Neko Harbour

It's hard to imagine a more spectacular and tranquil place. From our balcony in the foreground can be seen several rafts of Gentoo penguins heading out or coming back from feeding and in the background three humpback whales, slowly moving through the water, their backs visible in the sunlight. It's a spectacular day. The ship is at anchor in the harbour surrounded by the snowy ice capped mountains of the Antarctic peninsula, the sea is so still.

The day begins with our first opportunity to step on to the Antarctic peninsula. Some passengers just want to step on to the peninsula having less interest in the wildlife or the view. One person just wanted her photo taken standing on Antarctic snow. We've been reminded a few times that we will be standing on the 7th continent. One of the naturalists yesterday, however pointed out that the scientific definition for a continent is in fact so broad as to include South Georgia. I doubt this is what everyone has in mind. We discussed if maybe even Tasmania qualifies.

The beach where we landed was covered in small stones with sections more like gravel so it was an easy walk. There is a steeper walk up a very icy track for a better view, I managed to get part way up but it was so icy that even with the pole I don't feel particularly stable. Bob, of course walks to the top, I'm sure his pictures will be wonderful. We' are not allowed to walk very far along the beach because on either side of us are colonies of penguins making it impossible to keep 5 m away from them. There's a very strong focus on ensuring we do not disturb the wildlife unnecessarily.

The side of the hill running down to the beach has quite deep furrows from the top of the hill down. These are tracks made by penguins who trek to the top and then make their way down to the ocean where they'll gather together and swim out to feed. It's quite surprising how far up they will walk. These penguins have no chicks, the chicks have fledged and now left. Some penguins are still moulting. Because the day is so clear, it is so easy to spot the penguins going out to feed. Leaping or porpoising out of the water in a raft, they must be feeding quite deep in the ocean because it is sometime before they resurface. Watching them come back to shore they are faster. Obviously not looking for food.

Numerous humpback whales come to this harbour to feed, we can see them everywhere, this trip to date has been one of whale watching in particular humpback whales. There's an invitation to anyone on the beach who would like to get closer to the whales to go on the zodiac which will then take us back to the ship. A large flock of cormorants fly close to the beach, this is the first time I have seen so many. There are no Giant petrels or fur seals here, what we do see are Cormorants, some Storm petrels, Gentoo penguins and humpback whales.

The weather continues to be reasonably fine for our our next adventure. This time it is Danco Island, quite a way north on the Antarctic peninsula. The walk to the top of the hill is far more reasonable compared to this morning. The landing however was on rocks and this was probably the hardest part. The snow is relatively soft, although as we climb further snow that had been softer in the morning has now frozen and is ice, we really have to be careful. On the corners it is particularly treacherous because of the ice. Looking from the bottom to the top the view looks like red penguins skiing down the hill.

The team of naturalists have inserted flags to indicate the path we should take. As with this morning there are large deep ruts in the snow where the penguins have made a path down to the sea. Of course they are far more accomplished at walking on the ice than we are and are able to go straight down. I'm pleased that I'm able to make it not quite halfway to the top, Bob doesn't quite get to the top either. Apparently if we have managed it there was a beautiful view. What I saw was still spectacular. I had to be careful coming down and was grateful for the walking pole again.

The beach area where the penguins are is quite small, which means the only real walking we can do is on the snow to the top. It's funny looking at one of the photos I took what the picture seems to show is a group skiers in red ski jackets carefully skiing down the hill. The only difference is there are penguins nearby as they come down. I quite like stopping and just watching how they negotiate a relatively steep hill. Their legs are short but they have quite wide feet which seem to give them a lot of grip on the snow and ice. The only trouble they have here was at the end where the snow ends and the rocks of the beach begins. There is ice between the rocks.

On a small iceberg just offshore a group of penguins appear to be playing. They climb up on the iceberg and leap off into the sea and repeat the same thing. As a zodiac appears, however, they abandon that game and all leap into the water. It was quite funny to watch their antics.

It doesn't seem to matter what time day or night or where we are if there are whales around, they have everyone's full attention. After dinner I am in the main lounge, when whales are spotted. It's way too cold to go on the outside deck so I stay inside and look out one of the side windows. Five whales come to the surface at the same time. Just metres from the window. It's an extraordinary sight and not something anyone would be able to capture on camera but something I will never forget. The vision of those huge heads all coming out of the water at the same time so close.もっと詳しく