Three go to New Zealand 2016

October - November 2016
A 27-day adventure by Chrissie Read more
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  • Day 11

    Napier – Art Deco Heritage

    November 1, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Tuesday 1st November
    Following recommendations from Wendy and Peter we decided to do an Art Deco walk run by the Art Deco Heritage Trust in the centre of Napier. The walks are run by volunteers and take groups around the streets describing them before the huge earthquake at 10.47am Feb 3rd 1931 which measured 7.8 on the Richter scale that totally devastated Napier and to a lesser extent surrounding towns. The sea bed rose 2.5m, which meant that ships and boats in the harbour found themselves on dry land as the sea receded. The town grew in 8,000 hectares of land space in just over two minutes. Almost immediately after the great earthquake fires sprang up, ignited by Bunsen burners in pharmacies and these fires raged and spread for two days doing much more damage than the earthquake. Firemen could not put out the fire even when they tried to draw water from the sea as the pebbles blocked their hoses. The fires had to be left to burn out, devastating everything that was left after the quake. Fortunately, a photographer who survived the quake had the foresight to race back to his shop after the quake, grab a camera and went around photographing the damage done by the earthquake. Without this man’s photos, there would be no record of it as the fire swept through shortly afterwards.

    Since it was the time of the great depression all manual labourers in New Zealand flocked to Napier to help rebuild it as there was no other work to be had. Bankrolled by two men, an engineer and a banker the town rose from the ashes in about 3 years. They refused to allow buildings to be thrown up hastily, they planned and designed the new town, it was in Art Deco style. Napier lived on. A few of the iconic buildings have been pulled down in the 70’s before it was realised their historical significance, but a lot survive and with the support of all the townsfolk no new building is allowed unless it is in keeping with the Art Deco theme of the town as designed by the two original men. The buildings have the architectural design of the 20’s complete with colours and typeface. There are lots of shops catering to that period and once a year in February the whole town has a week of festivities remembering that era with everyone dressing up and taking part in activities befitting of the era. I think it would be wonderful to return then.

    After the tour, we spent a while walking around soaking up the atmosphere. Napier is on the coast and has a wonderful floral display by the beachfront although the beach is pebbly and not sandy. However, there are fountains which dance to music by day and are coloured by night, a glorious sight. The sea is a pale turquoise in the shallows, gradually changing to an azure blue in the deeper water. With the cornflower blue skies and the Tui bird making its distinctive sound around us it was heavenly standing looking out to sea soaking up the moment, trying to commit it to memory.

    To add to the atmosphere there was a vintage car company who had 5 or 6 cars parked on the front. All the drivers were dressed in 1920’s clothes and you could hire one to take you on a tour of the town. I particularly liked a little green sports number with the number plate ‘What Ho!’

    After stopping for the obligatory cup of tea and cake we decided it was time to move on. One of the problems of being such a beautiful town is that the big cruise liners dock there and disgorge vast numbers of tourists all at once into the town. The Sea Princess had just docked; it was a huge ship and passengers were just filtering into the town. Time for us to depart.

    We jumped in the car and drove to Bluff Peak, a high point at one end of Napier which afforded fabulous views over the dockyard where we could see a container ship being loaded as well as the Sea Princess in dock, boy it was a huge cruiser! There were also lots of huge tree trunks stacked in open crates, presumably waiting to be shipped somewhere for telegraph poles or the like. At the top was a beautiful rock garden which was obviously very well loved and cared for. The spring flowers were in full bloom and it was a riot of colour, full of pinks, purples, yellows, oranges, reds and whites, so very very pretty.

    From here we drove onto Te Anu peak an even higher peak which had even further reaching views than the Bluff Peak. It was a steep climb up the hill to the peak, on a very narrow road, the last 500yds were particularly hairy as there was a sheer drop on one side of the road and few passing places. Thankfully we made it up without meeting any other vehicle. The views were wonderful and it was possible to see miles and miles into the distance. We were fortunate it was a clear sunny day which no doubt helped.

    Tonight, we ate at 3 Doors Up in Napier, very tasty and recommended.
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  • Day 12

    Napier to Wellington and a white kiwi

    November 2, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Wednesday 2nd November Daily Mileage 372
    Cumulative Mileage 1,004

    So sad to say bye bye to Wendy and Peter, they have been wonderful hosts and even gave us a typewritten sheet of ideas for stops on the journey to Wellington. Special people.
    We have a long old drive ahead of us today, so after one of Peter’s ‘specials’ for which he is renowned which consists of a full English fry up beautifully finished off with parsley and black pepper, Peter and Janet were ready for the road. I kept to my usual fruit, muesli and yoghurt which agrees with me much better than a fry up. We broke the journey by stopping at Pukaha, a bird conservation place in Mount Bruce. They do a lot of work creating habit for, amongst other birds, kiwi’s and we thought this was our best chance of seeing them. They have the only white kiwi in the world, it is not an albino, but both parents had the recessive white gene which produced a white chick. World media went wild when she was born in 2011 and there was extensive coverage on the news. As they are nocturnal birds they were inside in a large night light enclosure. We were very lucky and saw both birds, they are not always seen so we did feel privileged. The white hen kiwi was nearly twice the size of her brown mate and at one point was chasing him around the enclosure pecking and jumping on him. They were both letting out shrill cries and did not sound very happy. Must have been having a domestic!! Apart from birds there were also some very large eels in a river that ran through the reserve. Peter was keen to go to see them fed so we headed off in that direction. When the staff who were doing the talk asked if anyone would like to feed the eels his hand shot up. There was a short plank suspended above the water which he stood on. The food was in a large plastic bucket, he scooped it up onto a long handled flat ladle and balancing on the plank of wood leant out over the river and offered the ladle low on the surface of the water to the eels. Janet and I were stood on the path on the bank of the river and could see the writhing, seething mass of eels waiting in anticipation for food. They were huge eels, the biggest were at least 6’ long with a thick girth as well! The food comprised of kitchen scraps, a couple of eggs and a mouse that had been caught in a trap somewhere all mixed up in a mash. The eels seemed to love it and were sucking the spoon to get the food. Peter loved it, he said it made his day.

    Making our way to the café, we saw some Kaka parrots sitting on the backs of chairs on the veranda. They are a large brown and green parrot with a red breast who indigenous to New Zealand. Creeping onto the veranda we managed to get a couple of photos before they flew off when some noisy children came out. We had a tea and cake in their shop then, feeling much refreshed hopped back into the car and pressed on to Wellington. The road took us over some high mountains, the road twisting and turning steeply as it wound up the sides. There were passing places which offered motorists the opportunity to pass the large double trailer articulated lorries that also used the route. Peter let cars behind us know his intention to overtake by putting on the windscreen wipers and pulling out. Fortunately none were so close for it to be a problem, but it made Janet and I laugh every time he did it. We also saw lots of police speed traps and as in the UK drivers coming towards us flashed their lights to warn us of the trap. Peter responded by squirting the windscreen washers and giving the thumbs up – more laughter from us all.

    Upon our arrival in Wellington we saw a familiar sight moored in the port – the Sea Princess, she must have sailed from Napier around the coast overnight to Wellington.

    We were making our way to our accommodation when we went round a corner and whoooaa, found ourselves at the top of the steepest hill I have seen and a very steep gradient too. It was like being at the top of a big dipper rollercoaster. Gulping we started down the hill, discovering that our B&B was halfway down! We pulled over, making sure the handbrake was securely on and unloaded the car. Peter then took it back to Thrifty rental depot. We don’t have a car in Wellington and will be catching the ferry to the South Island afterwards where we will pick up a new car. Our new hosts, Ann and Dartrey Lamb are very pleasant and recommended a pub in the town for a meal. We got caught in a heavy shower on the way back and ended up rather wet.
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  • Day 14

    Steep Hills of Wellington

    November 4, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Thursday 3rd November
    Ann cooked a fabulous breakfast for Janet and Peter, there was so much as well! They did the best they could but they couldn’t manage it all. I had fresh fruit, muesli and yoghurt, delicious and I was impressed that the cornflakes on offer were Kellogg’s, not a shop own brand which are nasty and soggy or taste odd. Kellogg’s are the best and it is a measure of the establishment in my mind if they have Kellogg’s or not. Ann got a big tick in this box, she is the only place so far who has had Kellogg’s. Ann also came up trumps with the washing. We asked for the whereabouts of the nearest laundrette and she insisted on doing it in her machine and pegging it out to dry. Very kind of her.

    We were due to be picked up for a tour of The Lord of the Rings filming locations and the Weta Film Studios. However, despite confirming the tour last night by phone the guide failed to turn up. We rang again and they said they had contacted our agent several times and had we not had the messages, well, we knew that was not true because our agents have been in touch by email about an itinerary change at the glacier so I’m sure they would have passed on queries from the tour firm. I think that because the place we were staying does not have a website they couldn’t find it, and didn’t bother to ring us back to ask. It was rather annoying, but we put it to one side and concentrated on the tour, we weren’t going to let it spoil our day.

    The tour took us to various locations in Wellington where The Lord of the Rings filming took place. The guide had still shots from the film and showed us where they were in real life, some had been shot using clever angles and he shared other tricks of the trade which made it more interesting. For instance, there was a thick spooky wood that was used for the scenes where the hobbits were fleeing from the The Black Riders, the Ringwraiths, he explained that where the scene of the Ringwraith sitting on the horse silhouetted against the night sky was filmed, the horse had steamy breath which was fine, but so did the actor, which was no good because they were supposed to be neither living nor dead, they were in-between according to the book so they couldn’t have breath. To get around that problem rather than spend $10,000+ on digitally altering the picture they purchased a $10 snorkel and got the actor to wear it with the tube going down his back, so there was no breath steam. The character had a fabric hood over his head so that concealed the snorkel, problem solved at a budget price. The excursion also included a tour of the Weta Film Studios. This was very interesting. It is a studio that does special effects for lots of films. We saw how they made silicone masks for monsters – a speciality of theirs. Their boast was that they could make plastic look like anything they wanted. Indeed they had what to the naked eye looked like metal swords or chainmail or armour but it was all plastic, very effective and convincing, they are masters at their art. Because of their skill they are sought after and have manufactured monsters, gore, and all manner of special effects for loads of films, many that I had never heard of but include Avatar and HellBoy as well as the Hobbit and the Lord of the Rings.

    We were dropped off by the cable car station to catch it to the top of the hill to the Botanical Gardens. Wellington is a very hilly city; the streets are incredibly steep in places. Some of the residential houses that were perched on hillsides actually had their own personal single person cable car to get them from the road to their house. These looked very Heath Robinson and apparently have no health and safety regulations covering them so I’m not sure I would like to trust one to get me to my house. We had a map of the Botanical Gardens; unfortunately, it bore no resemblance to the pathways and we couldn’t make head nor tail of it. Also, it failed to say that the gardens were, as usual, on a very steep slope so walking around involved lots of steep slopes and stairs. We quickly became very tired and puffed out. We were trying to head for the Rose Garden Café which had been recommended to us but it took us ages of trudging around in circles before we came across it. In fact, we cheated because we saw a sign for the steep slopes route to the café or the easy route – guess which we took! The easy route involved going out the gates, walking down the flat road and back in some other gates further along – much easier. The café was a welcome refuge after all the walking, we were starting to flag badly and our feet were throbbing. Still after a cuppa and something to eat we felt a bit better – ready to tackle the hills back to the cable car down to the city.

    Wellington is also home to the excellent Te Papa Museum which tells the history of NZ and includes an earthquake simulator. New Zealand is a young country that has only been populated for around 800 years, there were life stories of immigrants, New Zealand’s stance on nuclear weapons and a very moving exhibition on Gallipoli which had gigantic models of people, of soldiers and nurses with realistic set ups of war time conditions and what happened. I found it extremely moving, as much as visiting the war graves in Ypres had been. I would recommend anyone with an interest in the wars to visit this. I knew that New Zealand is a landmass straddling two plates of the earth but there was a lot of information about how the earth is formed, how it developed, the plates of the earth and the history of volcanos and earthquakes. It was extremely interesting and of course so relevant to this country who experience an earthquake every day although most are very weak.

    We were so exhausted by all our walking today that we just wanted an easy meal. However, this is not very likely when I’m around as I am such a fussy eater. I was even getting exasperated with myself! Finally, after rejecting lots of eateries we settled on a bistro who agreed to cook me an omelette. I do wish I could eat anything it would make life so much easier.
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  • Day 14

    WOW, Hair Washing

    November 4, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Friday 4th November
    Daily Mileage 87
    Cumulative Mileage 1,091

    Another early start as we were due to catch the 9am Interislander ferry from Wellington for the 3hr trip to Picton where we were picking up another rental car and driving 2 hours to Nelson. Dartrey kindly offered to give us a lift to the ferry terminal.

    The trip took 3 hours, our new rental car turned out to be exactly the same as our old one, even the same colour. We sped off as we wanted to get to the WOW museum in Nelson. It was 2.5 hrs drive away, it was already 1pm and it shut at 5pm. We made up a bit of time even though the roads were very twisty and turny and arrived around 3pm. We had our customary cuppa and dived into the museum. WOW stands for the World of Wearable Art & Classic Cars Museum. It was recommended to us by a couple of old work colleagues; and it was a good tip, we loved it. The fashions were whacky and pretty way out, but interesting to look at. I couldn’t imagine ever wearing any of the creations, but I don’t think that was what it was about, it was more about the creativity and interpretation of something rather than the wearability. I found the classic cars the most interesting, I just love classic cars. They had loads there, real old vintage cars from the 1900’s right up to cars from my youth in the 1970’s. It seems so strange that cars I remember are classics. There was a Triumph Herald 1200 which was my first car, except mine was sea green and theirs was red. There was also a Ford Anglia which I remember my Dad had and we used to travel everywhere in it. His was a pale blue and my Aunty Beryl and Uncle Roy had a navy one. We all used to travel around together in them. There was the car from the film ‘Christine’, a gorgeous fire red Plymouth Fury. Typical the one thing that gets the same name as me has to be a car in a horror film! Still I took photos of it and may change my Facebook picture to it and see if anyone makes the connection. Some of the 1950’s American cars were just fab. It’s incredible how long they were, I can’t imagine parking them in the supermarket car park they would stick out a mile. Every car there was in immaculate condition, all gleaming and shining as if they were new. They had been lovingly and carefully restored very sympathetically to original colours etc. Most of the cars had a synopsis of their history on a notice by the car which was very interesting. I glazed over when it talked about the mechanics of the car but found the bits about where the car was found and how it was restored of much more interest. Eventually a member of staff came round to tell us they were closing so we jumped into our car and sped to our bed for the night. We have struck gold again! We are staying at Joya Villa and Studio. It is run by Paulina, a lady from the Netherlands who came to NZ 16 years ago and teaches autistic children in a revolutionary way. The villas are immaculate and come complete with a kitchenette and lounge as well as music and tv. The back garden is long and slopes steeply down, our villa is a log cabin about 2/3’s of the way down, Janet’s villa is on higher ground above ours with views of a stream and a lawn with a circular timber table surrounded by circular timber seating. Our villa looks out over a pond that dwarfs even our lake! It has a little stream running into it and an island with a drawbridge which apparently the children just love. The roof of our villa is a living roof of succulents which at the moment are in flower and look lovely, Janet can see our roof from her villa. We strolled into town – about 12 minutes to a pub – the Vic where we had a lovely meal. It’s another early start tomorrow, we have to be on the road by 7am to drive back to Kaikoura, about 3.5hrs away to go whale watching – I am seriously excited about that. Janet is getting in a bit of a panic about the early starts as she has to plan her hair washing. Does she have enough time in the morning or should she wash it the night before and risk going to bed with damp hair and waking up with vertical hair. Such a dilemma. We reminded her that we will be on a boat at sea tomorrow so it is likely to get wet with sea water and be blown around. Everyone’s hair will be a bit of a mess by the end of the day. She nodded and agreed that she would be better to wash it tomorrow night. Sorted! (I didn’t tell her we are at sea again the following day swimming with dolphins, I’ll remind her of that tomorrow).
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  • Day 15

    Kaikoura - Whales – what Whales

    November 5, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Saturday 5th November
    Daily Mileage 247
    Cumulative Mileage 1,391

    An early start today as we had to be on the road by 7am. Paulina prepared an organic breakfast for us, insisting we started with a hot lemon and ginger drink to cleanse our sinuses. This was followed by organic yogurt, muesli, grapes, dates, dried apricots soaked in redbush tea rounded off with a small cheese omelette. She also gave us some croissants for the road.

    I drove the first couple of hours to Kaikoura; the roads were quiet as it was early so we bowled along nicely, eating up the miles, snaking round the mountains along the windy roads. At one point I found myself following two gorgeous vintage cars, a Bentley and a Rolls Royce open top. The Roller was racing along pulling away from the Bentley and me at one point (and I was going at the speed limit of 100kph), then the Bentley put his foot down and tore off away from me too. I was left just pootling along. After a while I caught up with the Bentley and we spent a few miles behind it admiring it. It had a black roof and a gunmetal grey body, with the spare tyre in a matching metal cover on the boot. There were big spotlight lights on the front and the man driving it had a wide brimmed straw hat, which oddly seemed to suit the car. For vintage cars, they sure had a turn of speed and could, if asked, zip along and more than hold their own against modern cars. Finally, the driver of the Roller held a yellow padded gloved hand aloft in the way a policeman does to stop traffic, this was obviously a signal to his mate in the Bentley that they were going to stop as they both slowed down and pulled over.

    After a stop for a takeaway cuppa – sorry no photo as it was at a roadside café and not very picturesque, Peter took over driving. A little way outside of Kaikoura we spotted a few motorhomes and cars pulled into a large parking bay by the edge of the sea. It looked interesting and we wanted to stretch our legs so we also parked up. When we got out of the car we saw there was a colony of seals all around us in the rocks by the sea. People were wandering around taking photos, it was very relaxed and we joined in. There were large male seals claiming territory on the top of big rocks, chasing off smaller seals who dared to try to clamber up. Most of them were lying on rocks in the sun just resting and sleeping, but some of the youngsters were messing around in the water the way juveniles do. It was an entertaining and relaxing break for half an hour or so.

    We arrived at the Whaling Station early and adjourned to the café which was a bit of a disaster as they forgot my food and Peter and Janet’s chicken and vegetable soup was lukewarm and greasy on top – not nice. Then there was an announcement, the whaling trip was cancelled as the spotter planes had not been able to locate any in the area at all. We were very disappointed but realise that wildlife is unpredictable so it couldn’t be helped. We went on the waiting list for a later trip but that too was cancelled. So instead we checked into our B&B, Nikau Lodge to dump our bags off and went into town to browse around then headed to Half Moon Bay to explore the rock pools. There were some seals there too, not nearly as many as we had seen earlier on. There was one with a big bite mark on its back. A local said he had been caught by a boat propeller and was being watched to make sure he is ok. He had been around the beach for about a week.
    We are on the wait list for whale watching tomorrow afternoon and if that fails we can get a plane to fly over them instead so we are keeping our fingers crossed they may come back into the area tomorrow.

    I have included a photo of the view from our bedroom window. Our B&B is on a headland over the town with beautiful sea views.
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  • Day 16

    Swimming with Dolphins

    November 6, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Sunday 6th November
    We had an 8am Swim with the Dolphins trip today so we were up early and ready at the meet point. I wasn’t at all confident about swimming in the open ocean with the dolphins but put on a wetsuit in case. Peter was very keen to do it and Janet had decided just to watch. The boat was like a substantial cabin cruiser but very powerful with a couple of wide steps into the sea at each side at the rear of the boat. The bottom step was in the ocean and had grab rails around it. It only took about 20 mins to get to where the dolphins were thought to be. After a quick tutorial on snorkelling and tips on how to attract the interest of the dolphins the horn blasted which was the signal that dolphins had been seen and it was ok to go into the water. The crew knew I was very nervous about the whole thing and I was holding back to the end of the group before going in the water. I have a strong gag reflex and do tend to panic if I start to gag, often ending up hyperventilating. My biggest fear was that this would happen in the ocean when I was snorkelling and I might drown. However, I really did want to swim with the dolphins and this got the better of my fear, so very gingerly and with lots of encouragement from the crew, after everyone else had gone, I sat on the rear step of the boat and, with a last deep breath slipped into the sea. It was cold and this did make me gasp a bit but that was not scary. I also had a floatation jacket on as I thought this might give me confidence I could not drown, but in fact it got in the way more than helped and I kept rolling over so I decided to replace it with a noodle. This was also a bit of a hindrance so I decided to go with just a float. I found this much better. By now it was time for everyone to come back on board as the dolphins had moved and the crew wanted to drive the boat closer to where they had gone to. The boat stopped again and everyone got back into the water. Peter was doing well and was in the crowd with the dolphins swimming around them. Once again I slipped in and for a few minutes managed to paddle around near the back of the boat with my face in the water, breathing correctly through my snorkel and looking for dolphins. I felt a little more confident now so when we had to go back to the boat to move on again I thought I would go in once more. I preferred waiting until the end as I felt no pressure to keep up. The crew kept calling out encouragement and I managed to swim around a little but not as well as before and began to panic about being in the sea, the boat seemed a long way away but in reality, was no more than 10-12’. I was really scared now and splashing around. I got myself closer to the boat and one of the crew leant down and I was half dragged whilst pulling myself as best I could to scramble onto the step. I firmly decided not to go in again and I think really I should not have gone in the third time as when I got back on board I felt very queasy. I managed to get dressed and sat next to an American Chinese lady who had only been in the water once but was also not very confident and felt sick too. Brightly coloured buckets were given to each of us in case we felt we needed to use them. Neither of us was actually sick thankfully. However, I continued to feel panicky on the boat and began to hyperventilate. The crew were very good and talked to me calmly which helped and wrapped me in a big blanket which was very cosy. Back on land I sat on a bench by the boat, still feeling rather ill, one of the other swimmers who was a doctor came to see if I was ok which was very kind of him. We went back to our B&B where we had hot showers and I had a lay down which helped. The feeling of being on a boat bobbing around continued for several hours though which was not pleasant. I think basically I had got myself over worried about the whole thing which just made me have a bit of a panic attack and to start to hyperventilate, I am normally ok on boats. The whale watching was cancelled this afternoon again as the whales had still not come into the area, which was just as well really as I didn’t feel like going on another boat today. I had really wanted to swim with dolphins and the reason I went back into the water was because I wanted to see one through my mask swim past or around me. Sadly, I didn’t see any through my mask, but they were in the water near me so I think I will give myself half a mark for being in the water with them nearby. Peter did very well though and thoroughly enjoyed it. Both he and Janet got some photos of the dolphins.Read more

  • Day 17

    Kaikoura to Hokitika

    November 7, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Monday 7th November
    Daily Mileage 380
    Cumulative Mileage 1,771
    Today was the longest drive of the holiday from Kaikoura to Hokitika via the Lewis Pass. The Lewis Pass was beautiful but unfortunately there were very few places to stop and many of the ones there were had the view obscured by big trees. It was unlike Canada where every scenic route had lots of parking bays both side of the road and we were able to get great photos. We did several tea and loo stops on the way to break the journey, arriving at Hokitika at 3.30pm. We are staying at Bella Vista Motel tonight. We had trouble finding somewhere to stay in the area that we all liked and this motel seemed about the best we could find. However when we arrived we were pleasantly surprised, the rooms are spacious with a kitchenette and perfectly adequate and clean bathroom. We just had time to walk into town to look around. Paua shell jewellery is everywhere but I found some that I thought was particularly nice and purchased some matching earrings, necklace and ring. It was starting to rain so we ducked into a café for a meal. Unfortunately, by the time we finished it was raining hard and just-in-case Janet had failed to pack her umbrella in her backpack so we ribbed her about that for a bit.

    Sorry no photos today bit of a boring day, just driving.
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  • Day 18

    Hokitika to Haast

    November 8, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Tuesday 8th November
    We woke to see low cloud over the mountains, not a good sign as we were booked to go on a Heli-hike up Franz Joseph Glacier and in such conditions, it was highly likely the helicopters would not fly for health & safety reasons. Still we had an 85km drive there so we hoped the weather would be better in Haast. When we arrived at the guide centre for the Heli-hike we were advised that the pilots were still deciding whether or not to fly to the glacier. Helicopters were buzzing around and we were hopeful. However, we found out that the Heli-hike went much higher than they were flying and the concern was that if they got us up there they could not guarantee being able to land again after our 2hr hike to bring us back down. After hearing this I was mightily relieved when the decision was made to cancel all the helicopter trips apart from the scenic rides which flew lower. We could have transferred to a scenic ride but thought that as we had flown over a glacier in a small plane in Canada we didn’t think it would be worth it as one glacier is much the same as another from the air and it would have invalidated our refund.

    So as not to completely waste the day we took ourselves off on a walk to look at the glacier from a nearby viewpoint. It looked like a beautiful ice blue torrent of water with white tipped waves frozen as it flowed from the top of the mountain only just visible through the low cloud. We then drove onto Haaat, to find our bed for the night. It was another motel. Not too bad. Free laundry facilities which is a bonus and an opportunity to catch up on washing. It has beautiful lawned grounds with a big pond opposite our room, but the driving rain and leaden skies didn’t enhance the view at all. Dinner at the on-site bar/café the Hard Antler – bit of a bizarre name, it was a large rectangular building like a Nissan hut with the girders on view inside over which were hung loads of antlers from various deer.
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  • Day 22

    Aftermath of the Great Storm

    November 12, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Wednesday 9th November
    After finishing the blog on Tuesday 8th November, posting it and turning in for the night, it all started to kick off! First we heard a very loud, deep rumbling and wondered if it was thunder, but it seemed too intense. Then the pyrotechnic show started, the sky lit up with sheet lightning and the thunder crashed in unison. Peeping out of our door we watched as our white car, parked directly outside our room seemed to light up, the white colour becoming even more luminous and bright. The heavens opened and the rain fell. It came down in absolute torrents, it was a deluge. We lay in bed and listened to the rain pounding on the tin roof of our single storey chalet. I couldn’t remember if Janet was afraid of thunderstorms or not and wondered if she was ok, on the other hand she could be absolutely fine and enjoying the spectacle. The storm continued unabated throughout the night for many hours. It was trapped between the mountains in the valley where we were and swirled round and around. One minute it seemed to settle, the rain stopped, the lightning ceased and the thunder died away, then all of a sudden with an almighty crash the skies lit up and the rain hammered down again, echoing on the tin roof. We wondered how close we were to the river, what if it burst its banks? Perhaps the management would come round pounding on doors telling everyone to leave and get to higher ground! Around 5am there was a huge bang, much louder than anything else which woke Peter up – amazingly he managed to slumber through the storm having earlier pulled on my coat and going outside to watch it. When he came in he fell asleep fairly easily, until the big bang! Later on, when we got up and gingerly peered outside to inspect the damage, we learnt that there was a direct lightning hit on the property next door, melting the phone to the wall. It was the worst storm in living memory! People were stranded at our motel as all roads north to Fox and Franz Joseph were blocked by landslides. We had planned to go on a wildlife boat trip in the morning but there was a call to say the river was too high and they couldn’t take the boats out. We are blaming Janet’s unlucky jumper. She ruefully admitted that she had been wearing it when we were due to go whale watching and again when we turned up to go heli-hiking. I think she was probably wearing it in bed last night too. Janet is keeping suspiciously quiet about the whole thing. I rest my case.

    Our route was taking us south to Queenstown which TomTom predicted would take 3hrs. In fact it took us nearer 7 hours because we did lots of stops on the way. The upside of the great storm was that all the rivers and waterfalls were swollen beyond belief and took on a newfound beauty. As we drove along it was apparent that everyone was doing the same as cars, campervans and motorhomes were pulled off the road every few kms to look at a magnificent waterfall or rapids. Seeing a group of vehicles at one layby we too pulled over and walked through a mossy wood, hopping through deep puddles to get to the edge of the river where, on the opposite bank we could see Roaring Billy – a huge waterfall, its waters swelled by the overnight rain, ejected from the top of a clifftop as if fired from a water cannon then falling down the side of the cliff into the tumultuous churning waters of the river below. It was an awe-inspiring sight. Further along the road we stopped to see Thunder Creek falls, higher, not as wide but similarly swollen. Again, we walked to the edge of the river on the opposite bank. The mist from the falls filled the air all around us, soaking our hair and clothes, we shielded our cameras as best we could from the mist. Alongside all the roads newly created waterfalls sprung from crevices and fissures in the rock-face adjacent to the road, tumbling into gullies along the edge of the roads and from there seeping into the rivers all around causing them to roar through the valleys and gorges gouging out new channels and threatening to flood surrounding land.
    We stopped for lunch at Boundary Creek picnic and camping ground. It was on the shores of Lake Wanaka. By now the skies were cornflower blue with wisps of white cloud whilst the waters of Lake Wanaka were a deep sapphire blue surrounded by green mountains dotted with trees. We walked along the water’s edge, picking up interesting looking stones, admiring the vast quantities of driftwood scattered along the shoreline. Some had been fashioned into makeshift shelters and camps, presumably by children or campers. It was the sort of moment you want to bottle and remember for ever.

    Carrying on our journey we were held up by a large landslide which covered half the road. Three men on ropes were precariously suspended up the cliff-face carrying out routine maintenance, clearing debris that would otherwise fall and cause more problems. Talking to the supervisor on the ground she explained that tomorrow a couple of helicopters were coming to sluice the cliff tomorrow scooping water up from the lake in giant buckets then dropping the water onto the cliff to wash away any debris left. That sounded an interesting sight and I wished I could be around to see it.

    Our final stop was Arrowtown which is a mock-up of a western town. The fronts of the shops had been built to carefully represent shops and buildings from a wild west town. It looked lovely and we spent an hour or so wandering around in the sunshine enjoying an ice cream.

    Arriving in Queenstown we found our bed for the night, Peppers Beacon. It was a very pleasant surprise, a 2-bedroom apartment overlooking the lake. Both bedrooms were en-suite, the kitchen had 2 dishwashers and full cooking facilities; opening a cupboard door we found a washing machine and tumble dryer. Very nice. The only downside is that they do not have free WiFi so I will have to wait to post this blog until I can get hooked up as I am not paying their prices. We have a little family of sparrows who have made a nest by the warm air vent next to our balcony. The parents seem to be gathering grubs and moths for their young and welcomed some crumbs and snips of chicken skin from our meal. A greedy blackbird was also nesting in a bush in front of our balcony – we are on the ground floor and he hoovered up any titbits left by the sparrows.
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  • Day 22

    To Doubtful Sound

    November 12, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Thursday 10th November
    We checked out of Peppers Beacon for one night as we are going on an overnight cruise along Doubtful Sound in a schooner. We are only allowed one small bag, as usual I took far too much and consequently my bag was very heavy - I do need to work on my travelling light method. The coach picked us up from outside the hotel, and from there it was a 3½ hour drive to the ferry which was to take us across Lake Manapouri. Another coach was waiting for us as we docked and drove us a further hour to the head of Doubtful Sound where we boarded our schooner. We had our own cabins on the upper deck which were surprisingly spacious with en-suite facilities. A lot of others were sharing quad cabins which sounded rather basic bunk bed facilities separated by curtains in the lower deck of the boat. The boat dropped anchor about 45minutes after we had set sail; there were various water based activities on offer. Peter decided to join the kayaking activity, about 24 in total went out. It looked very tiring as they kayaked around the Fiord. Janet and I preferred to join one of the smaller boats that went out to explore the surrounding flora and fauna. Once everyone was back on board there was the opportunity to go swimming in the Sound. The water is both fresh water and salt, the salt water being heavier sinks below the fresh which sits on top. It is also coloured a rich brown by all the tannins washed into the water from the surrounding mountains and trees. Quite a lot of people went in, some slipped in from the landing stage for the kayaks whilst some climbed a ladder and jumped from the first floor! Even the crew joined in, jumping and diving in. Everyone said it was very cold, but seemed to enjoy it as many went in for more.

    Soup and a roll was served afterwards at about 5pm, but I didn’t fancy any, it was too soon after lunch for me. The boat then sailed on the length of the Sound to a fur seal colony at the mouth. We moved to the front of the top deck to try to get a good view. It was really windy and cold, luckily we had zipped back to our cabins to put on an extra layer before venturing up there. A large rock rose from the sea and all over it basked seals, some pups were playing, chasing each other around on the rock watched by their mothers whilst the large bulls kept an eye on their cows to make sure they didn’t stray. Moving away from the seals the boat sailed towards the edge of the shore where some yellow eyed penguins were spotted. Onwards the boat continued into the open ocean, the Tasmin Sea where there are some of the roughest waters in the world. The crew said the waters were quite calm but to us as we pitched up and down, tossed in the waves, it seemed anything but. I should have taken Janet’s offer of one of her accustraps which she swears prevents seasickness. Everyone was alert, looking for whales, but alas once more they evaded us, no sign of them at all. Eventually our little boat turned its prow back towards calmer waters and we sailed from the turbulent sea into the relative calm of the Sound. Our fingers and noses were quite numb by now so we decided to go back inside. Dinner was a delicious buffet affair. After dinner there was an optional talk on New Zealand flora. The boat was at anchor and it was very peaceful outside. Janet and I walked around on the deck in the dark, it was amazing how many noises we could hear coming from the forests on shore. Many birds we could not identify as well as many other noises from unknown creatures. The stars twinkled in the sky above and I saw a shooting star and what I think was a satellite, either that or it was an alien, but I think the satellite is more likely. It was very peaceful and serene.
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