Malawi

A little more bank business to try and clear up the ATM withdrawals that failed but we're showing on my statement. You'll be fine said the kindly manager, who by now was used to my visits. We'll see how that turns out.
I stocked up on water and changed the cash from Zambian Kwacha to the less valuable Malawian Kwacha using the assistance of the nearby exchange bureau, and their contact who was recommended as honest. The swarming touts around the border were left disappointed.
The 20km journey from Chipata hauled up 250m but the road was good. Through the multiple police stops without issue. Then onto the 3 year old combined border post, a one stop border post (OSBP). New sim, no option but touts for that, cold drink and off towards Lilongwe the Malawian capital. The gentle downhill impeded by moderate headwinds. An enduring experience over the following days. At 30km in I stopped for a drink and picked the most commonly used guesthouse, in line with recommendations from a local storekeeper. It had been 10 years since I'd encountered the urban pit toilets which accompany the bottom end lodging. I'd spend the next few days avoiding them.
I walked through the town market as night descended, avoiding the freshly butchered pork offerings sizzling on the outdoor fry tops.
I acquired a young shadow as well. With a lower standard of living street begging is becoming more prevalent. My shadow was disappointed to receive only a tomato from the several I'd bought as a dinner item.Читать далее