I Am A Body

At the end of a day I shower and sit on my bunk, slowly assessing my legs and feet. I don't have any blisters and for this I am so so grateful. I have a slight red lump on the front of my shin where my shoe top pushes into my leg. This is hard to fix as it's a pressure sore rather than from friction, however I have learnt that doing my boots up looser doesn't cause blisters and avoids the pressure sores a little. My shins also hurt from having my feet at right angles for 20-30km a day, and I am concerned about shin splints. I walked around the first 7km today in my flat day-shoes and that fixed this problem - perhaps I'll buy walking sandals and throw out my flats. My left knee aches badly on the inner tendon when I walk without a brace, but seems reasonably fine if I wear the beace from the beginning of the day. My kneecaps ache but are getting better - probably because we had less downhill today. The balls of my feet are so sensitive. This is just from walking so much and carrying extra weight. There is nothing I can do for this but elevate my feet every night and hope that they will callous.

On day one I felt a twang in my groin muscle when I stepped badly up the mountain. I was so worried this would become an ongoing issue, but by morning it was perfectly fine. My calves ached after the Pyrenees, but now they only burn a little on the inclines, but recover during the walk. After day one I spent 20 minutes massaging them, but this isn't needed now. Day one strangely my hands were the biggest problem. The cold of the mountain top made them freeze. I couldn't feel my fingers from second knuckle down. I couldn't open my pack and could barely write to sign in to the albergue. When I walk now by the end of the day my fingers are swollen from all the blood pooling there during the day. Apparently walking sticks help this since your arms are pendicular with your body, but cause their own problems such as palm blisters and dry skin. Hands aren't as strong as feet.

In the evening you go to bed thinking if you will manage it tomorrow, and wonder if you should have a sleep in or a rest day. By morning you feel recovered, besides a dull ache in your feet and knees, but fine to walk. We are like salamanders who can regrow their tails - at night our bodies heal more than we realise.

We met a 66 year old South African man today who is riding the French Way in 15 days. He had a knee reconstruction 6 months ago. He is doing this to show his body that he can, and had the most genuinely open and friendly demeanour. I can barely walk the camino, riding in this terrain would be near impossible in my mind. But that's just it, it really is mind over matter.

At dinner with a seasoned pilgrim in Pamplona he told me that the French way can be split roughly into 3 sections. The first five days to a week is about recognising your body. You cross the Pyrenees, you shed weight because your pack is too heavy, and your body is tender and blistered as it adjusts to walking. The second section across the plateaus is for your mind as it is boring with most people choosing to do 30-40km walking per day to get it over with. The flat fields and hot sun make you close into yourself and reflect. The last section is for the spirit, as you get giddy with the thought of being close to Compostela and the Ways converge so you meet with so many pilgrims with different stories of their own journies.

I'm five days into my walk and although my feet ache and my knees still burn, I feel stronger. Hills aren't as tiring anymore. My back isn't as pained carrying my pack. I have more energy at the end of the day. When I walk I notice the pain and am able to often pass over it - if I can't it is time to rest. Today on my walk I wanted to spend more of it in silence. I got to the top of a hill and was inspired to write a stupid limerick or had a line from a book in my head. Beyond the pain there is inspiration. I wish I was walking the full 35 days to experience the whole French Way of the Camino. After the first week, your body is the vessel to get you there, you just have to listen to and take care of her.Read more