• Roland Routier
  • Roland Routier

Renault Roaming

Italy -- Croatia - ?
All in my little Red Renault Trafic
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  • All that glitters

    February 19, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Paid my money to visit the the Palazzo Reale, home of the Norman Kings, but the Royal Appartments were closed so I could only see the Cappella Palatina which is another UNESCO Heritage edifice.
    The chapel, consecrated on Palm Sunday, 28 April 1140, is famous for its mosaics - probably laid by the same chaps that did the Martorana and the central apse of the Cathedral in Cefalù.
    They are believed to have been made for
    We don't know for certain when the mosaics were made, but the mosaics of the nave and aisles were most likely made during the rule of William I (1154-1166), the second King of Sicily, ( 4th son of Roger II and Elvira of Castile,) also known as Gugghiermu lu Malu. (William the Bad / Wicked)
    The sanctuary, dedicated to Saint Peter, is reminiscent of a domed basilica. It has three apses, as is usual in Byzantine architecture, with six pointed arches resting on recycled classical columns and with many Arabic inventions such as the muqarnas ceiling.
    The apex of the dome consists of the Christos Pantokrator, with rows of angels, prophets, evangelists and saints.
    Better and more photos can be seen online; worth the effort.
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  • In a pickle

    February 19, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Nearly 8000 desiccated corpses have been shelved by category under the Capuchin Monastery.
    Each one is dressed in their Sunday best and pinned to the walls, sitting on benches and shelves or lying in open coffins rigidly maintaining class distinctions. The priests of course have their own corridors / rooms, and so do for professionals, such as doctors. Women are segregated and children have their own space. The 1st class lounge is reserved for virgins all in white.
    It is believed that the particularly dry atmosphere allowed for the natural mummification of the bodies.
    Some say that the priests would lay the dead on shelves and allow them to drip until they were completely depleted of bodily fluids. After a year in the very dry atmosphere of the catacombs, the dried-out corpses would be rinsed with vinegar before being re-dressed and sent to their proper station for ever.
    More probably a recently found description of an embalming process, which was lost for decades, was employed. It consists of “formalin to kill bacteria, alcohol to dry the body, glycerin to keep her from overdrying, salicylic acid to kill fungi, and the most important ingredient, zinc salts to give the body rigidity.”
    The oldest corpse in the macabre collection is that of Silvestro da Gubbio, a friar who passed in 1599. The most recent is that of 2 year old Rosalia Lombardo, embalmed in 1920. She has been so well preserved that people call her “Sleeping Beauty.”
    Photos are officially forbidden but I couldn't resist taking a couple for you.
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  • Bathtime

    February 19, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    This I could enjoy.
    A Roman slipper bath, alas no longer available as far as I can see.

    Finally I have found something really old in Sicily. A Copper Age double cell tomb cut into the rock. About 5000 years old.Read more

  • Admiral's church

    February 19, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Like the bridge, this is another gift to Palermo from the Syrian-Greek adventurer George of Antioch. This guy fronted up to the ambitious Norman King Roger II after being in service to the North African Zirid Sultan, Tamim ibn Muizz. Before you know it he commanded the Sicilian navy, such as it was.
    The word "admiral" comes to us from them, derived from the Arabic title “emir al-bar,” roughly translating to “chief military commander of the sea.”
    He was pretty successful, (for example capturing the Byzantine island of Corfu and establishing a Norman colony on the coast of modern-day Tunisia,) and used this success to build and donate the Matorana to Palermo. As is often the case, he overreached himself trying to capture the whole Byzantine Empire, and died in 1151 or 1152 in the Aegean (1151 or 2).
    Naturally the official name is the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio.
    Although fire destroyed much of the original work, about half has been preserved or restored for us to see how richly decorated it must have been. Traces of the mosque out of which it was made can be seen. In the photo the 2nd story screen would have separated female from male.
    Today the Martorana is home to the Italo-Albanian Catholic Church. Italo-Albanians, called the Arbëreshë, migrated to Sicily and Southern Italy in the late Middle Ages as the Byzantine Empire slowly disintegrated. The Arbëreshë church’s adherence to the Byzantine rite means that masses in the Martorana are held in ancient Greek, the same as when the church was founded 800 years ago.
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  • Brands you can trust

    February 20, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    In the museum:

    The set of IKEA saucepans, with a base designed for electric hobs, are over 3000 years old! In those days they made them in bronze rather than aluminium.

    The stone holes from the same period are actually standard measures for grain. In the bottom of each one there is a plug so your purchase can be bagged in front of you.Read more

  • My oath

    February 20, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The museum is in a nice old villa build around a courtyard.
    One type of fascinating article on display are these lead sheets called "defixiones", from the Latin verb defigere, (stab immobilise nail down.)
    They have been half-inched from the sanctuary of Demeter Malophoros at Selinunte, where they had been deposited 2700 years ago.
    Originally they would have been folded up, had pins stuck through them and then been placed in contact with the infernal cthonic divinities, who were sometimes named as guarantors.
    By now you may have guessed what was written on them.
    Curses.
    Thousands have been found, usually relating to love affairs desired or thwarted, and judiciary disputes. Included was the name of the target, (sometimes only that,) incomprehensible signs suggesting magical associations and details of what is supposed to happen. Some of them clearly have a structure as if copied from a catalogue or handbook on cursing.

    Maybe this explains the expressions on the faces of the 3 citizens?
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  • Shock! Horror! Shame!

    February 20, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The Praetorian Palace is so named because it has always housed the cities administration and is now the Town Hall / Palermo mayor's office, whence Piazza Pretoria and Fontana Pretoria.

    The fountain ws designed by by Francesco Camilliani for a private villa but bought by the Town Council and erected in front of the Town Hall in 1573. The basin is decorated with more than 50 statues of all kinds of animals, monsters, harpies, sirens and tritons. Many of them are depicted without clothes which outraged and shocked the locals so much that they "Fontana della Vergogna". (But they still kept this Fountain of Shame).

    Goethe, visiting Sicily in 1787, was appalled.
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  • Black magic old town

    February 21, 2019 in Italy

    Here's a bit of geology:
    A long, long time ago a handsome shepherd named Daphnis was devoted to sheep and bucolic singing. He was a mediterranean deity embodying the vital spirit of Nature.
    It came to pass that a nymph called Echenais fell maddly in love with him, but he would have none of it. So, this is Sicily remember, in a fit of jealousy and rage, she blinded him.
    Eventually he allowed himself to die and Aphrodite transformed him into the rock of Cefalù, which is where I am today.
    The earliest evidencedates back to prehistoric times and comprises a handful of lines scratched into the walls of a cave. Nobody has the foggiest notion why.
    Later the ancient Greeks colonised the place, calling it imaginatively Kephaloidion - head shaped promentory.
    When the Romans arrived they moved the town up onto the Rock for safty from pirates like the Vandals and then Saracens. The remains of some fortifications, traces of warehouses, and baking ovens date to the Byzantine period can be seen.
    Ther rainwater collection system, military barracks, church of St Anne and Calogero were also part of the town on the rock, allowing it to be self-sufficient for a considearble time. After a long, Saracen seige the town surrendered in 857. There is no evidence of subsequent human habitation.
    The house belonged to Edward Alexander Crowley, who preferred the name Aleister, a pansexual, mystic, occultist, ceremonial magician, deviant, recreational drug experimenter, poet and accomplished mountaineer (he climbed K2 and other heights,) who was also known as Frater Perdurabo and The Great Beast 666. The British press called him “The Wickedest Man in the World.”
    Aleister is famous for introducing sex and drugs as sacramental rituals into a system he called Magick, after experimenting with Argentium Astrum and Ordo Templi Orientis, ( Order of the Eastern Temple.) He believed in finding one’s “True Will”, summed up in the Law of Thelema (the religion he established): “Do what thou wilt shall be the whole of the Law.” Followers were to shirk societal norms and follow hedonistic impulses. The inherent individualism of Thelemic values were later to be absorbed into the sixties counter-culture.
    In 1919 he had a revelation. He and his followers had to create a temple, the Abbey of Thelema; motto: “Collegium ad Spiritum Sanctum” The group settled in Cefalù, where he and his lover Leah Hirsig, rented this house dedicated to ritual practices. Crowley’s own bedroom, labeled by himself as “la chambre des cauchemars” (or “the room of nightmares”) was entirely hand-painted by the occultist with explicitly erotic frescos, hermaphroditic goblins, and vividly colored monsters.
    Later Crowley recalled his time in Cefalù as one of the most prolific and happy of his life, even though he suffered from drug addiction and had to write the scandalous Diary of a Drug Fiend to finance his community.
    Crowley and his people were evicted by Mussolini’s regime in 1923. The dictator had no sympathy for pornographic art or mysticism. Once the Abbey closed, the villagers whitewashed the murals, which they somewhat correctly saw as demonic. This erased much of the history and work of Crowley in Cefalù. Afterwards, the house was considered haunted and remained abandoned until 1955, when Kenneth Anger, an experimental filmmaker and follower of Crowley, located the ruins of the villa and attempted (unsuccessfully) to restore the Chambre des Cauchemars.
    I thought there might be something to photograph as a change to Byzantine mozaics, but nobody in the Tourist office or library would admit to any knowledge about the place or its history, so I could not gain access, although I worked out where it was through a process of elimination.
    He founded the religious philosophy of Thelema which enforced an idealist, libertine rule of “Do what thou wilt.”
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  • Wether to get up - or not

    February 22, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Lest you think that all is sunshine and spring flowers, here is the view from my window this morning. The van was rocking and the spray covering everything. Quite cosy in the van with my book.
    Later I drove up into the hills for a change. It started snowing on the autostrada, but I found a way up to Castelbuono which was open. Not that there was much to see in another medieval town!Read more

  • Mylae (without US Army intervention)

    February 22, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    According to Homer's Odyssey, Ulysses was shipwrecked here and met the lovely Polyphemus.
    The town originated as the ancient Mylae, an outpost of Zancle, occupied before 648 BC, perhaps as early as 716 BC. It has been a fishing port for all time.
    After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, under the Byzantines, the town became one of the first episcopal seats of Sicily. In the 9th century Milazzo was conquered by the Arabs, who built the first nucleus of the castle here. Frederick II of Hohenstaufen further fortified the town and created a personal hunting park. The castle was later mostly rebuilt in the age of Charles V of Spain.
    Milazzo was also the seat of a battle in 1718 between Spain and Austria, and of another fought by Giuseppe Garibaldi against the Kingdom of Two Sicilies during his Expedition of the Thousand.
    Now it is still mainly a port with a huge industrial park between it and the rest of Sicily.
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  • Vulcano

    February 23, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    40 minutes from Milazzo by hydro-plane, lies the island of Vulcano, where Africa smashes into the Eurasian plate, (which Africans are still doing.)
    True to form, the ancient Greek imaginative name was Thérmessa (source of heat). The island appeared in their myths as the private foundry of the Olympian god Hephaestus, the patron of blacksmiths.
    Similarly, the Romans believed that Vulcano was the chimney of the god Vulcan's workshop and therefore named the island after him. The island had grown due to his periodic clearing of cinders and ashes from his forge. The earthquakes that either preceded or accompanied the explosions of ash were considered to be due to Vulcan making weapons for the god Mars and his armies to wage war.
    The most recently active centre is the Gran Cratere at the top of the Fossa cone, the cone having grown in the Lentia Caldera in the middle of the island, and has had at least nine major eruptions in the last 6000 years.
    At the north of the island is Vulcanello (123 m (404 ft)), connected to the rest of it by an isthmus which is flooded in bad weather. It emerged from the sea during an eruption in 183 BCE as a separate islet. Occasional eruptions from its three cones with both pyroclastic flow deposits and lavas occurred from then until 1550, with the last eruption creating a narrow isthmus connecting it to Vulcano.
    I was one of the first visitors to arrive today, and consequently was able to wander around alone. Of course, the mud bath was closed but did not look as inviting as I thought it might be. Since one emerges from a dip smelling strongly of sulpher and not having shower facilities anywhere at my disposal, I passed on without indulging myself. One doesn't want to walk around smelling like hell.
    The island is famed, at least in the guide book, for its black beaches. If they had a radio show here it would be called Deserted Island Disks.
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  • Its a gas

    February 23, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    Vulcano has been quiet since the eruption of the Fossa cone on 3 August 1888 to 1890, which deposited about 5 m (16 ft) of pyroclastic material on the summit.
    This eruption of Vulcano was carefully documented at the time by Giuseppe Mercalli. Mercalli described the eruptions as "...Explosions sounding like a cannon at irregular intervals..." As a result, vulcanian eruptions are based on this description.
    The style of eruption seen on the Fossa cone is called a Vulcanian eruption, being the explosive emission of pyroclastic fragments of viscous magmas caused by the high viscosity preventing gases from escaping easily.
    A typical vulcanian eruption can hurl blocks of solid material several hundreds of metres from the vent.
    I just knew that you would want photos from inside this volcano, so felt obliged to ignore the signs pericolo di morte which alerted me to the dangerous fumes and to venture up the 600m cone and down into its depths. Being alone meant I could descend the crater to the floor: my decision made easier by seeing the initials of other brave souls scribed in stone piles on the ground.
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  • Withering heights

    March 2, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Popped into central Sicily for my last night before next workaway. One of the drawbacks of spending the night up there is the 5 degree drop in temperature making for a chilly night.
    The Siculi, an ancient Sicilian tribe,established this town which became a centre for the pre-Hellenic cult of Demeter and Kore (Persephone.) It sits on a plateau dominating the valley of the Dittaino, northeast of Caltanissetta.
    Originally Henna and then Enna, it was under Greek influence, first from Gela (7th century BCE) and later from Syracuse, after which it fell into the hands of the Syracusan tyrant Dionysius I in about 397 bc. After a brief period of Carthaginian rule, it passed to the Romans in 258 gaining notoriety as the HQ of the great Sicilian slave revolt (134–132).
    From the highest point, nearly 1000m ASL, most of the Sicilian cost can be surveilled; making it an important stronghold in the Middle Ages. Held by the Saracens from 859 until 1087, it was then taken by the Normans. Its medieval name Castrogiovanni, derived from the Arabic Kasr-Yani, is a corruption of the Latin Castrum Hennae. A favourite residence of the emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen and of Frederick II and III of Aragon, it was among the first Sicilian cities to rally to the Italian cause in 1848 and 1860. In 1927 it resumed its ancient name.
    When I tried to park in one of the streets, a man started gesticulating wildly indicating I should follow him. Intrigued, I did; wondering what the sting would be. He led me up to a big free parking spot where I could remain undisturbed. Then he swung open the boot of his little car to reveal bags of nuts and things and insisted I buy a kilos worth of something - for 10 euros. Since it was the same price in supermarkets, and I appreciated his marketing effort, I did so. Nuts anyone?
    + From the summit you can clearly see the Rocca di Cerere; the foundations of the Temple of Demeter on its little promontory.
    + The Castello di Lombardia is an important example of military architecture in Sicily. 6 of its original 20 towers remain, dominating the town at the top of sheer cliffs. It is said that whenever it exchanged hands throughout history it was inevitably through treachery not force.
    + rather splendid plaque for the Carabinieri stuck on one wall. Move over Carmen Miranda .
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  • Minorduomo

    March 2, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Enna also has a Duomo. Destroyed by fire in 1446, the cathedral was rebuilt over the next 200 years and is an interesting mixture of architectural styles. It even contains Classical ruins at the base of the pulpit.
    + The doors in beaten bronze are simple and well executed.
    + The paintings lining the galleries make it look like an old baronial hall.
    + The church is dedicated to St. Smurf, whose portrait you can see in the central bay.
    + The nave has a more Rococco feel
    + The roof is distinctly meo-arabic.
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  • Sicilian workaway

    March 20, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    This is my campsite on the ex-farm, now largely overgrown.
    There is a bell tent on a wooden floor that I can use. Large enough to stand upright and organise my clothes which is a welcome change from the limited height of the van. Unfortunately, it leaks and flaps like a loose sail in the wind, so I sleep in the van.
    Past the tent, in the distance, the town of Santa Maria di Licodia sits on it's hill. During the war the British bombed it and landed Parachute troops to capture the local dam / lake. It was rebuilt as a series of apartment blocks and shopping malls which somehow fails to attract tourists.
    The Philips family is Emanuela, Zoe, Jay and little Astrid. They live in Palermo during the week as Manuela, (as she prefers to be called,) could not find a teaching job nearby; something made harder by being a Steiner teacher.
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  • Bob's place

    March 20, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    As an ex-travelling showman, Bob has had several buses / vans converted to living spaces. On acquiring this property within cooee of Etna, 10 years ago, the vans were converted to accommodation.
    The main block is an old, 10 tonne Saviem that belonged to the french CRS, (riot police.) It serves as the main bedroom, kitchen, dining room and sitting area. Somewhat of a squeeze.
    The bathroom is a Fiat Ducato with a wood-fired stove for hot water: surprisingly effective and you don't have to wait too long for it to heat up.
    The pizza oven is another home built item. One might think from the shape that porcine would be on the menu, built regrettably not.
    The diet here is high carb. Porridge for breakfast, pasta in a tomatoe sauce for lunch, and pizza (cheese and tomato,) for dinner. Of course, there are as many oranges to eat as one needs for the glucose to help breakdown the carbs. Occasionally a green vegetable turns up and one day we even had a lettuce. Luckily, in the food area, I am a gratitudarian so happily eat everything!
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  • Bob's Toys

    March 20, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Bob, (short for Frederic,) is better known as 'Danger Fire Bob' and is a self-educated artist with a talent for do-it-yourself projects. All around the site useful pieces of cars, metal, wood, plastic can be found ready to be turned into something artistic or an amazing contraption for his fire shows. [See for example, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cq3io3m0A3E]
    The Mad Max buggy shoots fire from various places as it drives around, and the helicopters blades rotate in flames. [ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpRk-L7O5hc]
    I rather like the bicycle in the shed [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGKWGupcNbU] though I'm not sure I would try it even if it was in working order.
    One of the problems of creativity in a rural environment is that many things get started but few finished as there is no pressing need to do so. One can do any little job that one feels like doing at the time. Working on the house has been like that, a little bit here a little there, a day to fix the greenhouse and some time the following week to plant seedlings.
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  • Walls

    March 20, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I could write about all the quaint mezo-Arabic stone walls carrying water channels. Stone stairs are built in each wall to allow people and dogs to cross between fields. You would be amazed and impressed.
    But I cannot tell a lie: this rocky land was cleared at the beginning of the last century. The fathers of some of the old locals built them with the help and encouragement of Il Duce. So much so that some local, country will not hear a bad word about Mussolini mentioned.
    Unfortunately there is too much land for one person to manage and pretty much everything is overgrown. Very pretty now, but a serious fire hazard in Summer: the council insists owners whipper strip the dead vegetation. Alas the strimmer doesn't work properly so I cannot help.
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  • Mongibello

    March 24, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    On Sunday I took time off to climb this mountain, better known nowadays as Mount Etna.
    I think it is about 3,326 m high at the moment, although this varies with eruptions making it the highest and most active volcano in Europe and old, about 500,000 years.
    It has exploded violently in the past, but generally just farts regularly like a baby - with copious discharges. Eruptions have been documented since 1500 BC, when people living in the eastern part of the island were compelled to migrate to its western end. Since then there have been more than 200 eruptions, most fairly small.
    Etna's most powerful recorded eruption was in 1669, when explosions destroyed part of the summit and lava flows from a fissure on the volcano's flank reached the sea and the town of Catania, more than ten miles away. The Catanian townspeople came out to dig a channel that diverted lava away from their homes towards Paterno; whose inhabitants grew increasingly cross with the Catanians as the lava oozed slowly closer to them. Eventually, they forced the cityfolk choose between the wrath of Paterno or the wrath of Hephaestus / Vulcan. The Catanians wisely chose to abandon their quest.
    Etna's longest eruption began in 1979 and went on for thirteen years; its latest eruption began in March 2007, and continues as you may have seen in recent news bulletins.
    The walk starts at the pyramid, (a solar clock,) by Rifugio Sapienza, now the centre of the ski resort. Very soon the sparse vegitation gives way to the bleak, lunar landscape for which the mountain is famous. Clouds were blowing across the snow and lava which made it difficult to navigate and rather on the chilly side. Unfortunately, this plateau, the Torre del Filosofo (2920m) was as high as I was allowed to go without paying for a guided tour. Since the summit is rather unpredictable at present, I opted for caution and obeyed the sign.
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  • Climb every mountain

    March 24, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    To compensate for missing the active crater, I took a photo of the newest crater (formed in 2003,) named I believe Monte Barbagallo.
    On my way back, in the evening sun I found another crater, Monti Silvestri.
    There must be hundreds of buildings under the mountain: this one lies half buried by the side of the road up to Nicolosi Nord.
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  • Saracen bridge

    March 25, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We took some time off from concreting to visit this bridge a few kilometres away.
    Apparently of Roman origins, though there is nothing to see, the Ponte Saraceno was rebuilt under Roger II. The four arches have different curves with attractive, two colour, stone banding.
    All roads lead to Etna.
    Here are my guides: Astrid, her aunty Frederica and her dad, Bob.
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  • Saracen gorge

    March 25, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The bridge spans the Simeto river, whose gorges are the product of a lava flow.
    The basalt structures have been polished and shined by the endless flow water through the ages.
    This is the real reason locals come here: for a dip in the river on a Summer day. The water is too cold now, but soon, heated by the black stones, it will be lovely.Read more

  • Saracen biology

    March 25, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The path North from the bridge to the gorges is blanketed with flowers. Apart from the almond tree, I haven't the foggiest notion what they are though!