South Shetland Islands

The South Shetland Islands are a group of islands to the North West of the Antarctic peninsula. A more bleak and inhospitable place is hard to imagine. It is taken most of the day to reach these islands, the storm slowed the ship's expected progress. This tiny island rocky outcrop is Penguin Island barren and covered in rocks and snow. A monochrome landscape almost devoid of color making it very gloomy on a cloudy day.

Our journey to here was a little faster than expected enabling an earlier landing . Despite the earlier landing time, it's still very overcast making a zodiac ride not that appealing. We are the first group to go ashore, by the time we arrive there is light misty rain. The beach is covered in very large rocks, it's difficult to get out of the zodiac and on to the beach. Fortunately the naturalists helping us are young and strong and ensure I don't land in the water which would have made the excursion very unpleasant.

We are not allowed to walk on areas where there is vegetation, a very low growing moss. This takes a long time to grow and will be damaged if we walk on it. This confines us to an area of about two metres in from the shoreline. In order to get to a large colony of Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins, we must negotiate not just the rocks but also the large male fur seals on this island. There are no female seals and no young. It's a much scarier walk than we've done previously with seals, where the majority have been pups practicing their aggression. Now we see animals which are significantly larger and far more aggressive. At one point as I'm trying to ensure that I don't fall and trying to keep my hood on, I'm not paying attention and I hear an enormous growl which makes me jump back. It's a very large fur seal which I haven't seen behind a rock. It's a reminder of how careful you have to be around these creatures. The naturalists are doing their best to remind us to take care, not run, but to stop and point with a walking poles if needed, Even these large animals will back away.

The rain has now turned to light snow but at least there is no wind. On the beach is the carcass of a whale, a rib bone and vertebrae visible it gives us a picture of just how large whales are. We have the option of taking a walk to a colony of penguins or another walk further up the hill. No one takes the second option. It is just too challenging even for the fittest of the passengers. Just walking up one small incline covered in mud and rocks presents a serious challenge, it's slippery and steep our poles provide a third leg helping with balance. Our naturalists are ever present, watching and helping where needed.

The walk albeit challenging is worth it because we get close to a colony of Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins. The Chinstrap penguins look so cute with a white face and the obvious black marking from which their name derives they have quite pink feet, It is so hard to imagine anything living here, so cold and inhospitable. By the time we make it back to the zodiac we are quite wet. Because I have short legs getting back into a zodiac at the best of times is hard today it's really hard given the large boulders on which the zodiac rests. The challenge tonight will be to get our clothes dry enough to go out tomorrow morning, we leave at 7:00 a.m. but we will be back in time for breakfast.

There is a lecture on glaciers which is interesting as it focused on how they form. Very relevant given where we are. Hopefully we can now see and identify what is a glacier versus just a lot of snow or an iceberg. We have dinner with two naturalists one of whom is the glacier expert. It is always fun meeting the naturalists over dinner.Read more