Medang Island - Bajo Medang

We had lots of rain overnight at Pulau Kramat, and collected about 60 litres to add to the tanks. We then set sail for our next stop, Medang Island.

The trip took about 4 hours - again rough water, big swells and big winds, ranging from 15 kn to 25kn, with patches up to 35kn. The winds were from the north, (on the beam in sailing talk) which the boat loved. We made great time, and didn’t tack once.

I tried to capture the swell on video, but you just can’t get the true effect. The approach to Medang is tricky as the bay is sheltered by reef, and there are no charts to help.

Dale was at the helm, and I was perched on the bow as spotter. We were getting there cautiously but all seemed good, until suddenly we had only about a mt clearance from the coral. Hard reverse! I noticed a little fishing boat (well the man, not the boat) waving and signalling to us to turn around and go back out. He then puttered over to us, and guided us to a safe mooring.

Adi was really friendly, despite having limited English. We had a great chat, then he handed Dale a bucket of little fish! We accepted just 4 - enough for a meal, but insisted on paying him for them. He really didn’t want to accept the money, IDR 50,000 (= $4.75) argued it was way too much, but given he went out of his way to help us, and was so generous, we wanted to show appreciation.

He asked if we wanted to visit his village. Unfortunately we had no way of making contact with him once we got there, we didn’t see him again.

Once we were anchored, settled and had a break, we decided to head for the harbour. The skies opened, so I grabbed a raincoat and changed my knee length shorts for a lighter, shorter pair that would dry out more quickly. I knew they’d be soaked by the time we got there.

On approach to the harbour it became apparent that this island doesn’t often see foreigners. So many people were hanging out of boats, buildings and onshore, beckoning us to come over!

By the time we cruised past the amazing array of beautiful, colourful boats in the harbour and made it to the (decrepit) pier, we had a crowd of men and kids to help us tie up, climb out of the boat, and guide us around!

Just walking on the pier and through the structure (like a pavilion) it led to was an adventure. Lots of loose boards, huge holes in the concrete pavilion floor and a couple of loose and unstable planks to get from pavilion to the land. But at one time, the pavilion would have been a handsome structure as it was decoratively tiled.

The village was unlike any we’d seen before. Narrow paved streets, with homes right up to the edges, curious people peering out and waving, and goats and chickens everywhere. Our entourage followed us, chattering and giggling, while a man appointed himself guide. The atmosphere was excited, curious and welcoming. Only the actions of a boy about 12 yo, ruined it. He nudged his mates then made a lewd action, and they all laughed.

Our plan was to explore then find somewhere to buy a meal. We didn’t see anywhere that resembled a store or restaurant but figured that our self-appointed guide would come up with something.

Plans went awry when we came upon a bunch of young guys playing soccer on a dirt field a few blocks inland. We stopped to watch, when a young man, Rudi, introduced himself
and invited Dale to play. Rudi hails from Lombok and works on Medang as a school teacher. Dale, at 63yo, was triple the age of his team mates and the opposition! Only a few of the boys had boots on. The rest were barefoot. As he ran into the field, some clown yelled out ‘Rinaldo’ and they all cheered 😆😆😆

The issue Dale had was knowing who was on which team. (Easy for the other players, on a small island where everyone knows everyone else). After passing to the opposition a couple of times, Rudi suggested ‘shirts & skins’ where one team pulled their shirt up over their shoulder on one side, so their torso was partly revealed! Smart uniform!

While they played, I was surrounded by kids, and a few adults. One child could count to 10 in English, but most only knew ‘hello’. I’d say English is not on the curriculum.

Under the trees a small flock of goats were feeding on tree prunings. A couple of very young goat kids were very entertaining, but wary of humans.

Part way through the game, the skies opened as a squall came through. I don’t think the players even noticed! They are so passionate about their football and there were some decent players. My adult entourage disappeared but the kids weren’t so easily deterred. At one point one of the boys grabbed a ball, and asked me to play (bola). I didn’t as I was carrying our bag and my phone and didn’t want to leave them unattended. Nothing to do with making a fool of myself! 😜

As the game finished, Dale had a short chat with Rudi and paid his game fee of IDR5000 (45c). Dale mentioned our plan to find somewhere to eat. Rudi shook his head and said ‘danger, not safe’. We were confused, but headed back to the harbour to leave. Our ‘guide’ joined us again and happily posed for photos, then shook farewell. The crowd at the pier waved until we were a long way away on the dinghy.

We talked about this ‘danger’ and what that danger was. Then later it occurred to me that although my upper half was covered modestly, I was wearing shorts, which is inappropriate and disrespectful in such a traditional culture. We’d been in areas where tourists are common, but these last couple of islands were much more traditional.

The more I thought about it, the more I am convinced that I’d made a major faux pas. Although I hadn’t noticed any women wearing hijabs (unlike on other places) they were all dressed in long sleeves and clothing to their feet, and many had their head scarves on. I should know better! In fact I do know better, I just forgot!

Regardless it was a wonderful visit and we plan to go back today (appropriately dressed) to explore some more.Read more