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Renault Roaming

Italy -- Croatia - ?
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  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    The house the gggggrand parents built

    July 21, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The GPS offered to take me down Ulica Vladimira Gortana to no 11 where the Leva house was to be found. As you can see, I took one look and decided to walk.
    The house was only 50m or so from the harbour and covered in German signs: mainly zimmer. The Communist Yugoslav government had retrieved the houses belonging to the Italians - with compensation - after the War but obviously when the country split up the Croatians put them back on the market and the Germans snapped them up for holiday homes, or as in this case, to turn them into holiday boarding houses.Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Cape Leva

    July 21, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    They even buried the old folk with a good view of the sea

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Between 2 islands

    July 22, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    The little town of Osor where the bridge linking the 2 parts of Losinj lies, is really quite charming and usually bypassed.
    The citizens were holding a music festival week whilst I was there and the event that night was a chamber opera in 5 acts recited in the church. I listened to a bit from the town plaza but since it was in Croat I didnt last long.Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Pivka Barracks

    July 26, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    were built by the Italian army but rose to fame on the so-called 'Day Before'. On 26 June 1991 the first tanks of the Yugoslav People's Army left from here to suppress the independence of Slovenia, which following the fall of the Berlin Wall and the success of the democratic opposition parties to hold free elections resulting in an 88.5% vote for sovreignty, had declared Slovenia a Republic.
    The T-55 tank was the principle type used and perhaps to commemorate this with an emphasis more on peace than war, the Tree-55 was built to guard the museum entrance.
    The crushed car is a re-creation of one such symbol of suppression.
    The museum has a fine collection of armoured vehicles from WWII, as well as aircraft, a pocket submarine and a German Class 52 steam locomotive.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Wrongly Racked

    August 1, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Initially I thought this paperwork had been filed in the wrong part of the supermarket but after much careful anal ysis I determined that this was not some sort of rap mag as the header explained "Skandinavske krizanke s humorjem za sladokusce.... ...
    Scandinavian crosswords with spicy jokes!    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Breginj

    August 3, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The mother of my host has a small wooden house - technically a food drying shed to avoid building permissions - in the mountains at the head of the Soca valley. We spent a couple of weekends up there as a holiday away from the building site. This old village was destroyed by an earthquake but one row of houses built in the traditional oval shape has been restored. They built like this to provide shelter from the 'borea' a wind with exceptionally strong guststhat is channelled up the valley from the south-east.
    Small streams have been dammed to provide water for animals and agriculture but they run dry frequently leaving these moss walls behind.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Stohlen moments

    August 3, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Stohl mountain (1668m) rises from Breginj and I popped up to see the view one day. The ascent was by a 45 degree slope from the valley to the summit as you can see. No trick photography.
    The views were stupendous down the Soca valley and across to Mt. Kanin (Canin) which is linked to the ski resort of Sella Nevea in Italy.Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Trad folk

    August 6, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Here at Grad Kromberg concerts are held periodically. Since Manca and Sebastian, my hosts, had performed there quite often, they knew exactly where we could sit in the adjoining vinyard to hear and see the concert without forking out 20 Euros, so they invited me to join them in an evening of folk music.
    I expected traditional Slovenian peasant songs: instead we were treated to a Mongolian band with a selection of throat music from their country. With a beer in hand and lying on the grass comfortably it was an amazing experience. We were all in awe of the range and variety of sounds the lead singer could produce, sometimes simultaneously. And of course, we had a couple of western style, clippety clop cowboy tunes from the steppes, the hoof beats made by instruments but the neighing etc by the singers. Only Clint Eastwood was missing - eat your heart out Morricone.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Straw logs

    August 15, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Back in Slovenia again for another workaway 20 minutes South of Gorizia. Here Manca and Sebastian and little Luca are making a straw bale house with the help of a regular succession of workawayers. In Slovenian even proper names are declined, (grammatically,) and long names declined, (habitually.) So since Sebastian is too long & difficult to translate into Slovenian, he is known here as Tchopko, which makes everyone laugh because it translates as "Tweetie Pie."
    Whilst I have been here we have placed and painted the eaves, installed rafters on the roof to take tiles, started filling the walls with straw, (notice the big mallet in the photo!) and applied a mud render to various parts.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Out to lunch

    August 23, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After leaving the straw house, I popped in to see Cividale. Some say that it was founded by Julius Caesar as "Forum Julii", but archaeologists have found Venetian and Celtic remains from 6 BCE. It became the Lombard capital, taken over by the Franks and renamed "Civitas Austriae" eventually morphing into "Cividale".
    Unfortunately, it was lunchtime when I strolled around so the few potentially interesting sights were closed.
    The bridge is famous though. Apparently the devil helped the townsfolk build the bridge, in exchange for the soul of the first living thing that crossed over it. The locals were canny though, ensuring that a cat or a dog was the first across. Old Nick wasn't too happy about it, but there does not appear to have been any ill consequence.
    Just down the road I found a 3 course lunch for 10 Euros: pasta sald, steak and coffee. Not surprised the town was closed for lunch with deals like that around.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Big C

    August 24, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Too short a visit to Vanessa at Marina di Pietrasanta, where the family were spending August.
    The day before this beach was jam-packed, but it is amazing what a cloud can do.
    Can you spot Vanesssa sitting enjoying her book?
    The water was nice and warm, with that velvety feel characteristic of the Med in these parts generated by salty waves and liberal amounts of Amber Solaire washed off the bathers. Who says oil and water don't mix?    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler
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    I take a pass

    August 26, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Driving to my next workaway in Burgundy I crossed into France by the Little Saint Bernard Pass.
    Owing to the poor roads in Italy I took the Autostrada all the way to Aosta which set me back the price of a tank of fuel. The most irritating thing was to discover that paying cash instead of using Visa / Mastercard incurs a 10% surcharge!
    The hostel / monastery / cafe has been a refuge for travellers for hundreds of years.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Little C

    September 1, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The 1930s Dutch sailing barge"Goede Verwachting", [Great Expectations,Arnhem, 45t, 21m,]now alas without her wardrobe and sailing tackle and relying on a Daf 595 truck engine for mobility,has been the home for my host during the last 20 years. Sue is an English lady of a certain age, originally hailing from Brighton and a devoted bargee.
    I found her in a highly stressed state, nursing a bruised hip and a strained wrist coupled with lack of sleep, Crohn's disease and over protective of her little domain. She clearly made an effort to welcome me into her life, but it was touch and go for a while. The previous workawayer had lasted 4 days and I was determined to do better. Limited water supplies, an aged boiler which had given up the ghost, and no blackwater tank contributed to her tenseness as well as having a few tours to organise for clients. Thus I found myself living in my van for much of the time. Her cat too had picked up the vibe, nervously tensing at every sudden noise,overweight and a fussy eater.
    To compound the situation, VNF the French canal authority decided to close the Canal du Centre in order to conduct a catologue of biota and determine where it was leaking. They lowered the water level until the barges were nearly sitting on the mud and of course there could be no flow of water so a green algae bloomed profusely fed by the nutrient rich waters fertilised by the resident barges. In the 30+ degree heat there was quite a sultry atmosphere to the place.
    During the day I worked alone peacefully on varnishing, painting and a bit of cabinet making. A single plate of food for dinner and I scampered off for a glass of plonk in my van. Gradually, Sue calmed down and there was a noticeable warming when she returned one evening to find that the cat came to me for a rub-down before deigning to acknowledge her mistress!
    And I am happy to say, I lasted the 3 weeks without losing too much weight and with an invitation to stay longer.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Bottom of the world

    September 2, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Spotting a place on the map called "Le Bout du Monde" a dozen km or so from Chagny where the barge was moored, I could not resist visiting it. This is what Alexandre Dumas wrote about it:

    "We descend a small slope and after about 10 minutes we find ourselves in the middle of this Burgundy El Dorado where the encircling rocks high above isolate us from the rest of the world." [Impression de voyage.]

    It is a small limestone valley hollowed out of the Cote d'Or by a small stream, the Cosanne, (Cat 1 Trout fishing,) leaving a slice of geological time exposed. At the bottom of the cliff is a layer about 195 million years old, where clay soil was deposited on the prairie. Rising up the face can be seen layers including the squashed skeletons of molluscs that lived in a warm, shallow sea duric the Jurassic, 185 million years ago.
    Chateau. Every village has one. This one is Chateau La Rochepot and dates from 1180.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Rooting around

    September 5, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Once we went to the truffle farm where we learned about the 4 types cultivated locally befor Jack, the over excited truffle hound, dug up some previously hidden truffles to demonstrate the truffle hunt. If you want to experience it, just bury a bone in your backyard and watch your pooch dig it up.
    We had rather an expensive lunch there, every course with truffles but it did not impress us overmuch. The taste of truffles can easily be tried by diluting fresh forest mushrooms and it wont cost you the price on the blackboard; the cheapest they sell.
    The roots decorating the ceiling are supposed to show where the truffle can be found.
    BTW The Lagotto Romagnolo is a medium-sized, water retriever and truffle hunter with curly hair and a great disposition. It is depicted in books dating back to 1591 and 1630, and there are some references back to the 1400s.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler
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    Beaune of contention

    September 6, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Baune, a classic medievil market town, lies a dozen km away. There was a market in the streets which, as far as I could tell, had the same travelling stalls as Chagny on Sunday. The local artisanal produce was sold at the same price as in the shops, and more for tourists.
    One feature of the area are boldly coloured roof tiles, seen on the old hospital par excellence.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler
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    Rolin stones

    September 6, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Nicolas Rolin made himself very rich as Chancellor of the Exchequer to Duke Philip the Good.
    His manor wasn't in too good a shape after the Hundred Years War and the people of Beaune were starving and destitute; plus the Plague had broken out in the countryside.
    So, prompted by his wife Guigone de Salins, he founded the Hôtel-Dieu or Hospice de Beaune in 1443 together with a religious order of nuns, "Les sœurs hospitalières de Beaune". The hospital continued serving patients until the late 1970s. Since then it has been restored to nearly the original condition.
    One special exhibit in the pharmacy is the bow attached to the pestle. There is only one other known example of this device. Since the pestle weighs 6 kg, and was constantly in use preparing concoctions, one can understand why such a spring-loaded assistance was more than a luxury for the nuns.    Read more

  • Roland RoutierRenault RoamingTraveler

    Totally sick art

    September 6, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The painting of "The last Judgement" by Rogier van der Weyden is the most famous piece held in the Hospice, but I like the stained glass scene of the working hospital more.
    Nicolas Rolin and Guigone de Salins are pictured flanking St Sebastian, (who helped get rid of the plague,) and the hospital patron, St. Anthony who dealt with leprosy as well as the plague.
    The man howling is one of a series of heads decorating the beams in the roof of the main hall. You would howl too if you had to watch 15thC medicine practiced 24/7 below you.    Read more

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