took the phone and walked away to speak without being overheard by crazy lady, who now decided she wasn’t going to wait any longer and returned to my side at the desk. She asked me what I wanted. Hoping she wasn’t going to pull a knife on me or hit me, I explained with my biggest smile that I wanted to know which bus to get to Eden Park and where to get it. She professed to know and went on to direct me to the bus stop. Keen to get away from the situation we thanked her and made for the door leaving the customer services assistant, who gamely called out – ‘it’s a red bus you want’ to sort out the feud and presumably deal with the police. Her directions turned out to be partly right, but it took quite a bit of walking round, asking bus drivers and checking maps and timetables pinned up in bus stops before we found the right bus. The driver was very sweet and along with another passenger on the bus they got us to the right bus stop right at the end of our road. I think they took pity on us in the end and the driver even gave us a refund as we got off early.Read more
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- Day 9
- Sunday, October 30, 2016 at 12:15 AM
- 🌙 8 °C
- Altitude: 280 m
New ZealandRotorua38°8’28” S 176°14’20” E
Hobbiton and Hot Pools

Saturday 29th October Daily Mileage 274
Cumulative Mileage 274
We had a tight schedule today so Peter got up early and went to collect our hire car – Toyota Rav 4 4x4. After another of Marlene’s wonderful breakfasts that set you up for the day we were ready to hit the road. Today is one of the highlights of our trip, we are going to Hobbiton, the Movie Set. The directions we had been given and downloaded from the internet were poor, we had been warned about this but thought we had it covered. Instead we ended up having to ask a local and arrived 3 minutes late. Our tour had already gone but there were 3 places left on the next one, so joined that one instead. The farmer who owned the land, Russell Alexander, ran a working cattle and sheep farm when he was approached by Peter Jackson, the director of The Lord of the Rings Trilogy and the Hobbit Trilogy. He thought the farm was the perfect site for Hobbiton, it had a big tree that was 110 years old by a pond and undulating hills. A deal was struck and Hobbiton was created. After filming was complete the set was dismantled, only to be rebuilt a few years later after much interest by fans of the film to visit the place it was filmed. It is a wonderful place and the attention to detail is incredible. There were varying sizes of Hobbit holes depending on what shot was being done, the field where Bilbo Baggins had his eleventy first birthday party complete with maypole and gourd bunting, windows with glass, frilly curtains and plants inside, lines of washing blowing in the wind, Hobbit tools, decorated post boxes on sticks, jars of honey for sale with an honesty bag next to them, little Hobbit rocking chairs outside Hobbit houses, fish drying, and so much more. The whole set flowed over the hills and surrounding area. There was the double bridge over the pond next to the house with a watermill leading to the Green Dragon public house where roaring log fires burned and we could sit in the battered arm chairs for a glass of something. We were very fortunate as it was a sunny day and everything looked magical. Peter Jackson had been very particular to keep as close to the storyline as he could. So, chimneys rose from the hills behind doors of Hobbit houses, plants in terracotta pots bloomed outside the doors and the vegetable patch, complete with scarecrow was in very productive. Apparently, there are 5 full time gardeners who work on the set to keep it looking as it should. It was simply fantastic and if you ever get the chance to go you shouldn’t miss it. I have decided I want to be a Hobbit and live in Hobbiton. I don’t see why not; has it ever been proved they don’t exist?
We drove onto our next night’s stay at Robertson House in Rotorua and were met by John, our exuberant host from Worcestershire UK. He was on his own he explained, his wife who was a cellist was performing in Australia. The house is fabulous, very colonial. It is one of the two oldest buildings in town and dates back to the 1880’s. John explained that he bought the house sight unseen off the internet for $80,000 10 years ago. He and his wife, a Kiwi, lived in a flat in London at the time. His business went bust so he sold the flat, bought the house in Rotorua and the rest is history. It had been uninhabited for 10 years but apparently wasn’t too bad. It is made from a local indigenous wood that is very solid and long-lasting. He set about renovating it slowly, uncovering beautiful tiled fireplaces that had been hidden behind walls in each of the bedrooms. Ceilings were stripped back to the natural wood panelling from the ugly paint that was covering them. The outside fretwork also needed replacing. The bed in Janet’s room is nearly as old as her, it was made in 1827 and came with its full history intact.
John recommended local sights to see and places to eat. We decided to go to look at the local parks with bubbling thermal pools. The smell of sulphur was very strong everywhere around the town. The pools in the park were fenced off for safety but the larger ones had boardwalks over them that you could explore. It was a strange experience to be walking over the wooden paths with steam rising from the surrounding bubbling water and the acrid smell of sulphur all around. Mineral deposits lay in the pools, greeny yellow in colour, looking very slimy and nasty. Most plant life was dead apart from two species that could survive in such conditions, a fern and a small green feathery plant. The thermal steam and gasses escaped from cracks in rocks all over the place and mud boiled and bubbled in the pools and by the paths. We were getting hungry by now so made our way to the Fat Dog, which had been recommended by John. As he had promised, the portions were huge and very good value. We couldn’t eat all our food; it was just too much. Peter’s fish and chips had 3 large pieces of fish!
Finally, to round off the day we went to the Polynesian Spa, a haven where you could rest in the natural mineral spas. It was very relaxing. There were several rock pools, each hotter than the last. They started at 32 degrees and went up to 42 degrees. We found the 36 degree one to be most relaxing. We did try them all, but found the 42 degree one just too hot, not many people were lying in it, most were sitting or standing.Read more
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- Day 9
- Sunday, October 30, 2016 at 11:20 PM
- 🌙 7 °C
- Altitude: 280 m
New ZealandRotorua38°8’27” S 176°14’20” E
Waimangu & Tamaki Maori Village

Sunday 30th October
Today we headed out to look at Waimangu volcanic valley. The Waimangu Geothermal System, created by the eruption of Mount Tarawera on 10 June 1886 is the youngest geothermal system in the world and the only one wholly created as a direct result of a volcanic eruption. We stood looking out over the valley which was heavily forested with huge tree ferns rising out of the greenery to tower over the trees. The view looked like something from prehistoric times and we would not have been surprised if a dinosaur suddenly emerged. Deciding against the hiking trail – advertised as only for the fit, we followed the gravel path down the valley stopping at various viewpoints to take pictures and admire the scenery. The smell of sulphur hung in the air and all around we could see steam rising from fissures in rocks. There were several lakes, all steaming with bubbling mud pools and boiling water holes around the edges. There were large deposits of nasty yellowy/white slimy looking algae around the edges of the lakes. Running alongside the path was a stream that boiled, bubbled and steamed as it gurgled along towards the bigger lakes. At the bottom of the path we took a boat ride around the lake before catching the coach back up to the top of the valley where we started.
This evening we were booked to go to the Tamaki Maori village. It is a traditional village run by Maoris that aims to educate people about the Maori people, their culture, language, traditions and life. There were demonstrations of dancing, games, spear fighting, ribbon ball swinging and of course the Haka! Peter had a go at the Haka, but far from scaring anyone, it is supposed to be an intimidating dance, he was entertaining but in a different way, I couldn’t stop laughing and he was laughing and enjoying it also. There was a magnificent feast served up, cooked in the traditional way by digging a pit, heating volcanic rock until it is white hot then putting the food into cages and lowering it into the pit, meat first, covered with sacking, then vegetables, more sacking then finally pudding. The final covering of hessian then had earth heaped on top and it was left to cook for 3-4 hours. The end result was delicious. We saw the food lifted from the pit and it was served buffet style for everyone. Chicken, lamb, vegetables, fish, oysters, sponge pudding and pavlova. Absolutely fantastic. A great evening’s entertainment well worthwhile and highly recommended.Read more
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- Day 10
- Monday, October 31, 2016 at 11:32 PM
- 🌙 7 °C
- Altitude: 9 m
New ZealandTutaekuri River39°30’5” S 176°54’24” E
Rotorua to Napier

Monday 31st October
We left Rotorua after spending a very leisurely breakfast chatting to a retired couple from Yorkshire who are keen motorbiking fans. They are travelling on a bike and have been to several countries before New Zealand following various bike races. We stopped at a hunting and fishing store in Rotorua and purchased some more warm clothes, it’s a bit colder here than we anticipated, then it was off towards Napier where we are staying tonight.
We stopped at the Huka falls. The river is wide but once it enters the gorge it becomes a turbulent, heaving, roaring body of water, deep and with rapids, whirlpools and white foaming water. Then it spills out the end of the gorge as a forceful waterfall, not very high but with huge force creating a 9m deep pit at the bottom of the falls. Apparently enough water flows over the falls in a minute to fill 5 Olympic sized swimming pools. It was quite spectacular. Apart from the white foam the water itself was coloured a beautiful pale turquoise with parts of it a clear deeper shade of turquoise almost like turquoise glass. All these colours are completely natural caused by minerals in the water.
We doubled back to the Aritiatia Dam which opens every couple of hours to lower the level of the lake reservoir behind the dam which is constantly being filled from rivers flowing into it. When we arrived the dam had been opened, only a few inches, and water was forced out of the narrow gaps and thundering down the rocky gorge towards the lake further on. This is the place that the hobbits and dwarfs went down in barrels to escape in the Hobbit part I. After about 7 minutes the dam doors closed and the water stopped. Immediately the level in the gully below began to lower as what water was left flowed away and was not replenished. It dropped at least 6-7 feet in a matter of minutes exposing large boulders and rocks previously hidden under the rush of water from the dam.
It was time to hit the road for Napier which was a 2hour drive away. It was a beautiful drive over mountains and through vast wide open green landscapes with fields filled with grazing cattle or sheep. In the mountains it was very cold but as we got lower in the valleys it warmed up so we were constantly putting on and taking off our fleeces. New Zealand is a very easy country to drive in because they drive on the left. We have an automatic car, very common for a hire car and most of the controls are the same as those on cars back home…..except for windscreen wipers and indicators which are on opposite sides to what we are used to. Consequently, before Peter pulls out to overtake, or into a parking spot he lets other road users know with a quick wipe of the windscreen wipers. Sometimes he goes as far as squirting water on the windscreen as well for good measure!! It’s hilarious, we turn at the traffic lights wipers swiping back and forth frantically as drivers all around wonder what on earth we are doing.
Our bed for the night is 119ongeorges in Napier. We have been lucky once again. It is a super little bungalow with the all-important veranda and bistro table and chairs. Wendy and Peter, our hosts insisted we joined them for a glass of wine (or grapefruit or orange for Janet and I) and canapes. They were very interested to hear about our travels so far and our impressions of New Zealand. We chatted for a couple of hours and they recommended a couple of good places to eat in town. The Emporium in Napier sounded like it fitted the bill and we enjoyed a really lovely meal there tonight.Read more
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- Day 11
- Tuesday, November 1, 2016 at 9:05 PM
- 🌙 10 °C
- Altitude: 9 m
New ZealandTutaekuri River39°30’5” S 176°54’24” E
Napier – Art Deco Heritage

Tuesday 1st November
Following recommendations from Wendy and Peter we decided to do an Art Deco walk run by the Art Deco Heritage Trust in the centre of Napier. The walks are run by volunteers and take groups around the streets describing them before the huge earthquake at 10.47am Feb 3rd 1931 which measured 7.8 on the Richter scale that totally devastated Napier and to a lesser extent surrounding towns. The sea bed rose 2.5m, which meant that ships and boats in the harbour found themselves on dry land as the sea receded. The town grew in 8,000 hectares of land space in just over two minutes. Almost immediately after the great earthquake fires sprang up, ignited by Bunsen burners in pharmacies and these fires raged and spread for two days doing much more damage than the earthquake. Firemen could not put out the fire even when they tried to draw water from the sea as the pebbles blocked their hoses. The fires had to be left to burn out, devastating everything that was left after the quake. Fortunately, a photographer who survived the quake had the foresight to race back to his shop after the quake, grab a camera and went around photographing the damage done by the earthquake. Without this man’s photos, there would be no record of it as the fire swept through shortly afterwards.
Since it was the time of the great depression all manual labourers in New Zealand flocked to Napier to help rebuild it as there was no other work to be had. Bankrolled by two men, an engineer and a banker the town rose from the ashes in about 3 years. They refused to allow buildings to be thrown up hastily, they planned and designed the new town, it was in Art Deco style. Napier lived on. A few of the iconic buildings have been pulled down in the 70’s before it was realised their historical significance, but a lot survive and with the support of all the townsfolk no new building is allowed unless it is in keeping with the Art Deco theme of the town as designed by the two original men. The buildings have the architectural design of the 20’s complete with colours and typeface. There are lots of shops catering to that period and once a year in February the whole town has a week of festivities remembering that era with everyone dressing up and taking part in activities befitting of the era. I think it would be wonderful to return then.
After the tour, we spent a while walking around soaking up the atmosphere. Napier is on the coast and has a wonderful floral display by the beachfront although the beach is pebbly and not sandy. However, there are fountains which dance to music by day and are coloured by night, a glorious sight. The sea is a pale turquoise in the shallows, gradually changing to an azure blue in the deeper water. With the cornflower blue skies and the Tui bird making its distinctive sound around us it was heavenly standing looking out to sea soaking up the moment, trying to commit it to memory.
To add to the atmosphere there was a vintage car company who had 5 or 6 cars parked on the front. All the drivers were dressed in 1920’s clothes and you could hire one to take you on a tour of the town. I particularly liked a little green sports number with the number plate ‘What Ho!’
After stopping for the obligatory cup of tea and cake we decided it was time to move on. One of the problems of being such a beautiful town is that the big cruise liners dock there and disgorge vast numbers of tourists all at once into the town. The Sea Princess had just docked; it was a huge ship and passengers were just filtering into the town. Time for us to depart.
We jumped in the car and drove to Bluff Peak, a high point at one end of Napier which afforded fabulous views over the dockyard where we could see a container ship being loaded as well as the Sea Princess in dock, boy it was a huge cruiser! There were also lots of huge tree trunks stacked in open crates, presumably waiting to be shipped somewhere for telegraph poles or the like. At the top was a beautiful rock garden which was obviously very well loved and cared for. The spring flowers were in full bloom and it was a riot of colour, full of pinks, purples, yellows, oranges, reds and whites, so very very pretty.
From here we drove onto Te Anu peak an even higher peak which had even further reaching views than the Bluff Peak. It was a steep climb up the hill to the peak, on a very narrow road, the last 500yds were particularly hairy as there was a sheer drop on one side of the road and few passing places. Thankfully we made it up without meeting any other vehicle. The views were wonderful and it was possible to see miles and miles into the distance. We were fortunate it was a clear sunny day which no doubt helped.
Tonight, we ate at 3 Doors Up in Napier, very tasty and recommended.Read more
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- Day 12
- Wednesday, November 2, 2016 at 10:20 PM
- 🌧 13 °C
- Altitude: 30 m
New ZealandVictoria University41°17’36” S 174°46’14” E
Napier to Wellington and a white kiwi

Wednesday 2nd November Daily Mileage 372
Cumulative Mileage 1,004
So sad to say bye bye to Wendy and Peter, they have been wonderful hosts and even gave us a typewritten sheet of ideas for stops on the journey to Wellington. Special people.
We have a long old drive ahead of us today, so after one of Peter’s ‘specials’ for which he is renowned which consists of a full English fry up beautifully finished off with parsley and black pepper, Peter and Janet were ready for the road. I kept to my usual fruit, muesli and yoghurt which agrees with me much better than a fry up. We broke the journey by stopping at Pukaha, a bird conservation place in Mount Bruce. They do a lot of work creating habit for, amongst other birds, kiwi’s and we thought this was our best chance of seeing them. They have the only white kiwi in the world, it is not an albino, but both parents had the recessive white gene which produced a white chick. World media went wild when she was born in 2011 and there was extensive coverage on the news. As they are nocturnal birds they were inside in a large night light enclosure. We were very lucky and saw both birds, they are not always seen so we did feel privileged. The white hen kiwi was nearly twice the size of her brown mate and at one point was chasing him around the enclosure pecking and jumping on him. They were both letting out shrill cries and did not sound very happy. Must have been having a domestic!! Apart from birds there were also some very large eels in a river that ran through the reserve. Peter was keen to go to see them fed so we headed off in that direction. When the staff who were doing the talk asked if anyone would like to feed the eels his hand shot up. There was a short plank suspended above the water which he stood on. The food was in a large plastic bucket, he scooped it up onto a long handled flat ladle and balancing on the plank of wood leant out over the river and offered the ladle low on the surface of the water to the eels. Janet and I were stood on the path on the bank of the river and could see the writhing, seething mass of eels waiting in anticipation for food. They were huge eels, the biggest were at least 6’ long with a thick girth as well! The food comprised of kitchen scraps, a couple of eggs and a mouse that had been caught in a trap somewhere all mixed up in a mash. The eels seemed to love it and were sucking the spoon to get the food. Peter loved it, he said it made his day.
Making our way to the café, we saw some Kaka parrots sitting on the backs of chairs on the veranda. They are a large brown and green parrot with a red breast who indigenous to New Zealand. Creeping onto the veranda we managed to get a couple of photos before they flew off when some noisy children came out. We had a tea and cake in their shop then, feeling much refreshed hopped back into the car and pressed on to Wellington. The road took us over some high mountains, the road twisting and turning steeply as it wound up the sides. There were passing places which offered motorists the opportunity to pass the large double trailer articulated lorries that also used the route. Peter let cars behind us know his intention to overtake by putting on the windscreen wipers and pulling out. Fortunately none were so close for it to be a problem, but it made Janet and I laugh every time he did it. We also saw lots of police speed traps and as in the UK drivers coming towards us flashed their lights to warn us of the trap. Peter responded by squirting the windscreen washers and giving the thumbs up – more laughter from us all.
Upon our arrival in Wellington we saw a familiar sight moored in the port – the Sea Princess, she must have sailed from Napier around the coast overnight to Wellington.
We were making our way to our accommodation when we went round a corner and whoooaa, found ourselves at the top of the steepest hill I have seen and a very steep gradient too. It was like being at the top of a big dipper rollercoaster. Gulping we started down the hill, discovering that our B&B was halfway down! We pulled over, making sure the handbrake was securely on and unloaded the car. Peter then took it back to Thrifty rental depot. We don’t have a car in Wellington and will be catching the ferry to the South Island afterwards where we will pick up a new car. Our new hosts, Ann and Dartrey Lamb are very pleasant and recommended a pub in the town for a meal. We got caught in a heavy shower on the way back and ended up rather wet.Read more
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- Day 14
- Friday, November 4, 2016 at 9:05 PM
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Altitude: 24 m
New ZealandTe Aro41°17’52” S 174°46’16” E
Steep Hills of Wellington

Thursday 3rd November
Ann cooked a fabulous breakfast for Janet and Peter, there was so much as well! They did the best they could but they couldn’t manage it all. I had fresh fruit, muesli and yoghurt, delicious and I was impressed that the cornflakes on offer were Kellogg’s, not a shop own brand which are nasty and soggy or taste odd. Kellogg’s are the best and it is a measure of the establishment in my mind if they have Kellogg’s or not. Ann got a big tick in this box, she is the only place so far who has had Kellogg’s. Ann also came up trumps with the washing. We asked for the whereabouts of the nearest laundrette and she insisted on doing it in her machine and pegging it out to dry. Very kind of her.
We were due to be picked up for a tour of The Lord of the Rings filming locations and the Weta Film Studios. However, despite confirming the tour last night by phone the guide failed to turn up. We rang again and they said they had contacted our agent several times and had we not had the messages, well, we knew that was not true because our agents have been in touch by email about an itinerary change at the glacier so I’m sure they would have passed on queries from the tour firm. I think that because the place we were staying does not have a website they couldn’t find it, and didn’t bother to ring us back to ask. It was rather annoying, but we put it to one side and concentrated on the tour, we weren’t going to let it spoil our day.
The tour took us to various locations in Wellington where The Lord of the Rings filming took place. The guide had still shots from the film and showed us where they were in real life, some had been shot using clever angles and he shared other tricks of the trade which made it more interesting. For instance, there was a thick spooky wood that was used for the scenes where the hobbits were fleeing from the The Black Riders, the Ringwraiths, he explained that where the scene of the Ringwraith sitting on the horse silhouetted against the night sky was filmed, the horse had steamy breath which was fine, but so did the actor, which was no good because they were supposed to be neither living nor dead, they were in-between according to the book so they couldn’t have breath. To get around that problem rather than spend $10,000+ on digitally altering the picture they purchased a $10 snorkel and got the actor to wear it with the tube going down his back, so there was no breath steam. The character had a fabric hood over his head so that concealed the snorkel, problem solved at a budget price. The excursion also included a tour of the Weta Film Studios. This was very interesting. It is a studio that does special effects for lots of films. We saw how they made silicone masks for monsters – a speciality of theirs. Their boast was that they could make plastic look like anything they wanted. Indeed they had what to the naked eye looked like metal swords or chainmail or armour but it was all plastic, very effective and convincing, they are masters at their art. Because of their skill they are sought after and have manufactured monsters, gore, and all manner of special effects for loads of films, many that I had never heard of but include Avatar and HellBoy as well as the Hobbit and the Lord of the Rings.
We were dropped off by the cable car station to catch it to the top of the hill to the Botanical Gardens. Wellington is a very hilly city; the streets are incredibly steep in places. Some of the residential houses that were perched on hillsides actually had their own personal single person cable car to get them from the road to their house. These looked very Heath Robinson and apparently have no health and safety regulations covering them so I’m not sure I would like to trust one to get me to my house. We had a map of the Botanical Gardens; unfortunately, it bore no resemblance to the pathways and we couldn’t make head nor tail of it. Also, it failed to say that the gardens were, as usual, on a very steep slope so walking around involved lots of steep slopes and stairs. We quickly became very tired and puffed out. We were trying to head for the Rose Garden Café which had been recommended to us but it took us ages of trudging around in circles before we came across it. In fact, we cheated because we saw a sign for the steep slopes route to the café or the easy route – guess which we took! The easy route involved going out the gates, walking down the flat road and back in some other gates further along – much easier. The café was a welcome refuge after all the walking, we were starting to flag badly and our feet were throbbing. Still after a cuppa and something to eat we felt a bit better – ready to tackle the hills back to the cable car down to the city.
Wellington is also home to the excellent Te Papa Museum which tells the history of NZ and includes an earthquake simulator. New Zealand is a young country that has only been populated for around 800 years, there were life stories of immigrants, New Zealand’s stance on nuclear weapons and a very moving exhibition on Gallipoli which had gigantic models of people, of soldiers and nurses with realistic set ups of war time conditions and what happened. I found it extremely moving, as much as visiting the war graves in Ypres had been. I would recommend anyone with an interest in the wars to visit this. I knew that New Zealand is a landmass straddling two plates of the earth but there was a lot of information about how the earth is formed, how it developed, the plates of the earth and the history of volcanos and earthquakes. It was extremely interesting and of course so relevant to this country who experience an earthquake every day although most are very weak.
We were so exhausted by all our walking today that we just wanted an easy meal. However, this is not very likely when I’m around as I am such a fussy eater. I was even getting exasperated with myself! Finally, after rejecting lots of eateries we settled on a bistro who agreed to cook me an omelette. I do wish I could eat anything it would make life so much easier.Read more
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- Day 14
- Friday, November 4, 2016 at 10:21 PM
- 🌙 11 °C
- Altitude: 25 m
New ZealandSugar Loaf41°16’53” S 173°17’17” E
WOW, Hair Washing

Friday 4th November
Daily Mileage 87
Cumulative Mileage 1,091
Another early start as we were due to catch the 9am Interislander ferry from Wellington for the 3hr trip to Picton where we were picking up another rental car and driving 2 hours to Nelson. Dartrey kindly offered to give us a lift to the ferry terminal.
The trip took 3 hours, our new rental car turned out to be exactly the same as our old one, even the same colour. We sped off as we wanted to get to the WOW museum in Nelson. It was 2.5 hrs drive away, it was already 1pm and it shut at 5pm. We made up a bit of time even though the roads were very twisty and turny and arrived around 3pm. We had our customary cuppa and dived into the museum. WOW stands for the World of Wearable Art & Classic Cars Museum. It was recommended to us by a couple of old work colleagues; and it was a good tip, we loved it. The fashions were whacky and pretty way out, but interesting to look at. I couldn’t imagine ever wearing any of the creations, but I don’t think that was what it was about, it was more about the creativity and interpretation of something rather than the wearability. I found the classic cars the most interesting, I just love classic cars. They had loads there, real old vintage cars from the 1900’s right up to cars from my youth in the 1970’s. It seems so strange that cars I remember are classics. There was a Triumph Herald 1200 which was my first car, except mine was sea green and theirs was red. There was also a Ford Anglia which I remember my Dad had and we used to travel everywhere in it. His was a pale blue and my Aunty Beryl and Uncle Roy had a navy one. We all used to travel around together in them. There was the car from the film ‘Christine’, a gorgeous fire red Plymouth Fury. Typical the one thing that gets the same name as me has to be a car in a horror film! Still I took photos of it and may change my Facebook picture to it and see if anyone makes the connection. Some of the 1950’s American cars were just fab. It’s incredible how long they were, I can’t imagine parking them in the supermarket car park they would stick out a mile. Every car there was in immaculate condition, all gleaming and shining as if they were new. They had been lovingly and carefully restored very sympathetically to original colours etc. Most of the cars had a synopsis of their history on a notice by the car which was very interesting. I glazed over when it talked about the mechanics of the car but found the bits about where the car was found and how it was restored of much more interest. Eventually a member of staff came round to tell us they were closing so we jumped into our car and sped to our bed for the night. We have struck gold again! We are staying at Joya Villa and Studio. It is run by Paulina, a lady from the Netherlands who came to NZ 16 years ago and teaches autistic children in a revolutionary way. The villas are immaculate and come complete with a kitchenette and lounge as well as music and tv. The back garden is long and slopes steeply down, our villa is a log cabin about 2/3’s of the way down, Janet’s villa is on higher ground above ours with views of a stream and a lawn with a circular timber table surrounded by circular timber seating. Our villa looks out over a pond that dwarfs even our lake! It has a little stream running into it and an island with a drawbridge which apparently the children just love. The roof of our villa is a living roof of succulents which at the moment are in flower and look lovely, Janet can see our roof from her villa. We strolled into town – about 12 minutes to a pub – the Vic where we had a lovely meal. It’s another early start tomorrow, we have to be on the road by 7am to drive back to Kaikoura, about 3.5hrs away to go whale watching – I am seriously excited about that. Janet is getting in a bit of a panic about the early starts as she has to plan her hair washing. Does she have enough time in the morning or should she wash it the night before and risk going to bed with damp hair and waking up with vertical hair. Such a dilemma. We reminded her that we will be on a boat at sea tomorrow so it is likely to get wet with sea water and be blown around. Everyone’s hair will be a bit of a mess by the end of the day. She nodded and agreed that she would be better to wash it tomorrow night. Sorted! (I didn’t tell her we are at sea again the following day swimming with dolphins, I’ll remind her of that tomorrow).Read more
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- Day 15
- Saturday, November 5, 2016 at 10:44 PM
- 🌙 12 °C
- Altitude: 38 m
New ZealandNga Niho Pa42°24’21” S 173°40’47” E
Kaikoura - Whales – what Whales

Saturday 5th November
Daily Mileage 247
Cumulative Mileage 1,391
An early start today as we had to be on the road by 7am. Paulina prepared an organic breakfast for us, insisting we started with a hot lemon and ginger drink to cleanse our sinuses. This was followed by organic yogurt, muesli, grapes, dates, dried apricots soaked in redbush tea rounded off with a small cheese omelette. She also gave us some croissants for the road.
I drove the first couple of hours to Kaikoura; the roads were quiet as it was early so we bowled along nicely, eating up the miles, snaking round the mountains along the windy roads. At one point I found myself following two gorgeous vintage cars, a Bentley and a Rolls Royce open top. The Roller was racing along pulling away from the Bentley and me at one point (and I was going at the speed limit of 100kph), then the Bentley put his foot down and tore off away from me too. I was left just pootling along. After a while I caught up with the Bentley and we spent a few miles behind it admiring it. It had a black roof and a gunmetal grey body, with the spare tyre in a matching metal cover on the boot. There were big spotlight lights on the front and the man driving it had a wide brimmed straw hat, which oddly seemed to suit the car. For vintage cars, they sure had a turn of speed and could, if asked, zip along and more than hold their own against modern cars. Finally, the driver of the Roller held a yellow padded gloved hand aloft in the way a policeman does to stop traffic, this was obviously a signal to his mate in the Bentley that they were going to stop as they both slowed down and pulled over.
After a stop for a takeaway cuppa – sorry no photo as it was at a roadside café and not very picturesque, Peter took over driving. A little way outside of Kaikoura we spotted a few motorhomes and cars pulled into a large parking bay by the edge of the sea. It looked interesting and we wanted to stretch our legs so we also parked up. When we got out of the car we saw there was a colony of seals all around us in the rocks by the sea. People were wandering around taking photos, it was very relaxed and we joined in. There were large male seals claiming territory on the top of big rocks, chasing off smaller seals who dared to try to clamber up. Most of them were lying on rocks in the sun just resting and sleeping, but some of the youngsters were messing around in the water the way juveniles do. It was an entertaining and relaxing break for half an hour or so.
We arrived at the Whaling Station early and adjourned to the café which was a bit of a disaster as they forgot my food and Peter and Janet’s chicken and vegetable soup was lukewarm and greasy on top – not nice. Then there was an announcement, the whaling trip was cancelled as the spotter planes had not been able to locate any in the area at all. We were very disappointed but realise that wildlife is unpredictable so it couldn’t be helped. We went on the waiting list for a later trip but that too was cancelled. So instead we checked into our B&B, Nikau Lodge to dump our bags off and went into town to browse around then headed to Half Moon Bay to explore the rock pools. There were some seals there too, not nearly as many as we had seen earlier on. There was one with a big bite mark on its back. A local said he had been caught by a boat propeller and was being watched to make sure he is ok. He had been around the beach for about a week.
We are on the wait list for whale watching tomorrow afternoon and if that fails we can get a plane to fly over them instead so we are keeping our fingers crossed they may come back into the area tomorrow.
I have included a photo of the view from our bedroom window. Our B&B is on a headland over the town with beautiful sea views.Read more
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- Day 16
- Sunday, November 6, 2016 at 8:01 PM
- ☀️ 32 °C
- Altitude: 38 m
New ZealandNga Niho Pa42°24’21” S 173°40’47” E
Swimming with Dolphins

Sunday 6th November
We had an 8am Swim with the Dolphins trip today so we were up early and ready at the meet point. I wasn’t at all confident about swimming in the open ocean with the dolphins but put on a wetsuit in case. Peter was very keen to do it and Janet had decided just to watch. The boat was like a substantial cabin cruiser but very powerful with a couple of wide steps into the sea at each side at the rear of the boat. The bottom step was in the ocean and had grab rails around it. It only took about 20 mins to get to where the dolphins were thought to be. After a quick tutorial on snorkelling and tips on how to attract the interest of the dolphins the horn blasted which was the signal that dolphins had been seen and it was ok to go into the water. The crew knew I was very nervous about the whole thing and I was holding back to the end of the group before going in the water. I have a strong gag reflex and do tend to panic if I start to gag, often ending up hyperventilating. My biggest fear was that this would happen in the ocean when I was snorkelling and I might drown. However, I really did want to swim with the dolphins and this got the better of my fear, so very gingerly and with lots of encouragement from the crew, after everyone else had gone, I sat on the rear step of the boat and, with a last deep breath slipped into the sea. It was cold and this did make me gasp a bit but that was not scary. I also had a floatation jacket on as I thought this might give me confidence I could not drown, but in fact it got in the way more than helped and I kept rolling over so I decided to replace it with a noodle. This was also a bit of a hindrance so I decided to go with just a float. I found this much better. By now it was time for everyone to come back on board as the dolphins had moved and the crew wanted to drive the boat closer to where they had gone to. The boat stopped again and everyone got back into the water. Peter was doing well and was in the crowd with the dolphins swimming around them. Once again I slipped in and for a few minutes managed to paddle around near the back of the boat with my face in the water, breathing correctly through my snorkel and looking for dolphins. I felt a little more confident now so when we had to go back to the boat to move on again I thought I would go in once more. I preferred waiting until the end as I felt no pressure to keep up. The crew kept calling out encouragement and I managed to swim around a little but not as well as before and began to panic about being in the sea, the boat seemed a long way away but in reality, was no more than 10-12’. I was really scared now and splashing around. I got myself closer to the boat and one of the crew leant down and I was half dragged whilst pulling myself as best I could to scramble onto the step. I firmly decided not to go in again and I think really I should not have gone in the third time as when I got back on board I felt very queasy. I managed to get dressed and sat next to an American Chinese lady who had only been in the water once but was also not very confident and felt sick too. Brightly coloured buckets were given to each of us in case we felt we needed to use them. Neither of us was actually sick thankfully. However, I continued to feel panicky on the boat and began to hyperventilate. The crew were very good and talked to me calmly which helped and wrapped me in a big blanket which was very cosy. Back on land I sat on a bench by the boat, still feeling rather ill, one of the other swimmers who was a doctor came to see if I was ok which was very kind of him. We went back to our B&B where we had hot showers and I had a lay down which helped. The feeling of being on a boat bobbing around continued for several hours though which was not pleasant. I think basically I had got myself over worried about the whole thing which just made me have a bit of a panic attack and to start to hyperventilate, I am normally ok on boats. The whale watching was cancelled this afternoon again as the whales had still not come into the area, which was just as well really as I didn’t feel like going on another boat today. I had really wanted to swim with dolphins and the reason I went back into the water was because I wanted to see one through my mask swim past or around me. Sadly, I didn’t see any through my mask, but they were in the water near me so I think I will give myself half a mark for being in the water with them nearby. Peter did very well though and thoroughly enjoyed it. Both he and Janet got some photos of the dolphins.Read more
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- Day 17
- Monday, November 7, 2016 at 8:55 PM
- ☀️ 8 °C
- Altitude: 4 m
New ZealandHokitika Aerodrome42°43’1” S 170°58’1” E
Kaikoura to Hokitika

Monday 7th November
Daily Mileage 380
Cumulative Mileage 1,771
Today was the longest drive of the holiday from Kaikoura to Hokitika via the Lewis Pass. The Lewis Pass was beautiful but unfortunately there were very few places to stop and many of the ones there were had the view obscured by big trees. It was unlike Canada where every scenic route had lots of parking bays both side of the road and we were able to get great photos. We did several tea and loo stops on the way to break the journey, arriving at Hokitika at 3.30pm. We are staying at Bella Vista Motel tonight. We had trouble finding somewhere to stay in the area that we all liked and this motel seemed about the best we could find. However when we arrived we were pleasantly surprised, the rooms are spacious with a kitchenette and perfectly adequate and clean bathroom. We just had time to walk into town to look around. Paua shell jewellery is everywhere but I found some that I thought was particularly nice and purchased some matching earrings, necklace and ring. It was starting to rain so we ducked into a café for a meal. Unfortunately, by the time we finished it was raining hard and just-in-case Janet had failed to pack her umbrella in her backpack so we ribbed her about that for a bit.
Sorry no photos today bit of a boring day, just driving.Read more
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- Day 18
- Tuesday, November 8, 2016 at 11:01 PM
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Altitude: 9 m
New ZealandHaast43°52’49” S 169°2’30” E
Hokitika to Haast

Tuesday 8th November
We woke to see low cloud over the mountains, not a good sign as we were booked to go on a Heli-hike up Franz Joseph Glacier and in such conditions, it was highly likely the helicopters would not fly for health & safety reasons. Still we had an 85km drive there so we hoped the weather would be better in Haast. When we arrived at the guide centre for the Heli-hike we were advised that the pilots were still deciding whether or not to fly to the glacier. Helicopters were buzzing around and we were hopeful. However, we found out that the Heli-hike went much higher than they were flying and the concern was that if they got us up there they could not guarantee being able to land again after our 2hr hike to bring us back down. After hearing this I was mightily relieved when the decision was made to cancel all the helicopter trips apart from the scenic rides which flew lower. We could have transferred to a scenic ride but thought that as we had flown over a glacier in a small plane in Canada we didn’t think it would be worth it as one glacier is much the same as another from the air and it would have invalidated our refund.
So as not to completely waste the day we took ourselves off on a walk to look at the glacier from a nearby viewpoint. It looked like a beautiful ice blue torrent of water with white tipped waves frozen as it flowed from the top of the mountain only just visible through the low cloud. We then drove onto Haaat, to find our bed for the night. It was another motel. Not too bad. Free laundry facilities which is a bonus and an opportunity to catch up on washing. It has beautiful lawned grounds with a big pond opposite our room, but the driving rain and leaden skies didn’t enhance the view at all. Dinner at the on-site bar/café the Hard Antler – bit of a bizarre name, it was a large rectangular building like a Nissan hut with the girders on view inside over which were hung loads of antlers from various deer.Read more
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- Day 22
- Saturday, November 12, 2016 at 6:41 PM
- ☀️ 15 °C
- Altitude: 25 m
New ZealandZillian Hill43°52’59” S 169°2’54” E
Aftermath of the Great Storm

Wednesday 9th November
After finishing the blog on Tuesday 8th November, posting it and turning in for the night, it all started to kick off! First we heard a very loud, deep rumbling and wondered if it was thunder, but it seemed too intense. Then the pyrotechnic show started, the sky lit up with sheet lightning and the thunder crashed in unison. Peeping out of our door we watched as our white car, parked directly outside our room seemed to light up, the white colour becoming even more luminous and bright. The heavens opened and the rain fell. It came down in absolute torrents, it was a deluge. We lay in bed and listened to the rain pounding on the tin roof of our single storey chalet. I couldn’t remember if Janet was afraid of thunderstorms or not and wondered if she was ok, on the other hand she could be absolutely fine and enjoying the spectacle. The storm continued unabated throughout the night for many hours. It was trapped between the mountains in the valley where we were and swirled round and around. One minute it seemed to settle, the rain stopped, the lightning ceased and the thunder died away, then all of a sudden with an almighty crash the skies lit up and the rain hammered down again, echoing on the tin roof. We wondered how close we were to the river, what if it burst its banks? Perhaps the management would come round pounding on doors telling everyone to leave and get to higher ground! Around 5am there was a huge bang, much louder than anything else which woke Peter up – amazingly he managed to slumber through the storm having earlier pulled on my coat and going outside to watch it. When he came in he fell asleep fairly easily, until the big bang! Later on, when we got up and gingerly peered outside to inspect the damage, we learnt that there was a direct lightning hit on the property next door, melting the phone to the wall. It was the worst storm in living memory! People were stranded at our motel as all roads north to Fox and Franz Joseph were blocked by landslides. We had planned to go on a wildlife boat trip in the morning but there was a call to say the river was too high and they couldn’t take the boats out. We are blaming Janet’s unlucky jumper. She ruefully admitted that she had been wearing it when we were due to go whale watching and again when we turned up to go heli-hiking. I think she was probably wearing it in bed last night too. Janet is keeping suspiciously quiet about the whole thing. I rest my case.
Our route was taking us south to Queenstown which TomTom predicted would take 3hrs. In fact it took us nearer 7 hours because we did lots of stops on the way. The upside of the great storm was that all the rivers and waterfalls were swollen beyond belief and took on a newfound beauty. As we drove along it was apparent that everyone was doing the same as cars, campervans and motorhomes were pulled off the road every few kms to look at a magnificent waterfall or rapids. Seeing a group of vehicles at one layby we too pulled over and walked through a mossy wood, hopping through deep puddles to get to the edge of the river where, on the opposite bank we could see Roaring Billy – a huge waterfall, its waters swelled by the overnight rain, ejected from the top of a clifftop as if fired from a water cannon then falling down the side of the cliff into the tumultuous churning waters of the river below. It was an awe-inspiring sight. Further along the road we stopped to see Thunder Creek falls, higher, not as wide but similarly swollen. Again, we walked to the edge of the river on the opposite bank. The mist from the falls filled the air all around us, soaking our hair and clothes, we shielded our cameras as best we could from the mist. Alongside all the roads newly created waterfalls sprung from crevices and fissures in the rock-face adjacent to the road, tumbling into gullies along the edge of the roads and from there seeping into the rivers all around causing them to roar through the valleys and gorges gouging out new channels and threatening to flood surrounding land.
We stopped for lunch at Boundary Creek picnic and camping ground. It was on the shores of Lake Wanaka. By now the skies were cornflower blue with wisps of white cloud whilst the waters of Lake Wanaka were a deep sapphire blue surrounded by green mountains dotted with trees. We walked along the water’s edge, picking up interesting looking stones, admiring the vast quantities of driftwood scattered along the shoreline. Some had been fashioned into makeshift shelters and camps, presumably by children or campers. It was the sort of moment you want to bottle and remember for ever.
Carrying on our journey we were held up by a large landslide which covered half the road. Three men on ropes were precariously suspended up the cliff-face carrying out routine maintenance, clearing debris that would otherwise fall and cause more problems. Talking to the supervisor on the ground she explained that tomorrow a couple of helicopters were coming to sluice the cliff tomorrow scooping water up from the lake in giant buckets then dropping the water onto the cliff to wash away any debris left. That sounded an interesting sight and I wished I could be around to see it.
Our final stop was Arrowtown which is a mock-up of a western town. The fronts of the shops had been built to carefully represent shops and buildings from a wild west town. It looked lovely and we spent an hour or so wandering around in the sunshine enjoying an ice cream.
Arriving in Queenstown we found our bed for the night, Peppers Beacon. It was a very pleasant surprise, a 2-bedroom apartment overlooking the lake. Both bedrooms were en-suite, the kitchen had 2 dishwashers and full cooking facilities; opening a cupboard door we found a washing machine and tumble dryer. Very nice. The only downside is that they do not have free WiFi so I will have to wait to post this blog until I can get hooked up as I am not paying their prices. We have a little family of sparrows who have made a nest by the warm air vent next to our balcony. The parents seem to be gathering grubs and moths for their young and welcomed some crumbs and snips of chicken skin from our meal. A greedy blackbird was also nesting in a bush in front of our balcony – we are on the ground floor and he hoovered up any titbits left by the sparrows.Read more
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- Day 22
- Saturday, November 12, 2016 at 6:50 PM
- ☀️ 13 °C
- Altitude: Sea level
New ZealandMalaspina Reach45°19’13” S 166°59’13” E
To Doubtful Sound

Thursday 10th November
We checked out of Peppers Beacon for one night as we are going on an overnight cruise along Doubtful Sound in a schooner. We are only allowed one small bag, as usual I took far too much and consequently my bag was very heavy - I do need to work on my travelling light method. The coach picked us up from outside the hotel, and from there it was a 3½ hour drive to the ferry which was to take us across Lake Manapouri. Another coach was waiting for us as we docked and drove us a further hour to the head of Doubtful Sound where we boarded our schooner. We had our own cabins on the upper deck which were surprisingly spacious with en-suite facilities. A lot of others were sharing quad cabins which sounded rather basic bunk bed facilities separated by curtains in the lower deck of the boat. The boat dropped anchor about 45minutes after we had set sail; there were various water based activities on offer. Peter decided to join the kayaking activity, about 24 in total went out. It looked very tiring as they kayaked around the Fiord. Janet and I preferred to join one of the smaller boats that went out to explore the surrounding flora and fauna. Once everyone was back on board there was the opportunity to go swimming in the Sound. The water is both fresh water and salt, the salt water being heavier sinks below the fresh which sits on top. It is also coloured a rich brown by all the tannins washed into the water from the surrounding mountains and trees. Quite a lot of people went in, some slipped in from the landing stage for the kayaks whilst some climbed a ladder and jumped from the first floor! Even the crew joined in, jumping and diving in. Everyone said it was very cold, but seemed to enjoy it as many went in for more.
Soup and a roll was served afterwards at about 5pm, but I didn’t fancy any, it was too soon after lunch for me. The boat then sailed on the length of the Sound to a fur seal colony at the mouth. We moved to the front of the top deck to try to get a good view. It was really windy and cold, luckily we had zipped back to our cabins to put on an extra layer before venturing up there. A large rock rose from the sea and all over it basked seals, some pups were playing, chasing each other around on the rock watched by their mothers whilst the large bulls kept an eye on their cows to make sure they didn’t stray. Moving away from the seals the boat sailed towards the edge of the shore where some yellow eyed penguins were spotted. Onwards the boat continued into the open ocean, the Tasmin Sea where there are some of the roughest waters in the world. The crew said the waters were quite calm but to us as we pitched up and down, tossed in the waves, it seemed anything but. I should have taken Janet’s offer of one of her accustraps which she swears prevents seasickness. Everyone was alert, looking for whales, but alas once more they evaded us, no sign of them at all. Eventually our little boat turned its prow back towards calmer waters and we sailed from the turbulent sea into the relative calm of the Sound. Our fingers and noses were quite numb by now so we decided to go back inside. Dinner was a delicious buffet affair. After dinner there was an optional talk on New Zealand flora. The boat was at anchor and it was very peaceful outside. Janet and I walked around on the deck in the dark, it was amazing how many noises we could hear coming from the forests on shore. Many birds we could not identify as well as many other noises from unknown creatures. The stars twinkled in the sky above and I saw a shooting star and what I think was a satellite, either that or it was an alien, but I think the satellite is more likely. It was very peaceful and serene.Read more
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- Day 22
- Saturday, November 12, 2016 at 10:23 PM
- 🌙 8 °C
- Altitude: 333 m
New ZealandQueenstown45°1’47” S 168°39’45” E
Doubtful Sound to Queenstown

Friday 11th November
The schooner unfurled her sails this morning, it was a beautiful spectacle. I tried to photograph it but it’s very difficult to do from on the boat to get all the sails in, it needed really to be photographed from a distance. It was chilly first thing but we didn’t want to waste a moment of our time on the boat, so after a speedy breakfast we took a hot cuppa onto the top deck to watch our progress along the Sound. The water was like a millpond and the boat gently cut through the water. The mountains were mirrored perfectly in the water. We were very fortunate and saw penguins and dolphins. The penguins were preening themselves and hopping from rock to rock by the water’s edge under the trees on an island. We spotted the dolphins approaching from a way off. The boat was stopped and all the engines were turned off. Everyone stood on the decks, listening to the Sound of Silence. All we could hear was the birdsong from the trees on the surrounding mountains, the dolphins calling to each other and the gentle splashing as they swam past, flipping and jumping in joyous delight at just being alive. It was a magical moment, just us there with nature in the silence. Wonderful, certainly one of my highlights of our holiday.
The only drawback to this area is the sand flies. They look very much like the thunder flies we have at home, but they bite and boy do the bites itch!! Despite anti-bug spray I have 7 bites on my right foot and 9 on my left foot! The itching is driving me crazy and every now and then I give into the urge to scratch the relief is wonderful, but then immediately I regret giving in as the itching returns ten times worse. I have now slavered my feet in sting relief and pray it kicks in soon.
Arriving back at the quayside we had our outward journey in reverse so we boarded a coach to take us to the ferry and then another coach to bring us back to Queenstown and to Peppers Beacon Hotel. We didn’t arrive back until 4pm and were very tired by then. This time we were in a room right at the top and had amazing views over the lake and mountains. Our luggage was supposed to have been taken to our room but when we got in we had someone else’s luggage, a call to reception sorted it out, the receptionist had taken our luggage to the wrong room and we had their luggage. Sorted out in no time. Time to do all our washing and eat. We all wanted just to get something and cook it in our rooms again and not bother going out, so that’s what we did.Read more
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- Day 23
- Sunday, November 13, 2016 at 10:45 AM
- ☀️ 9 °C
- Altitude: 271 m
New ZealandPeggys Hill45°51’41” S 170°37’39” E
Queenstown to Dunedin and a Castle

Saturday 12th November
Before leaving Queenstown we wanted to ride on the cable car which goes to the top of the hill where there is a café and of more interest to us - a luge track. Janet wasn’t at all sure about going on the luge, but her reputation was at stake as her family at home did not believe she would do it and she wanted to prove them wrong! Arriving at the ticket office at 9.30am there was no queue and we were able to board the cable car immediately. Being on the edge of the city the cable car gives a fabulous view of the whole of Queenstown. We were surprised at how small Queenstown actually is. For some reason we thought it much larger. We strolled around at the top, taking photos of the view before wandering around to catch the 2 person chair lift up to the luge which was higher up the mountain and ran down to the cable car station. Rummaging in my pockets I realise I have lost my ticket, when I took out my phone to take photos it must have fallen out. Luckily the ticket office believe me and honour my ticket. Before we get to the ticket office we walk past the track – it’s a boys own dream! Windy track with hills, tunnels and steep banked bends with the riders in a 4-wheeled cart steered by a central handle that you pull back to stop, otherwise it just gains speed and momentum as it bombs down the track. There are two tracks, the blue starter track and the fast red track. All first timers have to go on the blue track to begin with. Getting into the cart was the first challenge, they are so low to the ground and unless you are either 18 or possess super supple joints it was not an easy or dignified sight. Once in you are given rudimentary instructions then, having passed the ‘test’, off you go! Well what super fun! Despite there being notices in BIG letters saying ‘no racing’, ‘no bumping’, ‘no overtaking’ and basically no fun, we went for it! Pete took an early lead but I was hot on his tail, Janet gallantly trundled along behind. Pete then made the fatal mistake of doing an emergency stop by pulling back on his handle and nearly jettisioning himself out. Taking full advantage, I tore past whooping loudly (no racing! Not likely), he was cursing and getting his luge going again. Just before Janet also overtook him he got going again and was soon right behind me but I wasn’t giving up that easily and didn’t allow him room to manoeuvre (no overtaking rule!). All too soon the finish was in sight and it was over. I was jubilant with my first place. We had one more go left. Peter and I opt for the faster red track, Janet preferred to stay with the blue. Peter was far more confident than I and raced away, leaning into and whizzing round the corners and actually taking off as we went over the steep hills, I was far more cautious and braked quite a lot to slow me down. We all agreed that the luge was huge fun and as we were leaving stopped to watch a group of twenty something guys tearing down the track, bumping, racing and overtaking but all having great fun – that’s what it’s all about.
We stopped again at Arrowtown as previously we had not visited the Chinese settlement where there are the ruins of huts – they could hardly be called houses, and stories about the migration of Chinese settlers to the area in the time of the gold rush and their subsequent mistreatment and isolation by the locals. Their living conditions and existence made harrowing reading at times.
Just outside Queenstown we came to a big bridge over a river with a bungee jump platform on the middle of the bridge. Never having seen anyone actually bungee before we were interested to stop and have a go, no not really, just to watch! It was quite fascinating really, we saw one guy back out, he was strapped in the harness and standing on the platform but just couldn’t go through with it, and another older guy around 60 who did it for the first time. A young girl swallow dived off whilst others just jumped or fell forwards. There was an optional hair wash as well which involved your head dipping in the water which some of them took up. Once they had done their jump a dingy, tethered to the bank hauled them on board and took them to the bank. All seemed jubilant at their achievement. Not for us though, far too scary and risky! Next to the bungee was a zip wire, this looked much tamer with seated harnesses and a short run alongside the river, not like the 2km zip lines we did in Costa Rica where you held onto a bar and were hooked on with just a mountaineer’s carabiner and a leather strap round your waist. That didn’t look challenging enough for us!
The drive to Dunedin was a long one so Peter and I shared the driving. It was through fairly deserted areas with an occasional shop, looking very sleepy and not very inviting. The roads were more or less deserted so we had no hold ups. We drove through rain showers and back out into sunshine, eventually arriving at Dunedin at 5pm. The final place we are staying on New Zealand is Lanarch Castle which says it is the only castle in New Zealand. Tired out we decide to have dinner at the castle which was an interesting and enjoyable affair. All the guests sit around a long table together whilst their chosen food is served. We were opposite a pleasant couple from Essex. Talking about our journey out we discovered they too had flown Emirates and enquired how they had found them. They looked a bit blank then the guy said they thought Emirates were ok; his wife had found a shower thing for her feet that she enjoyed and kept her amused. She laughed in agreement. At this point we realised they must have been upstairs, clearly not travelling cattle class like us!!Read more
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- Day 23
- Sunday, November 13, 2016 at 8:25 PM
- ⛅ 28 °C
- Altitude: 271 m
New ZealandPeggys Hill45°51’41” S 170°37’39” E
Around Larnach Castle and Dunedin

There was a light in the corridor outside our room that burned bright all night and was really irritating, Pete fixed that this morning, took off the cover and unscrewed the bulb. That should sort it. He will screw it back when we leave.
Since Janet and I are full of cold, coughing, sniffing and sneezing all over the place we did not fancy doing anything too strenuous, so we decided to explore the castle this morning and go to Dunedin this afternoon. As we are staying at the castle we could have a free audio tour. This was very interesting and gave a lot of the detail about the history of the house and its owners. It was like going round a stately home in the UK, all the rooms are furnished in period décor and furniture. It was built by William Larnach for his family. He was a very inventive and progressive person, even to the extent that he recycled horse and human sewage, harnessing the methane gas and using it to light the chandeliers in the house. However for all his work on the house and money his was not an entirely happy life and he ended up committing suicide when he was in his 50’s. His son also committed suicide when he was young as well. The current owners, the Barker family bought the castle in 1967 when it was in a poor state of repair and have spent years renovating it and furnishing it with period pieces. The gardens have been similarly renovated worked on mainly by Mrs Barker. They are a blaze of glorious colour and we can see that in a couple of weeks the laburnum arches will be a blaze of colour where at the moment they are hanging their pendulous buds in anticipation of spring sunshine and warmth. Similarly the delphiniums are budding up and promising a grand show of colour in a few short days. Shame we will not be here to see it. Scattered around the grounds in strategic places are various sculptures that enhance the gardens.
We drove into Dunedin and after finding a pharmacy to purchase more tissues and some decongestant – we can’t bear the thought of flying whilst this bunged up, we decided to go and see the Chinese Garden. It was small but very tranquil with all the elements expected. A lily filled pond, a zig-zag bridge over it, rocks with a waterfall and trellis with the Chinese fretwork everywhere. We found a relaxation garden with several circular tables and seats. On each table was laid out a different game for visitors to try. Janet and I sat down to enjoy a game of Chinese chequers. Peter tried moving marbles from one bowl to another using just chopsticks. It was so peaceful we loved it.
Next we went for a stroll in Dunedin Botanical Gardens. Although the huge glass houses were shut we did find an aviary with lots of large cages. There were many types of parrots and macaws housed there, some for breeding purposes to return fledglings to the wild. However having seen macaws and parrots flying wild in the Amazon it didn’t seem right for them to be caged for although the cages were large they could not compare to flying wild. It made me sad to see them so. Some did seem to be showing signs of boredom and frustration. The gardens though were beautiful, especially the rock garden. Tumbling cascades of colour covered the rocks, looking from afar like a multi-coloured tapestry.
Since Janet and I were fading fast we decided to grab a bite to eat and head back to the castle and our nice warm beds. An early night would be very welcome.Read more
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- Day 24
- Monday, November 14, 2016 at 8:30 PM
- ⛅ 26 °C
- Altitude: 71 m
New ZealandHarbour Cone45°51’12” S 170°37’50” E
Earthquake! Albatross & Penguins

Monday 14th November
As I felt so rough last night I put my phone on silent before going to bed. It has woken us in the night a few times with messages and alarms from home. Tonight we were determined to sleep well. But we overlooked earthquakes! At two minutes past midnight NZ time a massive earthquake 7.5 on Richter scale hit. Epicentre was around Hamner Springs, a few miles from Kaikoura. So when I awoke at around 6am and checked my phone I wondered what on earth was going on. I had missed calls from Bruce and Lois plus messages from friends and relatives. Once I looked at the messages I realised what had happened, I quickly woke Peter and we tuned into local radio and TV which is running updates on the damage and situation. Tsunami warnings in place along the east coast, Dunedin stood down from state of emergency (I hadn’t realised we were in a state of emergency!) Being in a castle we are on high ground so should be safe from tsunamis but we are due to go to see the albatross nesting sites and yellow eyed penguins down the road this morning.
10.50am –
• The interislander ferry has had to drop anchor at sea and is stranded outside Picton harbour as the landing port has been damaged.
• Kaikora cut off, no power, water or sewerage. Landslips blocked roads in and out of the town. Several houses demolished.
• Wellington had landslips
6.3 aftershock
18.00
• Military aircraft to airlift people from Kaikora
• Estimated repair at billions, taking days or weeks
• Dam breached on Canterbury’s Clarence river, lot of water to flow down to the sea, people advised to stay away
Severe storms forecast for tonight. We’re in for a wild one! Not helped by the super moon which will deliver high tides as well.
The albatross nesting site was very interesting. Because of high winds we were able to see fantastic flying displays from lots of seabirds. They have the Royal Albatross here. Saw an albatross sitting on an egg. Amazingly huge birds with a 3 metre wingspan that have to fold in 3 places to be put away. Watching them glide effortlessly on the storm winds is quite breathtaking. I’ve always loved the Fleetwood Mac song ‘Albatross’ and today it seemed very fitting. We walked up a steep hill to a hide which gave views over the top of the cliff where the albatross were nesting. One couple were very funny, they were nest building, a sort of gathering of stones, grasses and sticks on the ground. He had done his best and arranged the various bits in what he thought was an acceptable way. She however took one look at it and promptly took it apart stone by stone, grass blade by grass blade, stick by stick. She picked up bits and threw them away or replaced them in a different place. He looked at her disconsolately as she destroyed his hard work. Then he turned his back and started to waddle off down the grass path. We joked he said ‘right well I’m off down the pub’. Then he turned round and came back to help her, probably saying ‘I forgot my wallet’. Beautiful birds that seem to have a permanent smile.
The yellow eyed penguins were also special in their own way. Sadly, their numbers are declining on the mainland, breeding colonies also exist on some islands off the coast of New Zealand. They are private birds that do not gather in groups, preferring to pair off and just remain like that. No artic walk for hundreds of miles in a big gang like the emperor penguins. We saw one in a nesting hut with a chick which was pretty special and another sheltering alone in another hut. He was a lone male but as there are many more males than females he may have a long wait for a partner.
Stopping for lunch in a local pub on the way back we caught up with the earthquake news on the TV then with wild storms forecast we are back in our castle hunkered down to weather the storm before our early start tomorrow to fly to Bangkok from Dunedin via Auckland.Read more
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- Day 26
- Wednesday, November 16, 2016 at 6:23 PM
- ⛅ 30 °C
- Altitude: 10 m
ThailandSukhumvit13°44’31” N 100°33’19” E
Planes, Trains and a Crazy Tuk-Tuk

Tuesday 15th November &
Wednesday 16th November
Left early at 7am on 15th Nov to get to Dunedin airport. Despite the chaos of the last few days the airports are all operational with no problems reported. Our New Zealand airways flight was in a more spacious aircraft than the one we had on the outward journey so was much more comfortable. It was on time and we duly arrived at Auckland to catch our Emirates flight to Bangkok. It was a full flight but was doing a stop in Sydney where a lot of passengers got off. We rejoined it for the next leg of its flight to Bangkok – 14hrs 40mins, a long flight by any standard and we were not looking forward to it. However there were hardly any passengers on it so when it came to sleep time lots of people stretched out over 4 seats and spread around the plane. I didn’t but Peter did and said it was very comfy. Actually as it was so empty it would have been good if the crew had said ‘hey guys there’s not many in first class and we have loads of empty seats, how about you come up to see how you like it’ No chance! I have to say we all managed a fair bit of decent sleep and the journey sped by so before we knew it we were landing in Bangkok. It was 1.30am and we had a bit of kerfuffle finding our taxi we had booked, but finally we sorted it out with a bit of help from another hotel rep who rang our rep to find out where he was. We finally arrived in our hotel rooms at 04.00am 16th Nov. I wasn’t particularly tired, but I was weary. We crawled into bed and promptly fell asleep only to be woken a half hour later by a message coming in from Lois telling us the family meal had been sorted for 26th Nov! Surprisingly sleep returned and we grabbed a few more hours before deciding to get up and shower, breakfast and hit the road.
The hotel is centrally positioned in Bangkok, we are on the 6th floor, the same level as the swimming pool. Unfortunately although we have balconies our view is of the next door building which does make the room a bit darker. Apart from that the room is spacious, Janet feels it is a bit tired and said she saw a cockroach scuttle across her bathroom. We suggested she ask to move rooms but she said she won’t as we are only here for 3 nights. Perhaps we are more tolerant as we have frequently shared our rooms with various creatures and bugs, I recall Colin the cockroach who lived in my spongebag when we stayed in a cabin in the Amazon rainforest – he gave me a shock when I reached in for something in the night, and not switching on the light I just put my hand in and felt Colin – made me jump. We have also shared our bedrooms with various ghekkos, lizards, beetles and centipedes in lodges in Africa. Once a centipede curled up in my trousers overnight when we were camping in the Ruaha Game Park, then when I pulled them on in the morning bit me on the bum – it really hurt and I did a frantic dance around the tent trying to see what had bit me. Bats flying round in the evening on their way off to feed are also interesting – it happens when your lodge has no glass in the windows as is frequently the case in the tropics.
The heat in Bangkok is overwhelming, much hotter than Hong Kong. The trains are fantastic to ride in, not only do they have great graphics and drawings on the outside, they give the impression of having no windows, yet when you get in they are one way windows, so you can see out perfectly well but no-one can see in. They are also deliciously cool, with very efficient air conditioning – London Transport could learn a trick or two here! We wandered round some shops and a couple of markets before deciding we were too hot to carry on so we hailed a tuk-tuk, negotiated what we thought was a fair price and jumped in. Our chosen tuk-tuk was a smart affair driven by a smiley young chap who was keen to get us to stop at a tailor shop on the way back. We refused this offer recognising it as a sales pitch which we were in no mood to engage with. It was only when I went to get in the tuk-tuk I realised the floor at the back was higher than expected, only about 6 inches lower than the seat and polished chrome. There was not a lot of headroom either and being the first to get in I found myself kneeling on the floor and sliding over to my seat on my knees – not a very dignified entrance! We wedged Janet in-between Peter and I as we figured it would be less hair-raising for her in the middle. Our driver sped out into the traffic, obviously, a frustrated pro-racing driver. He dived in and out, between cars and spaces you would not have thought he could squeeze into. Then he was up onto a flyover, toe to the floor, roaring along, head and shoulders low over the handlebars, gripping them tightly. Now for those of you who don’t know perhaps I should enlighten you that a tuk-tuk is basically a three-wheeler souped up scooter with what sounds like a lawnmower engine. The front windscreen is optional and if present is usually adorned with rosaries, garlands, effigies of various gods, good luck poems stitched on pieces of fabric and photos. This leaves very little screen for the driver to see through. There are no glass windows around the sides or rear of the vehicle, passengers are completely open to the elements and the fumes from other vehicles. So, taking you back to the flyover, we were hitting speeds we had not thought possible from a tuk-tuk, the wind felt at g-force level around our faces, our hair flying out behind us (well perhaps not Peter’s, but he had a fixed smile/grimace on his face as we hared along). Janet was also laughing; I think it was laughter not hysteria! Thankfully we weren’t long on the flyover but as soon as we came off it we joined a heavy traffic jam on the city roads and ground to a halt. Our driver was very frustrated at this lack of progress but he had a simple solution – do a u turn in the face of oncoming cars and motor bikes bearing down on us and seek an alternative route. Janet shut her eyes, I gasped and Peter laughed. It’s obviously an accepted way of driving for no-one hooted us, no swearing or shaking of fists, other road users simply swerved around us.
It is a source of constant fascination to me the way people, in other Asian countries mainly, travel on mopeds. I watched as a guy rode past with his girlfriend/sister/wife perched on the back riding side saddle, one dainty leg neatly crossed over the other. She was not holding onto him or the moped, instead she was staring intently at her phone texting someone!! Incredible, it had to be seen to be believed, unfortunately I wasn’t quick enough to catch a photo this time, but I will try later because they are always doing it.
Back to our tuk-tuk, we had joined another traffic jam despite his best efforts at finding an alternative route. Undeterred he had another trick up his sleeve, positioning himself in the outside lane, as soon as there was a gap in the oncoming traffic he swung out and raced along up the wrong side of the road effectively queue jumping all those in front patiently waiting their turn. Traffic came towards us, threatening a head-on collision, but our guy had nerves of steel and drove relentlessly on. Again, this must be a common occurrence for I noticed other tuk-tuk’s following in our wake, but nonetheless it was a bit disconcerting for us at the front of the line driving into oncoming traffic. With a whoop of joy, he dodged them all, and they him and we swung round the corner into the approach road of our hotel. As we arrived outside our hotel he rode up onto the pavement outside the hotel and screeched to a halt. The doorman strode out towards our tuk-tuk, grim faced, no doubt to reprimand him and ask what on earth he was doing driving his tuk-tuk onto the pavement outside their hotel. Then he spotted us climbing out of the tuk-tuk, (climbing out was no less elegant than climbing in for me dear readers) and quickly smiled and enquired if we had had a good shopping trip. We paid the driver – tipping him generously for such an eventful and enjoyable journey and took photographs of him and his tuk-tuk. Walking into the cool, elegant lobby of the hotel with its lift music tinkling gently in the background; we were conscious of the staff looking at us, the receptionists, concierge, security and doorman. We were windswept to the extreme, very hot and sweaty and had rocked up in a tuk-tuk driven by a crazy driver! They must have wondered what things were coming to and how standards had slipped!Read more