• Susan Smyth Lovberg
  • Susan Smyth Lovberg

Via Francigena

A 40-day adventure by Susan Read more
  • Stage 14: Bapaume to Péronne

    May 3, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    My knee is much better and I hope to be back on the road tomorrow. Yay!

    Note my accommodations: how efficient to put the shower in the kitchen. 🙂🙂🙂 It looks like I have the place to myself.

    Péronne is probably the most frequently destroyed city in Europe. Several times in the Middle Ages and Renaissance, and obliterated in WWI and WWII. Just about everything is less than 100 years old.

    At the Mairie a wonderful guide showed me the collection of local artifacts, most of them 2-3,000 years old.

    The Historial is a museum devoted to WWI.
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  • Stage 15: Péronne to Trefcon

    May 4, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    My knee is fine now. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 I walked 10+ miles to Trefcon with no pain. Just fatigue. It took five hours, which is kind of slow. Better slow than never.

    The path was through a lot of little woods and through farmland. I took a wrong turn in the farmland and had to cut across some fields. It’s not like in the movies……it’s difficult!

    Near Trefcon, in the woods, I came across an abandoned cemetery. Kind of spooky. Did not dawdle.

    Trefcon is very tiny and I made the mistake of assuming I could buy food here. I’ll figure it out with the help of the gîte owner.
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  • Stage 15c

    May 4, 2023 in France

    Anic Urier is a member of the Via Francigena FB group. It turns out she lives right across the street from my gîte. When she found out I was there she invited me over for a chat, laundry, dinner and (tomorrow) breakfast.

    I also finally got a photo of a bottle of colza oil. Colza is all those yellow fields.
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  • Stage 16: Trefcon to Saint-Quentin

    May 5, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    I had breakfast with Anic Urier, who had also invited me to dinner last night. I explained to her what a Camino Angel is, so she was pleased. I had arrived in Trefcon not knowing there was no food. My gîte was weird, too. The shower only had scalding water and the toilet didn’t flush. If I had known that I would have spent the night at Anic’s house, which was literally a 20 second walk from the gîte.

    Today’s walk went well……until my phone almost died after only three hours and the charger didn’t work ( I thought I charged it all night but maybe it wasn’t plugged in all the way?). I was pretty unnerved since I needed the GPS to find Saint-Quentin as well as the name and address of my hotel. At 3% I found my first bar and plugged it in. Very nice…..except for the drunk lady who kept stroking my raincoat and hat. 🤨 It was only 12:30! Sheesh!

    The walk included a few small woods but mostly it ran along farmland. Wheat, colza and newly planted beets.

    Lots of cemeteries. This region was devastated by WWI and WWII. The towns were pretty much razed by the fighting and rebuilt afterwards, so most everything is less than 100 years old. Red brick everywhere.

    The French war dead are grouped together in big cemeteries. The English, Germans, Canadians, Australians, etc., are in their own cemeteries where the battle took place. Each country takes care of its own cemetery, usually through local associations. I was told there is a lot of WWI tourism, as people want to see where Great-Grandpa fought and was buried. A lot of that, which explains all the tour pamphlets I see everywhere.

    The countryside is beautiful. Some of the villages are nice but the towns make tge countryside look even better.

    No sighseeing because I need to rest my legs for tomorrow and because it’s RAINING.
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  • Stage 17: Saint-Quentin to La Fère

    May 6, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    A lot went wrong today, but a lot went right.

    What went right: by using an alternate route I was able to shorten the distance thereby helping my bum knee. Also the countryside, friendly cows and villages were quite nice.

    What went wrong: no place to sit down without getting wet meant 7 1/2 hours straight of walking. Towards the end the GPS went crazy and had me scrambling under barbed wire fences, traipsing through thigh-high plants, slogging through ankle-deep marsh, and slipping/sliding/climbing/falling in stinging nettles. My legs are still stinging but at least the blood is gone. And I found dead bugs in my soggy shoes.
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  • Stage 18: La Fère to Laon

    May 7, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Rain rain rain rain rain rain rain rain

    Long day….. 8 1/2 hours with no breaks (rain!).

    It’s probably best that I didn’t know Laon was on a plateau.