Montgomery reef & Freshwater cove

Tides in this area are quite extreme and that has influenced what we do. After visiting Lacepedes Island instead of going to the horizontal falls we went further north to explore other parts of the region. Had we gone to the falls earlier there would have been very little visible tidal movement and the point of going there is to see this geological phenomena. Timing our zodiac ride was also essential at Montgomery reef which is the world's largest inshore reef system and the tide can be up to 14 metres.

Montgomery reef is made primarily of guano so very little can grow here. On the zodiac ride we witness the tide changing and see the torrent of water that cascades off the reef as the tide goes out. The crew have managed the timing very well. As we approach we can see the effect of the tide with water now running off the reef like a waterfall. It is quite a sight and we see more and more channels emerging as the tide recedes. Wildlife on the reef is limited. It is hard to imagine what the birds find to eat. We see gray and white herons and egrets and in the water there are stingrays and turtles.

Our afternoon adventure is in complete contrast to the morning. Freshwater cove is an area renowned for indigenous rock paintings. These can't exactly be dated because they are regularly repainted but retaining the original image but in this area at least 8,000 years old. This is a little like what we might consider restoration work in churches and cathedrals. Only one person in a tribal group is provided with the knowledge and skill to undertake this task and this is to ensure continuity of the work.

On the beach we are greeted by two of the local Aboriginals whose land we are on. There is a welcome to country ceremony and each of us are dorbed with a little bit of ochre. When we leave we also have the option of a smoking ceremony. A fire is lit at one end of the beach and if we walk through the smoke, any spirits that may have attached to us during our visit will be removed.

There is a walk from the beach up to the cave where the drawings are. I want to see all the rock drawings I can on this trip because I think it will be a highlight. We have been warned that the walk will be challenging in places. I begin with good intentions but I don't get more than 25% into the walk before my heart starts racing and I'm finding myself falling behind. There is always a guide in front and behind and the guide at the back is concerned both that I am able to continue but also aware that we are falling well behind. I decide it is better to go back. Bob does go all the way and he said it had became even harder closer to the cave. Turning back I think was a good decision.

On the beach I join the group doing a shorter walk. There are pandanas growing near the beach and these indicate fresh water, which of course enabled a local tribe to live in this area. We are shown where freshwater is coming out from the rocks near the beach, there is a small pool of water and I watch as someone comes to collect water. I had intended to taste the water but that would have meant bending over and it wasn't going to be as easy as perhaps it looked. I had an opportunity to speak with the young Aboriginal woman who did the welcome to country ceremony, she talked to me about some of the paintings in the cave and what they meant. They depict the Wandjina spirit which is found only in the Kimberly.

I'm disappointed I can't do the full walk but it was a very pleasant afternoonLes mer