Jim Fotter
I recently retired from a 42-year career in public education and public union work. I have been with my husband for 28 years, and we have two adult children and two grandchildren. We are active in the GLBTQ+ community. Læs mere🇺🇸Portland
    • CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 2

      19. juni 2022, Irland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      I think that I had the best night's sleep since we've been on the road. The night was cool and comfortable, and we were ready to try exploring County Laois.

      Once again, I am grateful for Jim's skilled driving as he navigated driving on the "wrong" side of the road on country roads that were often only about one and a half car lanes in width.

      It's amazing to be in the country of my mother's lineage and to see what it is like, to think about life there and to experience a new sense of identity. I love the blend of the old with the new, and I don't think I've seen so many shades of green in one place.

      Our first stop was the Rock of Dunamase, the ruins of Celtic Castle where you can still see the majesty of the fortification overlooking the beautiful countryside.

      We then went to check out the Slieve Bloom mountain range which are more like the hills of New England. The evergreen trees were dense and beautiful. We considered taking a trail to a high point, but upon further examination it didn't seem practical to try and walk over the soggy peat.

      We traveled to the parish of Coolrain, and I thought that we had found the church where one of my great grandmothers was baptized, but it was an Anglican Church. I think we know the actual place to go after consulting with my second cousin Kate and we're going to give it another go tomorrow.

      We drove in and by towns that were names in my family tree without much of a context. The opportunity to see these places in person is magical for me. I'm really finding it to be very grounding.

      We ended the night with a great dinner hosted by Eamon and Markie. They made a traditional of bacon (think pork roast), cabbage and potatoes. It was really wonderful, and we enjoyed our conversation.

      It's been a great launch, and we're excited about our next adventure.
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    • CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 1

      18. juni 2022, Irland ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

      Today was a travel day as we prepared for our flight to Ireland. We heard many horror stories through local acquaintances and new reports that there were numerous flight cancellations and significant staffing shortages at Schipol.

      As we approached the first terminals of the airport, we noticed huge lines outside the airport, and we learned that was just to get in. Our Uber driver remarked, you're in Terminal 3. You're relatively likely. They will be in lines over six hours.

      Schipol is a massive international hub. When we arrived at our terminal there wasn't one sign directing us to our ticket counter. We finally asked a security person who told us where to go, and we learned that we'd have a 90-minute wait before the Air Lingus ticket agents would arrive.

      We finally dropped off our baggage and then we had another two hours of lines to get through security.

      We never worried a great deal about missing our flight as we were in the front of the queue, and we figured that the flight would have no passengers if they didn't wait.

      We did finally take off about an hour late for the hour and twenty minutes flight to Dublin. The flight was relatively smooth and we made it through passport checks without a problem.

      We picked up our rental car and prepared for the drive to our B&B in Ballintubbert. I have been very excited about this leg of the trip as we are first heading to County Laois (leesh), the region where my maternal grandmother's family are from.

      We were welcomed by Markie and Eamon who showed us around their home, a restored old store. They were very welcoming and they invited us to join them for a BBQ. I do believe that Markie grilled enough meat for 16 guests. It was quite the welcome, and they were helpful about suggestions in the county.

      It really was a wonderful first night, and we are excited about our Ireland adventure.

      Oíche mhaith (good night)
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    • VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 10

      17. juni 2022, Holland ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      I woke up this morning with cold symptoms that doubled down a bit from yesterday. We already planned a low-key day. After going out for coffee, we returned to the boat and I slept for several hours.

      Yesterday, I talked briefly about the recently graduated student. He is very enamored with the Oregon Trail. He noticed Pete the Cat, and I explained to him about this storybook character and the photos we send to our granddaughter. Ben is a graphic artist, and he felt inspired to send me an image with Pete at the reins of a Conestoga Wagon as a gift to Olive. 💞

      I woke up feeling significantly better. We enjoyed our immersion into canal life with no agenda. We heard the excited shouts of children in a nearby schoolyard. We watched young folks gather at a dock along the canal. We watched young boys jump off the foot drawbridge, and we waved to those riding by in their boats.

      The experience causes me to recall a myriad of summer adventures near the water with friends and family when I was young.

      I remember sunburns on top of sunburns and my mother slathering me with Noxema.

      I think about staying in cottages in Connecticut, Rhode Island and Cape Cod. I remember picking blueberries in Truro when I was 6. I remember the merry-go-round at Watch Hill. I remember being the only one in the family to go in the ocean at Sand Beach in Bar Harbor, and being covered with blankets when my lips turned blue. I loved bodysurfing and playing with pinball machines at the beach arcade in Misquamicut.

      I remember responding to the dare of friends to join then in jumping off a small cliff into Lake Erie. I think of times with high school friends at the Flaming Gorge in Wyoming.

      What I saw today were people enjoying the promise and gift of summer. I know that being next to some body of water in the summer provides solace.

      Another day of just being present was the perfect prescription for the day.

      Thank you, Amsterdam. Next stop: Ireland.
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    • VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 9

      16. juni 2022, Holland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Today was a kick-back and watch the world go by day. We enjoyed time on the houseboat deck, and we had a great take-out Mediterranean meal on the deck.

      We have used our return to Amsterdam as some grounding time before our next chapter in Ireland.

      It was a beautiful sunny day. We met Ben, a young man who has just finished film school. He was very excited to learn that we were from Oregon. He has been enamored with the Oregon Trail since he was young. So we shared the stories that we knew with him.

      It's nice to be relieved of the pressure of "doing all the things", and that down time as part of vacation is about balance.
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    • Cinq Fotos-Paris Day 4

      15. juni 2022, Holland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      I see dead people.

      More accurately, today we visited the resting places of a number of famous people in the largest greenspace in the city.

      Before we left the flat, we enjoyed an apricot cake that Stephan made for breakfast. Last night they recommended some options for our last day in Paris. We decided to explore the Cimitèrie du Père-Lachaise.

      When we arrived at the cemetery the multitude of above-ground vaults reminded me of the cemeteries outside of New Orleans with the exception of all the trees and hills here. Famous artists, authors, composers, politicians and others are found here. There are memorials to those lost in the Holocaust. There are tributes to resistance fighters. And there are whimsical and unusual sculptures throughout.

      The chapels and monuments are quite elaborate. I'm reminded of the ways that some societies play tribute to the dead. I have always found a walk in the cemetery to be calming, and I admire the inscriptions and tributes.

      There were some gravesites that I wanted to visit. The first site was the Irish poet and playwright Oscar Wilde. While I have not read any of his works in depth, I have appreciated his quick-witted tongue and I'm drawn to his tortured story for being a man who loved other men. Wilde was imprisoned for two years in England for homosexual acts, and when he was released, he moved to France and never returned. The time in prison left him in poor health, and he died at the age of 46. The inscription on his memorial is from one his last poems:

      "And alien tears will fill for him
      Pity's long-broken urn,
      For his mourners will be outcast men,
      And outcasts always mourn"

      We also visited the gravesite of Jim Morrison. Like too many musicians of his era (Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix), he died very young. I was 9 years old when his song "Light My Fire" was released. I remember thinking the song was dumb at the time. I rediscovered Jim Morrison when I was in grad school. I liked his haunting baritone voice and I was intrigued by many of the lyrics and mood changes.

      A celebrity buried here that I knew less about was Colette, who was an actor and writer. I was reminded when we went to Moulin Rouge that she almost caused the venue to be shut down when she gave a long kiss onstage to another woman in 1907. She is known for her books, most notably a novella that was adapted for the movie Gigi.

      We also witnessed Anerican novelist Gertrude Stein's grave who is buried next to her long-time partner Alice B Toklas. I admire them as those who came before us who demonstrated living authentic lives. "A rose is a rose is a rose "

      Rather than continuing with a name-dropping list of famous dead people I have walked by, I want to offer this reflection:

      I think most of us want to be remembered.
      Did we love?
      Were we loved?
      Did we make any contribution that mattered without needing to be famous?
      Will people still talk about us when we're gone?

      I cited a few of the individuals surrounded by a cast of deceases celebrities more to illustrate that everyone has a story. If we pay attention, we can learn their stories while they are living. We can let them know that they matter and not wait to build a moss-gathering monument after they're gone.

      One of the best parts of this trip is taking time to learn the stories of others we have met in our lodging or other chance meetings. It's a great lesson to bring home, and it was a gift that this cemetery walk brought to me today.

      Au revoir and merci, Paris. It was fun. And we're back up to Amsterdam for a few days. We're wishing everyone a good night from our floating home.
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    • CINQ FOTOS- Day 3 Paris

      14. juni 2022, Frankrig ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      We started the day with another wonderful breakfast prepared by our hosts. The feature pastry was a clafoutis, a rich cherry cake.

      When we booked our travels to Paris, it was a bit of an afterthought. We realized that the proximity by fast train from Amsterdam made an easy trip. We also knew that it would be impossible to select too many attractions in such a large city with so much to do.

      Our learning in two months on the road is that some of the most priceless adventures have been to just wander and explore. This was one of those days as we had the opportunity to meet the mother and her husband of one of our good friends back home, Judith and her husband Chris and our friend Khoa later in the day.

      Judith proposed that we meet in Place du Trocadero, a plaza and gardens with spectacular views of the Eiffel Tower. After a warm greeting, we enjoyed our walk near the tower and the adjacent greenspace. Judith told us about the different neighborhoods that we were ealking through. We had a leisurely lunch at a classic French restaurant, and we enjoyed our conversation. After our farewells, we returned to the flat, and I took a very long nap. I had been up late after Moulin Rouge realizing that too much Coke Zero at dinner meant Sleep Zero due to excess caffeine consumption.

      Our friend, Khoa, who we've known for about ten years offered to meet us for drinks and dinner. It was fun to visit with him to catch up as we last hosted him in our home in 2018.

      The restaurant was also a traditional French Restaurant, and I enjoyed the lamb. While Jim C enjoyed the baked Camenbert cheese with fries. As we were leaving the restaurant, we met Khoa's partner and exchanged greetings.

      We decided to skip the metro and make the two-mile walk home on a beautiful Parisian night. The temperature was perfect, and we enjoyed the walk. It looks like Paris is going to heat up to about 38°C this weekend, and I'm glad to miss it as I really don't like the heat.

      When we returned to the flat, our hosts Stephan and Stéphane were still awake. We had a great conversation about politics in our respective countries, while sampling their offerings of home-made apertífs.

      I think some of the best parts of our trip have been sharing times with the new people we've met as well as enjoying adventures with friends and family.

      We will have a bit more time in Paris tomorrow before we return to Amsterdam. It's been a wonderful visit. Ciao!
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    • CINQ FOTOS-Paris Day 2

      13. juni 2022, Frankrig ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      We woke up this morning to a generous breakfast made by our hosts to start the day.
      I managed to sleep in a bit, and I'm grateful for the rest before an eventful day.

      First on the agenda this morning was a trip to the Louvre Museum. Our hosts sent us tram connection routes, and it was a crowded, but easy ride over.

      The tram stop was very close to the Louvre, and we walked over to get in line. Although we had a timed entrance, getting into the Louvre still required a fairly long wait before getting into the museum.

      It was interesting to see additional Greek antiquities and compare them to our travels in Sicily and the Museo Archaelogico in Naples.

      We decided to explore the Islamic exhibit, and it was really quite beautiful. I admittedly hold some deep prejudices about some Islamic countries, particularly as it applies to horrible treatment of women and GLBT people. The exhibits were beautiful, particularly the pottery.
      Jim C offered a poignant reflection that it was a missed opportunity to create displays of artwork on a time continuum rather than socio-political divides. I'd further offer the thought that the creation of art in all forms is an opportunity to demonstrate commonality rather than differences.

      We did see all the popular attractions at the Louvre. The Venus de Milo was incredible, abs I enjoyed getting close to the Mona Lisa. It's smaller than I expected, but I still thought it was cool to see it in person.

      In some of the Biblical portrayals, I find it interesting, and a little creepy, that there is "spoiler alert" foreshadowing of the crucifixion of Christ. One such portrayal is of Jesus and John the Baptist playing together as toddlers under the watchful eye of Mary. John is holding a small crucifix in the painting.

      Once we witnessed some of the popular pieces, we talked about how downplayed the fact that the Louvre was once a significant palace. This contrasted our experience at the Hague where both Escher's artwork and the palace were acknowledged and celebrated.

      When we left the museum, we walked near the adjacent garden with several sculptures. There were also a couple of small reservoirs with chairs and reclining chairs around the perimeter. It was a beautiful day, and many took the opportunity to bask in the sun and chat.

      When we left the museum and gardens we looked for a place to grab lunch. We found a great outdoor café and we split a dish of croque monsieur, a ham and cheese grilled sandwich that was grilled and smothered with gruyere cheese. It was quite rich and tasty with a glass of Chardonnay.

      After lunch we went to the Opera House which inspired the writing of the "Phantom of the Opera". The hall was beautiful and ornate. We thought how fun it would be to see a performance in the Hall like we did in Barcelona's Palau de Música nearly twomonths earlier.

      We returned to our flat and we enjoyed sums relaxation time. We made plans to go to dinner at a restaurant close to Moulin Rouge, at the recommendation of our hosts. We had the added bonus of joining a couple we met online, and we were reminded of our "small world" as we have many friends in common in New England and the Pacific NW.

      We wrapped the evening with a very late-night performance at the Moulin Rouge, a performance hall dating back to the late 1800's that has witnessed performances from the likes of Edith Piaf, and Collette, a performer who almost caused Moulin Rouge to be closed when she gave a lengthy kiss to one of the other female performers.

      We were seated next to a couple from New York who had recently married and were on their honeymoon. We enjoyed our conversation with them, and we compared some of our favorite European experiences.

      It was noticeable that the women performed with very little clothing and the men, in contrast were fully clothed. Similarly, the women often made many sexual gestures, and the men's dancing was a bit sterile in comparison. There were some unusual circus type acts including a woman who swam in a water tank with pythons, as well as amazing balancing acts by men. A big hit with the audience was a couple who did amazing choreographed maneuvers on roller skates. The show concluded with a rousing performance of the Can Can

      We made the most of our first full day in Paris, and we look forward to time with friends tomorrow.
      Bonne nuit, amis et famille!
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    • CINQ FOTOS-Paris Day 1

      12. juni 2022, Frankrig ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      We bid a temporary farewell to Amsterdam as we will return later this week. We had an easy fast train trip to Paris, and we passed through a few major cities in Belgium on the way. With the exception of the cities, we mostly appeared to travel through farmland. We arrived in Paris a little before 3 pm, and we made our way to the room that we are renting.

      I do think this is one of the nicest weather days that we've had since we left Portland in April. It was dry and sunny with a slight breeze.

      We were greeted by Stephan and Stephane, two very sweet men who welcomed us with hibiscus tea and a fruit galette. They live on a spacious 5th floor flat, and we have a very nice guest room. They gave us many recommendations of walks to take, and we enjoyed learning about the highlights of the city through their eyes.

      I shared with them that my actual surname should have been Fortin. Although, I have very deep French-Canadian roots, we located the areas where my French ancestors lived not too far outside of Paris.

      We decided to head on a walk near a canal towards the gay district. As we crossed the River Seine we caught our first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower an impressive figure in the distance and the visual reality check that we were really in Paris and not Las Vegas.

      We stopped by the gay district for a drink and then we strolled the streets in the area without a set destination. We did find Notre Dame which is still closed and under reconstruction after the devastating 2019 fire. The construction site has very detailed panels about the efforts to rebuild and replicate what was lost.

      We ended the evening with dinner at TaTa Hamburgers, and I had probably the best hamburger that I've had since time in the states.

      We retired for the night, and we look forward to our first full day tomorrow.

      Bonne Nuit!
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    • VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 8

      11. juni 2022, Holland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Today was a pretty quiet day as we started making preparations for our travels to Paris tomorrow morning.

      I thought this might be a good time to share overall impressions of the city. First, the canals really do add to the charm of the city. We love the canal house facades, and the quirky use of space.

      I won't miss the ching-ching sounds of bicycles or the tell-tale rattle from behind that a bike is approaching. I have found the bicycle bells annoying even though I like the concept of less cars. Jim C and I both observed that the least consideration is for pedestrians. Crosswalks without a controlled walk/ don't walk light mean nothing. One must remain ever vigilant about not colliding with someone on a bike.

      We did take a brief stroll through the red light district. It felt a lot like a walk on Bourbon Street in New Orleans. I recognize that I need to keep my judgment in check, but other than the novelty of this historical area, I wondered about the quality of life for the sex workers. It does appear that laws provide some protections for them.

      I liked the social aspect of the kaffee houses. It's interesting how the laws work where you can legally smoke in the cafes, but it's technically illegal to smoke on the street. It's clear from the frequent whiffs of smoke that many ignore the rule.

      I will not miss steep narrow spiral staircases which are understandably ubiquitous in the city. Our flat was essentially in attic space. We got used to navigating the steps over time although I had the extra challenge of ducking to avoid concussions with low beams and ceilings.

      The food and service were all great. We found all service workers to be friendly and helpful. We loved the outdoor café atmosphere. We enjoyed different flavor variations of Dutch cheese, and the opportunity to sample local and Belgian beers.

      When we learned more about the stories of Jews who lived in Amsterdam and the number who perished in the Holocaust, I was reminded of a book that I read when I was about eight years old: "The Winged Watchman". It was a fictional children's story about the Nazi occupation of The Netherlands, a family who were part the resistance fighters and the dynamics of other neighbors who were Nazi sympathizers. It was a very challenging topic, and I remember asking my parents many questions about the Nazis and treatment of the Jews. I'm grateful that I wasn't sheltered from these stories. The question I had as a child remains: How could anything like the Holocaust happen?

      Jim C and I compared our impressions of the week at a local Soul Food Café for dinner. We ended the night with a very late visit to a dance club. The atmosphere was charged and the music was WAY TOO LOUD. It was still a fun way to end the week.

      Amsterdam is a city of contrast. It's a playground for the young, and a somber reminder to those who pause to reflect upon the unfathomable devastation during WWII.

      We will be back for a few more days next week with the opportunity to sleep on a boat.

      Be well,
      Jim
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    • VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 7

      10. juni 2022, Holland ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      After a late-night out, we enjoyed sleeping in. With the weather forecast improving as the day progressed we opted to check out a few of Amsterdam's parks.

      On the way we stopped by the Westerkerk, the Dutch Reform Church where Rembrsndt was buried. Rembrandt died a pauper, and eventually his remains were removed and destroyed which was customary for the treatment of the poor.

      We noticed the memorial plaque as well as the magnificent organ with biblical stories painted on adjacent panels.

      After leaving the church we took a tram to Rembrandt Park. It was nice to be in green space. Our guide the other day remarked that Amsterdam needed extra intentionality to create parks given its below sea level elevation. It was fun to walk by the petting zoo and a rather bizarre green ceramic statue. We tried looking it up, and we still don't have a good sense about it. It appeared to be vandalized, and we found a reference that the city created a rule for the commission of this work that if it was vandalized that the ceramic will be replaced by bronze as a tangible sign of vandalism and transformation.

      Before we traveled to the next park, we enjoyed lunch by a canal. It was fun to watch the people, particularly children accompanied by their parents as they left school by bike or walking. The equivalent of the Good Humor Man was strategically parked with his ice cream cart joined by a long line of children ready to sample his wares. It reminded me of living in Connecticut when I was young and getting ice cream after swimming lessons.

      Vondel Park was very pretty with a great rose garden. The park is named after a Dutch playwright and poet.

      As we made our way back to the flat, I stopped at La Tertulia, a kaffee shop that my son recommended, to purchase another space cake. I do admit that I have missed the opportunity to sample cannabis edibles. They were labeled in a range from beginner to advanced plus. I chose the latter, and I have sampled about half of a peanut butter space cake. If I remember, I'll let you know how that goes. 😏

      We ended the evening with a traditional Indonesian Rice Table (Rijtstaffel) meal. Rijstaffel is not actually an Indonesian meal. Instead, it days back to the period of Dutch colonization over what is now Indonesia (1602-1942), when the Dutch East India Company traded in the natural resources of the Spice Islands.

      The eighteen dishes were all colors of the rainbow and arranged from mild to spicy. We enjoyed the choices, and we finished the meal with mango ice cream garnished with lingon berries and accompanied by spice cake.

      It was another fun day in Amsterdam. We are grateful for our time here.
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