• Brian Ferris
  • Brian Ferris

Knoydart August 2025

A short but fine adventure by Brian Read more
  • Trip start
    August 9, 2025

    A long walk for a pint

    Aug 9–10 in Scotland

    For reasons that now escape me, I decided that one thing I absolutely must do is walk from Kinloch Hourn, in Inverness, to Inverie.
    Kinloch Hourn, a hamlet with a population of 4 or 5 at most, lies at the end of a 23 mile long dead end singletrack road. Inverie, population 104 on a good day, is 16 miles away along a very rough, and often barely discernible, footpath, and has the distinction of being the most remote village in mainland Britain, as it is only reachable by sea from Mallaig or on foot over a mountain pass. It's in an area called Knoydart which is one of the wettest places in Britain with an annual rainfall of 150 inches (3810mm.)

    So this is me, having paid a taxi driver an eye watering amount of money to drop me off in the middle of nowhere in pouring rain and a strong wind. The large orange bag in the boot of the car is the waterproof cover from my rucksack, which blew off the following day as I was crossing a mountain pass, although I didn't realise that until I reached my destination.
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  • Barrisdale bay

    August 9 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    After slogging up hill and down, and fording three rivers which, helpfully, were in full spate, I finally arrived at Barrisdale Bay, five hours after setting off, to spend the night at a bothy which, miraculously, had not only running water but electricity and a toilet. Most bothies are just four walls and a roof. There were six other hikers there that night, very convivial company, including a youngster who had hiked 18 miles that day, which took him nine hours.Read more

  • Climbing the bealach

    August 10 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Leaving the bothy the next morning, I have a 1500 feet climb up the track (bealach in Gaelic) to the pass at Mam Barrisdale, the notch in the hills in the distance. It had stopped raining.

  • Mam Barrisdale

    August 10 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    This is the view from the top of the pass. (Mam Barrisdale) The tiny bit of blue which you can see in the far distance is Loch Nevis, (the loch of heaven, in some translations) my eventual destination.Read more

  • Glen an dubh lochain

    August 10 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Although I was now going downhill, the path on this side was, if anything, even worse than coming up. Very rocky, slippery and boggy, there was a lot of water coming down the hillside which, when it found the track, decided to adopt it as a watercourse. At one point there was a footbridge completely missing, which entailed scrambling through yet another river, fortunately not quite as bad as yesterday as it had not rained heavily overnight. This is Glen an Dubh Lochain (the glen of the black loch.)Read more

  • Fortunately, the pub was open

    August 10 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    And, eventually, after another five-hour walk, I arrived at Inverie, for the compulsory pint at the Old Forge, the most remote pub in mainland Britain. Then the ferry to Mallaig, train to Fort William and a long hot shower. In accordance with the finest bothy tradition, I was still wearing yesterday's clothes and had a distinctly ripe aroma.Read more

    Trip end
    August 10, 2025