34. New Mexico, USA II

New Mexico - Land of Enchantment II

From Mentmore to Los Alamos, Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Truth or Consequences, Silver City

As Halloween decorations appeared everywhere, it became clear that New Mexico embraces the season in style! In Los Alamos and Bandelier National Monument, we wandered through history. The Tsankawi Loop led us along cliffside paths to ancient dwellings, with volcanic terrain shaped over millennia. The Jemez Mountains’ caldera and the Valle Grande reveal nature’s handiwork—ancient eruptions and erosion that breathe history into the landscape. Streams like Frijoles Creek slowly carved canyons into the ash, yielding obsidian that the Anasazi shaped into arrowheads.

We visited Pecos Pueblo, a reminder of ancestral homes. Los Alamos also holds a significant place in modern history as the birthplace of the atomic bomb. Here on July 16, 1945, scientists conducted the first nuclear weapons test, changing WWII’s course.

Before heading to Santa Fe, we faced some “bumps” of our own: a spilled spice rack and a broken headlight (it “gave up the ghost,” as the German saying goes). Theo tackled epic bike trails around the Jemez Mountains, and we squeezed in a short but exhilarating sport climb.

Santa Fe, one of the oldest cities in the U.S., charmed us with its adobe buildings, art, and tantalizing food. Its reputation as the “chili capital” holds true, with spice in every dish. We savored traditional Mexican cuisine and doubled up on bike locks; the lively streets had an edgy vibe with many wanderers around. Santa Fe’s architecture—a blend of Spanish influence—gives it an earthy, unique feel, making it like no other.

In Diablo Canyon, we climbed beautiful basalt cliffs, encountering a large tarantula but luckily avoiding rattlesnakes. Just a week ago, snow dusted the area, but now the rocks glowed under clear skies. Later, we rode the “Bobsled” mountain bike trail in Placitas, where the curving downhill path was pure fun. To top off our “fast food tour,” we tried Five Guys, complete with a pack of peanuts. Thanks, Santa Claus!

In Albuquerque, a brewing sandstorm prompted us to prep our Pissaway with a thorough inside-out clean, a Trader Joe’s haul, and a restock of provisions. My basket brimmed with Halloween treats: pumpkin pesto, pumpkin chocolate, dark chocolate almonds, gnocchi, couscous, miso paste, and the best organic macadamia-almond-cashew milk. Trader Joe’s is an occasional splurge—a treasure trove of international foods and spices. Funny enough, Trader Joe’s is actually part of Aldi Nord from Germany, where it’s known as a discount store! I also picked up some colorful T-shirts and new climbing shoes at a consignment store. As the sandstorm swept in, we spent a cozy night in a motel, enjoying hot showers, a real bed, and a breakfast of waffles and pancakes—pure comfort. We also hit a laundromat, cleaned our bedding, and did some yoga, preparing for the coming cold.

We spent three days climbing in Socorro, where Box Canyon offers a variety of routes on rough, sandpaper-like rock that peeled the skin off my hands. Theo tackled a solid 5.10c/d, without realizing its grade—a pleasant surprise and testament to his skills. The area was buzzing with college students competing, adding a fun atmosphere. I spotted a stunning Granite Spiny lizard with golden scales, like Cleopatra’s armor. 🦎

In Truth or Consequences, a town with a quirky name change from “Hot Springs” after a radio show contest, we explored more of New Mexico’s wilderness. The town itself has little more than desert, hot springs, a Walmart, and great climbing spots. We stayed at Luna Park Campground in the Cibola National Forest, tackling climbs at Mud Mountain while dodging tarantulas. With frosty nights, we even took refuge in a hospital cafeteria for hot chocolate and cone cookies. November brought frosty window art and Thanksgiving preps. Theo’s “Movember” haircut was a success!

One unforgettable experience was at the Indian Hot Springs—pure balm for the soul, melting away the aches from daily climbing and preparing us for the cold. We spent sunlit days at various climbing spots, including the Bat Cave with views over the Rio Grande. Reaching it involved quite the adventure: a bumpy car ride, an hour of mountain biking over rocks, and some thorn bush-whacking. But the canyon and its cacti were worth it. Unfortunately Rio Grande is not that grande as we always find it dried out, so no bath option for us. Therefore more hot springs and swimming pools.Baca lagi