• Dr Livingstone ?

    September 15, 2024 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    I left Kasane & Chobe in good spirits. The safari experience injected some excitement into my stop, and I'd been pretty comfortable in the Kwalape Lodge. Not super posh but spacious and easy with plenty of shade. The days on the bike are draining with the hot weather.
    The Kazangula bridge is a wonderful piece of engineering. It spans the waters where Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe meet. However it curves to avoid the latter due to a border dispute about the actual border line.
    I missed the sole opportunity to jump on the sidewalk on the approach thinking a second would appear before the bridge proper. No chance and after 1 squeezy truck event I hopped onto the concrete rail bed in the middle. It was a great sight looking East & West up the waterways.
    Immigration and customs proved simple each way and beyond the friendly border guards and officials it was a pretty quiet Zambia morning. Unfortunately the only ATM was broken so I was left with not a lot of Botswana notes until my stop at Livingstone.
    At the 50km mark I managed some street hustlg and bought drinks from a litttle shop bar, doing some forex as part of the purchase. The roads were narrower and much more unpleasant due to the high volume of trucks and the practice of overtaking each other using all of the road. This meant they'd drive at you flicking their lights and sounding the horn. I was continually pushed off the road. It was the same when being passed, very close passes almost regardless of opposing traffic. I nutted off at several drivers with one in particular lucky to avoid a lobbed water bottle.
    Eventually arriving in Livingstone I began the dance to get a new sim, some local currency and a feed without losing my shirt. Narrowly avoided that fate as the atms were all out of order. The money trade skimmed an extra $4. The sim dude lied through his teeth about data package costs trying for double charge, and shrugged after I checked whilst he was getting some change. And I'm not going to discuss the pizza which was up their with a spaghetti version made famous by Bill English.
    I headed off to the tent camp run by the local Cape to Cairo WhatsApp personality expecting a friendly face and hospitality. She was away guiding, and seemed hands off despite pumping the camp frequently. The lone guest I settled in ad was soon joined by a mid 30 ish Brit/SA couple who were overlandng in a 4x4 before settling in Nairobi in time for the new year. She would be returning and he was taking up a new position from his previous Vienna location, their original target which had become Nairobi. Athena and Alek were great company for a couple of days and I joined them heading out to Victoria Falls.
    By now I was aware of some stomach issues brewing from the previous day. It may not have been the pizza, but !
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