Argentina Antarctica & Chile

November 2017 - January 2018
A 36-day adventure by Bev Read more
  • 31footprints
  • 4countries
  • 36days
  • 138photos
  • 0videos
  • 22.1kkilometers
  • 15.3kkilometers
  • Day 11

    Abandoned Station

    December 10, 2017 in Antarctica ⋅ 🌫 1 °C

    Today we will head to Brown station where there will be a landing and kayak trip. The zodiacs take us to the station where we jump on the kayaks. Todays paddle is only about an hour through more ice flows. It is snowing the snow flakes are fluttering down all over us. It was quite magical. We arrived in a bay once again surrounded by glaciers. Another 5 minute silence break.

    Back on board light lunch was served on deck 5 while the snow continued. An interesting venue for lunch.

    The afternoon was spent cruising looking for whales. Anchored at Willamena Bay we had a cocktail party with crepe suzette. Everyone was dancing and one eye on whales. We did see 1 humpback.

    The weather has started to get a little colder and windier. Dinner was served st 730 then a small group ended on the bar dancing until midnight. Then a quick trip to the hot tub under the midnight sun and snow.
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  • Day 12

    Antarctic Chills

    December 11, 2017 in Antarctica ⋅ 🌬 0 °C

    Well I now know I'm in Antarctica we woke to snow wind and a temperature of -4. To say it was cold was and understatement.
    The first landing at Goyrdin Island was abandoned, the wind was just too strong to make safe landings.

    So we travelled onto Brown Bluff to see if it was possible to land. It is freezing outside the boarding party scouts the area and decides it is safe to land. We are warned - we will get wet, it is windy and very cold. Rugged up in our expedition gear we head to the Zodiac. Right on queue the sea spray makes us all wet. The beach is rocky with very little snow. It is very rugged high cliffs.

    The sea has ice bergs and sheets close to shore. Today the main penquins here are Adelie. The wind is nearly blowing me off my feet so I find shelter behind a large rock where I can watch the penquins. They are much more lively here swimming in and out of the water. Jumping from water onto the ice shelfs. Really cute and funny to observe.

    We are meant to do the Polar Plunge tonight but as the weather is still windy the boat tries to find a suitable spot.

    While cruising we see a huge ice berg 2.5 ks long 930 meters wide 30 meters high another 100 meters below. Total 383 billion liters.
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  • Day 13

    Polar Plunges

    December 12, 2017 in Antarctica ⋅ 🌬 1 °C

    Todays the day we will try to do our polar plunge. First stop was at the Polish Station this is manned and is mainly used for researching the effect of krill and penquin numbers. Unfortunately it is too rough for kayaking again.
    On the Zodiac's we are warned we may get wet it didnt take a minute until we were all sprayed. Thank goodness for our waterproof expedition gear.

    The island has gentoo penquins and elephant seals. There is a family of seals all piled on top of each other trying to keep warm. The juveniles are jostling for position. This was originally a whaling station - scattered all over the island were various whale bones just left where they were slaughtered.
    This was the last landing on the continent.

    Back on board heading for another landing on the South Shetland Islands. While cruising I get a text from Telstra welcoming me to Uruguay - I believe there is a station nearby. I even get a couple of messages from home.

    It is very windy and a strong current. The captain decides to change route to head to Half Moon Island. What a beautiful setting, the sun is out the sky is clear, although the wind is blowing.

    Time for the polar plunge - Erin and I are at the front of the queue. We have arranged with Jan , the boat manager, for AB and Callee to also do the plunge. Its ABs birthday and Callee last trip. For the plunge a rope is tied around your waist there is also a safety zodiac. Off the end of the boat you jump off a Zodiac into the sea. It is -1.8 degrees centigrade. Omg it is cold but only last a short time. All up 51 people do the plunge.

    Once again it is too windy to kayak such a pity as this is our last opportunity. So as an alternative most kayakers wear the dry suit to land we will plunge again at the island. Our last landing is just beautiful the chinstrap penquins are very cute.

    We all gather before heading back to the ship to run into the ocean to test out the dry suits. We stay dry but it is a cold trip back to the boat.

    Tonight is party night for ABs birthday then time to jump into the hot tub to watch the sun come up. We even got tp watch some whales under the new sun
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  • Day 15

    Drakes Crossing

    December 14, 2017, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 1 °C

    We are now leaving Antartica, crossing Drakes back to Argentina. The weather looks good with seas about 5 meters. Someone forgot to tell the waves and wind. The ship started with rising high on the waves and then crashing down with monotonous regularity - about every 20 seconds. The sound in the cabin was horrendous. The boat shook with every crash. Then the wind decided to chime in so now as well as crashing forwarc and back we were rolling from side to side.

    Jan made the comment at dinner that the wind had tied down and so it seemed until about midnight. The wind came back with vengence I needed to hang pn in bed so not to roll out. We had glasses crashing things falling to the floor. It was quite a night.

    At breakfast , those that made it, everyone was hanging on from chair to chair to keep them upright.
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  • Day 16

    The next Adventure

    December 15, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Its as early wake up today to the sounds of "Somewhere over the Rainbow". An early breakfast , Internet, some quick good byes to new friends. Lots of hugs from all the staff before catching the bus to the airport.

    We have wifi , all conversation stops while we all catch up on facebook, and emails from home.

    Ushuaia is a duty free town - as my ipad decided to stop working it was a good opportunity to purchase a new one. At least now i can do my posts and continue to manage my photos. It's scary how much we miss our technology tools.

    The flight for El Calafate leaves on time. On arrival we catch the bus to our accomodation on the other side of town.

    Time to catch up on blogs and pictures before venturing into town for an early dinner. We had dinner in a nice library bar watching the world go by. Once again I was given the same lesson I've Learnt many times - don't order lots of dishes, we ordered 4 dishes , 2 of which were sides and could only finish 2 dishes. cost us a fortune and returned 2 full plates. I love the wine pours - nothing like home all full close to brim here. This is very pretty arty looking town.
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  • Day 17

    El Chalten

    December 16, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today we woke in El Calafate but will fall asleep in EL Chalten.

    After a late breakfast we wandered around the outskirts of town. It is lovely to see the homes painted on such vivid colours - green, red, purple etc. The roofs are steeply sloped and most gardens have beautiful flowers imcluding lots of lavender which i brush against constantly.

    At midday we are picked up and transported to the bus station via going all over town picking up others. We reach our 2 storey bus- very comfortable, only about 1/2 full so we spread out.

    What a magnificent view - this first hour is snow capped mountains with vivid green glacial lakes. Then onto the desert tundra with rock covered mountains. I feel im in cowboy country waiting for them to come riding over the ridge.

    The road is well maintained with very little traffic. We travelled the famous Ruta 40.

    Half way we stop at La Leona for a break it must be close to Butch Cassidy and Sundance territory as there are wanted posters on the walls. I totally forgot they were outlaws in this part of the world. Hmm slightly confused as to why these would be here as they only got to Bolivia, but hey I'll go with it.

    Onward to El Chalten tundra and snow covered mountains for the rest of the trip. 3 hours in total, very comfortable and would recommend this form of travel.

    We arrive in El Chalten right on time at 4pm a short walk and we arrive at our hostel. It is pretty basic but we have our own bathroom and it is close to town.

    In most small towns the toilets do not flush correctly so you must put toilet paper in bin not flush - I continually forget. Bad me.

    A walk around town finds lots of bars and camping shops. Not sure what the main pastime here is certainly a toss up between drinking and hiking. Happy hours are between 4 &7 and again 10 & 12. 2 GTs for 120 peso approx $9 - we will take that.

    Back to the hostel with wine and cheese to finish the night off.
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  • Day 18

    Wind, little rain and definitely snow.

    December 17, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 1 °C

    The plan was do to a short hike today but on waking to -1 and the wind already blowing a galas we abandoned these plans. Instead decided to wander the town. The wether got worse, the wind stronger and the mountains are covered in cloud and snow.

    I decide to get me nails done, well that was an experience- no knowledge of shallac so I leave the nails on and just get to painted that had fallen off ( choice of 6 colours lol). Toenails next - they break a pair of clippers on them, so it just a manicure and scrub. I would rate this experience about the same in most Asian countries- not good.
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  • Day 19

    El Chalten Hiking

    December 18, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Today we decided to head to the mountains. First stop is to rent gear 2 sleeping bags and mats and 1 2 man tent. The tent is much heavier and larger than expected this is not going to be fun. We head off around 11 after stopping for a coffee hit.

    The start of the trek is at the end of the town, the up we go. The first 4ks is to Lake Capri, this took about 2 hours. Absolutely stunning scenery, the sun is shining it is a glorious day. I am pleased with me effort so far as I am not as fit as a I should be and have not hiked all year. Mel carried the tent this far now it is my turn. I manage to attach it to my day back, but now I stick out both sides and are severely lop sided.

    The next 4K to Poincinot is relatively flat but quite exposed. The wind is howling around us and more than once it pushed me sideways. There are many small bridges to cross and I'm sure the wind is waiting for me to cross these as several times I need to stop and hang on fearing I would be blown into the small streams.

    We make the camp site in about an hour. The tent was relatively easy to put up under the shelter of the trees. We were both quite tired so a lay down was in order. I was absolutely frozen the cold was coming up through the ground it froze me solid. I should have got up but was so scared of getting cold again I did not move until the next morning. Mel got up to take both sunset and sunrise pictures.

    The wind was howling around ist sounded like a thunderstorm but the camp was situated in such a way that it was protected form the wind. I only slept for a couple of hours and remember waking in the dead of the night. It was is dark starring at my hand trying to make it focus was impossible - all I saw was blackness.
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  • Day 20

    Coming back down

    December 19, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Mel came back from the sunrise shoot around 7 telling me it was starting to rain. Straight into action we were bringing down the tent to get on our way. Into our wet gear and we were off. It was not going to be the best day today, many hikers were coming up I doubt they will see the mountain today.

    Off we went, physiologically it is so much easier heading home, I had land marks I could tick off as we went. The wind had reduced but the rain in your face didn't help. The mountains were in total cloud was we left for home. It was a slow trek for me, luckily Mel took the tent off me for the last 4K as it would have been near impossible to traverse the downhill with the additional weight. We walked our own race down taking whatever time we needed.

    I was quite slow stopping to take some pictures and watch the occasional wood pecker along the way. It took me about 2.5 hours to get back to town. I am pleased that I may not be as unfit as I feel. But I know I need to get my fitness back to 2018 for sure.

    First stop in town was my favourite coffee house where now I am well known. The lady speaks no english and me no Spanish but we manage. Even when I cannot into the belt on my pants- I have to ask her assistance to unto me. Was a laugh. A couple of coffee and a nice cake on the house spurred me onto the hostel.

    After eating for an hour it was time to head to the spa, I got a 4 treatment session 2.5 hours for approx $100.
    . Firstly a leg wrap where the boots compress tightly then reduce
    . Next the stones run up and down your spine oh so good, quite hard but amazing
    . Next to the massage chair where your arms, legs and back are all being massaged at the same time and with different intensity.
    . Lastly into the jucuzzi for a soak watching the amazing photos taken around the region.
    . I even got a great shower and hair wash before heading back to the hostel.
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  • Day 21

    Veging around town

    December 20, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    The weather has turned bad again today, not much to do except ponder around town. I have a massage in the local spa which is great and generally don't do much at all. I learn the spa has been open 6 years and is gradually being accepted by the locals. They have certainly put a large capital investment into it.

    We do find a little pace to chill for a few hours, as always the pies of wine are huge - certainly don't need more than a glass.

    In the evening we catch up with some of the crew from the boat who are in town. We have a few happy hour drinks and some food, I have to say I am not happy with the food options at all. The nachos are just chips and plastic cheese with a little guacamole. Salad comprise of mainly lettuce and carrot certainly nothing to rave about.

    Mel and I then head to a wine bar Mel spied in the afternoon. Finally a decent wine bar with lots of options. Hopefully we will get back tomorrow. I'm starting to run out of cash so only bars who take visa for me for the next few days.
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